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The Lipstick Page Forums Beauty & Fashion Blog
Fashion Notes: The Art and Innovation of Yves Saint Laurent


Posted by Dain, Wednesday, January 02, 2008 12:54 AM (Eastern)

Those who work with fashion or cosmetics often bemoan, rather defensively I might add, that people don't take them seriously. Well, of course not. Fashion isn't serious. It is important, a celebration of beauty and taste, but when you take all the enjoyment out of it, what's the point?

For one thing, I used to maintain that fashion and makeup is an art, but now I am not so sure. Even at its most aesthetic, and sometimes most unwearable, fashion is not art as life but life as art, an elaboration on the functional. In painting and music and literature there is no direct relationship between medium and subject, when one gazes at the Sistine Chapel it is not the paint and mortar that we see, though that is exactly what we see. Yet, even dining on quails financière in couture is still hot food and some clothes.

Still, I daresay some of the same elements exist in fashion as they do in "high" art. Innovation, for one. Consider Yves Saint Laurent's 1962 show, which, being a vintage clip, only gives you a sense of the beauty of the clothes:
People talk about Chanel and Dior as groundbreakers, but really that title belongs to Paul Poiret, who singlehandedly ushered in modern fashion, Coco just tagged along, while Dior's fashion, in spite of all the magic, represented a regression—they might have called them girdles, but it strikes me as a corset in manmade materials. So it is not that Saint Laurent is original, but he had a fresh and unique take, for fashion seems to evolve faster than humanity, at times.

Even fabled houses may take missteps, or degrade. Have you ever seen anything more tacky than this commercial for the Elle perfume? Coco Rocha! Eyeliner! Obligatory tux (YSL signature) and cleavage (marketing signature)! Killer shoes! Pink graffiti! Femme rock! EW! Eau de Shark Tank!

But here is the "Manifesto" campaign with Gisele Bündchen for the previous season (I guess we are in Resort now), a little pretentious, perhaps, but it is still Yves Saint Laurent, never too revealing, just a hint of enticement, the quintessential Parisian cool.

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