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Beauty Notes: Skincare Thoughts Posted by Dain, Wednesday, May 28, 2008 7:34 AM (Eastern) The tactics of the skincare industry can sometimes border on organized crime (ever meet its associates, acne and aging?), but in truth skincare isn't that complicated. In fact, if you overload on products, you skin may react adversely: chemicals may burn, over-cleansing may result in hyperactive oil glands, botanicals may cause a rash, rich emollients may break you out. Simplicity is best. It takes at least a month ascertain whether a product is going to work for you (though it takes considerably less time to find that it doesn't work for you), so patience is key, as is an acceptance of your skin's limitations: miracles are for saints, not skincare. You don't want to correct your skin, but normalize it, so that it can take care of itself. ![]() I like to keep my cleansers basic, preferably gentle and non-foaming like Cetaphil ($12), to which I always seem to return, even when I foray into something as nice as Primavera Gentle Cleansing Fluid (too expensive and dries out my skin). I also reasoned that an eye makeup remover would be useful, because then I wouldn't need to rub at delicate skin, but I haven't really touched my tester of Lancôme Bi-Facil ($26) (though I've worn very little makeup of late). For an occasional pick me up, I love Refining Exfoliating Cleanser ($42), the rare exfoliant that does not burn nor abrade my skin. It now comes in double the size for $60, which should last me a whole year. It's a quick and easy routine, a couple of basics for cleansing and moisturizing and a couple of botanical-based performers that subtly refine the skin. It's all my skin requires. I should add that I have my skin is sensitive, and ranges from normal in the summer and dry in the winter, and I rarely break out. Labels: cetaphil, embryolisse, jurlique, primavera, skin
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Beauty Notes: When You Are Young... Posted by Dain, Wednesday, August 22, 2007 3:12 AM (Eastern) Everyone has an opinion on how to spend the golden coin of youth, the most liquid of all assets. Everyone, that is, except the young themselves. It's all very confusing and infinitely self-absorbed, but I suppose when you are trying to find yourself you've gotta be that way, though it doesn't always show people at their best. Teen angst in a nutshell. Is this why we desire youth so much? That feeling of urgency that comes from hinging your existence on concerns so immediate and unmeasured? What is it that Stephen Dedalus' mother tells him to find when he offs to Paris at the end of A Portrait of the Artist as a Young Man? Here, I found it: "She prays now, she says, that I may learn in my own life and away from home and friends what the heart is and what it feels. Amen. So be it. Welcome, O life, I go to encounter for the millionth time the reality of experience and to forge in the smithy of my soul the uncreated conscience of my race." Yes, that is the secret desire of adolescence, Joyce said it best. And once you fail to find it? The return home*. Where the heart is. ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() I think BVLGARI makes excellently understated perfumes. They're not the "same ole thing" that everyone else is wearing, but easy to appreciate (without mustiness or overwhelming complexity that's lost on untrained noses). Blv Notte (a crystalline musk brought about to rich perfection through ginger, iris, and bitter chocolate) is one my favorites, Bvlgari Black (soft spices and black tea), Eau Parfumée Thé Vert (crisp green tea with substance), and Pour Femme (soft sweet white florals). ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() *Ulysses. What a clever man he is. I hate him! Cosmetics images courtesy (at least, the cosmetics) from instyle.com. Labels: almay, APC, beauty notes, becca, bobbi brown, bvlgari, cetaphil, clarins, clean and clear, film, kiehl's, lucky brand, max factor, maybelline, miu miu, olay, repetto Beauty Notes: I think I have summer skincare routine down Posted by Dain, Wednesday, August 15, 2007 1:41 AM (Eastern) It's fun to go on a minimalist rampage because it shows you what you do need to buy, and what you need to find to complete your stash. makeup remover Lancôme Bi-Facil, because it is probably the most effective yet gentle on the market, even after all these years. When you wear eyeliner on the inner rim, you need some extra help. And rubbing and scrubbing is pretty bad for your eyes. Haven't bought this yet, I should. cleanser Cetaphil Gentle Skin Cleanser, of course. I don't know why I ever stray. treatment/moisturizer I'm not quite sure why I like Jurlique Herbal Recovery Gel so much; it smells like fermenting roses (but for some reason, I rather like the smell), and it's too light for anything but hot summer days, but a antioxidant-packed gel in place of an occlusive night cream appeals to me. It makes my skin look healthy and hydrated, so it's perfect year round, but it'll need extra in the winter. It's expensive, but I think it's worth it. (After all, I've spent more on creams, no?) exfoliant I have no luck with exfoliants. Chemical ones burn my skin, physical scrubs abrade (even baking soda, alas). I've tried the non-scrub almond meal thing, and it was the worst of all, I had a nasty allergic reaction. As a final solution, I'm curious about Primavera Refining Exfoliating Cleanser, because it uses sugar enzymes and the press-and-roll method and the webmaster is singing its praises. $42 seems expensive, though. The major gap is a rich winter cream, or something like, for when my skin gets dry. But what? It's impossible to test now. Will Burt's Bees Repair Serum be enough? I should, in any case, use up the ones I have (Fresh Rice Face Cream, La Prairie Cellular Day Cream). Should I try the market standard, Kiehl's Ultra Facial Moisturizer? Or an old favorite, like Better Botanicals Dandelion Moisturizer (this is too light, even paired with the Jurlique, I think) or Decleor Baume Essentiel? Or should I continue to explore Jurlique, the Calendula Cream seems to be a huge favorite? Or something entirely new (Embryolisse Lait-Creme Concentre, Dr. Hauschka Rose Day Cream Light, La Roche-Posay Toleriane)? Tricky, tricky. On another note, I wish I could have a quad with all my eyecolors in it. It would be nice to have them all in one compact, like Clé de Peau. The colors, from left to right, would be: a pewter like Shu Uemura ME Brown 850, an ethereal lilac like Chanel Lavande, a silvered champagne like NARS All About Eve, and finally a black gel liner like MAC Blacktrack for the tiny slot. And then I'd just need MAC Teddy around, and instead of cosmetics all over the place—how shall I say it?—'twould be concise, minimal, compact. Eh, one can dream. Labels: beauty notes, cetaphil, cle de peau, jurlique, lancome, primavera, skin Beauty Notes: The Minimalist Stash Posted by Dain, Thursday, August 09, 2007 12:07 AM (Eastern) ![]() ![]() Above: On the left, an everyday look, naturally pretty but polished, rosy blush and lips, subtle definition on eyes with a defined brow (similar to mine). On the right, full-on glamour with red lips AND smoky eyes, though personally I just wear one or the other. Here's what I've written thus far, so all the articles are together, philosophy and in-depth guides: A Guide to Minimalism (The Philosophy) A Guide to Minimalism (A Politicized Rant) The Minimalist Skin The Minimalist Face The Minimalist Lip The Minimalist Eye (brows) The Minimalist Eye (lashes) The Minimalist Eye (define) The Minimalist Eye (depth) The Minimalist Eye (wash) The Minimalist Hair The first trick to minimalism, as I outline in the first article listed above, is founded on two basic principles, perfection and complexity, in order to ensure maximum versatility (the more versatile a product, the more uses it has, therefore reducing the number of products you need). The second trick (which is expressed in greater detail in the second article), is a question of need: examine well your blood*. Consider the reasons why you buy products, whether it is out of insecurity, the pleasures of novelty, or simple compulsion. I'd be the first to say that shopping should be fun, not serious; after all, many of my holy grails have been impulse buys, while others still make feeble first impressions but earn their place in my stash—you can't plan this stuff out, really, it's more a matter of experimentation. However, if you have a problem with overshopping and hoarding, or are simply sick of too much crap, then it's good to learn how to become a smart shopper, rather than a compulsive one. The third trick is what I wish to explain in this conclusion (about time! I'm ready to move onto something new!). And this is a holistic matter, i.e. the sum total of the individual products working together, however complex they may be on their own (explained in the subsequent articles). A pretentious term for it might be, the synergy of a stash. This is important because products are static, while stashes are dynamic, and thus reflect the owner's personality. The synergy of a stash is even more important to a minimalist, because when you have fewer products, it is particularly essential that they work together well. Let me explain how this works. Skincare works together; your cleanser, your exfoliant, your sunscreen, your moisturizer, and whatever treatments, all come together to improve your skin. Your skincare regimen works in combination with face products, for obvious reasons, as the better your skin, the fewer products you need. Among face products, your perfect blush will be your guide to choosing lipcolors (though when it comes to application, you should apply your blush last to make sure you don't overdo it). When it comes to a "look", the colors and methods you choose must work together, i.e. a smoky eye will demand muted blush and lips, while red lips will pair with subtle effects like highlighter as blush and tightlining. Specfic looks will determine specific color products, and vice versa. And of course, the products you use will determine the tools you need. Within a stash, the products support and complement each other—ultimately, this is what I mean by synergy. And so, here is mine: SKIN I have sensitive skin that breaks out rarely, though I have some clogged pores (minimal, though). It is normal in the summer, humidity will make it somewhat oily, but in the dead of winter it is rough and parched. I wear eye makeup that can be somewhat difficult to remove, because of inner rim lining, so instead of risking damage to the delicate skin around the eyes, I have decided to make eye makeup remover a part of my regular routine. Cetaphil Gentle Skin Cleanser is my tried and true cleanser. I've not had any success finding a good exfoliant that doesn't do horrible things to my skin, so I think I may just stick to a time-tested Korean trick, a viscose cloth ($0.99 for two, and it lasts longer than any product). I hate how sunscreens feel, so I don't wear any, which is very bad, but can't be helped, I'm picky. Likewise, I'm too picky to have found my holy grail moisturizer yet, though I've found any number of good ones. For summer, I prefer Jurlique Herbal Recovery Gel alone for its subtle brightening, healthifying effects, but it will make a great breathable night cream in the winter under Burt's Bees Repair Serum. As far as treatments are concerned, extreme dryness and sensitivity are the major concern, for which Burt's Bees Repair Serum is excellent (it also doubles as eye cream). FACE I take very good care of my skin, so I need little extra help in this area. For most days, Stephane Marais Perfect Concealer and NARS Sin are perfectly adequate. They're the small improvements that make a huge difference; they make me look fresh. My only complaints are that I'll have to replace my undereye concealer with the much more expensive Clé de Peau, and I wish Sin were a smidgen less strong (less shimmer would be great, too—sparkly blush is silly). When I want more polish, I don't wear foundation or tinted moisturizer (which feel heavier, and subdue the glow natural to skin) but powder, Caron Poudre Peau Fine, which adds light to the face and very subtly blurs imperfections. As a blush alternative for red lips (berry blush is too strong), I use a fleshy shimmer shadow to give a glow to the skin (no need for an extra product). A blush brush is required, I'm thinking of investing in Shu Uemura. LIPS This is perhaps where my fine talk about complexity and versatility best comes into play: NARS Gothika Lip Gloss, a rich, sophisticated burnished rose with berry undertones (it is a grown up version of my first favorite lipcolor, Loco Cocoa). It's got similar tones to my perfect blush, so it's automatically flattering and ever appropriate. It dresses up, dresses down, matches everything, doesn't matter. It is true that there are many other flattering shades, but I've realized that they pale in comparison to Gothika, and if that's the case, why bother? There's one situation that Gothika fails to cover, and that is the queen of lipsticks, red. For that, I adore Giorgio Armani Armanisilk #46 Bordeaux. Hey, and lip balm, Dr. Hauschka. EYES Kevyn Aucoin The Precision Brow and Tweezerman Slant takes care of brows. A fleshy shimmer is essential, and mine is the silvered peachy-champagne of NARS All About Eve, though I'd rather find a single of this shade (I don't use the other). This is easily paired with tightlining, I'm thinking MAC Blacktrack Fluidline, which makes lashes look lush and dense, plus L'Oréal Carbon Black Voluminous Mascara. These are both "natural" (not makeupy) techniques for every day, but they make my dark eyes glow. As a rule, I favor minimal eye makeup, at least in appearance; in practice, it's a bit of a routine. If I desire more definition, MAC Teddy Eye Kohl is gorgeous and easy to wear: a smoky line turns that glow into a fire. If I wish for depth, I trade All About Eve for the pretty pewter of Shu Uemura ME Brown 850, and for an ethereal, fairy-like look, I alternate a soft lilac, like Chanel Lavande Soft Touch. I need the following tools: Shu Uemura Eyelash Curler, Tweezerman Slant Tweezers, Shu Uemura 13G Natural Brush, NARS Push Eyelining Brush, and Kevyn Aucoin Small Eyeshadow Flat Tip Brush. My "everyday face"—undereye concealer, rose-plum blush, rose-plum lipcolor, fleshy highlight, tightlining in black and black mascara, defined brows—is easily modified. All I have to do is add a smudge of kohl here or switch in a colorful shadow there. I don't experiment much, so this much variation satisfies me. When I wear red lipstick (and this is what I mean by a product that determines a look), I change in the fleshy highlight as blush and alternate the pewter for some depth. When I want smoky eyes (and this is what I mean by a look that determines the products), it's a complex layering of All About Eve, as highlight, ME Brown 850, to soften liner and add depth, and MAC Blacktrack Fluidline, as regular liner this time, smudged a bit, with minimal lips and cheeks (highlight and lip balm, or Gothika really sheer). I also intend to keep NARS Cleo and MAC Powersurge Eye Kohl, for the rare occasion that I get bored with these looks. *A Midsummer Night's Dream, Act 1 Scene 1, I think, Theseus to Hermia. Labels: beauty notes, burt's bees, caron, cetaphil, chanel, dr. hauschka, giorgio armani, jurlique, kevyn aucoin, l'oreal, mac cosmetics, minimalism, nars, philosophy, shu uemura, stephane marais
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Beauty Notes: The Minimalist Skin Care Posted by Dain, Wednesday, August 01, 2007 12:58 AM (Eastern) ![]() The Minimalist Eye is on hold for a couple days until my sister gets here and I can take some proper pictures. I can't find good pictures of liners and shadows on the web, so I'll do skin. I didn't want to do this first, as I've talked about the importance of skin before, as well as how to go about setting up a good skincare regime, so I will just outline the basics for your benefit. Good skin depends on many variables, from humidity levels to hormones to diet to personal habits to age, in addition to the products you use. The hype that surrounds skincare is enormous, and justly so: good skin is the second to a beautiful (the first is symmetry). If you do not think this is true, look at every celebrity that has ever existed; not a single one has bad skin, even if tastes in weight, hair color, and so forth, have changed over the centuries. In their quest for a perfect complexion, people tend to forget how complex an organ the skin is, one honed over millions of years to take care of itself, which is why so many of us try to force it to be something it's not. The companies, you will notice, have been quick to take advantage of this. But I will tell you the truth, as I have naught to sell but advice: there is no such thing as a miracle. Believe me, your skin will look far better if you understand and accept its limitations, and learn to live with it. This is why maintenance, a regime that promotes the optimal health of your skin, should be your primary concern, while treatment is only secondary, when skin misbehaves. Maintenance promises no miracles, but better to be content with what you have than to overcompensate. You can actually damage your skin if you use too much of a good thing, or reduce its longterm effects (this is especially true of anti-acne products). Here's how to set up a maintenance regime:
Me, I stick to Cetaphil, and will add Lancôme Bi-Facil to my cleansing regime. A gentle exfoliant twice a week, when I find a good one. Depending on my skin's needs, I like the idea of Jurlique Herbal Recovery Gel, Burt's Bees Repair Serum, and Embryolisse Lait-Crème Concentré as my treatment/hydration arsenal, flexible enough to address all of my needs. PRODUCT COUNT: Six, eye makeup remover, cleanser, exfoliant, summerweight moisturizer, winter cream, sensitivity/hydration/eye treatment. Labels: awake, beauty notes, better botanicals, bliss, burt's bees, cetaphil, decleor, dr. hauschka, johnson's, jurlique, kiehl's, la prairie, LUSH, minimalism, olay, remede, shiseido, shu uemura, skin The Perfect Stash: Part 1 (skin) Posted by Dain, Friday, March 23, 2007 12:22 AM (Eastern) Perhaps you've heard the term "holy grail": it means a product that is perfection itself, and like the real holy grail, almost impossible to find*. A perfect stash takes that concept to a systemic level: a collection of holy grails, none of which compete with each other, and form an aesthetic whole. It is an interesting exercise, especially if you're a makeup enthusiast like me with little to do (it is still vacation yet), but it tends to be little more than an exercise. You never really attain a perfect stash; it is exponentially more difficult than finding a holy grail. But, it's fun. So here we go. I've put the current product in rotation first, under "candidates". CLEANSER requirements: non-foaming milky/lotion formulation, gentle, removes makeup passably well, no residue left on skin, inexpensive candidates: Cetaphil Gentle Skin Cleanser, I've tried many others, but always I return to this—truly, it is perfect, though it doesn't remove stubborn makeup (but I don't wear stubborn makeup) TREATMENT requirements: desensitizes, hydrates, brightens, and clarifies, in that order candidates: Decleor Aromaessence Rose D'Orient, which I am just starting to try now, as the Biotherm Biosensitive Anti-Redness Concentrate has been discontinued. My skin is a little troubled now, so it's a good time to test it out. I'm really not yet sure about it. Maybe plain jojoba oil would be better. MOISTURIZER requirements: gentle enough for sensitive skin, unpretentious (I hate spurious claims), MUST smell good (I am very sensitive to anything I consider noxious), preferably a cream for normal/dry skin (the perfect weight for layering) but nongreasy (so it wears well under makeup), doesn't break me out, if expensive, has low cost per use candidates: La Prairie Cellular Day Cream, Sisley Creme Reparatrice (I have a sample, but I'm thinking I don't like the scent), Decleor Harmonie Gentle Soothing Cream, Better Botanicals Dandelion Moisturizer, Kiehl's Ultra Facial Moisturizer, Body Time Lavender Cream, La Prairie Cellular Time Release Moisture Intensive, Sisley Botanical Intensive Night Cream, Creme de la Mer, Fresh Rice Face Cream, Nuxe Creme Fraiche Riche, Nuxe Creme Nirvanesque Enrichie, Kerstin Florian Rejeuvenating 24-Hour Moisture Creme EXFOLIANT requirements: most exfoliants are way too rough for me, whether they be physical or chemical, so something very, very gentle, that unplugs my pores candidates: Jurlique Face Wash Cream, which I have never tried... I'm thinking the Decleor Aromaessence seems to exfoliate well enough on its own, though—perhaps it means something that I've never been able to use an exfoliant successfully So the final skincare stash? How minimalist is this? Cetaphil Gentle Skin Cleanser Decleor Aromaessence Rose D'Orient La Prairie Cellular Day Cream *I'm not sure, but I think I coined the phrase, really long ago. Of course, everyone uses it now, so it really doesn't matter. Labels: cetaphil, decleor, jurlique, la prairie, skin
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