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Posted by Dain, Friday, April 11, 2008 6:51 AM (Eastern)
Found this at Perfume Shrine:
Frédéric Malle talking about perfume. It makes me reconsider Carnal Flower more seriously. I didn't like it at first—too one-dimensional, not really a perfumey perfume, as if there's something wrong with a soliflore—but I gave myself a long hard spritz last time at Barneys and I warmed up to it. I prefer seamless, complex structures with a holistic impact: I don't like how I can pick apart the notes in a Serge Lutens from a single dab on the wrist, but on the other hand, I really had to live with Parfum Sacré for a couple of years before I could write coherently on it. So if a perfume is focused on a single note, it's got be rich and multidimensional, like Ambre Sultan. Carnal Flower isn't so much an interpretation as the living flower itself, which is pretty cool, though I'd be torn between this and Diorissimo.
I really like how he says, "One thing that I find a bit amusing [internal Gallic chuckle] in this business is how people talk about orientals, and chypres, and colognes, and most of these people not knowing what on earth they are talking about. I try to classify fragrances in a much more simple, down to earth way: fresh, dense, sweet, and bitter. These are adjectives that people use to define what they like, and if people are honest with themselves..." I agree that all these conceptual families are extremely confusing and falsely helpful while Malle's distinctions are perfectly sensible (I guess it takes a professional perfume appreciator).
I wonder where my favorites fit in?
Labels: beauty notes, frederic malle, perfume
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