Angelina Jolie in St. John's spring 2008 ad campaign.

1. UNDEREYE CONCEALER
   Even if you have flawless skin, chances are, you've got a bit of darkness along the inner corner of your eye, and everyone, practically everyone, looks just a little more refreshed with a little concealer. It's a subtle difference that makes a big difference. Choose one that is creamy enough to blend easily, so you needn't waste time blending and tugging at delicate eye skin (and use your ring finger, it applies the least force), but isn't so greasy it "settles" into fine lines or slips off by the end of the day. Look for one that is just slightly lighter than your skin tone, with yellow undertones if your undereye circles are blue, peachy if they are brownish.
2. THE BLUSH ABSOLUTE PRINCIPLE
   This is really important: find yourself a shade of blush that is perfect. You could wear any ole brown shadow or pink lipstick, but this is one color that is worth the trials and tribulations of the Holy-Grail quest. It makes you look fresh and healthy in a really indefinable but holistic way, and if you find the right shade of blush, you really don't need another. When you don't have time, you can just slap it on in 15 seconds and look presentable. I have written a more comprehensive guide to choosing the right blush, which you may peruse at your leisure.
3. THE YLBB, or, Your Lips But Better
   A lipcolor that is slightly richer than your natural lip tone is arguably the easiest and most perfect cosmetic. If you have trouble finding one, you can always look to your blush for reference; chances are, a color that matches or intensifies that perfect shade of blush will work equally well on the lips. It is a color you can always depend on to be appropriate for all occasions.
4. DEFINING THE LASHLINE
   It may be a swipe of mascara or a smudgy bit of eyeliner, or both. Techniques range from the subtle (tightlining) to the dramatic (liquid liner). You may prefer a traditional eyeliner, or just mascara, but my favorite method is to find the the creamiest, inkiest black eye pencil to smoosh at the base of the lashes on the inner rim, which creates the optical illusion of thick lashes, and a coat or two of equally black mascara. Sometimes I add a mink-brown kohl for a bit of smolder, or a fleshtone shimmer wash to provide some neutral contrast against the black, but these are all thematically related—emphasis on the lashline.
5. DON'T NEGLECT YOUR BROWS
   Everyone's needs differ, but a good set of brows is crucial. They give balance to the structure of the face. A symmetrical face may seem off if the brows are not well placed.
6. PRETTY EYE SHADOW
   I think every woman needs at least one colorful eyeshadow, something a little adventurous that makes her eyes really pop. Not strong, vivid color, something relatively subdued but still not quite neutral. On blue eyes, I think a pinkish-copper metallic is especially striking, on green, a soft mauve is always reliable, on brown, I think olives (if you are warm) and lavenders (if you are cool) are excellent choices, but of course there is more than one possibility.
7. DRAMATIC LIP
   You can go dark and bright, with a red, a plum, even magenta or coral, or if you cannot pull off a bold lip, you can always try the passive-aggressive approach, with a nude. I find that the best accent to a dramatic lip is a wash of some subdued, eye-popping color (see above), so these two go hand in hand.
8. CONTRAST EYE
   How do you wear an unnatural color? Not a halfway color like lilac or red, but one that only occurs on the skin of aliens. The answer is: surprisingly easily. A direct contrast, usually a color that's right opposite your perfect shade of blush, is strangely flattering, more so than a slightly mismatched neutral. The contrast to coral and peach? Lime and emerald. The contrast to pinks and reds? Blues, teals, and suchlike. A plum? Try silver frost. If you're still dubious, wear it as eyeliner only.
9. TOOLS OF THE TRADE
   I highly recommend Shu Uemura's Compact Brush Set ($55). It is an incredible deal and the quality is the best you can buy. It is missing a few things—an eyeliner brush, tweezers, eyelash curler—but is otherwise perfect for most of your needs.
10. EUPHORIC FRAGRANCE
    You should have at least one perfume that you wholeheartedly adore, one that sends you straight into ecstasies, and one you can turn to when you know not what else to wear.

1. Clé de Peau Concealer
2. Good Skin Pink Lotus Blush (NARS Desire would do as well)
3. NARS Gothika Lip Gloss
4. Too Faced Liquid Lava Extreme Black Gloss & L'Oréal Carbon Black Voluminous Mascara
5. Kevyn Aucoin The Precision Brow Pencil
6. Chanel Lilas Soft Touch Eye Shadow & MAC Teddy Eye Kohl
7. Shu Uemura Rouge Unlimited #270
8. L'Oréal HIP Sassy Eye Duo
9. Shu Uemura Compact Brush Set
10. Guerlain Mitsouko

Labels: beauty notebook, minimalism, shu uemura