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Posted by Dain, Thursday, February 28, 2008 4:02 PM (Eastern)
Mary Cassatt, Mary Sara Holding a Cat (1908).
I am not anti-citrus, I'm just disinterested. I have nothing but admiration for nature, in citrus she explores the balance between sour and sweet: the flash of lemon, bergamot's bitter twinge, pneumatic grapefruit, orange's piquant sunshine, and heart-racingly delicious blood orange. Citrus is better represented in perfumery than most fruits, so I'm not averse to them for infidelity, only that light and refreshing isn't my thing. L'Eau d'Hadrien, smartly accented by balsamic herbs, seems to transport you straight to the Mediterranean, where citrus trees grow as casually as maples in my backyard. And then there is the stalwart commercial Light Blue, which smells like a smile in a deeply tanned face in the public imagination and like lemon sugar in actuality. And for a time I contemplated the expansive and crisp Un Jardin Sur La Nil. There, my experience pretty much ends.
Nevertheless, I was curious about Theorema, for in spite of the fact that it has been discontinued, it retains a very loyal and devoted cult following. So I expected "to admire and appreciate, but not find desirable", but I actually want a bottle (so much easier to get than Bois et Fruits). There's a sparkling orange note in the opening, which swirls lusciously into cream, delicately spiced with cinnamon and nutmeg, as rich yet airy as a mousse. Hints of rose and jasmine restrain it from the overfoody trespasses of inferior gourmands. As it dries down, sandalwood, amber, and musk rise up and the perfume becomes denser. In spite of the description, it is surprisingly subdued, the sillage keeps close to the skin and its tenacity is less than desirable; nevertheless, what makes Theorema remarkable is how gentle and soothing it is. The ultimate comfort scent.
Labels: beauty notes, fendi, perfume reviews
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