Posted by
Dain,
Friday, October 05, 2007
1:34 AM (Eastern)
Above: Bobbi Brown's bridal look is fresh, classic, and pretty.
Many of the techniques behind bridal makeup have a similitude to polished makeup. A few specialized products will provide you with optimum results—cream foundation, waterproof mascara—but other than that, it is largely a difference of application, in deference to the camera. Basically, you apply a little bit more of everything.
skin: If ever there is a time to treat yourself, it would be your wedding day. I wouldn't recommend getting a facial too close to the day itself (who knows what might happen), but a few extra steps are not only calming but will add a welcome glow. Exfoliate well, which will immediately allow Jurlique Deep Penetrating Cream Mask to penetrate even more deeply for maximum benefit, as well as provide a really smooth surface for makeup later. Apply moisturizer that works well as a base for makeup, or a good primer like Smashbox.
pancake makeup: Instead of your usual foundation, I'd use Shu Uemura Nobara Cream Foundation. It's cakey in real life, but will give you flawless skin on film, and except for the very worst spots, no concealer is required. Here is my apologia: this is serious foundation, and requires careful application, but the point of this series to share the techniques and colors that look best, regardless of health, convenience, or the dictates of editorialists. Nobara requires some practice; you can apply it straight with fingers, but I'll also include more precise directions. Scrape a little onto the palm of the hand, the warmth makes it easier to blend. If you are between shades (there aren't that many) as I am, you may find it necessary to blend two, which is annoying in some senses, but useful in others, because you can make it somewhat lighter for under the eyes or for changes in skin tone over the seasons. Apply small (always easier to add than to subtract) amounts of warmed-up, mixed-up Nobara to the face, concentrating on the most problematic zones: the corners of the eyes, nose, and lips, which are the darkest parts of the face. Using a firm, dense sponge (regular liquid foundation sponges can be too rough for cream foundation, Shu Uemura offers a sponge better suited, if you want to be OCD about it), which you may wish to dampen first, blend outwards and downwards using light strokes. Blend well but do not rub (will stir up flakes), making sure to blend over jawline to prevent any lines of demarcation, adding more as required. If you are worried that this might a one-time use product, no fear: this melts beautifully over regular liquid foundation, as concealer. Loose powder (Clé de Peau is especially fine) is useful just to set makeup and impart an impeccable, poreless, shine-free finish, and provide a smooth surface for blush and eyeshadow (make sure to dust your eyelids) for long-lasting, non-blotchy application.
bright pink blush: Apply with a more liberal hand than usual, as photographs will wash you out. I have a soft spot for NARS Desire, my go-to blush for years. It is a beautiful choice for all but the warmest of complexions, who may favor coral instead. For most people, smile, and apply to the fleshy "apple" of the cheek, blend a bit on the temples and chin for a more convincing, overall glow (when we blush, we blush all over). Overall, I think bridal makeup should be blush-focused. It is less of a "statement" than strong lips or eyes, and the statement is eloquently romantic.
classic eyes: Perfect brows are a must. I wouldn't experiment too much with color on the eyes, which may prove to be a distraction. Neutrals are best, with a minimum of shimmer (frost picks up flash). As with blush, you'll want to apply a little heavier than usual. This is in some ways a smoky eye in reversal (you're not trying to create depth and intensity here, but light and freshness, and deeper shades layered over lighter shades are softer): apply the lightest shade (a matte white, for the cleanest look) first on the entire lid including browbone, then a medium shade like soft rose (NARS Nepal, it has shimmer but it is very soft) for the lid, and then finally, liner, a gunmetal like Bobbi Brown Graphite Shimmer Ink, which is not so harsh as black. A white/rose/gunmetal combination is classic, sophisticated, and photographs well; they complement each other perfectly, and the rose hums in harmony with your lips and cheeks. But, I look better in cooler tones, so I'd probably switch out the rose and use lilac instead. Your coloring may demand some similar substitution. For example, if you have darker skin, the white may look too chalky. Tightlining is always a useful enhancement.
waterproof mascara: Shiseido Lasting Lift Mascara is probably my favorite mascara for a rich black, curl-enhancing, clump-free, lash-emphaszing, indelible... I don't believe in expensive mascara, which is why I prefer L'Oréal. It's recommended here, as it won't smear no matter how hard you cry.
rich lipstick: Again, you don't want any color that's too pale, because photographs wash color out. One particular color comes especially to mind: Chanel Sexy Rouge Allure, a pink-red with complex shimmer (you know, "redcurrant"), is a shade that feels special but not overdone. Kevyn Aucoin Enchantaberry The Expert Lip Tint has much the same effect without the shimmer. For a warmer option, may I suggest Bésame Chocolate Kiss Enchanting Lipstick? If you are particularly pale, a sweet little pink like Lipstick Queen Rose Sinner is beautiful and romantic.
What should you carry with you? Lipcolor, powder compact, q-tips (to clean up any messes), eyeliner (to replace faded makeup), maybe a small vial of perfume.
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