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Posted by Dain, Wednesday, April 23, 2008 4:41 AM (Eastern)
I've avoided soliflores for a couple of reasons: I find it more compelling to navigate through a structure rather than dumbly follow a spotlight, and I don't particularly care for rose or jasmine or violet anyway. But I adore tuberose, I've made it my personal mission to seek them out in the past. But even as I acknowledge the subtle variations therin (decadent, buttery Creed Tubéreuse Indiana and gardenia-and-incense-laced Michael Kors are particular favorites), tuberose compositions show surprisingly little variance: you can dress it up (Fracas) or leave it nude (soliflore), which is why after all I've only chosen two tuberoses, Fracas and a soliflore. If neroli adds light to a composition's texture, then tuberose smothers heavy and deep, and you cannot hide from it.
Dominique Ropion had a simple goal for Carnal Flower, though it took eighteen months, ground-breaking technology, and 690 formulations: the living flower, not Fracas. And that's it. Go out and smell a tuberose. It's handled with great subtlety, and though I was originally unimpressed by the clarity of Carnal Flower, I've really grown to enjoy its lack of adornment: soft green spiciness, spongey white petals and a hint of pollen, and yes, the Juicy-Fruit accord.
Labels: beauty notes, frederic malle, perfume reviews
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