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The Lipstick Page Forums Beauty & Fashion Blog
Beauty Notes: Serge Lutens Bois de Violette Review


Posted by Dain, Sunday, December 30, 2007 12:34 AM (Eastern)

Every note in perfume has its own particular character, and among florals, rose is the queen, jasmine, a countess, and tuberose, perhaps, is a courtesan. Were I to continue this thin analogy further, violet would be a princess, sweet, precious, and spoiled. It was a flower beloved of Victorians, which may explain my antipathy for it. I would like to like it, just as I would like to like Dickens and Henry James, but the combination of prudery and self-righteousness (all ersatz, if you ask me, a pleasing veneer for their taste for melodrama) is overdone to my nose. Like saccharine morality, the violet has a certain sweetness to it, bound to give you a toothache in the wrong hands: Caron Aimez-Moi, for example (who else but a princess could demand such a thing?), was nausea in a bottle. Guerlain Les Meteorites is better, a little less edibility with the omission of anise and the addition of a soft white musk, the scent of a mother, in the Platonic world. I have yet to try the iconic Violettes de Toulouse.

All things considered, violets aren't "me". But Serge Lutens, master of making the character of raw notes manifest, offers one that is soothing and comforting, like a mug of fine hot chocolate, no corn syrup, thank you very much.

Dancer Adjusting Her Slipper, by Degas, of course, is a good visual similitude to Bois de Violette. The subject is a figure of much sentimental delicacy, but the awkward pose, severe outlines, and rough coloring add enough texture to make the eye linger.

It begins with the sharpness of the leaf and the aromatic touch of white cedar, the latter of which is quite reticent to my nose. In fact, I would have preferred more cedar, for it is too much the eminence grisé to the rather showy entrance of violet, a sort of effervescent sweetness not unlike... grape soda. As the perfume moves into the heart, the flower is revealed in all its modesty and purity, as if someone has turned a spotlight on it. Violet never really loses that princess-y quality. It gets moodier and sweeter as it dries down, but it remains superbly elegant throughout the whole.

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