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· February 17, 2008 10:01 PM by
Colleen Shirazi
· February 18, 2008 12:53 PM by
Dain
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Posted by Dain, Thursday, February 14, 2008 3:57 AM (Eastern)
Jean-Auguste-Dominique Ingres, Le Grand Odalisque (1814).
Amber is admirably neither the lone wolf (lavender, vetiver) nor the perpetual understudy (orange blossom—yes, I know, soliflores, but so disappointingly fleeting, hardly a perfume at all). It is dimensional enough to function quite marvelously on its own, and yet has the social graces to be a team player, sweetening the juice in a way pleasant to behold. I am not, however, quite sure about its treatment in Ambre Russe. It is most definitely a niche interpretation of the heavy-handed variety (e.g. Serge Lutens, Montale): vodka and prunes dose this thick, hazy amber. If ETRO Ambra is quiet, for such an intense note, Ambre Russe is definitely garrulous. In the former, I see a Mediterranean woman of unspoken intensity (the "wild widow" in Zorba the Greek), but the latter is a New York harridan with strong opinions and an even stronger accent. A matter of taste, perhaps, but this is a vulgar perfume.
Labels: beauty notes, parfum d'empire, perfume reviews
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February 17, 2008 10:01 PM,
You might like Montale's Blue Amber? It's an exceedingly simple perfume, done well. It was a toss up between this and Boisé Vanillé for me...pure dry amber and vanilla, or pure dry woods and vanilla.
February 18, 2008 12:53 PM,
I love amber, but my new love is leather. ; )
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