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Beauty Notes: Caron Pois de Senteur (de Chez Moi) Review
Beauty Notes: Caron Pois de Senteur (de Chez Moi) Review
Posted by Dain, Tuesday, April 08, 2008 6:26 AM (Eastern)
Grotesque, thy name is Bette Davis.
Compositionally, Pois de Senteur is the lesser sibling of Farnesiana, unusual soliflores that do not, really, smell like their namesakes. If there is sweet pea in this, and I seriously might be imagining it, it is a feint and dodge in the opening. From here on out, Pois de Senteur is Coco Mademoiselle's great grandmother—a mixture of florals, quite sweet—not transparent in the modern style, but swamped under a deluge of powder.
Our discussion on roses has not focused on soliflores (as I've said before, YSL Paris would be the best place to start) or even my favorite rose-based fragrance, Caron Parfum Sacré, but on perfumes where it plays a crucial role in the structure: the way it softens patchouli's distinctive bite in Voleur de Roses, playing a supporting role in spite of the name, or how it displays a cold, steel-sharp femininity in Chanel No. 19. Pois de Senteur, though softened by the more delicate aromas of hyacinth, lilac, and lily of the valley, highlights the fussiness of rose (think of tea roses) candied and powdered. Linden (a greenish indole) and hay throw it slightly from its prudish trajectory, but otherwise it smells like a Laura Ashley dress, and as it dries down, it grows ever sweeter, like gulping the last sip of your poorly stirred tea only to discover that the honey is all on the bottom. Its old-fashioned severity does distinguish it from contemporary gourmand-florals, but unless you adore powder, and seek one with greater depth, I'd pass it over for the more compelling, but similarly minded, Farnesiana.
Labels: beauty notes, caron, perfume reviews
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