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· June 27, 2007 8:32 AM by
cmm
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Colleen Shirazi
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Color Me In: Cat
Posted by Dain, Tuesday, January 01, 2008 1:21 AM (Eastern)
FIRST NAME Cathy
HAIR COLOR black
SKIN TYPE very sensitive. mild eczema.
SKIN TONE yellow (??) editor's note: golden, to be exact, but yellow works
EYE COLOR brown
MAKEUP STYLE minimal. classic. natural. but with color. like purple liner, not black, etc. but subtle.
SPECIFIC CONCERNS play up eyes and eyebrows. BLACKHEADS!!! pores. DARK CIRCLES AND EYE BAGS. time is a major concern. beyond frantic.
TOP THREE FAVORITE PRODUCTS burts bees apricot something face scrub. olay quench for summer. eucerin original moisturizing creme for winter. NARS for color.
As ever, we will begin with the skin. As I always stress, nothing is more important: if we do not take care of our skin, everything else is, quite literally, cosmetic. Since Cathy is very pressed for time and wishes to minimalize, I would recommend Jurlique for her dry, sensitive skin, which is Australia's answer to the all-natural, organically sourced Dr. Hauschka without the pore-clogging peanut oil.
For your more specific concerns, I will honestly tell you, blackheads are really, really, really tough to get rid of. If, after a month of use, the Jurlique cleanser has not worked on your blackheads, then you may wish to consider Biologique Recherche Lotion P50W, but I suggest seeing if a good, basic routine does not manage them first. As for puffy eyes, I'll admit to a lack of expertise in this respect, so I will defer to Kevyn Aucoin, who liked Origins Puffery ($20), chilled in the refrigerator for extra impact, "for when you've crying over a fight with your boyfriend". Drink more water, and apply this at bedtime as we all retain more water as we sleep.
I always believe in simple regimens with pure products, when it comes to skincare. Skin is such an organic thing, and you can't really abuse it or try to control, or it will rebel, like a wayward teenager.
When it comes to fast-and-easy makeup, the best way to streamline is to target that which needs targeting: the darkness under the eyes, an overall lack of glow and health, groomed brows, definition at the lashline, and lipcolor for balance. Products so basic they're boring, but I have made some attempt to choose products that are very quick and easy to use even when frazzled and exhausted—creams instead of powders, friendly and flattering shades.
That'll work as an everyday face, with two lipcolors to switch around in intensity, but if you feel like playing around with color, may I indulge your NARS addiction and taste for subversive but refined eyeliner with Belly Dance?
Labels: becca, bioderma, cle de peau, color me in, jurlique, kevyn aucoin, l'oreal, nars, origins, shiseido
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Globe Trotter (part 4)
Posted by Dain, Tuesday, June 26, 2007 3:21 AM (Eastern)
MAKE UP YOUR MIND
Since you've already packed such a nice clutch, it will double as a makeup bag while you're in transit. I know there are women who don't feel right without makeup on their faces, but I strongly urge not wearing any. Traveling is dirty business, so the cleaner your face, the better, which is why I would only carry cleansing wipes and an all purpose salve. If you must wear something while in transit, keep it restrained to concealer, mascara, and a versatile lip/cheek color, like Becca Beach Tint or Stila Convertible Color, and this is at the most.
Bring the bare minimum—the most essential, the most flattering products—and leave experimentation at home. For me, this is undereye concealer, cream blush, ultra black mascara and liner, eyelash curler, a sweetly shimmering wash to open up eyes (though you can cheat with a well chosen quad or quint), a favorite lippie, and tweezers. This are just the essentials for me (concealer, blush, and lush lashes), with just a little extra for some additional polish (eyeshadow, lip color, and tweezers). But needs differ; for example, I don't use foundation, while it may be a necessary for someone else.
It was an unfortunate thing when they discontinued Stephane Marais Perfect Concealer, because it's superlative; a small dab will effectively and invisibly cover dark circles. Buy the more expensive incarnation from Clé de Peau ($68). My favorite blush is NARS Sin, but I think Stila Orchid Convertible Color ($22), a cool rose-berry, might have a similar doll-face effect. It's a cream, thus it requires no blush brush, as well as doing double-duty as lip tint. Plus, the mirrored compact allows for touchups anywhere. Concealer and blush are foolproof ways to wake up any face. L'Oreal Voluminous has been my favorite mascara for years: it's cheap, readily available, and plumps up fine lashes beautifully (I imagine it clumps on fuller lashes). I'm not even tempted to stray. That is, until L'Oreal introduced the Carbon Black ($6.99) shade, and I've fallen even more deeply in love. This is, as the name implies, a really intense, rich black, a very important detail when you have black hair to begin with. I've also discovered that an equally intense black liner, smudged between lashes on the inner rim, creates an almost-false-lash effect, adding fullness and definition that was never there to begin with, but without adding more gunk to your eyelashes. I started with Too Faced Lava Gloss, but I think it's too expensive, even if it's a completely unique formula. So where can I find a cheap, creamy but longlasting pencil in a really rich black? I've heard great things about Jordana Color XTend Eyeliner in Black Out ($2.49). I always start this highly involved lash process with Shu Uemura Eyelash Curler ($18). I favor reds, berries, and roses on my lips and cheeks, and the softly greyed lilac shimmer of CHANEL Lavande Soft Touch Eye Shadow ($27.50) not only complements my cheeks and lips, but also flatters my brown eyes and it lifts tiredness away. And, I don't know, there's just something about purple eyeshadow that makes me feel like a fairy. NARS Gothika Lip Gloss ($23) is my favorite lipcolor: a burnished rose shimmer infused with berry tones, like a grown-up version of my first favorite lipstick, Jane Loco Cocoa. I wouldn't have thought that Tweezerman Slant Tweezers ($20) would be necessary, but I find that if I don't pack them, I miss them. They're just really useful, and well groomed brows instantly frame the face.
To this, you need only add something for going out. I've included two options here, for the sake of argument (does one emphasize eyes, or lips?), but really, you only need one, as long as it's a good one.
I would have never thought that blue would be so flattering until I tried my friend's CHANEL Blue Notes Quadra Eye Shadow $55. A rich navy does complement brown eyes well, but blues, for the most part, are either completely grey and blah, or an unnatural apparition on the skin. Blue Notes, by contrast, exudes mystery, especially that darker blue as a liner (over MAC Teddy Eye Kohl, not included here), and the pink or sky blue as an ethereal wash. The white is useless, in my opinion (a soft grey like NARS Bombshell would have been much wiser), but there it is. And how badly do I want Giorgio Armani Armanisilk #46 Bordeaux ($25)? I've contemplated red lipsticks for a long time without committing to one, and there's many an excellent red out there, but when by some chance I tried this one on at Holt's in Montreal and... sometimes when you've found the ONE, you just know. Fifteen minutes later, I had received half a dozen compliments, including this one, "If you don't own that lipstick, you have to buy it. Because you really ought to wear it every day."
BAG O' MINIS
Travel sizes and kits have always struck me as a little awkward. Who uses them? Who would want to? But they're nice to have when you're short on space, and I've managed to hunt down a few that are quite luxe enough to be a pleasure to use.
The miniature two-ounce bottle of Dr. Bronner's Lavender Magic Soap ($2.49) is a perfect multipurpose sudser; I'd use it as a body wash and as a gentle laundry detergent, while the fresh, soothing scent of lavender delights the senses. Dr. Bronner's is a hippie classic. In fact, I read somewhere that this soap has tested positive for liquid ecstasy, is that true? That might explain the label. The two-ounce Weleda's Rose Deodorant ($9) is gentle, perfectly travel-worthy, and scented with heavenly rose. Bumble & Bumble Gentle Shampoo ($7) and Super Rich Conditioner ($8) is a fragrant and nourishing combination that won't miss. The two-ounce bottles are perfect for travel, though I'd take two bottles of the conditioner for my long hair. The gorgeous vintage stylings and fresh, natural taste of Marvis Classic Strong Mint Toothpaste ($4.50) can be had in this adorable mini size. I can't live without my Cetaphil Gentle Skin Cleanser ($6), and it comes in a four-ounce size worthy of travel. And though not a travel size, this little one-ounce vial of Burt's Bees Repair Serum ($15) tucks away easily into the smallest of spaces. The one I'm interested in is the Light version that has only just come out, so the miniatures are not available yet. However, you can get the original Dr. Hauschka Rose Day Cream ($6.50) travel size.
Instead of lugging around an entire bottle of perfume, a perfume oil is subtler (very snuggly) and infinitely more travel-friendly. Volupsa Pink Fatale ($24) is not only covered in gorgeous swirly art-deco pink floral, topped with a gold knob and a black bow, it's also the most charming scent: soft warm skin musk tempered with a little white floral. It's the sort of perfume that disappears if you sniff too aggressively, but when you leave it alone, it wafts the most beautiful sillage that people will demand to know what it is.
CREATURE COMFORTS
Some products may seem very inessential at first, but when you arrive at your destination and have these products on hand, you will be very grateful that you did bring them.
A body oil? you say? Yes! You will be surprised at the multitude of uses you can put Jo Wood Organics USIKU Body Oil ($110), a healing blend of skin-friendly oils in a spicy-earthy gorgeous scent of rosemary, pine, cardamom, ginger, coriander, clove, clary sage, cedarwood, patchouli and vetiver. It's not just for your body. It's brilliant on hair before going out in the sun, where it'll warm up like a hot oil treatment, and it'll do a number on rough cuticles and scaly feet. My skin and hair always get completely frazzled in the sun and surf. In a pinch, it'll even function as perfume.
Part 5, coming up, a final summary.
Labels: bioderma, burt's bees, chanel, dr. hauschka, jo wood organics, jordana, l'occitane, stephane marais, voluspa
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June 27, 2007 8:32 AM, cmm said...
Just wanted to add that the Loreal Mascara works just as well on my eyelashes. I do have fairly thick lashes, thick, lots of them, but they are short. June 27, 2007 9:51 PM, Colleen Shirazi said...
I was wondering where the heck you were! :) That's terrific that you have a pool. Just the thing for summer. June 29, 2007 3:21 PM, Dain said...
I can't do waterproof. I'm bad enough at removing the stuff in the first place, but I'm thinking of seeking out a good makeup remover. I'm glad to hear Voluminous works for fuller lashes, though. You know this was Kevyn Aucoin's fave? He used this and Shu Uemura Basic (which is a much more natural look), but he loved Voluminous the most. |
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Beauty Notes (6.25.07)
Posted by Dain, Monday, June 25, 2007 12:15 PM (Eastern)
I have found my new perfume obsession...
The best skincare endorsements are personal recommendations from models.
1. Bioderma Créaline H20 Cleansing Solution: A dizzying number of models swear by this as the most gentle, effective cleanser/makeup remover. It is not available in the US, but you can buy it at www.leguidesante.com, along with Bioderma's top-of-the-line sunscreen, Photoderm MAX Lait SPF 50+, which is said to beat even Anthelios in wearability. I don't use makeup remover, but I'm starting to think I should, because instead I just rub at my eyes with a towel, and that's a really bad habit. Other cleansers oft quoted: Cetaphil, Lancome Bi-Facil, and Shu Uemura Cleansing Oil. No brainers there, they're all gentle industry favorites, and with the exception of Cetaphil, famed makeup removers.
2. They adore Dr. Hauschka. The Cleansing Cream and Rose Day Cream are particularly favored, though neither really worked for me. The Cleansing Cream had some allergen to which I reacted badly, and the Rose Day Cream was much too occlusive. But the Facial Toner is fantastic; it's the only toner I'd use, and Daria Werbowy is a huge fan of the Quince Day Cream, which is much nicer than the Rose in my opinion.
3. There's less of a concensus when it comes to favorite moisturizers. But one seems to emerge, again and again, Embryolisse Lait-Cr*egrave;me Concentré 24-Hour Miracle Cream, which is a very simple, gentle, and effective moisturizer that models swear by to repair "damage" from the shows. I'm dying to try it; I'm still looking for an HG moisturizer, and this sounds like the Cetaphil among moisturizers. Too bad www.leguidesante.com doesn't carry it, because I could buy Crealine, Photoderm, and Embryolisse all together in fell swoop.
4. Plenty of water and rest, as well as a healthy diet, though the latter I remain dubious of; it seems more reflective of the standard model starvation technique. I don't really eat much in terms of vegetables (I love my steak frites with blue cheese, my barbecue ribs, and fried chicken, plus I avoid salads for the most part and am allergic to the vast majority of fruits), and I have pretty fine skin myself.
5. Miscellaneous? Face sprays (for airplanes, not that I've ever noticed that I get that dehydrated when I travel, only dirty), masks and regular exfoliation. Lisa Cant recommends a homemade mask of mashed bananas and whole milk, and that seems worth trying (if I wanted to make it really cosmetic, I'd add honey, oatmeal softened in that milk, wheat germ oil, neroli essential oil, and a tiny bit of white clay).
Speaking of skincare...
1. Bioderma Créaline H20 Solution, for eye makeup removal, and I think it is about time I invested in a makeup remover. I've always been too lazy, and I have sensitive eyes so I've not had much success with the ones I've tried.
2. Cetaphil Gentle Skin Cleanser, a bona fide staple for half a dozen years
3. Burt's Bees Repair Serum, as a general soothing / regenerative / nourishing / balancing treatment and lightweight moisturizer
4. Embryolisse Lait-Crème Concentré, as an extra layer of hydration when my skin is dry (the other half of the year), I'm looking for some restorative and simple, and this is extactly that
5. Badger Evolving Balm, as lip balm and general all-purpose emollient
It is obscenely difficult to find Bioderma and Embryolisse in the United States. But that just makes it the more alluring, I suppose. "O, I picked these up at a French pharmacy."
The refinement continues...
If you were me, what blush would you wear with this? I was thinking NARS Sin or Stila Convertible Color in Orchid (or Rose?). In any case, a cool, berrified rose is the way to go, and both, I think would be a good investment because it would take me ages to finish.
Opalis, redux
Eyeshadow addiction has always been a bane for me...
Labels: badger, beauty notes, bioderma, burt's bees, chanel, crealine, dr. hauschka, embryolisse, giorgio armani, models, nars, opalis, parfumerie generale, skin
Globe Trotter (part 3)
Posted by Dain, Saturday, June 23, 2007 6:13 AM (Eastern)
FROM CASUAL TO DRESSY
To illustrate the true versatility of the system, I've assembled a few outfits together, from casual to dressy to dressed up.
As you can see, even with so few clothes, the outfits are very different from each other. That's the magic of a well organized suitcase.
SWIM & SUN
For most people, vacation is the beach. Admittedly, not every trip involves it, but it is nevertheless an important enough category to merit some attention. One swimsuit is enough: Zimmerman Summer Love Bikini $175, below.
Don't forget a good sunscreen, like Bioderma Photoderm Max Lait 50+ ($17.32), which has piqued my curiosity because I've heard it beats even Anthelios. Add some Lolita*-esque Sweet Heart Sunglasses ($14) from Urban Outfitters, a Malo Beach Blanket ($377.99) (with a built-in pillow!), and Havaianas ($15), and you're ready to go. NOTA BENE: In Europe, only Americans wear flip flops outside of the beach.
BEAT THE CHILL
Alternatively, you may find yourself in nasty weather, particularly when traveling in temperate zones. The trick, I find, is not to pack more, but to be smart about what you bring. Light layers are ideal (see Part 1). Wear a jacket to the airport, like this sleek but rugged Banana Republic leather bellows pocket jacket ($298), perfect for the roughest, toughest voyage, but almost sweet in creamy nougat-colored leather.
A fine-gauge v-neck sweater, like this sea-green cashmere sweater ($218) from Ballantyne is perfect for layering. It's lightweight, but warm. The v-neck allows the shirt underneath to peek through, but it can, of course, be worn as a sweater. I've also discovered that a soft cashmere sweater like this can be worn instead of pajamas: you've never felt anything so comfy. Wrap around your neck a vibrant scarf, like these brilliantly hued Loro Piana cashmere/silk shawls ($395). I always bring one of these when I travel. They're incredibly versatile, functioning not only as a scarf, a shawl, a pillow, an eye mask, an emergency hat, and blanket as the occasion requires. And finally, I carry a small umbrella. Mine's bright pink with ruffles and a glittery handle, but... : ) To each his own.
PRACTICAL: VERY IMPORTANT THINGS THAT ARE EASILY FORGOTTEN AND QUICKLY REGRETTED
1. travel documents, maps and information, wallet, and keys, of course
2. adequate underwear (and socks, if needed, but you can avoid packing any if you bring the right shoes), it helps if you bring a small fabric laundry bag, which takes up no extra room, so as to separate the clean from the dry
2. toothbrush, a new one in its package so as to avoid contamination, plus floss and toothpaste
3. a small Ziploc with medical necessities: first-world tampons, anti-itch eye drops, sleeping pills, Advil, and allergy medication covers it for me
4. liquid soap that doubles as laundry detergent and body wash, other toiletries (expanded in greater detail in Part 4)
5. razorcomb, deodorant, exfoliating bath mitt (smaller and dries cleaner than your average puff or sponge)
6. ziploc bags, of course, you could spend a lot of money on toiletry cases and whatnot, but what's the point? plastic bags are cheap, clear, and spillproof...
7. portable alarm clock
*You know, that scene when Humbert Humbert sees Lolita for the first time, sunbathing in the garden, she's wearing heart-shaped sunglasses (albeit in red). I speak of the Kubrick interpretation. Great movie.
Labels: anthony logistics, aquis, ballantyne, bioderma, graphic image, loro piana, malo, mason pearson, travel, zimmermann
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