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Posted by Dain, Thursday, March 13, 2008 2:53 AM (Eastern) Notice how Dietrich steals her lover's cigarette, a small, suggestive gesture that hints at greater intimacy. A small aside, Dietrich actually wore this scent. I was first introduced to Tabac Blond amidst such wonders as Féminité du Bois and Coup de Fouet, and I found it initially unpleasant, and yet I would return to it again and again from some unknown compulsion. My previous review works as well as anything I might dream up now, as I took some care then, so... Tabac Blond today is as avant garde as it must have been 1919. It is positively bipolar, vibrating between the conceptual and the wearable as if (in other, lesser perfumes) they were not diametrically opposed. Mood the First: tobacco reigns over the top notes, ashing quickly, and before long, the presence of civet suggests the fetid smell of an unclean ashtray. It is quite dirty, animalic, sweaty. I smoke, so I do not discover romanticism as others have, but realism; it is a marvel to find the unpleasant pleasures of a cigarette so accurately rendered, all the way down to the dead nonchalance. Mood the Second: Then, so seamlessly you almost fail to notice, it changes into the absolute heart and soul of a leather scent. The spice of carnation takes over, and underneath hums a leather note so rich and buttery smooth, a combination that is unexpected, striking, and so very right. I also smell iris, amber, and vanilla, which impart a warm, golden glow throughout. Tabac Blond is dense and dark and infinitely interesting. Tabac Blond is quite soft in spite of the strange theatrics—a perfume with the most unusual charisma that runs dangerously close to alienating you. Next to Chanel No. 5 (floral aldehyde) and Mitsouko (chypre), Tabac Blond is probably one of the most iconic fragrances ever made. Labels: beauty notes, caron, perfume reviews |
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