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Beauty Notes: Montale Sunset Flowers Review


Posted by Dain, Sunday, May 04, 2008 5:53 PM (Eastern)

The Hassan II Mosque in Casablanca, Morocco.

The shy and angelic violet, an aroma straight out of the heaving bosoms of repressed Victoriana, has a candied sweetness. Violets can be downright saccharine en soliflore (the cloying Caron Aimez-Moi), but within a composition they delicately sweeten, not unlike how the carnation adds a hint of spice, as an alternative to the heavy-handed syrup of vanilla. Half-gourmand and half-floral, it makes a brilliant bridge between melon and indolic jasmine in Frédéric Malle Le Parfum de Thérèse, while ionones, the synthetic molecule used to represent violet extract, brighten the polished cedar of supremely elegant Serge Lutens Bois de Violette (my choice for the best violet-centric perfume). Sunset Flowers, too, gains its sugary momentum from the violet. To my nose, this is a smellalike to Hermès Hiris, with creamier, more substantial blooms. Crisp leafy greens, a soupçon of lemon and an ozonic white musk keeps the heart of apple blossoms, violet, iris, and chamomile as fresh and dainty as possible, more dawn than sunset if you ask me. It would make a perfect present for a young girl—pretty as a summer dress, and not the least bit assuming.

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