La Perla spring 2008 ad. My first reaction
when I saw this: what's in those bottles?

              If you already have good skin, here is all you need:

1. a gentle, effective cleanser
   It should rinse off cleanly, removing dirt, oil, and makeup (the effective part), but without leaving an oily film, or alternatively, stripping (the gentle part). Additionally, if it exfoliates a little, so much the better.


2. a no-frills, penetrating but fast-absorbing moisturizer
   The plainer the better; the instinct for miracle creams is well mined by the industry, but they are absolutely nonsensical. La Mer, in fact, is quite a heavy but plain moisturizer (in spite of what they say about it). Unless you have very oily or very dry skin, a good moisturizer should not sit atop the skin like an occlusive layer (that signifies that it is too rich for you) nor should it leave the skin taut and tight (not rich enough).


3. a mild exfoliant
   Though I find my cleanser adequate in this respect, find yourself a good scrub, acid-laced serum, vitamin c treatment, mask or whatever and use it one to three times a week. It is necessary maintenance: rids flakes and dullness, and keep clogged pores at bay.


4. obligatory sunscreen mention
   Though I don't touch the stuff, I hate how it feels.

              If you wear moderate to heavy eye makeup:

5. add makeup remover
   It should remove all traces of makeup in an instant. Unless your eye makeup removes easily with your normal cleanser, then don't waste your elbow grease by tugging at such delicate skin. However, if you use an oil or balm cleanser, this may not be necessary.

              If your skin varies with the seasons:

6. find yourself a "treatment" that hydrates without weight
   One you can wear without discomfort in sultry summer humidity, and when winter comes, layers easily under your regular moisturizer for an extra boost of moisture; two light layers are more hydrating than one heavy cream. It may be a traditional watery gel/serum/essence or an aromatic face oil, only take care to eschew silicones if possible, which impart a nice texture but crowd out the beneficial and more expensive ingredients (silicones are the liars of the cosmetic world). If you have oily skin, this might do as your moisturizer.

              If you have problem skin:

7. here you bring out the treatments
   Dark circles and scarring? Hydroquinine and licorice extract are common treatments. Puffy eyes? An eye gel, preferably cooled, may help, as will reduced sodium in your diet. Shine? I've heard (my skin has never been very oily) that certain oils, contrary to reason, are very helpful. Acne? Salicylic acid, benzyl peroxide, tea tree oil, clays, calendula extract, camphor, sulfur, vitamin c, various alpha hydroxies, etc., depending on the type and extent of the affliction. Dull, flakey skin? A gentle exfoliant, vitamin C, and a good moisturizer. Sensitivity? Aloe vera, cortisone, and calendula extract are traditional. Aging? Get over it. You'll just look older worrying about it.

              And what about... eye cream? toner? masks?
Marketing gimmicks. Eye creams are usually similar stuff to the corresponding face cream, with richer emollients and textures, thrown into a smaller jar and labeled with a steeper price. Unless you have specific issues you wish to treat, your normal moisturizer will do just as well. Toners were once necessary in that age-old three-step routine, sandwiched between greasy cleanser that did not rinse off well and an equally unctuous moisturizer, to strip away that first for the second. Nowadays, there are many cleansers that perform their duties without leaving any residue behind, leaving toners high and dry. After all, back then, we did not know that sunscreens were so vital, either. And masks are all about the unnecessary step, the extra feel of treating yourself well, if they suit you, then by all means, use one.

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