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Friday, February 21, 2003
posted by TheBroadroom.Net at 2:12 PM (Pacific)

Smokey Eye how-tos


First off select your pencils carefully. For a first run or till you get the knack go with very neutral pencils like brown, taupe and perhaps a soft grey. Do a medium tone but in future think beyond black to navy, chocolate, caramel, grey, charcoal, gold, green, deep blue, turquoise, even some fun colors

Select a smudger brush and make sure it has a stiff yet softer point. Think of either the Trish brush or the Dorf smudger and even Mercier has one I think. Bobbi might have one as well. If you don't have a brush with a soft blunted point, then use a swab and twist the point a bit to tighten up the cotton fibers. You don't want cotton all over

You want a pencil sharpener handy and use it on the pencil of your choice. You want a neutral based shadow and brush to apply it with and either another liner shadow OR another pencil handy or liquid liner as well.

You will face into the mirror and be at a counter where you can easily rest your elbow on the counter top
take your index or pinkie finger and pull the corner of the eye lightly out and take a SHARPENED point pencil and holding at a downwards diagonal to your lashes you will want to either dot into the upper lash line from above the lashes OR draw a super thin line

For this kind of work you need a really creamy smooth pencil. I use MAC, PX, Dior, CK and a few others. I don't use NARS bec they drag. If there is any hint of drag this will be painful!
If you can make a thin thin line, go into the lashes so you almost can't see the color of the pencil. Brown works really well on this. If you are doing the dot method, do the dots fairly close together like you are just dotting in color into the lashes. Then take your brush or swab and go into the lashes and connect your dots by smudgng. Be careful how you do this. It takes time and a bit of control to do it. Try the outer corner before you try the inner corner

Then if you have done this, do a thin line to your inner corner
THINK THIN here bec you don't want a huge fat line or you can stop at the end of your lashes. Take your pick

To do lower lashes, come in at a downward angle again and go into the lash base again and do the same thing only more carefully. This takes more time bec you have fewer lower lashes. OR you can go under but do a very thin line. also you can rim the inner lid of the lower lid. Just sharpen again and make sure the pencil isn't contaminated

Once you have done this with both eyes (and one eye will be easier than the other), try to set this pencil after smudging into the lashes with a neutral shadow like Morning Dew from Mercier or some base color. This could be used as an all over wash if you like, it's good for that! The shadow will help set the pencil and the wash of color over the brush will soften the darkness of the pencil and smudge it a bit as well, doing double duty.
Then if you want to really darken the line for a SUPER smokey eye, try another go around of another pencil --either lighter or darker OR try a liquid liner over this pencil at the base of lashes OR wet/dry application of a dark smokey shadow. Be careful if you pick a glitter based shadow since the glitter might get into lashes. If you use a shadow, get one of those brushes for application. I prefer to use a dry application as I don't have to wait for it to dry out and it's easier for me to work with and I immediately apply lid color. Recs for these shadows would be anything from the NARS night series, anything with a shimmer like the BB shimmer series. Bronze is pretty, so is charcoal and eggplant ROCKS!

The effect of using a lavender/purple/plum set of colors on the eyes is really interesting and for Lisa and Erin it would be worth trying. Get WNW pencils to do this one so that you don't spend a fortune on pencils!

If you are doing a shadow liner take that same shadow and use it underneath the lower lashes CAREFULLY> if you are using a pencil go under the lashes carefully to deposit color>
I have never used liquid liner under my lower lashes

Also you can use that same shadow for lining as a crease color to enhance the effect and use it on the crease/outer corner making a V to meet your lash line. Make sure at this point that all shadows and creases and liners are fairly dry.

You need to take your smudger brush and lightly smudge into the lashes. The colors will blend and--if you are gutsy enough-- try smudging up the color beyond that lash line. It might seem scary at first, even hookerish. You know your own tolerances and your own eyes better than I do. You might want to do the outer corner only so that it looks like extension of crease color and blend UP! Make sure you blend, blend blend. If it seems too much, remove some with a swab and layer over another wash of base color to soften what you have removed.
Try to make sure your eyes match.
I switch techniques, colors and order all the time but I do a little work on both eyes, look at the effect and know at that point if I need to do more. It's a case of less is more usually.

--Stevie