The Lipstick Page Forums Beauty & Fashion Blog: March 2008 . thelipstickpage

All perfumes are representations. Even straightforward soliflores are not so straightforward in the making, because nature is either extremely expensive, or impossible to extract and must be reconstructed using synthetics, as is the case of lily of the valley. In that sense, you could easily argue that the contemporary Diorissimo, which smells of exactly like the delicate bells on a dewy May morning, is an abstract perfume. Chypres, first conceptualized by Coty in 1917, are intended to recreate the natural atmosphere of the woods, by pairing of bergamot with an oakmoss and ambergris base, usually bridged by a heart that may be floral, leathery, fruity, or green. In that case, Mitsouko is also an abstract, because I've yet to walk in a forest that smells like that. Let us take another lesson from history: 1921's Chanel No. 5, le monstre, the iconic floral aldehyde. Two divas, rose and jasmine, sing a duet, and aldehydes are like the bottles of champagne that make that old song splendid again. This impression is deliberate, as Coco Chanel explained, "I want to give women an artificial perfume." In comparison, Diorissimo is a kind of realism, easy to forget that the image is merely paint on canvas (hey, you smell like lily of the valley!), while Mitsouko might be impressionistic, wherein the paint itself is a crucial part of its expression (aldehyde C-14, the note like unripe peach flesh).

Nuit de Noël is assuredly abstract, but its abstraction is not physical but metaphysical, built around an idea, Christmas Night. However, it is not what you might expect; there are no pine needles nor no mulled cider. Nuit de Noël is in fact a very proper, proper perfume without a hint of kitsch, classical notes that exist in a million others: the perfect degree of aldehydes, just enough to smooth the distinction between rose, jasmine, iris, and ylang ylang, lain atop a creamy base of vetiver, sandalwood, vanilla, and oakmoss. A million other perfumes. And yet I sit here—sniffing, marveling—let me tell you, Nuit de Noël is something else: dreamy and refined, lightly floral-sweet-powdery but absolutely seamless, so restful, like the diffusion of golden light from a fire, warm and comforting. In a rare instance of accurate copy, Caron describes this "en hommage à toutes les mères, tel un hymne sacré à la maternité" (in homage of all mothers, as a sacred hymn to maternity). The final word in comfort scents.

Ah, Caron. You tempt me sorely, as ever.

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Labels: beauty notes, caron, perfume reviews

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Posted by Dain, 1:06 AM (Eastern)

It's true, Jesus was not a white man. It says so in the Bible.

Comme de Garçons' eponymous perfume line is hailed as one of the most conceptual houses, and certainly if you wander into its avant-garde gardens expecting something like the orchestral formality of Guerlinade, then you might be shocked. But then, one must ask the question: what exactly is an abstract perfume?

For now, I'll opine this much: they still have to smell good. Most of the perfumes I've chosen for this series tend to be very divisive—love or hate. There are so many points at which a perfume may be considered abstract: the image it creates in the mind of the consumer (L'Artisan Parfumeur Dzing! and tomorrow's Nuit de Noël), by using molecules that smell strange, unnatural, or synthetic (Le Labo Patchouli 24, Alexander McQueen Kingdom, or Il Profumi Musc Bleu), and finally, the compositionally abstract: Angel's eerie juxtaposition of edible (dark and rich) and inedible (cold and blue) elements, imitated by BVLGARI Blv Notte. Comme de Garçons, the original eau de parfum, is in this last category. Mark Buxton, the nose, was given no brief, no directive whatsoever, in its creation. The result is something thickly powdery-narcotic: spicy-green sandalwood incense in a carved cedarwood box, a slightly honeyed sweetness, and hints of unwashed skin from cumin. Does it "[work] like a medicine, [behave] like a drug", as Rei Kawakubo described it?

Hrm. I'd simply call it: the most interesting incense perfume, as Shalimar is to vanilla. Its unabashed spiciness is not unlike Caron Coup de Fouet (which I prefer, I personally don't care for incense), with a raw, sweaty note that takes it in a compelling direction.

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Labels: beauty notes, comme de garcons, perfume reviews

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Posted by Dain, Saturday, March 29, 2008 8:46 PM (Eastern)

It's not exactly Hendrix, but it's far catchier.

If it true, as they say, that perfume is an art, then the classical giants (Coty, Guerlain, Chanel, Caron, et al.) have claimed the largest share of the finite creative space, leaving niche contemporaries to fight over the crumbs. Now, I'm not entirely convinced of this... perfume is a consumable, and the perfume industry is a business first and foremost, no matter how queer and metaphoric. Nevertheless, almost everyone agrees that Thierry Mugler Angel is a contemporary original, an abstract gourmand, space-age chocolate confectionery. So original, in fact, that everyone saw fit to copy it, thus ushering in an age of sweet.

Blv Notte is one such copycat. It's is clearly inspired by Angel, wrapping its dark and velvety chocolate heart within layers of crystalline, iris-laced musk, but has lost Angel's divisive edginess: on me, it smells exactly like cat piss, but on the right woman it is nothing short of a marvel. Blv Notte is more of a crowd pleaser, a commercial take on the abstract gourmand, and no less than three of my friends have sniffed and bought.

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Labels: beauty notes, bvlgari, perfume reviews

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Posted by Dain, Friday, March 28, 2008 2:17 PM (Eastern)

After four years, we must all bid the fondest of goodbyes to our beloved webmaster, Colleen, who not only designed this entire site, but has kept this site running smoothly as possible. Due to contractual obligations, she will no longer be available as tech guru, but will remain a visitor of The Lipstick Page Forums. I must thank her personally for all the wonderful, tireless work she has done, and the great friendship she has given me, and wish her the best on her new job!

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Labels: administrative, tech

4 comment(s)

March 28, 2008 8:19 PM, Colleen Shirazi said...

Thanks!

That almost makes up for replacing the "boy meat market" video with Ann Coulter...though the latter embodies a raging headache, I suppose. lol

March 29, 2008 12:12 AM, ~Joy~ said...

I'm sorry to hear that. You've done a brilliant job here. Good luck in your new job!

March 29, 2008 5:12 PM, chez said...

WHAT?!!
Oh man, it's the end of an era!!!

New job?
Well, congrats!! PM or email me and fill me in with the grand details sometime.
Carol

April 3, 2008 2:04 AM, Colleen Shirazi said...

Thanks ladies...well, I will still pop in here. I've been with the Lipstick Page too long to ever really leave it. I'm looking forward to starting the job though. That should be interesting (it's programming).

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Posted by Dain, 12:57 PM (Eastern)

There are few things quite as rarefied as the world of wine, the Guerlain of liquor. Here is a relaxed, easygoing way to serve this most pretentious of elixirs: this handmade, recycled glass carafe and stemless glasses ($196), melted in a wind-powered electric furnace and tinted gently with the rosy fingers of dawn.

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Labels: fantasy web find of the day, justin porter

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Posted by Dain, Thursday, March 27, 2008 3:38 PM (Eastern)

Ok, so I have a dirty little secret: I don't use sunscreen. The slimy texture of it, and the way it always smells like a forgotten beach towel rediscovered in November. Yes, the dermatologists and the harridans in beauty magazines grate on about the deep and profound necessity of sun protection... but still it's like spreading Elmer's glue on my face. Besides, I'm essentially nocturnal.

Saffron Rouge sells magical products, truly. Santaverde is yet another hyper-botanical line I had never even heard of, using aloe vera instead of water as the base for every product, and I quote: "To ensure that the Aloe used is as fresh and pure as possible, Santaverde grows its very own certified organic Aloe Vera on their plantation located in the southern tip of Spain. Each Aloe leaf is hand-selected to ensure the plant is in pristine condition. The fresh leaves are then hand-processed and carefully evaluated for quality and pureness. The result is flawless raw material and active nutrients for each one of their products." I picked up a sample (Saffron Rouge also adds free samples with your order) of their sunscreen in idle curiosity, but whatever, everyone's got their little angle, right?

I mean, it's $69, but it's fantastic: smooth and fragrant as milk sprinkled with fairy dust, extremely comfortable and lightweight to wear. Flawless aloe vera from Spain? Yes, with titanium dioxide, jojoba oil, squalane, shea butter, macadamia oil, kukuinut oil, and white lily extract (but it's not oily or heavy). Where's my credit card?*

* Just kidding. No more spending for now.

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Labels: beauty notes, santaverde, skin

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March 27, 2008 7:19 PM, Colleen Shirazi said...

In California, you don't have a choice about sunscreen. When I first came out here, I just fried...it was hard to find facial sunscreens in those days. Ah, but the prices now. rolls eyes

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Posted by Dain, 3:09 PM (Eastern)

Sorry to switch on you after the fact, but
this clip better represents my reaction.

There are, no doubt, those who like a perfume that smells "fresh and clean", that conditioned response to synthetic white musks. If you are, you'll love Musc Bleu, it's the quintessence of fresh, clean laundry detergent. However, I... there are two strains of perfumery that I loathe, and the first is a vile and fake saccharine-fruity-floral, best exemplified by Bond No. 9 Chinatown, and the second is something relentlessly, antiseptically clean, which until now never knew its avatar until I met Musc Bleu. Even an overdose of aldehydes is too soapy for me, as in the case of Paco Rabanne Métal. One raging headache later, I wonder blearily why everything I like seems to last five minutes while this synthetic nightmare clings so tenaciously even to the tips of my fingers.

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Labels: beauty notes, il profumi, perfume reviews

3 comment(s)

March 27, 2008 7:15 PM, Colleen Shirazi said...

That video's nice! I heard the song on the radio, a bit. Good pop music.

It's odd, a lot of perfumes turn soapy on me. I've never had to look for "a clean, soapy perfume." It's a good thing...though I know what you mean. Something that tries to smell detergent-y is gonna give you a headache.

March 28, 2008 12:50 PM, Dain said...

I should've chosen a clip of Ann Coulter.

April 3, 2008 2:06 AM, Colleen Shirazi said...

Oh no you didn't. lol

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Posted by Dain, Wednesday, March 26, 2008 2:21 PM (Eastern)

Plus, all the South Park episodes are live now.

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Labels: culture notes, tv

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April 3, 2008 2:09 AM, Colleen Shirazi said...

Not bad...I don't agree with it all, but some valid points.

What I remember Bill Maher for...he was joking about the 72 virgins a guy is supposed to get in the afterlife. He said, "I don't know about you guys, but, about three or four virgins in, you really want a pro." Okay I thought it was funny.

April 3, 2008 1:03 PM, Dain said...

Yeah, I don't agree with most of it. But I thought it was interesting.

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