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· July 9, 2007 10:37 AM by
cmm
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Posted by Dain, Monday, July 09, 2007 3:53 AM (Eastern)
Now, I'm not sure if this benefits anyone but myself, but when you're developing skincare, it's the ingredients that shine. There are two different kinds of skincare ingredients: the workhorses that are basic and useful, and the stars that have special effects on the skin. The ingredients that you choose are important; there's a vast difference from cheap mineral oil to the costly sea buckthorn oil, and it makes a difference. Raw ingredients are not, on the whole, cosmetically elegant, and it is equally important how the ingredients work together. Plus, certain ingredients, such as star ingredients, dictate the product. NOTA BENE: I am not a chemist, so my knowledge is limited to natural ingredients.
jojoba oil: Not actually an oil, but a liquid wax, it is the lipid that most closely resembles human sebum, thus it has near mythical qualities. It balances the skin, rather than making it greasy. It is also remarkably stable, but it is more expensive than most. I would use jojoba as an ideal base oil, combined with other, more precious oils that have more astringent (neem, hazelnut, grapeseed) or nourishing (rosehip, sea buckthorn, borage) properties to accomodate for oily or dry skin.
shea butter and beeswax: Oils are very well, but they're not enough for dry skin. I adore shea butter for dry skin, it softens and soothes like nothing else, but it's extremely tacky when used pure, so I would use it in moderation. Beeswax is a little troubling, but I think in moderate quantities its comedogenic qualities diminish. I love beeswax myself, it's incredibly protective and has a brightening effect on my skin, which is a boon as I cannot use AHAs or vitamin C without getting contact dermatitis. I have been reading about jojoba esters on the fabulous site fromnaturewithlove.com, which apparently work as a substitute for beeswax—may help with diminishing the quantity I might need it for "thickening" purposes.
An orange blossom hydrosol is a richer and more fragrant alternative to plain water, with a dilute concentration of essential oil. In spite of the popularity of rose, I actually prefer the scent of orange blossoms. I would also use aloe vera gel as a replacement for water, especially as a base in serums, though it would require the use of an adequate preservative.
lavender essential oil: In my mind, nothing is more magnificent than the calm, heavenly scent of lavender. I would like all of my products to smell primarily of lavender, softened somewhat by the scent of the orange blossom water and the vanillic edge of benzoin. Simple, but truly clean and herbal, just a touch sweet and floral. Which means that lavender would probably feature in everything, but like jojoba oil, it does well as a universal ingredient: it's antiseptic and soothing.
other essential oils: For drier skin, rose, chamomile, and neroli are tried and true classics that nurture and renew, while sandalwood, rose geranium, and ylang ylang are wonderful for oily skin because of their astringent properties. The question is, do essential oils work? Yes and no. They do not work to the extent of their more artificial cousins, that is true, but then, I would not depend on them for treatment, but rather to enhance a more basic product like a face oil. I love face oils because they work with the skin rather than against it—they are maintenance products, not treatment products—and the lower intensity of essential oils (unless one overdoses) is well suited.
So much for the basics, now, the star ingredients, which will the object of some focus in a given product:
My favorite ingredient to combat acne is salicylic acid (originally obtained from willow bark), which does its work primarily through exfoliation, so a serum would be ideal, if it does not mix well with a very fine clay such as rhassoul, to help draw out impurities overnight. I would add the powerfully antibacterial effects of tea tree oil, not as harsh as benzoyl peroxide, but very effective, as well as the healing benefits of calendula.
vitamin C: One of the wonder ingredients of the age, though I can't use it myself. It adds clarity and radiance to the skin and counteracts hyperpigmentation. It also fights acne. But its most famous use is in anti-aging skincare. It is also notorious for instability, which means that with a concentrated serum, it is important to ensure that it doesn't break down and become ineffective. I would probably combine this with a powerful antioxidant, like green tea extract, which will not harm oily skin, as well as some AHAs for extra exfoliation.
calendula: Though calendula will work well in other skincare products, I would use it in a rich, unctuous healing multipurpose salve for truly ravaged, dry, sensitive skin.
A lovely exfoliant/mask seems appropriate to finish off. Though masks are more psychological than physiological, I have to admit that it is nice to use one on occassion. I would make mine a dual-action exfoliant and mask, one that isn't meant to be caked on and let dry. The exfoliant would be primarily rice bran, perhaps mixed with adzuki, which appeals to me most out of all the scrubby particles possible, and the clay might be mild clay like kaolinite. Cram it full of essential oils, add some hemp seed oil to keep it from being too drying, honey, aloe vera, and oatmeal to soothe, and it would be ready to go.
Labels: alchemist's apprentice, beauty notes
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July 9, 2007 10:37 AM,
If I may add a few of my own natural skin/hair care favorites.
Honey. This is a miracle worker, IMO. It does so many things. 2 of them being a natural humectant and antibiotic. I use this on my face and my hair. It gives me amazing waves when mixed into my conditioner.
Coconut Milk. Straight out of the can, its a miracle hair treatment. Mixed into bathwater, a miracle skin soak!
Coconut oil. I have to be careful with this as I think I may be allergic. Rubbed into skin, its a wonderful moisturizer. On hair, gives shine and gloss like you wouldn't believe. I've had better luck with Monoi Oil on my hair than regular coconut oil though.
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