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· Beauty Notes: BVLGARI Eau Parfumée au Thé Vert Review
· Beauty Notes: BVLGARI Blv Notte Pour Femme Review
· Present Perfect: The Sacred Nerve is Magic Poison
· The Mnemonic Sense: Urban
· Beauty Notes: When You Are Young...
· Beauty Notebook SEPTEMBER 2006: School Days

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· May 22, 2008 5:40 PM by Blogger kwangho

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Beauty Notes: BVLGARI Eau Parfumée au Thé Vert Review
Posted by Dain, Saturday, June 21, 2008 12:00 AM (Eastern)


Gourmands are often quite dense and rich, but Eau Parfumée au Thé Vert wears as light as a cologne. Thanks to the minimalist hand of Jean-Claude Ellena, and inspired by the aromas inside a Mariage Frères store, it is superbly fresh without resorting to the sharpness of aldehydes, ozonics, or citrus. There is some citrus, but just a twist of bergamot to brighten, and there are some watery notes, but without the faceless persistence of the ubiquitous Nineties colognes (CK One, Acqua di Gio, and Issey Miyake), with a delicate touch of spices (coriander, cardamom) and florals (a few stray petals of orange blossom and jasmine) to add warmth and depth to the composition. According to Chandler Burr, Eau Parfumée au Thé Vert is actually based on black tea, but continues to be marketed as green tea, perhaps there is a fresher, more zen appeal to green over black. It is just distinctive enough to be elegant, but clean enough to be casual—to whit, a pair of A.P.C. jeans (I just bought a pair in green, so it works for me).

Jean-Claude Ellena is of course an excellent source for fresh-but-posh perfumes, not just Eau Parfumée au Thé Vert, but compositions as varied as YSL In Love Again, Frédéric Malle Eau d'Hiver, and Hermès Terre de Hermès. If you are looking for intrigue and emotional complication, you will be disappointed, of course, and if you did not grow up in a semi-tropic Niçoise climate, you may find his work too ephemeral, but all the same his stuff is ideal for a summer fling.

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Beauty Notes: BVLGARI Blv Notte Pour Femme Review
Posted by Dain, Saturday, March 29, 2008 8:46 PM (Eastern)

It's not exactly Hendrix, but it's far catchier.

If it true, as they say, that perfume is an art, then the classical giants (Coty, Guerlain, Chanel, Caron, et al.) have claimed the largest share of the finite creative space, leaving niche contemporaries to fight over the crumbs. Now, I'm not entirely convinced of this... perfume is a consumable, and the perfume industry is a business first and foremost, no matter how queer and metaphoric. Nevertheless, almost everyone agrees that Thierry Mugler Angel is a contemporary original, an abstract gourmand, space-age chocolate confectionery. So original, in fact, that everyone saw fit to copy it, thus ushering in an age of sweet.

Blv Notte is one such copycat. It's is clearly inspired by Angel, wrapping its dark and velvety chocolate heart within layers of crystalline, iris-laced musk, but has lost Angel's divisive edginess: on me, it smells exactly like cat piss, but on the right woman it is nothing short of a marvel. Blv Notte is more of a crowd pleaser, a commercial take on the abstract gourmand, and no less than three of my friends have sniffed and bought.

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Present Perfect: The Sacred Nerve is Magic Poison
Posted by Dain, Wednesday, December 12, 2007 3:38 PM (Eastern)

Though holiday sets litter the shelves of Sephora, when it comes to cosmetics and gifts, what people really want is perfume. My own research has proved this to be true. And really, a bottle of perfume does make a perfect gift, without heedlessly straining your budget. The trick is to find one that suits your recipient's taste exactly, and he or she is sure to enjoy it for months to come. I know there are those with more sophisticated tastes, but in that case they can give specific directions. I've tried to stick to universal pleasers within the grasp of the layman.

When in doubt, the House of Chanel delivers. The aldehydic signature is as good as a trademark, it just smells expensive, a quality difficult to attain, though my admiration is somewhat diminished by its vulgarity. But, there is a Chanel for everyone, mostly florientals. Though difficult for some to appreciate, No. 5 is still the world bestseller, and for the young there is Coco Mademoiselle, with a modern gourmand twist, and Allure for those left behind. But personally, I'm curious about No. 19.
Michael Kors Michael is also surefire hit (unless you've got a floral-hater on your hands), real easy on the nose but very pretty. Sexy tuberose with the warming touch of incense is attractive to both men and women. Though Serge Lutens Tubéreuse Criminelle is undeniably the most poetic representation of tuberose, it is not widely available (I'd have gotten myself a bottle by now if it were). Michael is ubiquitous, but not necessarily common, so it makes a very safe gift.


Oddly enough, I hear very little about this gem, and yet everyone approves of it. Its composition is abstract—vodka, ginger, iris, white musk, dark chocolate—but somehow the juxtaposition of edible-inedible is really effective. Mostly it is a powdery, crystalline musk, sweetened by cocoa, with a touch of the iris peeking through. It is a haughtier, more mature perfume than Michael Kors Michael, more go-thither than come-hither, like the closed-off attitudes of a big city.

Not everyone likes flowers, and for women (or men) who prefer citrus (Though spice/woods are more to my taste, I figure citrus has more fans.), Annick Goutal Eau d'Hadrien has all the charm of a Mediterranean citrus grove, a shimmer of scent not unlike the haze of a mirage, complete with aromatic herbs crushed underfoot.

Burberry Touch for Men is a good masculine crowd pleaser, touching delicately on aquatic, woodsy, spicy, and musky notes without overdoing it. Very clean and sexy, without the animalic cologne reek or the banal soapiness that typifies "cheap" scents.

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The Mnemonic Sense: Urban
Posted by Dain, Sunday, October 28, 2007 2:38 PM (Eastern)


This was inspired by a quote I once heard about Coco Mademoiselle in a magazine: "This is a city perfume." It struck me as incredibly apt, because occasionally, you do want to wear something sophisticated and aloof. Hence, BVLGARI Blv Notte pour Femme, the only serious contender, in spite of the many offerings of the market. An "abstract gourmand", it certainly owes much to the forerunner in the group, Thierry Mugler Angel. The notes are disharmonious in the imagination—vodka, ginger, musk, iris, dark chocolate—but it is the musk that dominates, not the snuggly, almost floral skinscent of Egyptian musk, nor the deeply animalic tones of civet, but a powdery, crystalline musk, like the finest fleur de sel. I think it was a wise idea to bring the musk into prominence, with iris as a lesser accompaniment, as it carries the others so seamlessly, before it dries down into a bitter-chocolate-and-musk finish. I find my friends, who occasionally root through my collection for inspiration, have been buying this too. One even wears the masculine version (though there isn't much difference). Also in consideration: Chanel No. 19 (I'm not sure if those aldehydes are very "pastoral", I currently own Allure which is easier to get your hands on).

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Beauty Notes: When You Are Young...
Posted by Dain, Wednesday, August 22, 2007 3:12 AM (Eastern)

Above: A clip from Heathers (1988)... Lo, she's scribbling in her diary with a monocle and a bottle of vodka at her side. It's very clever how they bounce back and forth between extreme childishness and very adult themes.

Everyone has an opinion on how to spend the golden coin of youth, the most liquid of all assets. Everyone, that is, except the young themselves. It's all very confusing and infinitely self-absorbed, but I suppose when you are trying to find yourself you've gotta be that way, though it doesn't always show people at their best. Teen angst in a nutshell. Is this why we desire youth so much? That feeling of urgency that comes from hinging your existence on concerns so immediate and unmeasured? What is it that Stephen Dedalus' mother tells him to find when he offs to Paris at the end of A Portrait of the Artist as a Young Man? Here, I found it: "She prays now, she says, that I may learn in my own life and away from home and friends what the heart is and what it feels. Amen. So be it. Welcome, O life, I go to encounter for the millionth time the reality of experience and to forge in the smithy of my soul the uncreated conscience of my race." Yes, that is the secret desire of adolescence, Joyce said it best. And once you fail to find it? The return home*. Where the heart is.

There is fashion targeted at youth, which is surprisingly limited. Then, there is fashion targeted at adults, which worships youth. High fashion isn't really for teenagers, and had I the opportunity to dress for high school again, I'd favor brands like A.P.C. (expensive, but my current obsession), Lucky Brand, American Apparel (for no-nonsense basics), and the occasional treat from Anthropologie—cool, comfortable, with a certain je ne sais quoi. When it comes to accessories: jewelry should be quiet, an understated schoolgirlish bag instead of a backpack (I cheated here and used Miu Miu, as it's a good example), and flat or low-heeled shoes of good quality (Repetto Faust is demure yet still full of personality; they have a silver that's very appealing). Casuals should be stylish and well made, appropriate for a young girl but no less useful as she grows older. Even on the young, I dislike throwaway clothes. Clothing may be consumable, but style is an evolution throughout life, and there's no reason why your wardrobe can't reflect that.


Makeup should be fresh and simple. Concealer for acne and undereye circles (Almay Amazing Lasting is excellent, if they still make it), pretty, pretty blush (Becca Beach Tint is easy to use, flattering on a range of skintones, and can be used on lips, too), mascara (such as Maybelline Full & Soft), subtle lipcolor (Kiehl's Golden Berry Lipgloss is lovely on just about everyone). Sheer shimmers for eyes add something special to the everyday look. A slick of liner (I've chosen a flattering dark brown here) adds instant maturity to a babyface, but not in a vulgar way (as sometimes smoky eyes are). The worst thing is to be complicated about it; might as well take advantage of youth while you have it.

I think BVLGARI makes excellently understated perfumes. They're not the "same ole thing" that everyone else is wearing, but easy to appreciate (without mustiness or overwhelming complexity that's lost on untrained noses). Blv Notte (a crystalline musk brought about to rich perfection through ginger, iris, and bitter chocolate) is one my favorites, Bvlgari Black (soft spices and black tea), Eau Parfumée Thé Vert (crisp green tea with substance), and Pour Femme (soft sweet white florals).


Above all, youth is a time to acquire good habits. Skincare basics, in particular (the basics: cleanser from Cetaphil, scrub from Clean & Clear, and sunscreen from Olay). I recommend Clarins Lotus Oil as moisturizer to balance (flakes and shine both) the skin in a healthy way, and Kiehl's Blue Herbal line is excellent for acne. It is also a time of experimentation, to find what suits, to hone the ability to recognize what is good, what is not, though honestly, one's 20s may be better for that. When you are young, dress simply and well, your greatest ornament is the bloom of youth.

*Ulysses. What a clever man he is. I hate him!

Cosmetics images courtesy (at least, the cosmetics) from instyle.com.

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Beauty Notebook SEPTEMBER 2006: School Days
Posted by Dain, Friday, September 08, 2006 10:21 AM (Eastern)

SPONSORED by:



I had a hard time choosing the theme this month, but finally I had to settle on this one.

Solipsism is a natural tendency of people who think too much, but a whole school of them turns that tendency into an art form, with its own implicit rules and regulations. Simple eccentricity is transformed into an elaborate performance. For example, one of the most fashionable things is to deprecate Yale, but to other Yalies, only. To others, you simply, embarrassedly, murmur, "It's great...", looking very obviously away so that the recipient picks up on the hint that perhaps they're not getting the whole picture.

This is, of course, very silly. At root, I really do love this place. Every place is a mixture of good and bad qualities. It's cold and rigid and awkward, and competitive, full of bullshit, and judgemental, but it's true that there is a level of mental stimulation in everyday conversation that I do honestly find hard to find. People are smart, whatever else they may be. That, I'll miss.

And it's also just beautiful. Which to me, is a reason unto itself. This is my 'dorm' room, below:
That's my little brother and sister.

This list, therefore, is all about little somethings. A mix of everyday essentials, subtle enhancements, emergency fix-its (late nights and midterms take their toll), and little luxuries to make a home away from home. Even if you're not university-bound, however, this is still a great shopping list for any homebody; it does justice to all; everything's flattering and wearable and easy to use.

Good Home Co. Pure Grass Laundry Detergent $25: Turn a weekly chore into an everyday luxury. Even during the drear months of a New England winter, the scent of Pure Grass—of cut grass and sunlight and balmy breezes—wafting from your fresh linens will bring back summer. Your laundry will smell so fresh that you'll look forward to doing your laundry just to sink your nose into the wonderful scent. You won't be able to stop sniffing. A word to the wise: buy the big 64-oz bottles, they are only $5 more expensive, but almost twice as much product! (Even if the small bottles are more stylish.)
Kevyn Aucoin Liquifuschia The Moist Creamy Glow $24: Toasty tan blushes are all very well, but my pick for universal color is a bright, garish fuschia. Don't be alarmed by the intensity of the color: applied sheerly, the color picks up the creaminess of the skin, perks up sallow, tired skin, and gives you a glow that looks natural, not overdone. Looks especially good on yellow skintones. Like all other Kevyn Aucoin products, The Moist Creamy Glow is a superb product, with a waxy texture that disappears into the skin for a glow-from-within effect. A good blush makes you look instantly better. I want them all now!
Sue Devitt Northern Lights Balanced Sheer Lipstick $20: I don't understand. I must have a dozen of these shades. They're essentially the same color, but I keep buying them! Every time I open my makeup drawer, there are dozens more! It's like they breed! This is a common complaint among makeup junkies everywhere: the same shade of lipstick multiplying in one's stash. Why do we buy the same shade over and over again? My answer: because, over time, and over many, many lipsticks, we figure out what looks good on us, and learn to detect the subtle distinctions within that particular color family, all automatically. You get to sample diversity while basking in the assurance that it looks good, no matter what. My particular vice goes the way of roses: red roses and pink roses, even the stainy blackcurrant stain of dried roses. Hence Northern Lights, part of the Fall 2006 color story by Sue Devitt, Viking Voyage, a warm, sheer salmon pink, matte but with gold and silver sparkles (all at once!). I had to have it.
Fresh Lotus Eye Gel $48: Looking haggard is de rigueur 'round campus (come visit during finals and you'll get it). When it comes to skin, no place shows this more visible than the eyes: shadows, wrinkles, puffiness. Enter Fresh Lotus Eye Gel, which is emollient enough for the delicate skin under eyes, but not so greasy that concealer slips and slides over it. Pop it in the fridge to make it refreshingly cool, and thank me in time.
NARS Push Eyeliner $25 and NARS Bengali Eye Shadow Single $21: While mascara is what most women deem "most essential" (with good reason), I've chosen eyeliner, instead. Why? It's got more versatility. With liquid eyeliner, you can make sex-kitten bedroom eyes, à la Marilyn Monroe. With smudgy kohl, you can give yourself a Cleopatra-eque smoky eyes. Bright colors are easy to wear in the form of eyeliner, so that even the most timid of gentil ladyes can venture forth with periwinkle or violet. But best of all is when eyeliner is natural, with a flat eyelining brush, like this fantastic one from NARS. It's subtle enhancement to one's eye color, lending definition to eyes, and lushifying lashes. Just blend the pigment-rich eyeshadow (here, I've chosen a looks-good-on-everyone dark brown with plummy tones) into the lash line, and you just look... instantly better, not made up.
Bvlgari BLV Notte pour Femme EDP $60: You just need to get to know BLV Notte better. When first you meet BLV Notte, it engages in olfactory theatrics: ginger, vodka, and dark chocolate. The chocolate note is rich, not sugary, and the ginger is spicy but crystalline (and I don't like ginger). But within ten to fifteen minutes, this aggression fades, into something like musky iris and velvety cocoa powder, and for most of its life, is nothing more than a glorious 'skin scent', rich and spare, cold and hot, sweet and musky, all at once. It's subtle, but sexy, like the way I would have dreamed Thierry Mugler's Angel to have smelled (except that Angel smells like cat piss on me). BLV Notte is incredibly seductive, I can see this being an incredible man-magnet, but it's cozy at the same time, so a snuggly sort of man, if you please.
Awake Vital Express $68: Tired skin is anything but radiant, clear, and healthy. The cure-all answer to dull, spotty (and aging) skin is vitamin C, which, when effective, forages free-radicals and reverses sun damage, as well lightening scars and spots, and working as a sort of anti-bacterial agent. The trouble is, of course, that vitamin C is highly unstable and loses its efficacy within a very short period of time. Awake Vital Express solves that problem, because it comes dry, so that all of its potency is retained until you apply it to your skin. I don't use this every day, but on occasion, just to effect a 'glow'.
L'Occitane Shea Butter $36: It may strike you as obscene, to buy a tin of shea butter at such prices, but if you've dry skin, it's a veritable miracle worker (it's my favorite lip balm!). There are a score of does-it-all balms out there, from Elizabeth Arden Eight-Hour Cream to Jing Jang Creme to Vaseline to Smith's Rosebud Salve, meant to target everything from elbows to heels to cuticles to lips to hair to knees—whatever is dry and sensitive—but I favor this silky stuff. It's simple and gentle, fragrance free, luxe, 100% pure, and it comes in a travel-friendly, stylish container. It's good for you, everywhere. Try the little tin ($8) for lip balm!
Kevyn Aucoin The Sensual Skin Enhancer Foundation $45: SSE, as this product is fondly called among addicts, is not really a foundation, though it certainly could be used as such (using a sponge for sheerest application, or mixed with moisturizer). It is so pigmented that it works better as concealer, and then, in the TINIEST amounts. And I do mean, TINY. A dollop the size of a grain of rice is sufficient for most. Dab it on with a point concealer brush, then blend by gently patting with your finger, and that's it! Though the jar is tiny, for $42, you'll get a lot of mileage from a product so concentrated. My perfect shade: SX 05.



Be sure to check out my reviews in our Online Beauty Reviews for more detailed information about these products!

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