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The Lipstick Page Forums Beauty & Fashion Blog
Beauty Notes: Caron En Avion Review


Posted by Dain, Wednesday, April 30, 2008 5:36 PM (Eastern)

"Are you threatening me with legal action, Mr. Fabian?" STOMP. Bette
Davis is no pin-up, not by a long shot, but god, what drama. Definitely
the woman for carnation's contradictory nature of fire and ice.

En Avion seems to belong to a Proustian reminiscence—it is antique, dust-covered, and ornate. Perfumes are creatures of their time, and this Art Deco piece is no exception, though it was inspired by the modern and adventurous spirit of women aviators. Nowadays, it may come off as dated and over-powdered, but all the same it is my favorite (thus far) of the Daltroff creations, which is saying much.

En Avion is a handsome woman who's never been the least bit pretty, much like Davis herself, but she's lived a full life. There's an extremity of strength and elegance, and you may find yourself alienated, unable to keep up with her potency, her drama, her intellect, her depth, her complexity, but she doesn't give a damn—it's really that confident a perfume. Caught up in nostalgia, En Avion is always more than it seems, a reluctant revelation of notes. You've really got to labor to pick apart the composition, and in my experience it's not always the same: an intensely powdered, darkly mossy, leathery floriental, a delicate bloom of orange blossom, shouldered violently aside by clove-studded carnations, the melancholy centerpiece, smoothly blended so it does not quite dominate, supported by powdery roses and honeyed violets, and seen through a fog of incense smoke (sandalwood, oppoponax). It's the absolute antithesis of bland and fresh, dressed to the nines and doused in scotch and firing off witticisms without pause, which is essentially my idea of The Grand Life. You'd have to have a taste for potent perfumes to enjoy it, but for those who desire a lighter interpretation, Jean Patou Normandie bears a close similitude. En Avion has a pronounced leathery umbrage, while Normandie seems to focus around the carnation, watered by salt tears, beside the grey and lonely sea.

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