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· LP's Cream of the Crop: Lips
· Lookbook: Fearsome Fuschia
· Beauty Notes: Free Bésame Soufflé Foundation with $30 Purchase (Offer Ending Saturday)
· Beauty Notebook: Rings, Things, and Fine Array, an Interview with Bésame Cosmetics (part 5)
· Beauty Notebook: Rings, Things, and Fine Array, an Interview with Bésame Cosmetics (part 4)
· Beauty Notebook: Rings, Things, and Fine Array, an Interview with Bésame Cosmetics (part 3)
· Beauty Notebook: Rings, and Things, and Fine Array, An Interview with Bésame Cosmetics (part 2)
· Beauty Notebook: Rings, and Things, and Fine Array*, an Interview with Bésame (part 1)
· Lookbook: Red Lipstick
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LP's Cream of the Crop: Lips
Posted by Dain, Saturday, July 12, 2008 12:01 AM (Eastern)
How do you choose the very best lipcolors? As with every single product, it's a subjective decision. In the past, magazines have taken the easy way out with "universals", shades that anyone may wear. Supposedly. You've heard of them—the 666*, Black Honey, and Dolce Vita—we don't even have to name the brands, do we? But we've noticed that women tend to gravitate towards the same kind of shade over and over again, we are particularists, not universalists. If you don't feel like wearing red lipstick, you're really never going to, so who are we to condescend with a "wearable" one? So, to delight the connoisseur of warm, soft pinks or the enthusiast for rich, sophisticated browns, we've searched for the most special incarnations of each.
OVERALL FORMULAE
best lipsticks We think Chanel has one of the nicest formulae on the market, creamy but light, whether you choose the classic Hydrabases ($27) and the ultra luxurious Rouge Allures ($30), plus the shades are fantastic—you'd be hard pressed not to find one that you love.
best lipglosses Neither too slippery nor too tacky, NARS Lip Gloss ($24) stands out amongst a million different glosses—unlike most, each generous tube is packed to the brim with shine and pigment both. And they don't smell like a candy store.
best lipliners We rely on Chanel for lipliners, too. The Precision Lip Definer ($28) is creamy enough to glide on easily, with a built-in brush to soften any harsh edges.
Here's a shade that will really, truly work on anyone, regardless of whether you're warm or cool, dark or pale: Revlon Raisin Glaze SuperLustrous Lip Gloss ($6.49), the colors of the sunset (peach, rose, gold, red) sheered down and glossified. On deeper complexions, YSL Golden Gloss #8 Golden Blackcurrant ($28) is absolutely gorgeous, like syrupy cherries swirling in black tea, Russian style, and flecked with 24K gold. It works brilliantly on the pale, too, as a berry stain, it won't brighten uncomfortably like many berries. We are particularly fond of Laura Mercier Discretion ($22), for the quiet drama of a nude mouth—it's truly nude, but not washed out.
Chanel Hydrabase Moiré ($27) is as tender and warm as a bouquet of old-fashioned rosebuds, and yet it's not your sweet and simple pink—there's plenty of beige, apricot, and mauve too. Rich berries provide balance to cool, high-contrast coloring, and we're especially fond of NARS Gothika Lip Gloss ($24), a burnished raspberry. Like a mug of fine hot chocolate spiked with pepper, Chanel Mystery Rouge Allure ($30) isn't your standard brown, it's infused with reddish tones and bronze shimmer for an extra level of decadence.
We think Besame Red Velvet ($18) is the greatest red of them all—such a vibrant, classic lip but softened by a touch of rose so it doesn't look harsh, and unlike many reds, has superior pigment in a creamy, not dry, base. We won't waste your time with popsicle-stain sheers for our choice of a bright: the hothouse fuschia of NARS Schiap ($24) is so bold it's almost toxic. As the name implies, Chanel Vamp ($27), the color of old blood stains on a Satanic altar, is fit for a brooding, silent-film queen.
* Am I the only one who's a little taken aback by the fact it's the number o' th' beast?
Labels: besame, chanel, cream of the crop, laura mercier, lips, nars, revlon, ysl
Lookbook: Fearsome Fuschia
Posted by Dain, Monday, June 23, 2008 12:10 AM (Eastern)
I finally caved into a longstanding wishlist item and got myself NARS Schiap, which is such a bold, bright pink it's almost electric*. Pink is usually the color most amenable to the human face, one of the few that can used on cheeks, eyes, and lips without the least bit of trouble, so it's interesting to deal with when it turns hostile on you. If you just want to flirt with the idea of fuschia lips, Besamé Exotic Pink is slightly less intense and much creamier, and L'Oréal Sea Fleur is a drugstore bestseller, but Schiap is the most intense pink you will find. There's no sheer, no shimmer, nor the muting presence of brown to soften the blow, and the pigment is pure and concentrated that your lips are stained a day afterwards.
How does one wear lips this unflinchingly dramatic?
The answer is, well, it's never gonna look natural. Yes, you could apply it as a stain and top it with lip balm or some shimmery gloss, which can be very pretty, but if you're going to wear it, you might as well embrace the drama of it. If you want something wearable, then stick to mauves. This is not pretty in pink, fuschia tends to be very edgy, almost rebellious, lacking the classicism of red lips or the self-effacement of nudes. But like all dramatic lips, it is best balanced by a soft wash of eyeshadow. On a naked face, fuschia lips look too stark on their own, and I feel that black eyeliner, especially of a liquid variety, is a punk-rock cliché. If you really want two dramatic statements, I'd recommend a diffuse wash of light blue, as shown below, or a metallic lime, like Urban Decay Acid (an especially interesting choice on a redhead). On the other hand, if you feel like fuschia lips are quite enough, my bet would be on shades of greyj, for a harlequin look, preferably with a touch of blue, not brown: shimmery charcoal, a sleek silver, or even a white sparkle. Trish McEvoy Gunmetal would be particularly perfect.
Personally, I like something in between, because I feel the presence of soft color really mediates the brightness of the fuschia, whereas the eye cannot help but focus on it with neutrals and another bright color tends to compete. I would also advise veering towards cool, rather than warm colors, like silvered mint or a steel blue, with greys and plums to line. Myself, I'm going wear the steely mint of NARS Habanera (which I've also bought) with my dose of Schiap. Because lipsticks tend to highlight the skin, you'll also need to make judicious use of concealer and foundation, if necessary, but you can definitely skip the blush.
* You'll have to forgive me, there was an image I had in mind for this particular Lookbook, but I cannot find it. I'll keep looking, and update accordingly. I'm not satisfied with these, though they're pretty, they don't quite illustrate the idea that's in my head.
Beauty Notes: Free Bésame Soufflé Foundation with $30 Purchase (Offer Ending Saturday)
Posted by Dain, Wednesday, October 10, 2007 3:06 PM (Eastern)
Disclaimer: I do not work for Bésame (I work for LP!), but I'm a big fan, so I can advocate this deal wholeheartedly.
Until Saturday, Bésame is having a special promotion, a free Soufflé Foundation in your choice of shade with any purchase! This is a $35 deal, and really, a very excellent product. Though shades are limited, as a concealer, it rivals and matches the infamous Clé de Peau as far as I am personally concerned. For a more detailed review, consider my article from a few days ago (or, er, scroll down).
EDIT: Apparently, minimum purchase requirement of $30.
Labels: beauty notes, besame
Beauty Notebook: Rings, Things, and Fine Array, an Interview with Bésame Cosmetics (part 5)
Posted by Dain, 8:37 AM (Eastern)
This is the final installment, including all of Bésame's Lipsticks ($18) but one, Carmine, which doesn't sound like it'd flatter me, so I don't mind. Each shade is delightful in its own way, even though some are quite dry (only Gold Lamé, Coral, and Merlot) and others bland, but you don't always desire bells and whistles. The reds are definitely superior, even compared to red-lipstick specialists like NARS, Giorgio Armani, or Lipstick Queen. The mini bullet is the epitome of retro glam, yet you can slip it as easily into your pocket as easily as last season's Delux glosses (and when was the last time you used up a lipstick, anyway?).
Debutante Pink reminds me, oddly enough, of a MAC Lustre (sheer, moisturizing, semi-gloss, yet airy on the lips). It is not a shade I'd ever pick out for myself because I prefer more substance to my lipcolor, and yet I find myself quite charmed, by this cool candy-pink veneer, subtly accented by silver sparkle. It is somehow very innocent and very sexual at the same time, not saccharine as you might expect, which confounded me at first until I thought... ahh... Lolita.
Portrait Pink is exceptionally demure, not a bit of flirt to it. It recalls ballet, false humility, Henry James novels, Audrey Hepburn (who did favor a pale mouth), Victorian posies—in a word, demure. A warm, pale pink, quite flat.
When I first read the descriptions elsewhere about Dusty Rose, it gave me visions pink-brown. "Not one of those again," I grumbled, "so boring." I am pleased to say, this is a marvelous color, and probably the most flattering of all, personally. A Dusty Rose, to be sure, but I see it as the cool, ever-so-slightly berry-infused cousin to Chocolate Kiss, which takes the ordinary pink-brown and adds a dash for spice for warmth and richness. Where Chocolate Kiss amplifies the brown, Dusty Rose intensifies the pink (hm, that reads like a thesaurus moment—my head is a thesaurus, it cannot be helped). Oddly enough, it reminds me of my beloved NARS Gothika, without the complexity of shimmer.
Exotic Pink I have described earlier, so I'll just copy-paste: Exotic Pink is a heartstoppingly bright fuschia. It makes me think of the 80s, of Miami, perfectly paired with pool blue or emerald shadow (for a real bold look) or black liquid liner (for a graphic one). As magenta lipcolors go, I prefer them somewhat darker (NARS Schiap), but it might be lovely against a toasty Mediterranean complexion. It is fussily feminine, and perhaps requires a diva to wear it. Additionally, I'd like to add, I find this is more wearable with a touch of lip balm over it.
And finally, Wild Orchid, a deep, saturated magenta (not purple) with reeeeaaally subtle shimmer that is only noticeable in the tube, which was rather what I thought Exotic Pink would be, though they are sisters to each other, Exotic Pink is bright, while Wild Orchid is a deeper, lusher jewel-tone, and probably more wearable, as these things go. Personally, I prefer a very sheer stain of Noir Red for a bright pink lip, but that is probably a matter of coloring.
Labels: beauty notebook, besame
Beauty Notebook: Rings, Things, and Fine Array, an Interview with Bésame Cosmetics (part 4)
Posted by Dain, Tuesday, October 09, 2007 8:58 PM (Eastern)
Truly, the lipsticks from Bésame ($18) are superlative. Though I normally cast a dubious eye on browns and their lesser cousins, nudes, I find myself wearing these from the Neutral Collection without anxiety, if not exactly comfort. As with the Red Collection, the colors are masterfully mixed, the vanilla-scented formula pleasant, the packaging adorable, but they are not so pigmented, as the shades are not so bold, and except for Champagne and Chocolate Kiss, less creamy, some are downright dry.
Gold Lamé is the lightest, a light peach infused with gold frost and even a tiny bit of sparkle, with a somewhat dry texture. Like any pale shade that isn't sheer, it mutes the natural color of the lip, but the frost adds a foil-like effect counters that flatness. It gives me an odd feeling, this lipcolor: when's the last time I encountered frost lipstick? Not since the old MAC frosts, Lame and O and all that. I wonder what this is inspired by? The 70s? It is a bit much on me, so I soften it up with clear gloss, so the frost particles don't lie flat for that foil-like finish, but are in suspension, for more depth.
About the same in depth is Champagne, a subtly silvered peachy nude that looks quite lush, not dead on the lips. It has a softer, balm-like texture and semi-sheer coverage, so it is a good training nude because everything about it is soft soft soft like silk. Nudes can make the lips disappear from the face, a look I've never been fond of, but this gives you a lovely soft lip that still has a lot of depth.
Many corals are essential warm pinks with a little orange to them, but Coral is a true coral, an equal marriage between pink and orange, though it actually has a tendency to lean towards the orange, because of the gold flecks that very prettily ornaments this shade. It also has a dry texture, and can be a little rough going on because it has less frost and more sparkle, but it doesn't feel harsh once it's on the lips, and the sparkle is surprisingly soft. Nevertheless, I prefer to apply a touch of lip balm over it, to alleviate the dry texture, and sheer the gold so that it is a more balanced coral, for lips drunk from nectar.
Recipe for Aztec hot chocolate: heat milk almost to boiling, add Ghiradelli hot chocolate mixture, and a dash of red pepper. Or, wear Chocolate Kiss, a creamy medium brown that has much pink added to it, plus a dash of spice. It looks a bit out of place on my face, but for those who like warm colors, this is just a little more fun than the usual pink-brown, the equal and opposite counterpart to a cool shade like my beloved NARS Gothika.
I was curious about Merlot when I heard it described as a "berry red", so I expected something rather cool, but my imaginings were off, because it's a very muted, almost murky warm berry red, very beautiful, like old roses. Apply with a slight hand, it makes a gorgeous stain over lip balm. I find myself at a loss for the words to describe this color; "murky" is appropriate but not exactly flattering. It is soft yet deep, warm yet without any orange tones and very little brown just berry. The image above fails to do it justice: apply and you will see.
Labels: beauty notebook, besame
Beauty Notebook: Rings, Things, and Fine Array, an Interview with Bésame Cosmetics (part 3)
Posted by Dain, Monday, October 08, 2007 10:32 PM (Eastern)
You'll have to imagine my surprise, and delight, when another package from Bésame came to my door. If you have been with us before, you'll already know that I have been impressed by Cashmere Powder Compact, and especially, Enchanting Lipstick.
I think I have found yet another heavyweight in Soufflé Foundation. Grapevine raves and comparisons to the twice-as-expensive Kevyn Aucoin Sensual Skin Enhancer had piqued my curiosity, and I am especially fond of cream foundation if I am fond of any (my first was Estée Lauder Minute Makeup, back in the day, oh, when $33.50 was a high price for makeup). But I already have SSE, and I am not the sort who asks simply because I can have. It was fortunate they sent this, because I have found, of all things a replacement for the holiest of concealers, Clé de Peau.
Like any cream foundation, it can be applied thickly for photographic purposes, but for everyday I'd touch it lightly with a small, very soft, natural brush like Giorgio Armani Blender Brush (yes, not synthetic! not so durable, but a better, featherlight finish, which is important with cream foundations, which have a tendency to cake) and just buff it into the skin. Cream foundations mix readily with each other for custom blending for the perfect shade. Additionally, any cream foundation with ample coverage can double as concealer. All reasons why makeup artists so favor cream foundations.
I can see why the similitude to SSE exists. It is a pigmented cream foundation (with a slight tea rose scent that I actually failed to notice at first, so, innocuous) that "sets" for indelibility (it washes off fine with mere Cetaphil), which makes blending a little tricky. You learn to use the smallest amount and blend quickly. There are a few differences: it is less pigmented, for one, but blends more easily because it liquifies somewhat (SSE is essentially high-tech spackle). But, the range is undeniably larger with SSE. You are out of luck if you are pale, though the selection for darker shades is quite excellent. The shade they sent me, Bisque, is the lightest shade they offer, a hair too light for me, with just a hint of peach. They also sent me samples of three other shades, displayed below:
From top, Golden Beige, a lovely tan color, Medium Beige, exactly as the name implies, Cameo Yellow, an intensely yellow light beige, and the one they sent me, Bisque. On the whole, these colors are warm and yellow-toned.
While I have little use for foundation (and in any case, I seem to be between shades on this one), this makes the best concealer. It is slightly lighter than my skintone, so it is perfect for naturally dark spots like undereyes and the side of the nose. Here's the clincher. I applied my current concealer alongside it for a comparison. On one side, is the Stephane Marais Perfect Concealer, which is an exact replica of the infamous $68 Clé de Peau, the other side, Bésame. The difference is nonexistent (perhaps the CdP is a little more powdery—perhaps), the same flawlessly impeccable finish, and in fact, I think the Bésame is a little better at concealing darkness, because of the slight peachiness, à la YSL Touche Eclat. I do not know how it would fare on oily skin, or if it would settle into fine lines, so YMMV, and the pot is less convenient than the stick, but, let's, for once allow the numbers do the talking:
$13.60/g vs. $2/g
Labels: beauty notebook, besame
Beauty Notebook: Rings, and Things, and Fine Array, An Interview with Bésame Cosmetics (part 2)
Posted by Dain, Wednesday, September 26, 2007 2:43 PM (Eastern)
If you haven't heard by now that red lipstick is back, then you've been hiding in a hole for too long. One day in May, I went to Holt's in Montréal, and applied one Giorgio Armani, and everyone I met insisted it was "my lipstick". The only other lipcolor that's garnered so many compliments has been NARS Gothika, my go-to, YLBB, everyday lipcolor. I was taken by the notion. Why not red for everyday? Why not? I wear heels, don't I? And I'm so sick of sheers and glosses. It's done. Red lipstick is classic and ladylike and I'd be the only one wearing it. I suppose that last bit is no longer the case, but it launched a search for my perfect red, an idle signifier before, which I settled on as somewhat on the cool side (because my blush is cool), a raspberry red. I got that Armanisilk lipstick, but it's LE, so I'm still in the market for another.
If you are, too, do yourself a favor, and check out Bésame. While my reviews of the other products have been lukewarm, I can barely hold back the commendations for Enchanting Lipstick ($18). Truly, this is what lipstick should be: the richest, truest pigment, the cute little gilt bullets, creamy and comfortable without fading or migrating, a soft vanilla scent reminiscent of MAC's. The shape of the lipstick itself puzzled me at first, but now I appreciate how it enables me to draw crisp lines without resorting to lipliner, and find myself endeavoring to preserve its shape. I actually like how petite they are in this case: just a dose of glamour that fits into the tiniest evening bag. I also like how smoothly they apply: pigmented, matte lipsticks are notorious for emphasizing flakey lips, but Bésame's lipsticks apply very smoothly. I recommend, however, the smoothest lips beforehand if possible, and a light hand when it comes to application, as this lipstick product does not fool around with pigment. I find Enchanting Lipstick superior to every other lipstick, from YSL to Revlon, but its appeal is somewhat limited, since most of the shades lack shimmer and none are sheer, though more subdued shades do exist.
Exotic Pink is a heartstoppingly bright fuschia. It makes me think of the 80s, of Miami, perfectly paired with pool blue or emerald shadow (for a real bold look) or black liquid liner (for a graphic one). As magenta lipcolors go, I prefer them somewhat darker (NARS Schiap), but it might be lovely against a toasty Mediterranean complexion. It is fussily feminine, and perhaps requires a diva to wear it.
Red Hot Red, as the name implies, is a bright bright red, just a tinge of orange for a little heat. Absolutely perfect on blondes, who require brighter reds to equal their bright hair.
Bésame Red is close enough to Red Hot Red that it begs the question, does one really need both? The intensity is similar, but this is a true, neutral, bright cherry red for that pinup-girl lip. Probably anyone who desires bright color can wear it, because it is neither warm nor cool, but again, I favor bright reds on blondes. If you're a brunette, consider instead...
Red Velvet has my vote as the most wearable red on earth, for those who are only just dabbling in the trend. I dislike the advice that colorphobics should attempt a sheer red instead. Though it is a "classic", red lipstick is not for the faint of heart; confidence is a requirement. It's supposed to be a bold look. But I can understand that not everyone wants a killer stiletto but maybe instead a mary-jane pump, and if so, Red Velvet is just the thing for you. It is still red, just tempered by enough rose to soften red's natural aggression, a really rich soigné color.
Cherry Red suits my Snow White complexion best. It is a deep red, slightly cool, with a slight leaning towards bright cool pink in the stain, the color of a perfect red rose. It has plenty of drama, but the sort of dangerous beauty of Lady Macbeth.
Noir Red is a very dark, purplish, vampy, Gloria-Swanson, black-cherry red. Surprisingly, I really like this—not full strength, I'm all for power lips, but this is a bit much—but as a stain, with a tiny bit of lip balm on top. It makes the most heaven-sent gorgeous plum.
The best thing about Bésame? They send samples of each and every product they sell! Why don't other companies do this? It is a brilliant, a brilliant marketing strategy. You can judge for yourself, in the comfort of your own home, over time, without some desperate SA breathing over your shoulder. That's just consumer kindness, that is. I would like to try Merlot, which by all accounts seems like the cool berry red that might replace my Armanisilk when the time comes, and Chocolate Kiss, out of curiosity.
Labels: beauty notebook, besame, lips
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September 26, 2007 3:43 PM, Colleen Shirazi said...
drools February 24, 2008 6:38 PM, missilita said...
I stumbled across your blog only this week and I LOVE your reviews of Besame's lipsticks. I am also an aficionada of Besame products (as well as NARS lipsticks) -It's a pity they no longer sell samples like they used to... |
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Beauty Notebook: Rings, and Things, and Fine Array*, an Interview with Bésame (part 1)
Posted by Dain, Tuesday, September 25, 2007 4:16 PM (Eastern)
Does there exist a feminine soul who can resist the lure of "retro glamour"? Even if you dress in sweats or Yojhi Yamamoto, it's not the sort of aesthetic that inspires much argument, even if you'd never be caught dead in Joy and pumps and pearls and red lipstick. But retro is tricky; you run the risk of looking affected. "'I'm always at pains to keep things contemporary,'" explains Dick Page in Vogue July 2007, "'Too often, glamour is over-referenced,' citing the tendency to mimic a vintage look to the letter. 'If you're going to look back, you have to have one arm in the future... Glamour is effective only when done with easy conviction.'"
Bésame hurdles over such obstacles almost perfectly. It is better executed than, say, Body & Soul. My only objection is the packaging. The products are very small, which is frustrating if you really like what's inside. And the signature shiny gold and red chrysanthemums, though a treasure to behold singly, is somewhat overdone when your collection numbers half a dozen. Otherwise, this line has much to offer. The shades are very select and meticulously chosen, to great effect; it's easy to see that someone had a hand in every step of the process. This is especially evident in the lipsticks, the mini bullets (for some reason, I don't mind the size here) and vintage-inspired. But the formulations are modern, which is not a bad thing. Remember how chalky eyeshadows were a mere five years ago? There'd be no virtue in copying exactly a formula from five decades ago. The powders are silky, the lipsticks are creamy and color-true, and I hear the Soufflé foundation is a dead ringer for Kevyn Aucoin SSE.
Please enjoy the first part of our interview with the founder of Bésame, Gabriela Hernandez, I hope you find it as enjoyable to read as I did!
How did you get started with Bésame? What was the inspiration behind your line?
My career in cosmetics started as a by-product of my career in design. I have been a working designer for 18 years, and designing cosmetics developed from a project I did for another cosmetics company. I had many of my grandmother's antique make-up containers and had the idea to bring back that special sensibility that made women's products feminine and special. I researched and developed my designs, looked for suppliers who could manufacture the formulas I wanted to make, and launched the company in Sep. 2004. It took 5 years of preliminary work to launch with our lipsticks that year with our first website.
My work is influenced most by history and antique toiletries for women. I study materials and formulas to bring the best from the past, and blend it with modern techniques. I am a research fanatic, and often read 5 or 6 books at a time. I also love to interview older ladies who can give me insight into products from the past. Fashion styles and fabrics also influence my color development choices. I chose to work with these older formulas because the colors were so vibrant and the textures were made to last. I wanted a lipstick to stay put, be indelible and feather-proof, which is difficult to achieve with red shades. I developed my formulas to deliver these attributes, without sacrificing the feel of a crème lipstick.
Could you give us an idea of how you choose a color?
I chose the colors in our red collection from analyzing many antique tubes that I gathered from around the world. The best colors kept appearing in lipsticks from different manufacturers from the period and in different parts of the world, so I chose these classic shades for our collection. They embody the best reds made since the creation of the cosmetic industry in the US.
What are your recommendations for fall?
Fall always goes back to russets, burgundies and deep red or cranberry tones. The colors of nature in the fall make these jewel reds attractive to wear with your knits and coats. A pop of color also can bring up your mood, which can be lowered by the lack of sunshine.
Who are your style icons?
My style icons are the timeless elegance of Audrey Hepburn, the sultry sexiness of Marilyn and the strong character of Lauren Bacall. I also love the style of Dolores Del Rio, Collette, Clara Bow, Greta Garbo, Grace Kelly and Marlene Dietrich.
What are your other favorite products (perfumes, skincare, etc.)?
I love the style of Guerlain. They are one of the oldest perfume and cosmetic companies and still produce beautiful products.
Coming up next, the star of the line, the lipsticks. While my reviews thus far have been a little mixed, I can frankly say that these are the best lipsticks I've ever tried, so please stay tuned!
*Kiss me, Kate! Taming of the Shrew.
Labels: beauty notebook, besame
Lookbook: Red Lipstick
Posted by Dain, Sunday, September 23, 2007 2:36 PM (Eastern)
Perhaps nothing quite matches the drama of classic red lipstick. Smoky eyes may smolder on every starlet, but red lipsticks are more primitively sexual. Anthropologists have suggested that red lips are evocative of the blood rushing to the labia, an exaggeration along the lines of Chinese foot-binding or the neck rings of Myanmar. The effort required should be considered part of the appeal of red lipstick, a concession to formality. It leaves traces everywhere, requires precise application and constant touching up. It should be noted that red lipstick is the biggest thing now, as any fashion magazine will tell you (I told you this in June), and NOT the retro or eccentric look that it was before.
THE BASICS
- flawless face: If you have any redness in the face, it will be exaggerated by red lipstick. It is imperative, therefore, that the skin be free of blemish. Foundation, concealer, and powder are all recommended (or some combination thereof). When it comes to blush, I like a bit of highlighter for the subtlest glow, but a very soft, clear pink is also very flattering. If you are tan, and have chosen an orange-red or coral-red, bronzer is also a beautiful option.
- the perfect red: Above is an example of cherry red; it is bright, but also the most classic, the most neutral. If you have not found your perfect red yet, I suggest Bésame Red Velvet—a touch of rose (but not fuschia) softens what is bright—the most universally wearable red I have ever set eyes on, without prevarications into sheer. It's creamy, full pigment, in the most adorable mini-bullet tube. A warm red is especially flattering on a redhead; it should have a little orange and a lot of brown, and brick reds know no greater expression than Sue Devitt Great Australian Bight. Cool reds especially flatter pale brunettes, I love the dramatic blue-red of NARS Scarlett Empress. I think a brighter red better suits blondes: Lipstick Queen Red Sinner is for you. If you do not have the precision to apply straight from the tube, you may need to resort to a lipliner and lip brush.
- what to wear on eyes: It should go without saying that red lipstick requires a fairly minimal eye. You can experiment with color to some degree—a rich indigo looks lovely with a raspberry red stain, an antiqued olive is a beautiful counterpart to a glossy coral red—but you do run the risk of looking messy. But, to leave the eyes entirely naked is a failure of balance. I suggest, rather, tasteful, subtle enhancement. The most classic is black liquid (or these days, gel) liner, as seen in the image above. It is graphic, but clean, so it does not overburden the eyes, though it may cross somewhat into the overly retro. Another option is a wash of icy white or champagne (seen below, with cool red lips), with mascara, which emphasizes the standoffish quality of red lipstick, fit for a Snow Queen. But my favorite method is a haze of medium shadow, because it adds balance without making a big statement. Warm reds look best with gold when the lipstick is darker, as in the example below, for brighter reds, amber is especially beautiful. Cool reds are easily complemented by pewter or dove grey, such as NARS Bombshell. For the least competition, a matte taupe is perfect, as at the top.
Here are all the classic looks (more colorful looks will be forthcoming, but I need to gather the appropriate images first, which takes an insane amount of time):
Au Naturel
Bronzed
Polished
Smoky Eyes
Labels: besame, lipstick queen, lookbook, nars, sue devitt
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July 12, 2008 12:43 AM,
Am I the only one who's a little taken aback by the fact it's the number o' th' beast?
Nope. I always have been, too.
July 12, 2008 3:44 AM,
Hehe... I guess it's a bit silly of me.
July 12, 2008 10:16 AM,
I was always mildly amused by it.
However, there is a street here in our subdivision where all the addresses start with 666**. Everyone refers to it as Devils Lane....
July 12, 2008 10:51 AM,
There are people who think Reagan was the devil because his complete name is Ronald Wilson Reagan, or 666. That's a bit far-fetched for me (and in any case, I don't think W'n'W is particularly devilish), but it's fun to play around with.