Posted by
Dain,
Friday, December 14, 2007
1:36 PM (Eastern)
A few months ago, I surmised that this might be my ultimate skincare routine, from left to right: Lancôme Bi-Facil, Primavera Gentle Cleansing Fluid, Biologique Recherche Lotion P50, Jurlique Herbal Recovery Gel, Embryolisse Lait-Crème Concentré, Burt's Bees Repair Serum.
Now, I am a skincare fanatic. I have practical reasons for this, but it is also some inexplicable personal fascination, and I have been trying to perfect a routine for years. Again, I am not sure why. I actually have excellent skin, and could probably get away with soap, but that's just no fun. After many years of trial and error, from drugstore Bioré to the costly La Prairie, I learned to see past the hype, and above was what it had boiled down to, by late summer.
My worst skin symptoms, however, occur in winter, when flakes and dehydrating are nigh. I still suffer from the occasional allergic reaction or contact dermatitus, but largely because I test so many random products. So I couldn't designate it "ultimate", in the Latinate sense of finality, status until it survived the ribbing, as it were. Well, it's winter, and I have not found it lacking (I never got the Biologique Recherche, and am still in the process of using up face creams from the past). In fact, I can cut it down to these:
I haven't yet bought myself a bottle of the Lancôme Bi-Facil ($24), the longstanding industry favorite that spawned a million and a half counterfeits. Intellectually, I understand the importance of speedy, effective, and thorough eye-makeup removal, lest one rub and tear, but practically, I wear very little makeup of late, and so justify my laziness.
Though initially underwhelmed by Primavera's Refining Exfoliating Cleanser ($42), I have found myself implicated by continued use. I have become partial to its odd, fermented organic sugar-flower scent, and as an exfoliant it is effective but gentle enough to use everyday even on my delicate skin. Even the expense, spaced out over four months, is justified by its quality. Most cleansing milks/lotions from natural companies are too occlusive to rinse off properly, but this one is as silky and water-soluble as Cetaphil, which has since been gathering dust. It is a simple product, a mild exfoliant cum cleanser, but in my experience the simple products are the hardest of all to find, while hyped junk is literally forced down one's throat by overzealous SAs. It just keeps flakes and clogged pores at bay (the former better than the latter), while managing its requisite duties as cleanser with equal éclat, and if it smells good and has good moral fiber (100% organic and fair trade!), so much the better.
Jurlique Herbal Recovery Gel ($134) is a queer product. It has alcohol and oils, which are decided no-no's according to the world according to beauty editors, advice I have long ago disregarded as nonsense. It smells like a vase of roses gone stale, and yet I find its fragrance utterly delicious, nature's cocktail. It runs amok claims of miracles as irresponsibly as a French label, and a straight run of the ingredients reveals a garden of pure, natural antioxidants and oils (evening primrose, ginseng, gingko biloba, licorice root, rose, matricaria, marshmallow, echinacea, calendula, violet, heartsease, daisy, chickweed, black elder, rose hip, jojoba, aloe vera, plus lactic acid, ascorbic acid, retinyl palmitate, tocopheryl acetate), so one would assume an light vitamin-rich hydrating serum, which is exactly what this is, no miracle. It has slight brightening properties, which are instantaneous, and over time, it seems to balance the skin to a healthy, normal state, which has obviated the need for the reparative properties of the Burt's Bees face oil featured originally. A little goes a long way, my $134 for 3.4 oz bottle should last a year. In summer, it is enough hydration on its own, in winter, a cleanly built cream will do.
And speaking of cleanly built creams, Embryolisse Lait-Crème Concentré ($20) is simply the best, with a highly absorptive, velvety texture and a no-nonsense formula that soothes, hydrates, prepares skin for makeup, without any nasty ingredients intended for cosmetic effects, e.g. silicones, and absolutely no hype save excellence alone. Truly, a rarity in the skincare industry. Yet another example of a simple preparation, well done, this time at very little expense.
It's interesting...even as many things you've predicted (that's the wrong word, I'm having a brain freeze...foresaw? that's not it either) have come about, beauty-wise, skincare still hasn't. I mean people do spend a lot of money on it, but it takes patience, it's not an impulsive thing. You have to stick with it to see the full results. And it's more a matter of what you don't see, than of what you do.
I agree, a small amount of alcohol does work. Oils work too.
I think people are willing to pay more for instant gratification when it comes to skincare, disregarding that it's skincare, which implies continuous practice rather than product worship, which is all, much as I adore them, that a NARS duo demands. It's really taken me this long to get settled in my own routine, so I think it is a delicate and difficult process requiring much more patience than money.
I think that's just the thing. Good skincare doesn't tend to work right away, or else it doesn't fully work right off. That's why it's harder to popularize.
Yeah...I had to stop with the Nars duos. I still eye them, it's just occurred to me...they keep forever, they don't turn hard or crumbly (at least mine haven't) over the years. So each one involves a certain commitment.
December 15, 2007 3:38 PM,
It's interesting...even as many things you've predicted (that's the wrong word, I'm having a brain freeze...foresaw? that's not it either) have come about, beauty-wise, skincare still hasn't. I mean people do spend a lot of money on it, but it takes patience, it's not an impulsive thing. You have to stick with it to see the full results. And it's more a matter of what you don't see, than of what you do.
I agree, a small amount of alcohol does work. Oils work too.
December 15, 2007 6:32 PM,
I think people are willing to pay more for instant gratification when it comes to skincare, disregarding that it's skincare, which implies continuous practice rather than product worship, which is all, much as I adore them, that a NARS duo demands. It's really taken me this long to get settled in my own routine, so I think it is a delicate and difficult process requiring much more patience than money.
December 15, 2007 11:28 PM,
I think that's just the thing. Good skincare doesn't tend to work right away, or else it doesn't fully work right off. That's why it's harder to popularize.
Yeah...I had to stop with the Nars duos. I still eye them, it's just occurred to me...they keep forever, they don't turn hard or crumbly (at least mine haven't) over the years. So each one involves a certain commitment.
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