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Fragrance is above all a matter of personal taste, one woman's timeless, classic perfume may be another woman's poison. So rather than confine ourselves to a more practical approach, as we did in The Beauty Primer, we have taken the liberty of corresponding them to the months of the year, insofar that they correspond to images and moods associated with the seasons.

SPRING
Guerlain Jicky ($105) has enough oriental decadence to brighten dreary March, but a bright touch of lavender looks forward to full-blown spring. As delicate as gossamer and as fresh as the dawn, Guerlain Après L'Ondée (£62), with its accord of rainwashed violets and carnations, wrapped around a heliotrope core, is the embodiment of April showers. Montale Crystal Flowers ($95) blends the flowers of May, pink roses and silvery lily of the valley, with the rich aroma of ambergris.

SUMMER
Sunshiny, white floral L'Artisan Parfumeur La Chasse Aux Papillons ($95) is ideal for June: fresh linen drying in the breeze, the Southern charm of honeysuckle on the vine, and sundresses at a wedding. Soaring July temperatures call for crisp hesperides like Christian Dior Eau Sauvage ($48)—the classic cologne purified into its essence: sunny lemon, aromatic rosemary, soapy jasmine (hedione) and rich sweaty coumarin for the drydown. And for languid August days, we adore polished, down-to-earth Frédéric Malle Vetiver Extraordinaire ($140), with its gleaming woods and the highest concentration of vetiver oil on the market.

AUTUMN
September's fiery foliage would pair excellently with the dusky, peachy glow of Guerlain Mitsouko ($107). To stave off the October chills, we turn to a stern but exquisite leather like Chanel Cuir de Russie ($175 at Chanel stores only). Bitter and bleak November is well matched by the considerable bite of the resinous balsams and peppery carnations in YSL Opium ($70).

WINTER
Creamy roses and incense make Caron Parfum Sacré equally festive and solemn for December gatherings. The weather outside is frightful, but Jean Patou Joy ($158) is so delightful, the classic aldehydic floral won't overpower everyone who's trapped indoors in January. The art of seduction: Guerlain Habit Rouge ($65), with its marriage of dry citrus and animalic vanilla, is our pick for February.

You may likely find most of these for far cheaper at online discount stores, but in the interest of permanent links, we've cited prices from the most reputable vendors.

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Labels: caron, chanel, cream of the crop, dior, frederic malle, guerlain, jean patou, l'artisan parfumeur, montale, perfume

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Posted by Dain, Sunday, July 13, 2008 9:24 AM (Eastern)

FORMULAE
brow product Even though they provide crucial structure to the face, the brows are easily forgotten and neglected, because they require some sort of arcane knowledge or uncanny instinct. That's why we like brow guru Anastasia Soare's Anastasia's Brow Pencil ($22)—it does all the work for us.
mascara Technological advances in mascara appear as regularly as the tide, but the classic L'Oréal Voluminous ($6.99) was good enough for Kevyn Aucoin, and it's good enough for us. We are particularly gratified by how the Carbon Black shade is such a dense, pure black at a drugstore price.
best overall eyeshadows Hopeless addicts of NARS Eye Shadow Duos ($32), unite! They come in the most inventive color combinations and the quality and depth of each shade is truly unmatched. No matter what the situation, there's a duo that works brilliantly on everyone.
best overall eyeliners Whether you like the soft and smudgy Kohls ($14.50) or the control and longevity of the Fluidlines ($15) we find that MAC offers the best formulae, in the richest, most complex colors.

NEUTRALS
We believe anyone can use the following shades without fear, for soft, naturalistic looks that range from casual to polished.
fleshtone highlight Everyone can benefit from a soft, unobtrusive shimmer to open up the eye, and now Trish McEvoy's easy-to-apply, long-lasting Eye Base Essentials ($24) come with shimmer. There's a shade for just about everyone, from soft gold to silvery champagne.
pewter smoke The key to a perfectly executed smoky eye is not, in fact, black eyeliner, but a medium shimmer halfway between taupe and charcoal, like Chanel Safari Soft Touch Eyeshadow ($28.50), less harsh than a blue-based silver. It's the perfect neutral for adding depth to less dramatic looks, but for a true, smoke-is-rising effect, blend it over your liner (it'll work with most colors), diffused over the lid, to soften any harsh edges.
pigment-rich liner Most deeper shades, once applied, will disappoint you with their lack of pigment, but Trish McEvoy Eye Definers ($16) never will. There's classic Charcoal—not too blue, not too brown—that'll work on everyone, and plum-tinged chocolatey Deep Aubergine that we like especially on green or blue eyes, and Caribbean Blue, an exquisite midnight blue with hints of teal, is dynamite on brown eyes.
best palette Though we think Pati Dubroff has degraded this once flawless line (the work of Serge Lutens), it's hard to deny that Dior makes rather tempting palettes. The 5-Colour Eyeshadow in Tropical Light 409 ($54) has shades everyone might enjoy: some easy-wear-but-not-staid neutrals (pink pearl, taupey dove grey, bronze) and some colors to play with (soft celadon with delicate gold shimmer and silvery mint).

COLORS
We've had it with redundant and/or useless shades in quints and quads, for really delicious color, NARS duos ($32) satisfy our cravings. If you find the more aggressive shades difficult to wear, we highly recommend MAC Powersurge Eye Kohl as a fixative: the soft bronze makes the perfect liason between most pigments, and yet does not intrude on the eye (the perfect éminence grise), it provides a creamy base for the powders to grip.
Key Largo Like an elegant beach resort, it's a combination of svelte golden bronze and a peachy matte to highlight. Not much color in itself, and yet it makes other colors really shine: its warm shimmer is gorgeous on deeper skin tones, and you won't believe how much excitement it lends to blue or green eyes.
Rebecca Here's an experiment with color for fair complexions (sheer unto nonexistent on deeper skin tones, don't bother if you can't see your veins): a fine sunset of apricot-rose shimmer that highlights milky skin and fair eyes, and for a delicate contrast especially against the rich tones of red hair, a soft, spring green.
Jezebel It's hard to imagine a coloring that will reject this one—ethereal lilac and shimmering cognac—but it's especially flattering on green or light brown eyes in combination with light, warm skin. Simply pretty, like the smell of orange blossoms.
Habanera Full of surprising aggressions, a vivid metallic shot through with seafoam and a blackened plum infused with flecks of silver, we find that this particular duo is equal parts excitement and versatility, on deeper, cooler skin tones.
Underworld Everyone will find the sheer, subdued slate (it's softer than silver, but not as flat as grey) incredibly useful, while the teal-pewter shimmer is fit for an Atlantean mermaid.
Rated R Easily the most potent of eyeshadows: intense chartreuse flecked with gold, and vivid, cool blue with pink shimmer. And yet they are surprisingly wearable in spite of their acidity.

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Labels: anastasia, chanel, cream of the crop, l'oreal, lips, mac cosmetics, nars, trish mcevoy

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Posted by Dain, Saturday, July 12, 2008 12:01 AM (Eastern)

How do you choose the very best lipcolors? As with every single product, it's a subjective decision. In the past, magazines have taken the easy way out with "universals", shades that anyone may wear. Supposedly. You've heard of them—the 666*, Black Honey, and Dolce Vita—we don't even have to name the brands, do we? But we've noticed that women tend to gravitate towards the same kind of shade over and over again, we are particularists, not universalists. If you don't feel like wearing red lipstick, you're really never going to, so who are we to condescend with a "wearable" one? So, to delight the connoisseur of warm, soft pinks or the enthusiast for rich, sophisticated browns, we've searched for the most special incarnations of each.

OVERALL FORMULAE
best lipsticks We think Chanel has one of the nicest formulae on the market, creamy but light, whether you choose the classic Hydrabases ($27) and the ultra luxurious Rouge Allures ($30), plus the shades are fantastic—you'd be hard pressed not to find one that you love.
best lipglosses Neither too slippery nor too tacky, NARS Lip Gloss ($24) stands out amongst a million different glosses—unlike most, each generous tube is packed to the brim with shine and pigment both. And they don't smell like a candy store.
best lipliners We rely on Chanel for lipliners, too. The Precision Lip Definer ($28) is creamy enough to glide on easily, with a built-in brush to soften any harsh edges.

THE SUPERNATURALS easy-wearing and casual
Here's a shade that will really, truly work on anyone, regardless of whether you're warm or cool, dark or pale: Revlon Raisin Glaze SuperLustrous Lip Gloss ($6.49), the colors of the sunset (peach, rose, gold, red) sheered down and glossified. On deeper complexions, YSL Golden Gloss #8 Golden Blackcurrant ($28) is absolutely gorgeous, like syrupy cherries swirling in black tea, Russian style, and flecked with 24K gold. It works brilliantly on the pale, too, as a berry stain, it won't brighten uncomfortably like many berries. We are particularly fond of Laura Mercier Discretion ($22), for the quiet drama of a nude mouth—it's truly nude, but not washed out.

THE POLISHED rich and complex for a sophisticated lip
Chanel Hydrabase Moiré ($27) is as tender and warm as a bouquet of old-fashioned rosebuds, and yet it's not your sweet and simple pink—there's plenty of beige, apricot, and mauve too. Rich berries provide balance to cool, high-contrast coloring, and we're especially fond of NARS Gothika Lip Gloss ($24), a burnished raspberry. Like a mug of fine hot chocolate spiked with pepper, Chanel Mystery Rouge Allure ($30) isn't your standard brown, it's infused with reddish tones and bronze shimmer for an extra level of decadence.

THE DRAMATIC for a bold, look-at-me mouth
We think Besame Red Velvet ($18) is the greatest red of them all—such a vibrant, classic lip but softened by a touch of rose so it doesn't look harsh, and unlike many reds, has superior pigment in a creamy, not dry, base. We won't waste your time with popsicle-stain sheers for our choice of a bright: the hothouse fuschia of NARS Schiap ($24) is so bold it's almost toxic. As the name implies, Chanel Vamp ($27), the color of old blood stains on a Satanic altar, is fit for a brooding, silent-film queen.

* Am I the only one who's a little taken aback by the fact it's the number o' th' beast?

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Labels: besame, chanel, cream of the crop, laura mercier, lips, nars, revlon, ysl

4 comment(s)

July 12, 2008 12:43 AM, Elinor said...

Am I the only one who's a little taken aback by the fact it's the number o' th' beast?

Nope. I always have been, too.

July 12, 2008 3:44 AM, Dain said...

Hehe... I guess it's a bit silly of me.

July 12, 2008 10:16 AM, Carol said...

I was always mildly amused by it.
However, there is a street here in our subdivision where all the addresses start with 666**. Everyone refers to it as Devils Lane....

July 12, 2008 10:51 AM, Dain said...

There are people who think Reagan was the devil because his complete name is Ronald Wilson Reagan, or 666. That's a bit far-fetched for me (and in any case, I don't think W'n'W is particularly devilish), but it's fun to play around with.

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Posted by Dain, Thursday, July 03, 2008 12:03 AM (Eastern)

When I first got into makeup, back when the internet was only for geeks, Stila was the poshest, biggest thing around. I used to dream about which shades I'd own, all the elegantly nuanced shimmers like Holly Go Lightly, Diamond Lil, and Kitten. How much has changed in the intervening years, but old habits die hard, and I still cling to the practice of soft and complex shimmers. Boredom has driven me to acid brights (NARS Rated R and Schiap, not for the faint of heart), but I also find myself meditating on mattes, which strike me as a fresh look for summer. Strong and attention-grabbing, they are not, but it's a departure from the instinct towards brights that mark the season, like coral lips. It's more careful than that, and yet in the sticky humidity, cool, refined mattes are quite luxurious.

After all, there is nothing staid about these mattes (image taken from Make Up Your Mind). The colors are delicate but substantial, and what they lack in shimmer they make up in creamy, rich texture. In spite the matte finishes, she really glows. Concealer has been dabbed selectively on the darkest parts of the face—the corners of the eyes, the nose, and the mouth—but no foundation, just some light powder to smooth out the complexion. Candied pinks glow on the lips and cheeks, perhaps a little overdone on the blush, and well defined brows and lashes lend strength to the overall softness.

The main work is meticulously applied mattes in taupe and lilac (in this picture, it is the Marienbad duo), but this Chanel Les Mattes Divines Quad ($56) might do as well:

The milky pink might be applied all over, with the browned plum for contour and depth, and the satiny white to highlight, and the soft charcoal adds just a little definition at the lashline. And for the lips, a lovely sugary pink like Guerlain KissKiss in Rose Malicieux ($28), with a delicate dusting of gold and plummy undercurrents to make it especially rich, would be particularly lovely.

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Labels: chanel, guerlain, lookbook, nars

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Posted by Dain, Thursday, June 26, 2008 12:02 AM (Eastern)

Planning to travel this summer? Often mini beauty products aren't really up to snuff, but these pack quite a punch and won't take up too much room in your luggage.

Hotel dryers got you down? You can still get T3's top-of-the-line tourmaline technology downsized to a mere eleven ounces, with a handle that collapses for easy packing, two heat settings, universal outlet plug, and it comes in hot pink too. Even my long, thick hair, which normally takes three hours to air dry, require only ten minutes, and not a hint of damage. My sister and I agree, travel or no travel, The Overnight ($130) is the best blow dryer we've ever used.

The key to packing well is packing light, the last thing you want to worry about is "stuff". Streamline your make up with Chanel Multi-Use Make Up Palette ($85). It's got most everything you need, just throw in some mascara and concealer, and keep your makeup soft and simple. There's a warm, glowy blush that's just the thing for your vacation tan, and shimmery neutral eyeshadows that work on anyone, and succulent lipcolors for polish.

Airline restrictions are a drag, but Sophyto's Sample Kit ($25) is perfectly packable (one word of advice: I did not realize this, but the caps can be used again, just switch them around). There's everything you need, most of which are packed with more than 95% powerful organic ingredients, all in an aloe-vera base. There is the Ultra Mild Silken Cleanser, a gentle, non-foaming gel cleanser, the Purify & Energise Super Bioactive, a sort of cleansing water-cum-toner, perfect for removing grime after a day at the beach, the Polyphenol Skin Drops, Sophyto's antioxidant serum compounded from olive leaves, fermented red grapes, green and white tea, and apples, and some Normalising Day Face Moisturizer to layer over it for skin that's dehydrated from the sun. There's even some Purifying Active Mask to revive and exfoliate travel-stressed skin. Overall, I find that that Sophyto's products are very light on the skin, so if you are oily or want to avoid heavy products in a tropical climate, these will be perfect, and yet they are quite potent, with plenty of anti-oxidant botanicals and enzymes to polish the skin.

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Labels: beauty notebook, chanel, sophyto, T3

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Posted by Dain, Monday, June 16, 2008 12:00 AM (Eastern)

These are simply, my favorites, as they have coalesced for me. Most everything is fairly certain, but now that it's summer, I find myself craving something light and crisp, so I'm still exploring things at present.

Of all the fragrances I have ever, ever sniffed, Guerlain Mitsouko is the closest to utter perfection. The joy that rushes through me is almost visceral, but it is a serious kind of happiness—a serenity, if you will (Beinecke library, shown above). Every other perfume represents a moment in time, a shift in mood, and I do it largely for interest's sake (which isn't bad, I read for interest's sake too), but Mitsouko is the one perfume I wouldn't live without, so perfect is its resonance with, absurd as it sounds, my soul. Witty and luminescent, but characteristically reserved, it's the chypre for the ages.

Caron Parfum Sacré, modeled on both Caron Or et Noir and Chanel Bois des Îles, is what I'd wear for a seduction, for there was never such a comforting, tactile, bedroomy scent: a candlelit romance of creamy rose petals and incense (Myla ad, shown to right). All the same, it isn't the least bit vulgar, I sense it might wear just as pleasantly for the office, without resorting to the generic aldehydic florals that are usually suggested. There's a touch of festivity that's perfect for the winter holidays, and overall I tend to reserve it for special moments rather than quotidian use. It does not have much competition; most comfort scents tend to be gourmand, among them the strongest contender is the Italianate elegance of Fendi Theorema (strange coincidence that both images have girls holding kittens), but it is still no equal for the complexity of Parfum Sacré. The drydown resembles Lanvin Arpège, and for a moment I contemplated... but no, I've grown to like the vociferous antics of Parfum Sacré's top, not just the final sensuous embrace that hovers with such precious intimacy on the skin. It is uncharacteristic for me, most of my favorites are standoffish, but Parfum Sacré picks you up in a surge of quiet romance, always inviting you in, in, in.

I have long harbored the conviction that there is nothing more damning than popularity, contrary to popular opinion that it is exceedingly desirable. Three facts are certain: we all die, a mob is stupid, and everything else is uncertain. After all, what are celebrities, the winners of a species-wide popularity contest, but manufactured human beings, for us to worship and upon whom to pattern our spending habits? Consequently, I've been wary of YSL Opium—the hype and the corresponding ubiquity—I've actually smoked opium, this is just a perfume, so please, pretty please, give me a fucking break. (What an expression of multi-faceted depravity.) Now, when I began rooting around perfumes, my first ache was for a viciously edgy hyper-oriental, something to bring out the enfant terrible in me (Louise Brooks shown at left). To my great disappointment, it is usually just a clever marketing ploy, and all the established avant-garde were merely "pretty with bite", the most memorable being Robert Piguet Bandit and Caron Tabac Blond, while near everything else were spices on gourmand training wheels, only pretending. It was Caron Coup de Fouet that won out, a gorgeous blaze of fiery carnations and pepper, unmitigated spicy, but its expense and exclusivity ($120 for 1.7 oz, must be specially ordered from Caron boutique in NYC) bothered me. At last I attempted Opium, expecting a cliché. And? Wow. Wowee. That's the punishment I deserve for being such a raging snob: my perfect bitch perfume was sitting in my local mall this entire time.

Sometimes the perfumes you truly love grow upon you slowly, which was the case with Mitsouko and Parfum Sacré, but sometimes your reaction to them is instant. Such was the case with Guerlain Vol de Nuit. Though I love both iris and leather, and explored the offerings of both (together and singly), they have never been framed quite the right way for me. Who would have thought the perfect setting would be animalic Guerlinade? Vol de Nuit is unsmiling and solipsistic, but oh, such a diamond in the rough. It has a sinister soul, in spite of its crushing sophistication and confidence. I think of antiheroes whenever I wear it, characters you know are quite rotten but they're so charismatic you can't help but be fascinated: Hamlet, Humbert Humbert, Hannibal Lecter, and Satan himself, falling from the dewy bottom of heaven (Doré illustration, at right). A consummation of bitter and sweet, it has not only obviated my need for a leather perfume but also anything gourmand, though I do keep a bottle of my first favorite, Givenchy Organza Indécence, for nostalgia's sake. I do try to avoid anything sweet, it gives me a toothache after a while, and why wear a fragrance inspired by a dessert when I might choose a chypre? Only one has impressed enough to consider seriously, the divinely elegant fruit salad of Frédéric Malle Le Parfum de Thérèse, though it does bear similarity to Mitsouko.

I am not averse to florals, but most tend to say, in rather distinct tones, "I am woman!" Even the modest lily of the valley is considerably more femme than vetiver, a silent but implicit flirtation with those who surround you. A cloud of spices enthrall with intrigue, and an elegant chypre is coolly intelligent, but the best florals, however admirable their feats of construction, arouse simple responses—they smell good and classically feminine. Flowers play up feminine stereotypes, as if in these careful molecules lies the secret to our love. In Hermès Eau de Merveilles, she is a languid, bronze goddess, while in Guerlain L'Heure Bleue, she is a great queen in mourning, but whether you are a lady or a vamp, a girl or a woman, it is all the same idea, so one grand 'n' gorgeous bombshell of a floral is sufficiently multi-purpose for me: the fetishistic tuberose of Serge Lutens Tubéreuse Criminelle.

Finally, I need something fresh, but I'm still looking for mine. There's the floral transparence of Guerlain Après L'Ondée and the aldehydic iris-vetiver-rose of Chanel No. 19 and any number of citrusy colognes and the simple elegance of lavender from Caron Pour un Homme. We shall see what wins out, as I already own both Après L'Ondée and No. 19 and shouldn't be buying... *ahem* any more perfumes. (But who am I kidding? I like to spend my money.) I am really leaning towards a vetiver, Frédéric Malle Vétiver Extraordinaire or Le Labo Bergamote 22 (which is very vetivery in spite of the name) in particular, but I'll most likely end up with the classic Guerlain Vétiver, which reasonably priced throughout the web. I may require two: Après L'Ondée and a citrusy-vetiver, one for its floral delicacy and the other for its crisp earthiness, both ideal for warmer weather.

All my other choices, however, have won out a permanent niche in my perfume wardrobe, so close to being complete:

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Labels: caron, CB I Hate Perfume, chanel, fendi, frederic malle, givenchy, guerlain, lanvin, le labo, perfume reviews, serge lutens, ysl

2 comment(s)

June 16, 2008 3:03 PM, Perfumeshrine said...

A wonderful collection to be sure!
Great taste, diversity, nuances, style, many of my favourites there as well :-)

One word of advice (dare I?): the vintage Guerlain Vetiver is richer, although the current one is deliciously crisp; and you should also try a gourmand vetiver: Vetiver Tonka by Hermes (scrumptious)

June 16, 2008 3:34 PM, Dain said...

Hm, it figures, I was hoping they wouldn't have tampered with such a classic but... I wonder if that's why it smells so sharp, like bug spray, at the first.

I'll have to try the Hermes. And your suggestions are always welcome. : )

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Posted by Dain, Sunday, June 15, 2008 12:02 AM (Eastern)

Closer and closer. Perfume wardrobes must be grown and nurtured as carefully as a garden: most of the work is in weeding, and to sow a seed is not to secure fruition. I am not doing so badly, methinks. It's only been six months since I've taken up a serious study of perfumery—it's somewhere between art appreciation and nose sport—and ultimately, it is really how you smell rather than what you smell, which is to say that personal taste is more important than anything else. That is why we have so much niche snobbery, purple prose, and advertising: much of it is psychological.

It occurred to me, gi