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TBF Project:Blog
Posted by Dain, Monday, September 17, 2007 9:59 AM (Eastern)
I've always felt that the product advice given by makeup artists ought to be taken with a grain of salt. The makeup they do is intended to be photographed, and the sort of makeup that one wears every day is really quite different. Here's what I mean.
I am not an advocate of foundation for real life, unless your skin is genuinely uneven. But in photography, which enhances skin flaws to an alarming degree, practically everyone looks better in foundation. This is why they used to use pancake makeup, and to this day, makeup artists favor cream foundation, which can double as concealer, though when working on models (who have perfect skin to begin with) they favor lighter formulations like MAC Face & Body. Cream foundations of note: Shu Uemura Nobara (I think this is called something else now), Kevyn Aucoin Sensual Skin Enhancer, Clé de Peau. Depending on your skin type and the cream foundation you choose, you may like a dusting of loose powder to set makeup and blot shine. For this, you may choose a translucent powder like Kevyn Aucoin The Gossamer Loose Powder, or colored ones like T. LeClerc's for especial warmth or radiance. For warmth, try yellow or apricot, for radiance, pink or lilac will do, though you may prefer to use a highlighter instead. A highlighter is entirely useless for everyday makeup in my humble opinion, but makeup artists favor it because it adds light to the face.
When it comes to everything else, colors and lines tend to wash out or fade in a photograph, so you should always err on the side of "heavy" enhancement. I suggest paying attention to your brows, because they are fundamental in giving structure to the face. If you are lazy in this area (and you shouldn't be, brows are more important than lipstick), then take the time for once if you know you are going to be photographed. Make sure that blush and lipcolor are applied stronger than usual (though not to the point that it looks clownish), and photography is a rare instance when lipliner comes into its own. On movie sets, it is a favorite trick, layered over lip balm (usually Dr. Hauschka). But of course, lipstick will do. I'd choose a rich, classic shade, and eschew the frosty, glossy offerings for another day. With eyes, again, stronger than usual is advisable. You needn't be extravagant, but it's no surprise that smokey eyes are favored by practically every starlet for almost every event. At the very least, define your lashline, because it tends to disappear in photographs, with mascara and eyeliner. A bit of sheer shimmer on the lids will open up the eyes, a useful trick in real life, too. As an alternative, add depth with a bit of pigment softly blended into the crease.
The most important thing? Good lighting, soft and warm.
Labels: cle de peau, color me in, kevyn aucoin, shu uemura, t leclerc
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