Notes from the Editors of The Lipstick Page Forums: A Dedication to the Art of Beauty and Fashion.

Meet the Staff: The Sketchbook

· Blog Home
· Profile
· MySpace
· Contact Us
· FAQ/TOS

On This Page
· Closet Confidential: Restart
· Beauty Notes: Fantasy NARS Palette
· Just Notes: This, that and the other 1
· Beauty Notes: Ormonde Jayne Ormonde Woman Review
· It's Quite Easy Being Green
· Just Notes: This, that and the other
· Beauty Notes: Guerlain Après L'Ondée Review
· Most Wanted: On the Road
· Ten Monoliths: A Space Odyssey
· Wedding Bells: The Romantic
· Wedding Bells: The Adventurer
· Wedding Bells: The Purist

Comments
· May 12, 2008 4:22 PM by Blogger Colleen Shirazi
· May 12, 2008 5:40 PM by Blogger Dain
· May 12, 2008 7:57 PM by Blogger Joy Rothke
· May 12, 2008 9:17 PM by Blogger Dain
· May 12, 2008 10:08 PM by Blogger Colleen Shirazi
· May 12, 2008 10:18 PM by Blogger Dain
· May 12, 2008 10:32 PM by Blogger Dain
· May 12, 2008 11:53 PM by Blogger Colleen Shirazi
· May 12, 2008 8:59 PM by Blogger Dain
· May 12, 2008 10:15 PM by Blogger Colleen Shirazi
· May 12, 2008 10:23 PM by Blogger Dain
· May 11, 2008 2:00 AM by Blogger Colleen Shirazi
· May 11, 2008 2:03 AM by Blogger Dain
· May 11, 2008 2:23 AM by Blogger Dain
· May 11, 2008 2:55 AM by Blogger Colleen Shirazi
· May 11, 2008 3:00 AM by Blogger Dain
· May 11, 2008 2:02 PM by Blogger Colleen Shirazi
· May 11, 2008 8:41 PM by Blogger Dain
· May 11, 2008 10:52 PM by Blogger Colleen Shirazi
· May 13, 2008 12:00 AM by Blogger Colleen Shirazi
· May 10, 2008 3:45 AM by Blogger Dain
· May 10, 2008 8:56 PM by Blogger Colleen Shirazi
· May 11, 2008 12:27 PM by Blogger Joy Rothke
· May 11, 2008 2:09 PM by Blogger Colleen Shirazi
· May 11, 2008 8:10 AM by Blogger Perfumeshrine
· May 11, 2008 9:26 AM by Blogger Dain
· May 8, 2008 3:08 AM by Blogger Perfumeshrine
· May 8, 2008 2:44 AM by Blogger Perfumeshrine
· May 8, 2008 3:04 AM by Blogger Dain
· May 8, 2008 10:05 AM by Blogger Carol
· May 8, 2008 10:17 AM by Blogger Dain
· May 8, 2008 1:31 PM by Blogger Colleen Shirazi
· May 8, 2008 8:50 PM by Blogger Dain
· May 6, 2008 12:44 PM by Blogger Carol
· May 6, 2008 11:23 PM by Blogger Dain
· May 5, 2008 10:15 AM by Blogger Carol
· May 5, 2008 10:35 AM by Blogger Dain

Archives
· Beauty Blog (2003-2004)
· Fashion Blog (archive)
· New Releases Blog (archive)
· Beauty Articles (archive)
· April 2005
· May 2005
· June 2005
· July 2005
· August 2005
· September 2005
· October 2005
· November 2005
· December 2005
· January 2006
· February 2006
· March 2006
· April 2006
· May 2006
· June 2006
· July 2006
· August 2006
· September 2006
· October 2006
· November 2006
· December 2006
· January 2007
· February 2007
· March 2007
· April 2007
· May 2007
· June 2007
· July 2007
· August 2007
· September 2007
· October 2007
· November 2007
· December 2007
· January 2008
· February 2008
· March 2008
· April 2008
· May 2008

Blog
Recent blog posts:





Links
Barneys
refinery29
The Sartorialist
Perfume Shrine
Polyvore
The Fashioniste
The Powder Group
LA-Story.com
Dain's Literary Attempts
Colleen's Beading Blog
Colleen's Adult Acne Blog

The Beauty Blog Network



Blog Directory
Add to Technorati Favorites
eponym blog directory BETA
As Seen on Delightfulblogs.com
Health Blogs - Blog Top Sites
Eponym Blog Directory.
TBF Project:Blog
Health Blogs - Blog Catalog Blog Directory
Search For Blogs, Submit Blogs, The Ultimate Blog Directory
Find Blogs in the Blog Directory
 
The Lipstick Page Forums Beauty & Fashion Blog


Closet Confidential: Restart
Posted by Dain, Tuesday, May 13, 2008 12:09 AM (Eastern)

You may have noticed I don't blog much about makeup any more. I've settled. More or less, my stash has reached a point where it doesn't require much editing. So, I have turned my attention to my wardrobes, both clothing and perfume—yes, yes, I am anal, but "it gives [me] a sense of control in a world full of chaos" (Clueless). The Mnemonic Sense chronicles my attempts to make sense of the mad world of perfumery, and this, Closet Confidential, is all about getting my closet in order. As I explain in the Introduction, my mission is "a wardrobe so intensely minimal that it will fit in a single (but generous) piece of luggage, impeccably chosen for seamless mixing and matching, yet is completely expressive. A high order, but why not?" It is based on the premise that one approaches a wardrobe more intelligently for travel—at least I do, because I hate dragging around heavy luggage—but progress has been slow, because unlike perfumes, you can't sample clothing. All the same, I'm hoping that once I'm through, I'm through, as I have become largely insusceptible to trends.

So far, it has been a thought experiment, and I'd gotten as far as tees and knits, but fantasy has now turned to reality: in a few months, I may be headed over to Korea to teach. I really must reckon with myself in earnest, how much clothing can I really live with?

So, if you do not mind, I am going to wipe the slate clean. An entire wardrobe, to fit into that berry American Apparel Weekender Duffle Bag ($32). Alternatively, I'd be the coolest of all backpackers with this convertible bag from Alexandra Cassaniti ($320), but I object to the expense and the size (3264 cubic inches: I'm not minimalist enough for that—a week I could manage, but not a year):

Let the games begin (again). I'm thinking these will be the main categories, which are more or less divided by function, but are subject to edits, as it's a work in progress:
    lingerie & loungewear
    pants & skirts
    tees & knits
    blouses & buttondowns
    sweaters
    layers
    dresses
    coats
    bags
    shoes
    jewelry
    beauty
    other
It'll all be based on my actual clothes, contrasted with fantasy (as here).

Labels: , ,


0 comment(s)  
 
Post a comment (NO SPAM) Permalink . del.icio.us . Stumble



Beauty Notes: Fantasy NARS Palette
Posted by Dain, Monday, May 12, 2008 3:22 PM (Eastern)

I've got a real thing for NARS. It's the closest you can come to an artist's pigments in the cosmetic world. Nothing is more satisfying than to array your duos before your feasting eyes. I have never been particularly enthusiastic about the palettes, however. It is difficult to select five shade for a quint, much less ten. There's always a color that's entirely useless or redundant. It was a stroke of genius on Trish McEvoy's part to offer customizable palettes, and Bobbi Brown has followed suit. Though these are both excellent lines, they don't equal the colorwise brilliance of François Nars—you may not realize how precisely each shade has been calibrated, but there's a reason why there are no fans quite like NARS fans. If NARS offered a customizable palette, which shades would you choose? Four shadows, two blushes, and four lipcolors.

Oddly enough, I didn't favor my favorites; I'd rather try something new, something I've always meant to try.

It was difficult to choose eyeshadows—there are so many I love!—but I think these four could service me quite handsomely. One needed to be a light wash to open up the eye, and one had to be a dark, rich color that would function as a liner: I chose Tokyo (II), a silvery lilac nacre, and Underworld (II), a steely teal blue. They're tied together by a grey undertone, but they'd be versatile because they've got some complexity. Tokyo has a pleasing opalescence that's half grey and half purple (so you could use it as either, as it suits you), while Underworld has a tinge of green that won't alienate it from warmer shades (and I reason it is easier to use than either Cleo or Night Flight). The other two provide contrast: Cyprus' earthy subdued champagne gold and Rated R (II), a pink-flecked, gold-flecked hazy chartreuse. Gold is a subtle countpoint to the cool tones of either Tokyo or Underworld, and Cyprus is such a soft. And Rated R is indeed a favorite: people don't realize how wearable lime is, I think. One light, one dark, one soft contrast, one bright: you'll notice each shade works with the others in every imaginable combination. I did consider a lilac, but I still like my Chanel Lavande best.

The blushes were easy. In spite of the very great furor that surrounds the sparkly NARS blushes, notably Orgasm and Sin, my very favorite is Desire, a bright pink just a hair cool. It pretty much goes with everything else I use. But since I had to choose a second, the Malibu Multiple would do very well: a dusty mauve that appears as a healthy, sunkissed glow rather than blushy blush. Since I do have a couple of bright-ass lipsticks, it wouldn't hurt to have a subtle blush, and I'd probably never buy it on its own.

The lips were also difficult, but not because I had too many choices, but rather too few. I live on NARS Gothika, which, as a lip gloss, wouldn't be a choice for the palette, and alternate with Shu Uemura 270 for drama. I am also not as familiar with the lipsticks. So my choices are somewhat conservative: Eros is a sunny peach-rose-bronze that makes a great easy, glossy lip and Flair is a supremely wearable redcurrant shimmer, two shades I do own. Scarlet Empress and Schiap, on the other hand, are colors I've always wanted but never bought, a deep blue red and a heart-stopping fuschia. The lipcolors, I might add, work excellently with the shadows.

Labels:


8 comment(s)  
 
May 12, 2008 4:22 PM, Blogger Colleen Shirazi said...

That is a cool concept.

But I would rather have six or seven shadows, one blush and two lipsticks. I'm with you on the two-lippy dichotomy...I have not cared to have more than one YLBB shade, and one "more" shade. For me, the "more" shade hardly gets worn (though it remains to be seen whether I'll switch to the "more" shade when the YLBB one runs out, which it will soon).

Malibu does have an amount of brown in it. It might work best if you have a bit of tan. Well, I'm terrible. If I want a "more" shade here, I just put more Malibu on.

The shadows, weirdly, I can't strip down to four. It should be six or seven.

 
May 12, 2008 5:40 PM, Blogger Dain said...

Mmm, yes, I would rather do it that way myself, but for the moment, that is how NARS does their palettes, so it would make more sense to stick to their plan. Of course, if they were really doing customizable palettes, they'd probably only offer powders, which is easier for them. Or the Fame palette--that might do nicely. : D

 
May 12, 2008 7:57 PM, Blogger Joy Rothke said...

I convinced myself, after reading scads of reviews, that I had to have All About Eve, even though I rarely use eye shadow. Now, I rarely use All About Eve.

Also own Amour and Mata Hari blushes. Both are so intensely pigmented that I use a tiny bit. They'll last forever.

 
May 12, 2008 9:17 PM, Blogger Dain said...

AAE is tricky. It only works on the relatively pale, because it sort of mimicks the effect of light on the skin, but that depends a great deal on what your skin tone is in the first place. You might have better luck with Cairo, Cyprus, or Nepal.

 
May 12, 2008 10:08 PM, Blogger Colleen Shirazi said...

Ah...then I probably can't do AAE either.

I use Island Fever or Ireland almost every day, and sometimes Jezebel. Babylon, not as much. It's still nice-looking, but it's a tiny bit too much, where I'd thought AAE would fill the bill.

I can admit I love the idea of getting a single instead of a duo. :D But I do end up using both shades in my duos.

 
May 12, 2008 10:18 PM, Blogger Dain said...

Maybe Cairo and Ondine? I see those working on green eyes very well indeed.

I've had similar experiences with Rebecca. Very pretty, but it won't show up on me! It works fine on warm, medium-toned people, so I think it matters a lot what your coloring is like in the first place.

 
May 12, 2008 10:32 PM, Blogger Dain said...

Now that I think on it... It may be also because I can't really wear warm shades that AEE works for me. It's pretty silvery. And in any case, if you don't wear eyeshadow, you're not gonna wear it regardless.

 
May 12, 2008 11:53 PM, Blogger Colleen Shirazi said...

Sometimes you need to meet the right shadows. :) I didn't wear eyeshadow every day until fairly recently...until I got the Nars duos, and until I figured they were the best shadows for me.

The orange in Babylon is still quite pretty on me...I dunno, I just have it in mind to get something subtler, some time. Something like a "your eyes but better" shade. It's a matter of going to Sephora and doing some swatching.

 
Post a comment (NO SPAM) Permalink . del.icio.us . Stumble



Just Notes: This, that and the other 1
Posted by Colleen Shirazi, 12:00 AM (Eastern)

So...I had an interesting weekend, and I hope you did too.

I got this killer dress from a consignment shop. Quintessential late 80's/early 90's, new with tags, and fitted out with linebacker shoulder pads and little elastic "belt" in the back. A cool Indian design; this type of clothing had always been made in India before the apparel market began to drown in Chinese-made goods. The dress was fashioned entirely of a creamy ivory lace, with a built-in sheer dress underneath it.

Went home, snipped out the shoulder pads...the built-in sheer dress was attached to the lace overlay by the same stitching, so of course it came out. I'm sewing-challenged but have never minded mending, so I sewed it back together, and discovered a hole in the lace overlay (don't ask me how a new dress already had a hole in it). At first I wanted to do a fancy darning thing with ivory thread but ended up simply sewing the hole shut, as it showed less that way. With the genius of the dress design, the hole barely showed even when it was open (the bottom of the dress is an intricate design of pieces of lace sewn together to create a small froth).

While I was doing that, I found a hole in the built-in sheer dress, near the bottom in the side seam. It looked as if someone had cut a tag out using pinking shears. Jeesh! What's wrong with people. I sewed that one shut as well, and though the dress was clearly marked "dry clean only," I washed it in the machine (cold water, delicate cycle, Woolite). I can hardly wait to wear it, though I am pondering whether it's too ornate to wear to work.

Shoes...I trekked out to one of the shops around here that carries Cydwoqs, Rabat in Berkeley.

Hm. This was the first time I'd been to Rabat, and I'll have to admit I was disappointed. Instead of a wide selection of Cydwoqs, they had something like three kinds of the shoes, and maybe three or four kinds of the sandals. I wasn't interested in sandals; of the minute choice of shoes, they had Sprint, Force, and another which I don't recognize on the Cydwoq site.

Force was kind of neat. The model they had on the floor was the exact color I wanted...a brown so dark it looked black at first, so could be worn as a black shoe, or as a brown one.

But...if you expect someone to pay upward of $300 for shoes, you really should have more of a selection on hand. However you look at it, it's a lot of money. So I didn't buy.

The only other standout there was Salpy, another American-made shoe even spendier than the Cydwoqs, but with two amazing leathers...dark shoes with designs traced in gold.

I'll probably get out to Nordstrom next weekend, since I need the shoes now. I'm fairly sure Cydwoqs go on sale seasonally (I've seen their boots on sale online now), so it might be a matter of waiting for a better price.

Labels: , , ,


3 comment(s)  
 
May 12, 2008 8:59 PM, Blogger Dain said...

Maybe if you wore a boyish, oversize blazer like this one you'd bring it down a notch. I know this is a rather expensive example, but I imagine you can find one for cheap easily, maybe even in the boys' department of some store.

 
May 12, 2008 10:15 PM, Blogger Colleen Shirazi said...

I may have to wear it for work! There's talk we're going to have a small heat wave. The nice factors are the lace and the white color. A good part of dealing with hot weather is psychological, after all, like wearing green, blue or white.

I'll have to look at it more closely to see if it's long enough to get away with wearing knee-high stockings, another hot-weather trick.

 
May 12, 2008 10:23 PM, Blogger Dain said...

I'm all for it. If it looks good, it looks good. : )

 
Post a comment (NO SPAM) Permalink . del.icio.us . Stumble



Beauty Notes: Ormonde Jayne Ormonde Woman Review
Posted by Dain, Sunday, May 11, 2008 12:12 AM (Eastern)

The Unicorn in Captivity (1495-1505).

I sometimes find the inclination for exoticism in contemporary niche perfumery, like oud or fig or burnt rubber, slightly contemptible. I find it is a strategy not unlike when movies use sex and violence in place of plot. So like any jaded sample whore, I approached hyped-up Ormonde Woman with not a little suspicion—come on, hemlock?

I am delighted to tell you, Ormonde Woman is wonderful. I am generally averse to violet's sugary preciousness, even in the masterful Bois de Violette, but the way its daintiness offsets something as sinister as black hemlock, the poison the condemned Socrates drank, ah, it broods and bewitches all at once. I've never smelled anything like it—a Scandanavian spring, wild violets under the damp shade of an evergreen forest—the rare bittersweet. Around the core interaction of magical violet and mysterious hemlock, soft accents embroider the surrounds and fill in the blank spaces: a subtle spice-herb accord of cardamom, coriander, and grass, and a softly earthy-resinous drydown of vetiver, sandalwood, amber, and cedar. Sounds like a lot, but it isn't. Ormonde Woman reads like a fairytale, as they really were, the kind where the babes in the wood die and the prince rapes sleeping beauty and Hans the Hedgehog is shoved behind a stove for years because his parents are ashamed of him.

If it weren't so expensive to obtain from London (international shipping and a 1.989 exchange rate), and I hadn't found a similarly narcotic capacity in my bottle Vol de Nuit parfum, I'd be all over a bottle.

Labels: , ,


8 comment(s)  
 
May 11, 2008 2:00 AM, Blogger Colleen Shirazi said...

Oud is not exotic though. The cost of it is prohibitive, but it's an old ingredient in perfumery.

The availability factor would bother me more than the price. They don't sell it here?

 
May 11, 2008 2:03 AM, Blogger Dain said...

Well, exotic doesn't have to be new. And my point is really that I find it to be a marketing gimmick. If you like it, that's very fine, but I find I soon get bored of perfumes that lack structural complexity.

 
May 11, 2008 2:23 AM, Blogger Dain said...

By which I mean, I'm not knocking it of itself, but when it's used to mask lazy compositions.

 
May 11, 2008 2:55 AM, Blogger Colleen Shirazi said...

It's definitely a marketing gimmick...but getting mainstream perfume buyers to branch out into niche perfumery in the first place, has to involve marketing gimmicks. A couple of years ago, it wouldn't have crossed my mind not to buy from Givenchy or Chanel or what have you...the mainstream houses. The sole reason I even started sampling niche fragrances is the buzz from the boards.

I figure, five years from now, or less, the whole niche perfumery thing will have played out anyway. Some houses will survive, a lot will fold, once the novelty wears off.

I'm going back over my samples now, one by one. It's a very different experience. When you first try a sample, you're wondering whether it's "full bottle worthy." If you decide it's not, it goes back to the sample pile; if you like it, it goes to the "under consideration" pile, etc.

But now, I'm not looking to buy anything. So I don't care if it's FBW or not. I just use it.

So far, with this method, I've experienced the same perfumes differently. I found Sublime didn't work. It's too young for me. Montale Powder Flowers didn't work. It just smelled...eh...I didn't get the same Chanel No. 5 experience I did before. AG Rose Absolue smells like really good rosewater, at best. SG Fleurs d'Oranger...like wonderful cleaning products.

The Tauer perfume is brilliant. Joy works, oddly.

I do more layering now...just throw together this and that, and see what happens.

 
May 11, 2008 3:00 AM, Blogger Dain said...

You're definitely right about that. I have definitely reached a point where I have my perfume wardrobe, more or less, and I test for testing's sake, and I do look at it differently.

Sublime is nice, but just a little too sweet for me. I'm trying to get away from that.

IMO, No. 5 and Joy could be sisters.

 
May 11, 2008 2:02 PM, Blogger Colleen Shirazi said...

You're right about the hokey-ness....it's annoying after a while. And many of the scents are not well-made. It's very "grab the money and run." In a few years, the serious houses, old or new, will still be there.

Sublime would have worked on me, ten years ago. It has this retro feel...seeing as "retro" has become generic for "old." :D This retro quality would work on someone ten to fifteen years younger than I am now, it would be charming. On me, it feels as if I never changed my perfume in ten years.

 
May 11, 2008 8:41 PM, Blogger Dain said...

I feel that way about Organza Indecence. I'll keep my bottle, for nostalgia's sake, but I don't think it's likely I'll use it up. It was definitely from a time and a place.

I'm using the word "definitely" overmuch today.

I think Serge Lutens is the only niche that made it into my wardrobe in the form of Tubereuse Criminelle, though I may some day make room for Malle's Le Parfum de Therese. It'll seem dated in time too, I think. The SL syrup, it's like Guerlinade.

 
May 11, 2008 10:52 PM, Blogger Colleen Shirazi said...

I have a sort of imaginary wardrobe...I don't want to buy everything I want, all at once. I feel at least some of the stash would end up going bad.

So I have the two Montales, Etro Heliotrope (down to the last 1/4 to 1/3 of the bottle, and keeping well), a few go-rounds of GF Ferre Lei...which is kind of nifty, a rose/LOTV blend similar to Crystal Flowers...and a purse size of AG Passion. The Lei is all but gone, which will leave me with four perfumes.

I suppose the next time I buy perfume, it will be Joy.

 
Post a comment (NO SPAM) Permalink . del.icio.us . Stumble



It's Quite Easy Being Green
Posted by Joy Rothke, Saturday, May 10, 2008 11:26 PM (Eastern)



I just got back from a walk wearing my FitFlops. On my hair is Ayurvedic oil; on my legs an essential oil-infused body oil from Bali. Up one arm and down the other is a series of perfumes, "love potions" [some infused with pheromones], and scented oils from Santa Barbara, Hollywood, Cincinnati, San Francisco, and several cities in Canada. There's LUSH, Dr. Hauschka and Grateful Body on my face. I'll be exfoliating soon with some stuff from Australia, and after my shower will walk around the house in my Yoga Toes. I'm alternating between five different lip balms and awaiting the arrival of a system that may rejuvenate my lips and get rid of my upper lip lines. And I'm considering using henna on my hair for the first time since 1983.

I'm not vain, but admit I'm powerless over new and interesting and green personal care products. I like to try new things, and I'm lucky to have skin that responds well to all manner of things. I used to stick to a couple of fragrances, but now I’m willing to try scents I used to eschew, like musks, patchouli, amber, green tea, black tea, smoky tea, attars and ouds.

My only criteria are that a product falls under my broad rubric of green/natural/cruelty-free/organic. Anything tested on animals is an absolute no-go, and I'm uninterested in anything with 'cones, parabens, and glycols. Most of the things I'm using come from smaller, independent companies, who don't try to please all of the consumers all of the time, or produce products that will sit for months on the shelves of CVS, Rite-Aid or Shopper's Drug Mart. Once the company sells itself to a giant conglomerate, they invariably change, and not for the better. (I'm talking to you Burt's Bees, Tom's of Maine, and The Body Shop!)

I'm not a crank or a health nut (I still eat frozen burritos, drink coffee with sugar, and take prescription and OTC meds.) I'm just a particular consumer. Anyway, it's not rocket science, just makeup and skincare and perfume. It should be fun, it should work, and make you smell good.

I've got dozens of reviews coming up this spring and summer, and I'd love to hear what you're interested in, and suggestions of things for me to eat, drink, wear, smell and apply.


Labels: , ,


1 comment(s)  
 
May 13, 2008 12:00 AM, Blogger Colleen Shirazi said...

I'm greenish, I suppose. :) I prefer more natural products, because they tend to work better. At one point I noticed, the mainstream products I'd always used had become harsher. I really think there was a change in ingredients at one point.

I use some Dr. Hauschka products, health food store shampoos and conditioners...usually have a few in the shower and switch them around to avoid build-up.

 
Post a comment (NO SPAM) Permalink . del.icio.us . Stumble



Just Notes: This, that and the other
Posted by Colleen Shirazi, 1:17 AM (Eastern)

cydwoq horn shoe
Cydwoq's Horn shoe

I've decided against Jean Patou's Sublime. I tested it out again...it's odd. I've found, with perfumes, that you can seldom turn back the clock. A scent with which you were once so in love, can be like an old boyfriend where it was right at the time, but things have changed.

On the other hand, I still want Joy. And that's not a perfume I really liked that much, before, particularly. In my youth, it was the scent of a grown woman's pocketbook (they don't call them "pocketbooks" on the West Coast btw), the kind of woman whose hair was always done.

I'm still in search of shoes. Willing to give "cheap" shoes another shot, even though cheap is no longer, well, cheap. I mean shoes less than the $300 of my beloved Cydwoqs. Bleh. I know they're worth it, in the sense of not having to shop for shoes in the next ten years, in the sense they are, beyond doubt, well-made and comfortable. And, you could step on them, or your kids could step on them, and it would be fine. They could be rained on. (I don't wear suede shoes.) And they would be...marvellous.

Since I've never been a shoe gal, I never looked at other women's shoes until now, and realized how few shoes stand out. I never craved a lot of shoes, don't need variety (where I so do with jewelry), but it would be nice to somehow own these American-made, unusual shoes with--according to the blogs--excellent arch support. Cydwoq will custom-make shoes if you so desire (apparently they have something along the lines of 250 leathers to choose from). So color wouldn't be a problem.

Oh, I know, I'll end up at Nordstrom or some other dreary department store, and find a pump made in Spain or Italy, and end up buying that. My shoes are starting to fall apart now, after so many years of good service, so putting off shoe-shopping indefinitely is out of the picture. I know I should be glad I can afford a decent, if not shoe-gasmic, shoe, so I don't wish to end this post on a "Paris Hilton can't buy the Titanic" snivelling note. lol I'll let you guys know if I find anything.

Labels: , , , ,


4 comment(s)  
 
May 10, 2008 3:45 AM, Blogger Dain said...

I'm a spender, not a saver, as you well know, but--I'm all for deliberation before buying, especially for anything $100 and above. Is there any way to try them on before you make a decision?

 
May 10, 2008 8:56 PM, Blogger Colleen Shirazi said...

That's just the problem. There are several stores around here that retail them. It's a case of, "I'm afraid to try them because I might like them."

I have yet to try the Nordies route, which would likely be half the price if not less. Cydwoqs do go on sale online, and I've seen some on Ebay, but the sale ones tend to be either odd sizes or styles I don't like.

 
May 11, 2008 12:27 PM, Blogger Joy Rothke said...

They're interesting...but the soles don't look very sturdy.

 
May 11, 2008 2:09 PM, Blogger Colleen Shirazi said...

I'd have to see them in person, no doubt. I'm hoping to do that today, since I have to get shoes one way or the other (my beloved Cole Haan's have "vintaged" to the point of developing a hole in one side). I'm going to try Nordies first, but there is a shop in that mall that carries Cydwoqs.

 
Post a comment (NO SPAM) Permalink . del.icio.us . Stumble



Beauty Notes: Guerlain Après L'Ondée Review
Posted by Dain, 12:48 AM (Eastern)

Joan Fontaine embodies the fragile, retiring charm of the violet.

Modern perfumes have become the subject of intellectual rigor, and it is sometimes very grand indeed. Frédéric Malle is a very intelligently designed line, and with an astute nose you can access the mechanics whirring behind L'Artisan Parfumeur and Serge Lutens. And these are the good ones, not the scratch 'n' sniff Sephora junk-food. By contrast, these old Guerlains are meant to be savored, over time. That's a key word, savored. Thoughtfulness is always welcome to the appreciation of an old Guerlain; nevertheless, the experience is largely emotional. For better or worse, these were perfumes that were meant to be worn, perhaps over a lifetime, which makes all the difference in the world. Nowadays perfumes are intended to be bought, and the main difference is a better kind of consumer.

My initial reaction to Après L'Ondée was less than positive: "eau de Necco wafer", plus a string of expletives. I wasn't expecting something so vague, like the last reverberation of an echo or a faded photograph, watered down L'Heure Bleue. Now, I simply adore it, even though it hardly lasts; it's elegant, fresh perfection in warm weather, especially since I don't particularly enjoy the usual "fresh" signifiers like citrus and aldehydes. Après L'Ondée, especially in light of its antiquity (1906), is a conceptual perfume—as the name says, after the rainshower. Yes, there is a mass of white violets, cold and salty carnation (like tears), a delicate filigree of rose and iris, a pinch of anisic bite, the dawn-like warmth of heliotrope that provides a structural core—but more than anything, Après L'Ondée is air, chilled and humid. People call it atmospheric, meaning that it feels wistful and innocent, but I'm rather inclined to use it in the literal, not metaphoric sense, it actually smells like the atmosphere, the refreshing drop in temperature brought on by a thunderstorm after an oppressively hot night. With Après L'Ondée, it really isn't what you smell, but how you smell it—it represents a mood shift.

It is very difficult to find, except on ebay, but I hear Bergdorf Goodman carries it.

Labels: , ,


2 comment(s)  
 
May 11, 2008 8:10 AM, Blogger Perfumeshrine said...

I tend to agree with you ~it has indeed the vibe of a mood swift and the change of humidity in the air: very good description!

I think you might be glad to know that it can be had through Escentual.co.uk as well ;-)

 
May 11, 2008 9:26 AM, Blogger Dain said...

That's good to know! I got mine off ebay, which is always very touch and go.

I was very averse to Apres L'Ondee until I realized that on some sticky, humid summer's day, it'd be the most brilliant refresher. And then I understood what it was about. : )

 
Post a comment (NO SPAM) Permalink . del.icio.us . Stumble



Most Wanted: On the Road
Posted by Dain, Friday, May 09, 2008 12:30 AM (Eastern)

Let us make Most Wanted a Friday tradition, a more thematically organized version of the Fantasy Web Find. The theme today is the itinerant bohemian. What's summer if not for travel?

I'm definitely more a scribbler than an iPod-er, so I always need a notebook handy, so why not keep those thoughts both stylish and safe in the aptly named Hermès Globetrotter ($590)? Though I always err towards simplification when I travel, a very small dose of luxury provides comfort in strange places.

Instead of the fuss and ostentation of an it-bag, why not this Alexandra Cassaniti Bag ($320) to house your worldly goods? With delightfully childish splotches of paint and thoughtful leather accents, it can be worn in three different ways, top-handle, drawstring shoulder bag, and backpack. It's a little small, but when it comes to luggage: the lighter your bag, the lighter your mind.

You never know what kind of water you will encounter, so take a good conditioner with you. This dry-haired girl has experimented with many, but Bumble & Bumble Super Rich ($22) is the best I've tried, bar none.


When it comes to packing clothes, once you have three essential pieces down, the rest is just a matter of mixing and matching, preferably that which folds away and layers well. These essentials are: (1) functional, well tailored bottoms (one to wear, one to pack), (2) a very nice coat, and (3) comfortable, walkable flats that do not require socks. Personally, I always make sure to add (4) a pretty, easy-to-wear dress, automatically a whole outfit, a neat solution for when you need to look more polished. Everything else depends on your trip—the duration and the weather. All from A.P.C. and Tsumari Chisato: 70s Jean in Green ($205), Trench Coat in Chestnut ($410), Cutout Ballet Flats in White ($405), and Pearl Ocean Tank Dress ($565).

There's one thing I consider absolutely essential for travel, a soft shawl/scarf that provides an extra layer of warmth and even doubles as a pillow. To me, the most alienating aspect of travel is that you are without the smell of your own bed, and you'll find yourself reaching for a scarf not merely for practical reasons but also the olfactory comfort it provides. Not to mention, everyone's life is the better for a little extra color ($65).


WATCH Jennifer Coolidge being hilarious in Christopher Guest's ad-libbed Best in Show about the crazy people who raise show dogs. They're all the epitome of regional stereotypes, but at the same time they're also so obviously all American.
LISTEN
It's never the wrong time to be obsessed with Abbey Road. Each song is a gem, but I find this video particularly poignant.
READ
Just one book for the road? Ovid's Metamorphoses, preferably the Mandelbaum translation, for its fidelity to the Latin and a poet's inner ear for lyricism.

Labels: , , , , ,


0 comment(s)  
 
Post a comment (NO SPAM) Permalink . del.icio.us . Stumble



Ten Monoliths: A Space Odyssey
Posted by Dain, Thursday, May 08, 2008 12:06 AM (Eastern)

I wonder, at times, how I ever got into this fine mess, the world of perfume appreciation—then I must laugh at myself—with eyes and wallet wide open, and that's the truth.

To revisit my thoughts of January 22, 2008: "More than anything, I am amazed by how much of perfume appreciation is purely imaginative. This is not the same thing as our sense of smell. We smell a rose in Yves Saint Laurent Paris, we smell musk in Narciso Rodriguez, and even within the gradations of compositional complexity, it is fairly straightforward. But past the physical impressions, are dreams—mixtures compounded of memory and desire. People flock to Chanel No. 5 because Marilyn Monroe wore it, because their mother wore it, because it's a bottle of Chanel, because it makes them feel elegant and sophisticated. None of these things, I must point out, are actually real. They are associations, memories, impressions, and aspirations (respectively). That perfumes are capable of moving us to such profound ecstasies and aversions is a testament to our imaginative powers, perfumer and perfumed."

In deference to the overwhelming importance of personal opinion, I had always vowed never to make a perfume list. However, some perfumes really are objectively great. This is a collaborative project with Helg at Perfume Shrine: ten to bury in a time capsule, for aliens to discover for a retroactive study of the olfactory capacities of humanity. You must go and read her historically oriented (and much more expert) take.

After a dozen drafts, I finally decided on these ten:
An excruciating process, first to choose from many worthy contenders, then to balance them exactly so that there were no redundancies. These were my criteria:
  1. Each perfume must be technically excellent but not inaccessible: a middle ground. These are iconic and therefore representative, but I tried to favor wearability over artistry, because I am particularly interested in the question of "why we wear perfume" rather than "how we make perfume". Helg's emphasis on historicity represents the other point of view, the perfumer rather than the perfumed.
  2. Collectively, it is important that each has its own distinct character, like a well edited harem. If they are representative, what should they represent? Again, I considered why we we wear perfume—not of necessity, for it is not a life or death matter, but for the joy of it, how it adds a metaphorical dimension to our existence. Metaphors are evocative, but in distinct, characteristic ways—why do hesperides telegraph fresh and clean while animalics suggest dirt and darkness?
The issue of olfactory differentiation became a matter of great importance, in order to address the project fully. There are olfactory families, of course, organized according to the best French logic, which is to say not particularly logical. For example, chypres are grouped together, because for a perfumer they represent a structural counterpoint between bergamot and oakmoss. My list features at least four, maybe five (betraying my own inclination for chypres), but they smell rather different from each other: No. 19 (green), Cristalle (citrus), Mitsouko (fruity), Vol de Nuit (leather), and perhaps Narciso Rodriguez (new age "pink").

To my estimation, there are five major categories of perfumes that a completely untrained individual will recognize: florals, gourmands, orientals, dense, and fresh, with gradations to account for variety and complexity.

FLORALS
I chose Jean Patou JOY as a midpoint floral—if rose had a voice, it'd be a high-strung soprano, while jasmine sings in seductive alto, one neutralizing the other—and just the right dose of aldehydes for uncontested grandeur. If you clarify the composition of aldehydes, you'll get a soliflore, closer to the material in nature, while an obfuscation of spices turns it into a floriental, nearer the center, where all elements are in play (this is how the chart works). The chart also works round its circumference. Counterclockwise: take the cool and salty rose, add plenty of rooty iris and silvery lily of the valley, amplify the aldehydes, freeze it with galbanum, and you've got a crisp, austere floral like Chanel No. 19. Clockwise: honey-sweet melon and candied violet bring warmth to softly indolic jasmine, a night-blooming tropical, in Frédéric Malle Le Parfum de Thérèse, the most sumptuous, refined fruity-floral.

GOURMANDS
Gourmands may be a blip on the wave of trends, but they seem fairly well established to me. They'll certainly be remembered as part of the age of the statement accessory, like the Art Deco creations of the 30s, the aldehydic florals of the 50s, and the obnoxiously loud florientals of the 80s. On the floral end of the spectrum, there are the fruity florals, violet soliflores, and tropicals. The true gourmand scent is dessert fare—fruits, sugar, caramel, chocolate, honey, and vanilla—before it wanders into spicier territory with amber. And no one does the gourmand better than Serge Lutens, such as the boozy Chergui, dark honey under the gravitational pull of smoky tobacco, hay, and the mixed spices of Morocco.

ORIENTALS
Here there be dragons: woods and spices, the resins that compose incense, animalics, and leather. A diverse and exciting group that usually signifies danger and intrigue, on the premise that that which repels also fascinates, as may be guessed by the names: Serge Lutens Muscs Koublaï Khan (sweaty cumin and the dirtiest musks), Robert Piguet Bandit (smoky green galbanum and leather), Caron Coup de Fouet (fiery carnations and pepper), and über-oriental Opium (everything). Wearable is usually not in their vocabulary, but Andy Tauer L'Air du Désert Marocain attains an unusual aridity with curls of aromatic cedar, coriander seeds slithering through your fingers, a whisper of rose, all under a sandy foam of lemon. And as an essay in dark, brooding frowns, Guerlain Vol de Nuit cannot be matched: narcotic jonquil layered with a smoky, animalic galbanum, all embroidered with Guerlinade, that softens into iris and leather. A lonely, difficult thing, we need one in there that gives hell.

DENSE
An abstraction, to be sure, but such is the nature of metaphors. Caron Parfum Sacré may at first be a brassy loud mouth of a floriental, but it soon settles into creamy rose petals and meditative incense, like sinking into a soft, downy bed—pure domesticity and comfort (opposite is socially ambitious JOY, so the chart still works). What list of top ten would be complete without Guerlain Mitsouko, the iconic chypre?—ultimately an abstract representation of a forest. What bridges the gap determines the particular ecosystem, and in the case of Mitsouko, it is the gold-leaved, silver-barked mallorn trees of Lothórien. There never was a perfume so suave and intelligent, an introvert in a state of utter relaxation.

FRESH
Though light of heart and understated, these perfumes also have surprising range. They may play on textures, like the diaphanous Narciso Rodriguez, smoothly dimpled as the face of a manikin, but so inured are we to the presence of floral musks that it registers as utterly unobtrusive, deliberately bland. Or, to bring us full circle, the crisp transparency of Chanel Cristalle, which cuts through oppressive humidity with a diamond-edged knife: bitter lemons and mandarins, a scattering of jasmine petals, and gentle oakmoss sustained by sparkling aldehydes.

Purely based on empirical evidence, this is merely a system that makes the most sense to me, but approach with the proverbial grain of salt, all empiricism is limited by the breadth and depth of experience, and I am but a fledgling fumehead. My iconic representations, they may be wrong. My chart was deeply influenced by Frédéric Malle's schema: I admired how it addressed the sniffer's perceptions above all. Tell me, what are your favorites (floral, gourmand, oriental, dense, and fresh)?

Labels: , , , , , , , , , ,


1 comment(s)  
 
May 8, 2008 3:08 AM, Blogger Perfumeshrine said...

I like your reasoning and it does make sense. There is something to be said for a composition's resonance with people too and some of those are popular for a very good reason, as you succinctly point out.
Lovely piece!

 
Post a comment (NO SPAM) Permalink . del.icio.us . Stumble



Wedding Bells: The Romantic
Posted by Dain, Wednesday, May 07, 2008 12:08 AM (Eastern)

For those who glory in all the ornate rituals of femininity, one must take care to avoid preciousness. The Purist supplies clean lines with substance, The Adventurer balances raciness with wit, but The Romantic must refine clumsy, gravity-bound embellishments into an utter delicacy, pieces seemingly crafted by seraphim and inspired by natural forms.

THE RING
Me & Ro's Bombay Ring ($825) is bohemian play on the traditional pavé—why stick to the normative solitaire?—glittering Indian diamonds lend quiet excitement to rich, textured gold. Like a jewel you might have picked up at an oriental bazaar.

THE DRESS
Should I ever get married, Olivier Theyskens will surely craft my wedding gown, his romantic interpretation of eveningwear perennially captures my heart. Nina Ricci's diaphanous white chiffon is largely uncluttered, so movement is key here, the gown would flow around you as fluid as water—dramatic, angelic, ephemeral.

THE BOUQUET
Instead of white flowers, a selection of soft, pastel petals in a profusion of ornate textures makes an exquisite (under)statement against your dress.

THE ACCESSORIES
A strapless gown demands a major necklace, and why trifle with lesser gems when you can have scads of diamonds? From Harry Winston, the Vine Cluster Necklace, the only jewelry you'd need. Otherwise, keep accessories subdued in petal pink and matte, textured metallics: Prada d'Orsay ($560) and Bottega Veneta Cervo Clutch ($1480).

THE SCENT
There are few things that signify a celebratory mood quite so well as Guerlain Shalimar ($350), a brocaded, bejeweled vanilla inspired by love and the Orient.

THE SONG
Neutral Milk Hotel's "In the Aeroplane Over the Sea" is an awkward little love ballad that seems all the sweeter for its awkwardness.

THE BRIDESMAIDS
An albino is conspicuous in nature, like a white rose amongst a garden of regal irises (or the famous Van Gogh painting). Cocktail dresses in shades of lush, mysterious violet: H Chalayan ($538), Moschino Cheap & Chic ($785), and Lanvin.

THE GIFT
Don't hoard your crystal, there's nothing cooler than functional luxury, and there's no greater encouragement than this gorgeous William Yeoward Fern Goblet ($225 each)—you won't want to hide it away.

THE WEDDING NIGHT
When nothing but the most exquisite craftsmanship and finest handmade lace will do, from the impeccable couture house of Carine Gilson ($290 for bra, $178 for thong).

THE HONEYMOON
Journey to the ancient heart of the world, Egypt.

Labels: ,