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Beauty Notes: Serge Lutens Louve Review


Posted by Dain, Thursday, January 17, 2008 7:53 AM (Eastern)

A detail from Raphael's Sistine Madonna, usually called "Angeli", very beautifully rendered, but nowadays quite the cliché—google and thou shalt find, someone who photoshopped (o god, tech verbs) beer and cigarettes into this image, more than the actual image itself. It is not at all Raphael's fault that the Baroque made his cherubs a prerequisite spacefiller.


Now, I really like Louve, in spite of my declamations on gourmands of late (only because it's so hard to find anything else). The name is a little... she-wolf, my eye. It seems strangely repetitive to do another Turkish delight perfume, but it still makes for the most unusual gourmand, compared to the ubiquitous vanilla. There is none of the sensual decadence of Rahät Loukoum, replaced by a silky delicacy, I rather enjoy The Non-Blonde's assertion that this could be snow-choked Narnia in The Lion, the Witch, and the Wardrobe. There is more rose, quite a lot less syrupy cherry, a bit of candied orange, and the almond note comes off as the milky nut rather than caramelized, all distinction blurred by a shimmering veil of soft, powdery white musk. Rahät Loukoum requires some confidence, because it has a bit of attitude behind that aggressive sweetness, but this is superbly balanced, far quieter, and more finished, so I think it has much more universal appeal. I have not, however, tried the cult favorite, People of the Labyrinths Luctor et Emergo.

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