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Beading Blog - thebroadroom.net: Some notes on photographing jewelry
Some notes on photographing jewelry
posted by Colleen Shirazi,
June 1, 2007
at 5:34 PM (Pacific)
I'm no professional photographer, but taking pictures of jewelry is a skill anyone who makes jewelry needs.
Photographing your jewelry is one of the best ways to see how well you're doing. Every little mistake or flaw becomes apparent when you take a close-up picture of the piece.
It's also a good way to track your progress, especially if you organize your photos chronologically, as in a blog or online photo album.
It's also the best way to keep a record of how you made the piece (surprisingly easy to forget exactly how, even with a relatively simple piece).
Finally, it's a skill you're going to need anyway once you start selling jewelry. Even if you don't sell online, you will likely want to have an online "showcase" for your jewelry.
Here are a few things I've read about, and what has worked for me.
- Natural, indirect lighting is the only lighting that's ever worked for me. If you're going to go pro, you'll probably rig up a light box, but I've found adjusting the camera settings can work quite well.
My "old" Kodak DC4800 actually has aperture settings, so knocking these up a notch or two keeps too much light from getting into the picture. On my other "old" Olympus Camedia, there don't seem to be aperture settings, but you can change the white balance to daylight.
- The quintessential "boring" plain white or black background works best. You can always add a prop or two, but somehow colored backgrounds look nice but distract from the jewelry.
I have had luck using wooden backgrounds, like a wooden table. Dark grey can work. Red is good but I would use it only for key pieces, not for every piece.
- Use the "macro" (tulip) button on your camera and play with using optical zoom.
- I don't have a tripod, so what I do is use my hand. I rest my digicam on my left hand, as if the hand were a tripod. The ideal is to rest the hand itself on something else, but even if you're holding your left hand in air, it's still better than trying to take a close-up by holding the camera in both hands.
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