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Posted by Dain, Wednesday, February 27, 2008 10:45 AM (Eastern)
I have tested so many now, and at first it is a bit like when you first try a vaporizer—you're so stoned you just fumble around the universe looking for a clue—but in the way of all addictions, be it perfume or pot, the initial chaos subsides into jaded acclimatization. Nowadays, the most exciting substance in my life is strong coffee, and likewise my perfume wardrobe is really taking on some clarity, though its final shape is still unclear. Slated for certain purchase are Caron En Avion and Christian Dior Diorissimo; Serge Lutens Bois et Fruits is a more uncertain candidate. Given my well documented distaste for redundancy, they don't smell much like each other—a seriously complicated powdery/floral/spicy leather chypre, an unabashedly feminine lily-of-the-valley soliflore, and a polished cedar set off by sparkling fruit notes—but they all seem to possess uncontested elegance, radiant wit, and more than a little reservation. Though I gravitate towards with distinct, strong characters (which leaves most fruits, gourmands, citrus, and aquatics outside of my estimation), not for me is an effusive, showy perfume like Jean Patou Joy nor a dark and moody thing like ETRO Messe de Minuit, two perfumes with character I admire greatly but... But? Wouldn't buy. My taste runs towards the intellectually complicated but emotionally serene—if scent is supposed to telegraph our personalities to others, that must be my fantasy of myself (though not necessarily the reality =P).My choices surprise me, actually. Not the Caron, of course, I would have figured as much. En Avion is pure perfume kismet. If I had to live on one perfume alone, a signature scent, this would be it. 25 mL for $180? I don't begrudge it. But lily of the valley? I always thought myself a tuberose girl, less fussy and unbuttoned. Diorissimo, though more delicate and refined, a touch honeyed, a touch green, a touch earthy, is no less womanly. For this reason, white florals are perfect for romantic occasions, but they are great for warmer weather, too, if you're not inclined to wear citrus. And Bois et Fruits surprises me most of all. I hate fruit in perfumes, that thin, artificial smell, but I adore this one, it is so gentle and light: the lightest wood and tangy, wild fruits smoothed over with an overdose of Iso E Super and a hint of musk. It makes me think of honey.
Is something missing? Hm, I don't know. I'll keep Parfum Sacré in there, for its warmth, as the others (even Bois et Fruits) are pretty cool and dry.
On a slightly related note, since I'm hashing about perfumes, apparently, there has been a PDF copy of Parfums: Le Guide, the 1994 version, online, in the original French.
Labels: caron, dior, perfume, serge lutens, the mnemonic sense
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