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Articles This Month
· Beauty Notes: "Surviving the Shows"
· Culture Notes: California music part 3 (Northern)
· An Array Ecumenical: The Magnificent Coat
· The Mnemonic Sense: Bohemian
· Culture Notes: California music part 2 (California and...)
· Montale Boise Vanille review
· An Array Ecumenical: The Refined Blazer
· Culture Notes: California music part 1 (random)
· The Mnemonic Sense: Urban
· An Array Ecumenical: The Soigné Cardigan
· The Mnemonic Sense: Pastoral
· An Array Ecumenical: The Sublime Frock
· The Mnemonic Sense: Sultry
· An Array Ecumenical: The Chunky Sweater
· Beauty Notes: What I've been into, lately
· An Array Ecumenical: The Fine Knit
· The Mnemonic Sense: Baroque
· Dr. Hauschka Novum LipGloss #04 Ruby
· Beauty Notes: Katie Holmes' Stash
· The Mnemonic Sense: Introduction
· An Array Ecumenical: The Splendid Blouse
· Beauty Notebook: He blinded me with science
· Beauty Notebook: New Offerings from i Profumi di Firenze
· An Array Ecumenical: The Crisp Buttondown
· Montale Intense Tiare review
· Beauty Notes: "Perfume is a promise in a bottle"*
· An Array Ecumenical: The Simple Tee
· Shiana silver, part 2
· Culture Notes: My Other Blog
· Fashion Notes: Haul from Coach
· An Array Ecumenical: The Neat Skirt
· Culture Notes: Queen, and some collaborations
· Culture Notes: On Virginia Woolf and Thomas Hardy
· An Array Ecumenical: The Fancy Trouser
· Beauty & Fashion Notes: this 'n' that
· An Array Ecumenical: The Casual Pant
· Parfums Raffy perfume coupon code, 10% off
· Beauty Notes: Bisous de Provence Wild Rose Triple Milled Soap
· An Array Ecumenical: The Blue Jean
· An Array Ecumenical: The Layering Camisole
· Beauty Notes: Open Call for Models
· An Array Ecumenical: The Black Bra
· An Array Ecumenical*: Introduction
· Fantasy Web Find of the Day: Jane Taylor Tourmaline Earrings in Yellow Gold
· Blog Action Day: The Lorax
· Fantasy Web Find of the Day: Carine Gilson Silk & Lace Chemise
· Fashion Notes: The Cult of Skinny
· Beauty Notes: Montale perfume this 'n' that
· Beauty Notes: Chanel Beauté Initiale review
· Fantasy Web Find of the Day: Roberto del Carlo Suede Crepe Sole Kneeboot
· Montale Aoud Blossom and Boise Vanille (preliminary sniff)
· Montale Blue Amber (preliminary sniff)
· Montale White Aoud, part 2
· Beauty Notes: Best of Beauty (Dain)
· Fantasy Web Find of the Day: Edidi Plated Mesh Clutch
· Montale Sweet Oriental Dream review
· Montale Sweet Oriental Dream (preliminary sniff)
· So...IS there lead in your lipstick?
· Lookbook: Asian
· Fantasy Web Find of the Day: Juliette et Justine Le Detenteur de Sang Sacre
· Fashion Notes: Is the bride too beautiful?
· Montale Chypre - Fruite, part 2 (review)
· Beauty Notes: Free Bésame Soufflé Foundation with $30 Purchase (Offer Ending Saturday)
· Fantasy Web Find of the Day: Giuseppe Zanotti Oilslick Pump
· Beauty Notebook: Rings, Things, and Fine Array, an Interview with Bésame Cosmetics (part 5)
· Beauty Notebook: Rings, Things, and Fine Array, an Interview with Bésame Cosmetics (part 4)
· Montale Chypre - Fruite, part 1
· Beauty Notebook: Rings, Things, and Fine Array, an Interview with Bésame Cosmetics (part 3)
· Fantasy Web Find of the Day: DAY Birger et Mikkelsen Silk Kurta
· Beauty Notes: Interesting Article
· Montale White Aoud, part 1
· Culture Notes: American music
· Lookbook: Bridal
· Beauty Notes: Keira Knightley for Coco Mademoiselle
· Beauty Notes: Brushes for Charity
· MySpace, man...
· Beauty Notes: Adventures with L'Oréal HIP
· Montale Powder Flowers review
· Beauty Notes: Going Green
· Beauty Notes: In My Bag
· Beauty Notes: What's in a Name?
· Montale perfumes arrive
· Beauty Notebook OCTOBER 2007: A Whisper Down the Field

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Comments
· November 1, 2007 12:30 PM by Blogger Colleen Shirazi
· November 1, 2007 3:07 PM by Blogger Dain
· November 1, 2007 6:38 PM by Blogger Colleen Shirazi
· November 4, 2007 3:10 AM by Blogger Dain
· October 31, 2007 6:18 PM by Blogger Dain
· November 1, 2007 12:35 PM by Blogger Colleen Shirazi
· November 3, 2007 5:13 AM by Blogger Audrey_H
· October 31, 2007 12:51 AM by Blogger Colleen Shirazi
· October 31, 2007 1:43 PM by Blogger Dain
· November 1, 2007 1:04 PM by Blogger Colleen Shirazi
· November 1, 2007 3:03 PM by Blogger Dain
· November 1, 2007 6:49 PM by Blogger Colleen Shirazi
· October 31, 2007 1:08 PM by Blogger Dain
· November 1, 2007 6:53 PM by Blogger Colleen Shirazi
· October 28, 2007 2:29 PM by Blogger Peach
· October 28, 2007 2:50 PM by Blogger Dain
· October 27, 2007 8:07 AM by Blogger Chez Moi
· October 25, 2007 3:35 PM by Blogger Dain
· October 25, 2007 1:14 PM by Blogger Chez Moi
· October 25, 2007 1:34 PM by Blogger Dain
· October 25, 2007 1:17 PM by Blogger Chez Moi
· October 25, 2007 1:25 PM by Blogger Dain
· October 28, 2007 1:57 PM by Blogger Colleen Shirazi
· October 23, 2007 4:50 PM by Blogger Dain
· October 23, 2007 5:22 PM by Blogger Colleen Shirazi
· October 21, 2007 6:30 PM by Blogger Dain
· October 21, 2007 7:31 PM by Blogger Dain
· October 21, 2007 8:20 PM by Blogger Dain
· October 21, 2007 8:21 PM by Blogger Dain
· October 22, 2007 2:10 PM by Blogger Colleen Shirazi
· October 22, 2007 3:02 PM by Blogger Dain
· October 21, 2007 1:46 PM by Blogger Colleen Shirazi
· October 21, 2007 2:21 PM by Blogger Dain
· October 21, 2007 5:38 PM by Blogger Colleen Shirazi
· April 13, 2008 1:57 AM by Blogger Pioneering Over Four Epochs
· October 20, 2007 12:25 PM by Blogger Dain
· October 20, 2007 10:57 PM by Blogger Colleen Shirazi
· October 20, 2007 10:24 PM by Blogger Colleen Shirazi
· October 21, 2007 10:59 AM by Blogger Dain
· October 21, 2007 1:38 PM by Blogger Colleen Shirazi
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· October 21, 2007 5:50 PM by Blogger Colleen Shirazi
· October 20, 2007 10:22 PM by Blogger Colleen Shirazi
· October 21, 2007 12:35 PM by Blogger Dain
· October 17, 2007 1:06 AM by Blogger Peach
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· October 14, 2007 8:40 AM by Blogger Chez Moi
· October 14, 2007 1:09 PM by Blogger Dain
· October 14, 2007 2:39 PM by Blogger Colleen Shirazi
· October 14, 2007 5:39 PM by Blogger Dain
· October 14, 2007 7:29 PM by Blogger Colleen Shirazi
· October 14, 2007 9:13 PM by Blogger Dain
· October 14, 2007 9:30 PM by Blogger Chez Moi
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· October 14, 2007 10:45 PM by Blogger Colleen Shirazi
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· October 13, 2007 1:52 PM by Blogger Colleen Shirazi
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· October 13, 2007 2:11 PM by Blogger Dain
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The Lipstick Page Forums Beauty & Fashion Blog: October 2007


Beauty Notes: "Surviving the Shows"
Posted by Dain, Wednesday, October 31, 2007 2:36 PM (Eastern)


One of the axioms I maintain is that if a bunch of models (NOT dermatologists, makeup artists, or actresses) sing the praises of a skincare product, perk up your ears and listen. Dermatologists understand the theory but either fail to realize the importance of more cosmetic concerns (smell, texture, etc.) or tend to focus on treatment rather than care (because their clients generally come to them in emergencies). The skin may be a canvas to a makeup artist, but the day-to-day care, upon which good skin depends, is not their responsibility. And I detest most celebrities; for the most part they're selling shit. This article was the first source of inspiration to me, though it is rather silly, because it points out that skincare is part of a model's livelihood. Though they may not necessarily be the most intelligent consumers in the world, they tend to use what works: practically all of them are devotees of Dr. Hauschka (though personally, I think Jurlique is the superior line).

Since the image is blurry, I'll type out the article:

During the collections, models dart from show to show, having makeup applied, touched up, and scrubbed off countless times; then there are the after-parties, where many drink, dance, and smoke until the sun rises. Still, they emerge for work the next day looking better than people who get a full eight hours of sleep.



"Skin care is part of a model's job," says makeup artist Mary Greenwell, who masterminded looks at Giorgio Armani, Paul Smith, and Ghost. "Even if they party all night, they take damn good care of their skin." Indeed, many stick to a strict, no-exceptions regimen that's as much a part of their lifestyle as Veuve Cliquot. "I was on a trip to Morocco with Shalom, and we arrived in the absolute middle of the night," recalls Greenwell. "I watched this poor girl take off layers of eye makeup—I'd have gone to sleep with it on."



Cleansing is key. "Models turn up backstage covered in makeup. I tell them to find a cleanser they like and carry it with them," says makeup genius (Dolce & Gabbana, Prada, Hussein Chalayan) Pat McGrath, herself partial to Lancôme's rose-scented Galatée Douceur cleanser and Tonique Douceur toner. Runway veterans Carolyn Murphy, Naomi Campbell, Kate Moss, and Maggie Rizer ("Major skin," gasps McGrath) have taken her advice to heart. "They really watch their skin. These girls come to the shows with their makeup off," she says. Model Stella Tennant totes Chanel cleanser and toner everywhere; Ling is devoted to Shu Uemura Cleansing Oil and regularly visits her facialist in Manhattan's Chinatown. Alek Wek drinks "loads of milk" each morning and maintains her smooth ebony skin with massive amounts of Vaseline. "Head to toe," she says. "I've used it since I was two."



Greenwell revives dull, overworked complexions with Elizabeth Arden Skin Illuminating Complex. "By midday, the girls have already been through at least two shows, but they still have to look like it's first thing in the morning. This makes skin look delicious—instantly," she enthuses. McGrath relies on Jurlique's "genius" rosewater aromatherapy mist. "At Miu Miu, we started makeup and hair at 6 a.m.: twenty-four girls, all half asleep," she says. "A few spritzes around the face and neck is moisturizing and feels lovely."



Breakouts are dealt with unceremoniously: "Good skin is the basis of every look, and a pimple's not going to get better by putting makeup over it," says McGrath. "If a model turns up with spots, off she goes to the dermatologist." Ouch.

Editor's note: At the time, Greenwell was under the payroll of Elizabeth Arden, but the rest of the article seems to consist of clean recommendations. McGrath has mentioned Lancôme skincare before, though I believe these particular products have either been discontinued or reformulated since the publication of this article. Tyra Banks also uses Shu Uemura Cleansing Oil (it is very thorough at makeup removal).

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4 comment(s)  
 
November 1, 2007 12:30 PM, Blogger Colleen Shirazi said...

I went to dermatologists for some years, because of my adult acne. I found they were no different from other typical Western doctors...they don't emphasize prevention, only treatment, usually starting with prescription topicals, then going to prescription internal medications if the topicals don't work.

I'm not sure what the dermatologist reference in the article is supposed to mean, the only "instantaneous" acne treatment I know of from dermatologists is cortisone shots. Even those don't actually work instantaneously, they just speed up the healing process.

It's funny but I've turned it over in my mind, I'm one of the only people I know who went from having full blown adult acne to having next to perfect skin. There were years when I felt as if every single pore on my face either had been a pimple, was a pimple, or was going to be a pimple tomorrow, it was insane. After a while you realize that much of what people tell you is theory rather than practice. Theory or sales.

 
November 1, 2007 3:07 PM, Blogger Dain said...

"This business is a racket."
"What business isn't?"
--From my other favorite TV show, Six Feet Under (rent it on youtube, you won't regret it! reaaaally funny and thought-provoking, about a family in LA that owns a funeral home)

 
November 1, 2007 6:38 PM, Blogger Colleen Shirazi said...

It crossed my mind at one point, that preventing acne could be seen as counterproductive by the people selling acne treatments. The problem is if you have acne, that's when you don't care about making money off it, you just don't want to spend the rest of your life with pimples all over your face.

 
November 4, 2007 3:10 AM, Blogger Dain said...

Rent it on NETFLIX! Dur.

 
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Culture Notes: California music part 3 (Northern)
Posted by Colleen Shirazi, 2:11 AM (Eastern)

The most fun section, even though we have fewer bands than SoCal. :)

As far as I know, Chris Isaak is the most famous person from Stockton. This video was regarded as pretty hot when it came out although if you look at it, nothing is actually shown, only suggested. Featuring Danish super model Helena Christensen.


Wicked Game

Based on her hit records, I can't claim to be a great fan of Janis Joplin, because there her voice sounds too rough. Yet the non-hit songs made toward the end of her short life can be extraordinary. Makes you wonder what she would have done had she lived longer. (Joplin was from Texas of course, but is heavily associated with San Francisco.)


Maybe

Green Day have been around forever--twenty years--but, like Jon Stewart, what made them suddenly come to the fore was our country's swerve to the right.


Green Day - Holiday (Live Video)

Carlos Santana, who needs no introduction.


Santana - Maria Maria [TheWraith]

And finally, Huey Lewis and the News. One of my favorite Bay Area tunes of all time.


Huey Lewis and The News - I Want A New Drug

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3 comment(s)  
 
October 31, 2007 6:18 PM, Blogger Dain said...

Ever hear Joplin sing "Son of a Preacher Man"? No grittiness there. She wasn't very careful about her voice, but she was a fantastic guitarist.

 
November 1, 2007 12:35 PM, Blogger Colleen Shirazi said...

I didn't know she did "Son of a Preacher Man"...what I've heard was the Dusty Springfield version. As I say I'm not much of a fan. I was surprised at what turned up on Youtube though, it was much better than Joplin's more commercial releases.

 
November 3, 2007 5:13 AM, Blogger Audrey_H said...

Hehe, Huey Lewis & The News.. I once went to a party with the bass player and the drummer. Nice people. The bass player reminded me a little of Seinfeld's Kramer though :-D

Great band, a lot of good songs - "If this is it", "Do you believe in love"...

 
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An Array Ecumenical: The Magnificent Coat
Posted by Dain, Tuesday, October 30, 2007 1:51 PM (Eastern)


At this point, I should extort you to buy a black wool coat, or alternatively a khaki trench coat which is lighter to wear. They will not, it is true, do badly by you. But I highly encourage you to spend the time and money on finding one that will become your signature, even if it's as subtle as shearling edging on minimalist black (upper left) or a vibrant color on a severe military style (upper right).

Outerwear isn't really like other clothing. Unless you are the sort of woman who collects coats as slavishly as you collect everything else, you only really don a coat when it's cold, and switches generally have practical rather than sartorial motivations (the exception being an evening coat). If you're gonna buy one coat for yourself, find one that is truly distinctive. No matter how you dress underneath it, The Magnificent Coat automatically telegraphs an innate sense of style.

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5 comment(s)  
 
October 31, 2007 12:51 AM, Blogger Colleen Shirazi said...

I agree with you...a coat is very important. The thing is, you're going to be wearing it year after year; coats tend to not be trendy.

I collect coats more slavishly than clothes actually. Coats are virtually forever; a good one will last you the rest of your life.

 
October 31, 2007 1:43 PM, Blogger Dain said...

Well, by "slavish" I mean above a dozen. Who needs 15 coats, even 10?

I think the best way to defy a trend is not to go for something faceless but very, very individualistic. The kind of thing that other people recognize as "your coat". If it's your signature, it cannot, no matter what it is, go out of style.

 
November 1, 2007 1:04 PM, Blogger Colleen Shirazi said...

I agree with that. I do think a coat should be recognizable somehow as yours, rather than a sort of generic item.

I actually see nothing wrong with owning ten coats. If it gets to the Imelda point, where you have tons of something for the sake of having tons of something, well, I'm not sure I see the point in that.

The weather here...and in Washington, but especially here...is wildly changeable, even throughout the day, or from place to place. When I lived in the City, you could take a bus from one part of town where you'd need an actual coat, to, say, the Mission, where it would suddenly be sweating hot. You find yourself wearing jackets more than you would on the East Coast, or at least that's my recollection. There it's either hot and it stays hot, or else it's cold and you wear your coat and take it off whenever you get where you're going to.

But here, you don't always need a real winter coat...I have some, and have used them, you do need to own at least one, contrary to how people think of the weather in California. More often you find yourself wearing jackets of varying weights and levels of water resistance. I've got everything from down to the kind of thing I wore in Washington (water resistant, longer length, hooded) to leather...there is something of a cult of the jacket here, but it's based on the climate.

 
November 1, 2007 3:03 PM, Blogger Dain said...

Well, I think it's important for women in this hyperconsumerist day and age to consider what they need and weigh it against what they want. But I do think that should be a personal decision. I myself am using this series as a sort of closet minimalism, so with my mother's trenchcoat from the 70s, my plaid wool coat, and some sorta down thing for when it's 10 below, I think that's enough.

 
November 1, 2007 6:49 PM, Blogger Colleen Shirazi said...

You're right about the hyperconsumerism...it becomes buying for the sake of buying. Or buying cos you don't have anything better to do. We've become a nation of importers and retailers. The whole buy-buy-buy thing...not a good way to sustain an economy.

Plus the quality of what's in the shops has declined to the point that things fall apart...meaning, more buying.

It only now occurred to me how odd the weather is out here; I've become used to it. In some ways it's temperate, we don't get deep freezes...a couple of times of year it does freeze, but lightly. In the summer it's dry so you're not bathing in humidity and high heat.

But day to day, the weather here can be as hard to live in as the weather in "four seasons" places, if only because you can't really adjust to it.

 
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The Mnemonic Sense: Bohemian
Posted by Dain, 12:44 PM (Eastern)

Above: This was my favorite movie for some time, for the visuals and dialogue, quite gritty. How can you argue with Edward Norton (my favorite actor), Brad Pitt, and Helena Bonham Carter?

Spices and woods are often the dark horse to florals' vaunted radiance, but they have a long history in perfumery, from the gifts of the manger to more contemporary offerings from, say, Prada. Currently, I am using ETRO Ambra, but when that runs out, the possibilities are really exciting: Serge Lutens Ambre Sultan, Shiseido Bois de Femininté, Chanel Bois des Îles, Guerlain Mitsouko, L'Artisan Parfumeur Méchant Loup, or Robert Piguet Bandit?

These may be the only perfumes I need, but I need to do some research and play around with decants.

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Culture Notes: California music part 2 (California and...)
Posted by Colleen Shirazi, Monday, October 29, 2007 3:32 PM (Eastern)

From Burt Sugarman's Midnight Special, which was once next to the only way to watch musical performances (Friday Night Videos came later on).
California and England:


Fleetwood Mac - Rhiannon Midnight Special 1976

Though The Doors were formed in Los Angeles, Jim Morrison was born in Florida, and had something of a typical Navy brat's childhood, divided between the South and the West Coast.
California and Florida:


The Doors - Touch Me

Tito & Tarantula, behind Salma Hayek in From Dusk Till Dawn. This scene has been uploaded many times, with varying levels of quality. The best version includes the beginning of the vampire scenes hence I couldn't use it here. In this version, the audio is better than the picture, because this is a feature on music. It was a trade-off but anyway here it is.
California and Mexico:


Salma Hayek - Dancing in 'From Dusk Till Dawn' [1996]

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Montale Boise Vanille review
Posted by Colleen Shirazi, 2:24 PM (Eastern)

montale boise vanille

This was one of the two perfumes I bought a bottle of, after over a year of trying out various fragrances.

Boisé Vanillé is a bit unsung, relative to other Montale scents, and I myself find it a bit dry when worn alone. It's binary, like their Chypré - Fruité, Blue Amber, Intense Tiaré, where they take two notes--really only two--and render them perfectly. Whether you have use for this scent, therefore, depends entirely on how you feel about the two notes.

As it turns out, I can use a dry, non-sweet blend of woods and vanilla. The woods here...I get cedar, a bit, but not the usual sandalwood. Just a sort of generic wood, as if you had gone into a forest and cut into a random deciduous tree. It's a feeling of freshness but a lack of the sweetness associated with women's wood-based perfumes.

Along with this, a purity of vanilla, again without the typical sugary aspect.

On its own, I find this almost too masculine (and I can see this on a man, unlike many so-called unisex perfumes). It makes the perfect foil however for other perfumes, when you want to add a bit of customization. I feel anything sweeter wouldn't work for that purpose, but this blends seamlessly.

Aside from changing from an almost stupefyingly simple wood + vanilla beginning, into a more complex woods + vanilla accord, this is linear. Once it hits its stride, it stays exactly the same for hours and hours.

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2 comment(s)  
 
October 31, 2007 1:08 PM, Blogger Dain said...

I like that, sweet without saccharine. A good amber is like that.

 
November 1, 2007 6:53 PM, Blogger Colleen Shirazi said...

Montale Blue Amber is kind of neat...although it is simplistic. It's just amber and vanilla, at least to my nose. It doesn't have enough depth imo to be worn alone. But for what it is...it's a super strong, super dry amber and vanilla...it's not bad.

 
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An Array Ecumenical: The Refined Blazer
Posted by Dain, 1:15 PM (Eastern)


I considered the suit, but unless your work environment is particularly conservative, the majority of your wardrobe, if chosen wisely, should suffice for all but the most casual and formal situations. In my mind, The Refined Blazer is a structured and tailored layer, rather than a top or outerwear, though I personally prefer the softness of The Soigné Cardigan for my layering needs (I have a pinstriped cream blazer, almost tux-like, from Stella McCartney, but if I ever find a softer, fluid tweed in sea blue, I'll add that too).

When it comes to pairings, it can be tricky. The Fancy Trouser nearly always works, but many can be dressed down with The Blue Jean. The classics, like the top two examples, fare better with a pencil skirt, but a prep-school jacket (lower left) is nicer with an a-line (like a pleated skirt). With dresses, something boyish is best, which is why I have included one in leather (lower right, a denim jacket would work too).

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Culture Notes: California music part 1 (random)
Posted by Colleen Shirazi, 2:06 AM (Eastern)

At first I had the idea of organizing this chronologically, starting with the surf music of the early 60's, then the acid stuff of the late 60's, The Eagles, Linda Ronstadt, The Go-Go's, No Doubt, yadda yadda...it's endless though. Hence, it's probably best to just get into it and follow the road.

They still played a lot of 50's and early 60's music on the radio when I was a kid, so I remember these songs quite clearly.


Ventures - Walk Don't Run - 45 rpm



The Beach Boys - Don't Worry Baby

Best cover: