You may remember our classic Lookbook series from September. Exotic, experimental looks are avowedly not my forte, as I prefer makeup in which women look like themselves, albeit a dream self. We are not decorations, after all. But I've been contemplating adding a new lipstick to my very short list of nirvana colors (Chantecaille Titan, a juicy, sheer berry like one has been madly kissed), and the devil that continually whispers in my ear says, "You also need eyeshadow."
While white is undeniably a very clean look, to my eye it is quite a bold, striking one (hence the title). So fresh, after two endless decades of smoky eyes parading down the red carpet. What makes this look work: there is no sparkle just a subtle shimmer like fine satin, concentrated on the inner corner of the eye but elegantly faded elsewhere. It is also delicately edged with black—black lashes, black liner—but no liquid drama, instead the almost old-fashioned softness of powder, applied closely, densely, serving as an outline, no more. The perfect product? NARS Pandora Duo. It must be admitted, I have always wanted this.
I would, as previously mentioned, wear this with Chantecaille Titan, as berry is the ideal pairing with white. Reds of any description would be suitable, if conventional. A milky peach would be very soothing on a warm complexion, violet on an olive one, and of course, as the picture suggests, pink is failsafe for cool skins, though I would opt for bold magenta and not this overprecious grapefruit. But then, I prefer a strong lip. As for blush, just the barest hint if your lipcolor is very weak or very strong, but apply liberally if it is in between for a deep wintry glow. But no bronzer, and absolutely do not attempt on a fake tan; this is too graphic a look for the healthy haze of a tan.
If you are very pale, white may not be so different from your skintone to effect the proper drama on its own, in which case I do suggest sparkle, such as Shiseido Whitelights Hydro-Powder. But on dark skin, white may be a little too dramatic, in which case a beige might do—not silver, which has a mood all its own—beige will evoke that strange blankness far better on deep skin.
I enjoyed this post because it is hard for me because sometimes it is hard to find a white pencil for my darker skin. A pencil that I have come to like is benefits mr. frosty. I would advise investing in a good white pencil because it is not used often but it lasts long, and anytime you go for that winter look the white pencil is perfect for that
I have yet to do anything frosty white, eye-wise. The closest would be MAC Vapour eyeshadow, which was frosty white tinged with pink...and before that, Jane White Lies eyeshadow, which wasn't great.
If you have not noticed, all of the titles in this series have been been inspired by relevant song lyrics, but I'm not exactly sure it works. In this case, however, there is no theme: this is my personal wishlist.
JEWELRY
Somewhat latterly in life, I've decided to delve into the world of earrings, not just natter about in aesthetic appreciation, but actually wear them. I take the ornamental role of jewelry rather seriously, so my tastes run to the downright baroque. These unusual but delicate Mallary Marks Green Tourmaline & Sapphire Earrings ($992) are my pick for a quotidian set, but I am considering ways to duplicate the look by making it myself.
FASHION
Ever since I've stopped smoking pot (seemingly, out of disinterest), I've enjoyed quite a lot more disposable income, but I seem to have replaced old habits with another, more legal addiction: magnificent but very costly shoes. I have my justifications. Indeed, who does not? I dearly hope it is not insanity thinly veiled by lyricism. Thus far, I have eschewed trends for the quieter beauty of classicism: Repetto BB in nude suede (I have additionally added a satin bow), Manolo cutout pumps in black suede, and my latest acquisition, buttery soft and slightly slouchy slate suede boots from Roberto del Carlo. In spite of the expense and aesthetic appeal of these shoes, they are for the most part deeply functional. My eye is cast this time, on a shoe of more frivolous nature, from Manolo Blahnik, a strappy, high-heeled but eerily walkable and therefore danceable, shiny satin sandal, in a brilliant electric violet (only the turquoise seems to have visual representation on the internet). A party shoe, in short.
MEDIA
Ok, I know that Harold Bloom is the foremost academic celebrity in America, but I think the man is ridiculous. I am rereading Don Quixote, all charm and cruelty. Nevermind that Cervantes himself writes, with the utmost delicacy, "I wanted only to offer it to you plain and bare, unadorned by a prologue or the endless catalogue of sonnets, epigrams, and laudatory poems that are usually placed in the beginnings of books," in Edith Grossman's recent translation the tedious and pompous Harold Bloom (well advertised, I might add) has written the introduction. I was so disgusted I ripped it out of the book. I have no patience for an academic who is never referred to by his surname alone. Nevertheless, even as egomania mars this reading list, it is no less impressive. I now have many new books-to-read-next.
FACEPAINT
Though I wouldn't object to Habanera (NARS, of course) or Shu Uemura Natural Brush 20 or PHYTO Pyhtonectar Shampoo, the product I really want right now is Chantecaille Sheer Lipstick in Titan ($26). I figured two lipsticks would do—a burnished raspberry for all occasions, a rich red for special ones—but I did make room for a third, if the perfect berry came along, just a touch sheer, for really seductive, beautiful lips (not bold like red or everyday like pink). And so it has. It's Chantecaille Titan.
SCENT
Let me see, this one is simple, though there are so many contenders for the role. I would like to finally lay my hands on a bottle of Tubéreuse Criminelle. Why can't they make it export? WHY!?
Above: Bobbi Brown's bridal look is fresh, classic, and pretty.
Many of the techniques behind bridal makeup have a similitude to polished makeup. A few specialized products will provide you with optimum results—cream foundation, waterproof mascara—but other than that, it is largely a difference of application, in deference to the camera. Basically, you apply a little bit more of everything.
skin: If ever there is a time to treat yourself, it would be your wedding day. I wouldn't recommend getting a facial too close to the day itself (who knows what might happen), but a few extra steps are not only calming but will add a welcome glow. Exfoliate well, which will immediately allow Jurlique Deep Penetrating Cream Mask to penetrate even more deeply for maximum benefit, as well as provide a really smooth surface for makeup later. Apply moisturizer that works well as a base for makeup, or a good primer like Smashbox.
pancake makeup: Instead of your usual foundation, I'd use Shu Uemura Nobara Cream Foundation. It's cakey in real life, but will give you flawless skin on film, and except for the very worst spots, no concealer is required. Here is my apologia: this is serious foundation, and requires careful application, but the point of this series to share the techniques and colors that look best, regardless of health, convenience, or the dictates of editorialists. Nobara requires some practice; you can apply it straight with fingers, but I'll also include more precise directions. Scrape a little onto the palm of the hand, the warmth makes it easier to blend. If you are between shades (there aren't that many) as I am, you may find it necessary to blend two, which is annoying in some senses, but useful in others, because you can make it somewhat lighter for under the eyes or for changes in skin tone over the seasons. Apply small (always easier to add than to subtract) amounts of warmed-up, mixed-up Nobara to the face, concentrating on the most problematic zones: the corners of the eyes, nose, and lips, which are the darkest parts of the face. Using a firm, dense sponge (regular liquid foundation sponges can be too rough for cream foundation, Shu Uemura offers a sponge better suited, if you want to be OCD about it), which you may wish to dampen first, blend outwards and downwards using light strokes. Blend well but do not rub (will stir up flakes), making sure to blend over jawline to prevent any lines of demarcation, adding more as required. If you are worried that this might a one-time use product, no fear: this melts beautifully over regular liquid foundation, as concealer. Loose powder (Clé de Peau is especially fine) is useful just to set makeup and impart an impeccable, poreless, shine-free finish, and provide a smooth surface for blush and eyeshadow (make sure to dust your eyelids) for long-lasting, non-blotchy application.
bright pink blush: Apply with a more liberal hand than usual, as photographs will wash you out. I have a soft spot for NARS Desire, my go-to blush for years. It is a beautiful choice for all but the warmest of complexions, who may favor coral instead. For most people, smile, and apply to the fleshy "apple" of the cheek, blend a bit on the temples and chin for a more convincing, overall glow (when we blush, we blush all over). Overall, I think bridal makeup should be blush-focused. It is less of a "statement" than strong lips or eyes, and the statement is eloquently romantic.
classic eyes: Perfect brows are a must. I wouldn't experiment too much with color on the eyes, which may prove to be a distraction. Neutrals are best, with a minimum of shimmer (frost picks up flash). As with blush, you'll want to apply a little heavier than usual. This is in some ways a smoky eye in reversal (you're not trying to create depth and intensity here, but light and freshness, and deeper shades layered over lighter shades are softer): apply the lightest shade (a matte white, for the cleanest look) first on the entire lid including browbone, then a medium shade like soft rose (NARS Nepal, it has shimmer but it is very soft) for the lid, and then finally, liner, a gunmetal like Bobbi Brown Graphite Shimmer Ink, which is not so harsh as black. A white/rose/gunmetal combination is classic, sophisticated, and photographs well; they complement each other perfectly, and the rose hums in harmony with your lips and cheeks. But, I look better in cooler tones, so I'd probably switch out the rose and use lilac instead. Your coloring may demand some similar substitution. For example, if you have darker skin, the white may look too chalky. Tightlining is always a useful enhancement.
waterproof mascara: Shiseido Lasting Lift Mascara is probably my favorite mascara for a rich black, curl-enhancing, clump-free, lash-emphaszing, indelible... I don't believe in expensive mascara, which is why I prefer L'Oréal. It's recommended here, as it won't smear no matter how hard you cry.
rich lipstick: Again, you don't want any color that's too pale, because photographs wash color out. One particular color comes especially to mind: Chanel Sexy Rouge Allure, a pink-red with complex shimmer (you know, "redcurrant"), is a shade that feels special but not overdone. Kevyn Aucoin Enchantaberry The Expert Lip Tint has much the same effect without the shimmer. For a warmer option, may I suggest Bésame Chocolate Kiss Enchanting Lipstick? If you are particularly pale, a sweet little pink like Lipstick Queen Rose Sinner is beautiful and romantic.
What should you carry with you? Lipcolor, powder compact, q-tips (to clean up any messes), eyeliner (to replace faded makeup), maybe a small vial of perfume.
Above: All About Eve (1950), I get a kick out of how she stomps on her cigarette (a threatening gesture), and soon delivers the icy retort: "Not until the last drugstore has sold its last pill."
Among the common utterances of the English language, perhaps there are no better examples of damning with faint praise than "aging gracefully" and "young at heart"—euphemisms at best. Sometimes, people write about how age can be beautiful, yet no one ever bothers to make such an assertion about youth, because such a thing is self-evident. Youth is an object of desire, and there is no implicit comparison. Age is beautiful—the quiet smell of a fine library, a red wine, Venice, the magnificent Bette Davis above—but women find it troubling. I detest beauty articles about aging; they are patronizing. Age is a touchy issue, and that's a fact. It is a major concern for most women, and the validity of the issue is a matter for the individual woman to decide, not some self-descried pundit. There may be much in the silver lining, but no one relishes the actual getting older.
That said, there is no shame in looking your best.
An expensive coiffure is an absurd affectation on the young, but it's quite elegant on an older woman. A great cut, plus a rich haircolor to cover greys, goes a long way. I have no preference in style or length, but a head of hair well taken care of is a distinction that flatters enormously.
Skincare is crucial, but it's easy to be duped. Miracle creams do not exist. I emphasize this not because I want to be pushy (indeed, skincare is my greatest weakness), but because the companies, they are preying on you. Videlict: Dior L'Or de Vie ($320 for La Crème, $350 for L'Extrait—skincare above $100 a jar requires French, you see). As much as I'd like to try a glass of Château d'Yquem someday, in my skincare, it's a r-i-p-o-f-f. The confidence that comes from being able to live comfortably in your skin is far more attractive than the rarest cream slathered on aging skin to hide your shame of it. Your makeup, it is not beautiful, you are.
If you haven't already, find yourself a good sunscreen, the only true anti-ager, at least until scientists figure out time reversal. For night, I recommend a vitamin C treatment, it adds clarity and radiance and repairs some of ongoing damage. And, a rich face cream. It doesn't matter if it's La Mer or Cetaphil, if it's a good moisturizer, it'll plump up your skin and reduce the appearance of fine lines*, because the skin swells with moisture.
There are a few makeup tricks that are useful. I am not fond of foundation, but I recommend it here, because as we age, our skin becomes increasingly uneven. Prep your skin with moisturizer; I like the brightening effect of Nuxe Crème Fraîche Suractivée Concentrée Energizing Cream. Then, find yourself a good cream foundation (Giorgio Armani, Clé de Peau, Chantecaille, all very expensive but excellent), add a drop of pearly pink highlighter (By Terry Éclat de Perle in Rosy Perle) if you like for added radiance, and use a foundation brush for a delicate, sure touch. An undereye concealer, in a shade lighter than your skintone, is very important; when you are older, fatigue shows more visibly. Bobbi Brown insists that a vibrant pop of blush is an instant face lift, and I heartily agree. I favor NARS Desire and MAC Fleur Power.
For eyes, a soft grey is the most flattering, but if you get sick of neutrals, consider a lustrous rose like NARS Nepal. An ivory, to highlight, and a subdued navy like Laura Mercier Deep Night, to line (it brightens), are the perfect complements. Make sure to avoid anything too shimmery, as it ages. And defined brows are always helpful. Now, the final touch: a beautiful, rich lipstick—Lipstick Queen in Rouge Sinner, a shade like red rosepetals, is universally flattering.
If there is one purely cosmetic consolation to getting older, it's that many of the most beautiful perfumes in the world, such as Chanel No. 22 or Guerlain L'Heure Bleue, cannot be worn by the meager personality of youth (a young woman with an old soul might be able to pull it off, but she'd be a rare one). For your viewing pleasure, here's a brief overview of some classic perfumes from history; they even feature the beautiful old bottles.
*Skincare copy says this all the time, "reduces the appearance of...", which is not at all the same meaning as, "gets rid of...", though it sounds like it.
Images (mostly) courtesy instyle.com. They really have some superlative still lifes! : )
Ohhhhh...no, that's about thirty years out of date...back then women were, sometimes literally, still the property of their husbands.
That's when women were supposed to fret about aging. Where's the social status in owning an old car, as opposed to a brand new shiny one?
It was assumed that you--the woman--would accomplish nothing intellectually or professionally in your life. Your brain would not develop, the way a man's would, as you got older. Hence, where a man would become more intelligent, more accomplished, more respected, higher status--you would simply age.
That's where all the patronizing comes from. They're leaving out...a lot. What women actually do in the twenty years between youth and middle age, besides sit in a chair, staring at the wall, while their skin loses tone.
I don't buy into any of that crap myself. In fact I think you should wear less makeup as you get older. It's akin to trying to cover up acne with makeup, it looks fake.
But sunscreen is your key beauty product...and one of those de-hagging eye creams. And a daily multi-vitamin. Getting enough vitamin A prevents squinting. Biotin keeps your hair from getting too thin. Exercise keeps off the telltale "middle aged spread." It's all prevention.
I'm curious about that Lipstick Queen now. Even though it's hard for me to believe a high-end lipstick company would stoop to "I just found a great website" spams.
Personally, I'm with you. I expect only to get better with age; guys my age don't appreciate me very well. [looks rueful] It helps because I don't expect to "lose my looks". Or my figure, for that matter. But for the majority of women, no matter how succesful they are, I think it is still a major issue. I know girls my age who are terrified of getting old, and if anything, they're the ones who are particularly successful. Women (as a general entity, not specific individuals) care about aging, that won't really change. The profits of the skincare industry are built on that. It doesn't really matter if you are allowed to earn money and be your own person, it's still something they care about.
O, and Lipstick Queen, I am looking at some samples I received now. I've no use for the Saint formula, not because they're bad but because I have no use for sheers overall because I'm sick of them. The Sinner formula is reeeaaaalllly pigmented! You can feel the pigment, there's so much of it. The color is really true: they sent me Wine Sinner, which is really a soft cool red, but no fuschia inclinations whatsoever, and if a blue-red won't turn, the others are certainly not likely to. It's totally matte, and yet comfortable to wear. It's lovely, I wonder if it'd be a good replacement for my GA #46, seeing as it's LE?
Yeah, it's funny, it was occurring to me yesterday...that the concept of paying women less...I used to think it was simple, that it was "someone has to clean the floor." I mean, for the past fifty years, women have been going to the same schools as men, getting the same degrees as men...is there any other explanation, as to why they are paid less?
Then the thought occurred...as long as they're paid less, they will be treated unfairly, and as long as they're treated unfairly, they will be better consumers. They will buy more.
I highly disagree that a disproportionate (compared to men) concern with aging is a female thing per se. It is an underpaid thing. On some level, women are trying to compensate for something.
What you're thinking of as successful...tends to be young women. Am I right? They don't have kids yet. Before you have kids, your income may well be on a par with a man's. The gap comes when you have the kids, because you don't get compensated for raising them. Either you pay someone else to do it (which is not cheap, it's not subsidized in the U.S.) or else you lose whatever money you would have made, doing it yourself.
It's an illusion of being successful; it's good as long as you don't have kids.
As Spike Milligan once said, "All I ask is the chance to prove that money can't make me happy." If we were paid the same, would we really have this inexplicable concern with aging?
Hm, well you see, I don't think that the age concern is really about money. I think it's about sex. Because women are most fertile at a certain age, and then at a certain point, they aren't anymore. It's not like that with men, though they too decline. A man can become more attractive with age, because he might have more to offer in terms of security to his mate, an option that wasn't available to women because of inequality. Women have an expiration date. If women are paid more, it equalizes the situation because a woman can be seen as desirable beyond her reproductive success, and it diminishes the power that men have, but... I don't think it's the cause, more a solution. After all, the capitalist system has only been around for a few hundred years, while sex has been around... for millions.
In any case, I dare say my original article wasn't intended to compare men and women in the first place, only the young and old. : )
Hm, I see, I think you misunderstand me. It's really much simpler than that. When I see women who are afraid to be old, they are afraid to be ugly. Sometimes it has to do with men, sometimes it doesn't, just like sometimes women dress for men, sometimes they don't. I think you're right about what you are talking about, but it's not what my article is talking about, because it is not concerned with gender inequality at all, just trying to address the fear of aging, period, that one sees so often in women.
Eh...you could see it entirely the other way around. Women keep their sexual potency their entire lives, where men's potency declines with age. How many kids do you really need?
To the best of my knowledge, there were matriarchal societies before there were patriarchal societies. I find it hard to believe, in a matriarchal society, that women would have the same concerns about aging. It doesn't make logical sense.
You've got a valid point in that you should change your products as you age. I totally agree with that. You can get away imo, with using cheaper products when you're young. Somehow it all just works...or you can use no products when you're young, that works too. In fact too much stuff overwhelms the natural beauty of youth.
I've found the biggest change for me...perfume. Some scents now smell too young on me, where those other scents, that I know I wouldn't have been attracted to before, now smell right.
Colored eyeshadow now looks better on me. When I was younger, I wouldn't have bothered. Now I can use a little extra color.
Blush is good (again something I wouldn't have bothered with before). I'm still pondering concealer. I hate the idea of stretching the skin under my eyes. It would have to be something that involves minimal rubbing. That's the key.
Just thought I'd like to add this pic from the Sartorialist: http://bp2.blogger.com/_qjpwnPW4c1o/RsVMhv4lKjI/AAAAAAAAB3s/e9OhQ9mqV0g/s1600/Wht%26Green.jpg
Yay! I like the Sartorialist, one of the first sites I ever saw pictures of ordinary people and street fashion.
Yeah...men these days are also concerned about aging, more than before. It is also because people are living a lot longer, they stay strong and healthy longer too. What I resent is an implication that we're supposed to be more concerned than men appear to be--
It's much like the classic management example of pay equity. They say that people care less about what other people in their field are being paid, and more about what the guy next to them is being paid. If you're working shoulder-to-shoulder with someone else, and you find out that guy is being paid more than you, you're not going to like it.
I suppose it'll all even out in the end, one way or another.
Interesting! That pic from Sart. has got to be my favorite one EVER! I can only,only hope my hair greys like that.
Anyhoos, I'm feeling that the red lipstick I so love is begining to look ridiculous on me, at my age. I know, I know, but I looked at some of my pictures and just thought "ugh. I look creepy."
Dain, dear, color-queen, any good recs for me for something Nude? I'm thinking I'll just start to focus on playing up my eyes and lashes rather than the dark red lips. Thanks!
Carol, I agree with Colleen! That red lippie is great on you! I think red is a "mature" look anyway, one that can look awkward on the very young, though not always. Maybe it's how you are wearing it? A clear, soft pink blush may soften the look, and I like pewter shadow with red lipstick... the red alone can look stark, but pewter is just rich enough, but still very neutral.
I also like deep reds with a lemony-gold. I have a good picture of this look, I'll post it.
But as for non-reds... hmm... I don't wear nudes, I don't favor them, I don't know why, just feel like I need more color. If I were pressed to use one, I like a sheer shimmery lilac because it cancels out out lip tones pretty well. A milky pink works too.
The shade I've been obsessed with lately is a pure rose (not pink brown, the kind of color that makes you think of English-rose beauties from Jane Austen novels). It's not as bland as nude, it can be quite rich, but it's much softer than red or berry... Hey, btw, have you tried NARS Gothika? I know we can wear the same lipsticks really well, and that's my favorite.
I so admire Lauryn Hill. And why not? She is beautiful, intelligent, talented, and socially conscious (she is an incredible lyricist). The moment she first looks up, her eyes are so full, but her expression so reserved—it gives you a weird feeling, like she can look into your soul. She seems to favor red lipstick and gold hoops; it's not glamour puss, it's just cool. I also love how she wears her hair natural, without straighteners or lighteners, just dreads. And compared to the standards of most hip hop videos, there's a refreshing lack of bling or booty. She's fully clothed! In normal clothes even! Living proof that dignity is much sexier.
Above: Benefit Bad Gal and Diorshow Mascara for an easy, instant smoky eye, with Chantecaille Gold Shimmer Cream Brilliance Aqua Blush to add a delicious glow to dark skin (cheekbones, eyes, etc.), and a rich, red stain like Stila Poppy Covertible Color for cheeks and lips.
December 22, 2007 1:49 PM,
I enjoyed this post because it is hard for me because sometimes it is hard to find a white pencil for my darker skin. A pencil that I have come to like is benefits mr. frosty. I would advise investing in a good white pencil because it is not used often but it lasts long, and anytime you go for that winter look the white pencil is perfect for that
December 26, 2007 9:03 PM,
Hi Sydney, and thanks for the tip!
I have yet to do anything frosty white, eye-wise. The closest would be MAC Vapour eyeshadow, which was frosty white tinged with pink...and before that, Jane White Lies eyeshadow, which wasn't great.
FWIW I've eyed that Pandora duo for a long time.