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Posted by Dain, Saturday, May 28, 2005 12:44 AM (Eastern) Frames for the Canvas These are subtle elements—brows and eyelashes, skin, blush (which is a "color product", technically, but I prefer a natural flush, even if the products I turn to don't necessarily look so natural in the pot). They cannot be neglected, whether you like a natural or a more made-up look. In some ways, they are the most difficult aspect of make-up—plucking brows? curling lashes? foundation? a source of trepidation for many. BROWS: My eyebrows are rather sparse, though not thin (they're not bushy, nor coarse, but they cover a fairly large area), so a bit of tweezing is all I really require from time to time. A good way to keep me at it is to leave a pair of tweezers near my desk, so I'll pluck them during lulls. I use Tweezerman's Slant tweezers, which are undeniably the best. I follow a more-or-less instinctual line (fairly thin, more straight than curved), but for most women, figuring out how to tweeze can be a hopeless conundrum. I suggest, then, that you have your brows professionally waxed (to your satisfaction, of course), and then keep the line clean with occasional pluckings. If you've bushy brows, you'll might want to consider getting your brows trimmed. This is a job best reserved for professionals, but if you're handy, by all means—all you need is an eyelash comb and a pair of grooming scissors (the kind one sees to trim nose hairs). Any unruly hairs can be tamed with brow gel, or, in a pinch, some hair gel on a clean mascara comb, or even lip balm. If, like me, you're sparse, your task is a little easier (if you've got *very* thin brows, professional help, again, is best—you can get your eyebrows "threaded"). I like Maybelline's Twin Brow Pencil—in theory equitably an eyeliner, but I dismiss that as rank nonsense, this is fairly low in pigment and waxy—fantastic for brows, but horrid for eyelining. I use the shade "grey", a greyish taupe, a shade that would look natural, not garish, on 90% of brunettes and some darker blondes (there are plenty of shades, so take your pick). I also like Trish McEvoy Definer in Deep Aubergine for more intensity (and more of a "fill-in" effect), though that is originally intended for eyelining purposes (the plummy tint matches my hair well). EYELASHES: This is not always a crucial step for everyone, but it is for me (my eyes are Asian, as is all the rest of me). I need to curl and use volumizing mascara both. I prefer the richest black I can find, though if you've nice lashes to begin with you might prefer a subtle plum (enhances green and blue eyes), a navy for brighter whites, or for a supersubtle look, a bronze (if you're a pale blonde). In any case, I've settled on L'Oréal Voluminous and Shu Uemura Eye Lash Curler, both longtime industry favorites. I curl my lashes, wipe off most (but not all) of the gunk on the mascara wand, and wiggle the wand through my lashes for a few coats. Simple enough. SKIN: I don't like foundation. If I need to wear any, I'll make a concession to wear Aveda Dual Base Minus Oil (which I think is called something else now... "Inner Light" or something). It's a powder, so it's light, but looks very, very natural (not cakey), and gives superb coverage (you need only a little), is very cost-effective, and is scented mildly of rose. But... I prefer not to wear any at all, because I feel like it hides the natural glow of skin. I much prefer just to use concealer—YSL Touche Eclat, or Stephane Marais. BLUSH: I'm very pale, and rather colorless (I'm not certain if I can blush, physically), so blush is an ABSOLUTE essential in my life. But I see little reason to own more than one blush. The best way to choose a blush is to pick one that matches your complexion—i.e. the color that best mimics blood rushing naturally to the skin—rather than your other makeup. In other words, it matches you. The task may have proven easier for me, however, because I tend to wear the same sort of rosy lipcolor always. I don't wear peachy blush not only because my skin doesn't care for it, but also because I don't wear warm or neutral lip tones. I steer clear of brown, neutral blushes, as well, because on my pale skin, they look muddy. Clear pink tones are best: NARS Desire, MAC Angel, Benetint, Stila Rose Convertible Color. What am I currently using? NARS Mata Hari—true to form, a clear, pure bright pink, given a little bit of a sophisticated edge with mauve tones and a slight dustiness. MAC POWERSURGE: And finally, I don't what this is categorized under, but since I nearly always wear this (as often as I wear blush—which is to say, always) and with everything, I don't think it qualifies as an "eye color product" but rather as a basic. It gives subtle definition, but isn't dark enough to compete with whatever powder liner I might layer over it. The gold is supremely flattering, and works as a sort of catalyst that allows incongruent shades to work together. In any case, this is a staple—more important than brushes, even. Labels: minimalism |
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