1. flawless face: If you have any redness in the face, it will be exaggerated by red lipstick. It is imperative, therefore, that the skin be free of blemish. Foundation, concealer, and powder are all recommended (or some combination thereof). When it comes to blush, I like a bit of highlighter for the subtlest glow, but a very soft, clear pink is also very flattering. If you are tan, and have chosen an orange-red or coral-red, bronzer is also a beautiful option.


2. the perfect red: Above is an example of cherry red; it is bright, but also the most classic, the most neutral. If you have not found your perfect red yet, I suggest Bésame Red Velvet—a touch of rose (but not fuschia) softens what is bright—the most universally wearable red I have ever set eyes on, without prevarications into sheer. It's creamy, full pigment, in the most adorable mini-bullet tube. A warm red is especially flattering on a redhead; it should have a little orange and a lot of brown, and brick reds know no greater expression than Sue Devitt Great Australian Bight. Cool reds especially flatter pale brunettes, I love the dramatic blue-red of NARS Scarlett Empress. I think a brighter red better suits blondes: Lipstick Queen Red Sinner is for you. If you do not have the precision to apply straight from the tube, you may need to resort to a lipliner and lip brush.


3. what to wear on eyes: It should go without saying that red lipstick requires a fairly minimal eye. You can experiment with color to some degree—a rich indigo looks lovely with a raspberry red stain, an antiqued olive is a beautiful counterpart to a glossy coral red—but you do run the risk of looking messy. But, to leave the eyes entirely naked is a failure of balance. I suggest, rather, tasteful, subtle enhancement. The most classic is black liquid (or these days, gel) liner, as seen in the image above. It is graphic, but clean, so it does not overburden the eyes, though it may cross somewhat into the overly retro. Another option is a wash of icy white or champagne (seen below, with cool red lips), with mascara, which emphasizes the standoffish quality of red lipstick, fit for a Snow Queen. But my favorite method is a haze of medium shadow, because it adds balance without making a big statement. Warm reds look best with gold when the lipstick is darker, as in the example below, for brighter reds, amber is especially beautiful. Cool reds are easily complemented by pewter or dove grey, such as NARS Bombshell. For the least competition, a matte taupe is perfect, as at the top.

Labels: besame, lipstick queen, lookbook, nars, sue devitt