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· August 24, 2007 9:46 PM by

Colleen Shirazi
· August 24, 2007 9:58 PM by

Colleen Shirazi

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Posted by Dain, Saturday, August 25, 2007 2:08 PM (Eastern)

I still don't know what style is. It mostly seems to be work this way: "I like this. Let's wear it." Sometimes it works, sometimes it doesn't. I get better at it over time. My taste is highly idiosyncratic, but that is a good sign, I think. The time to worry about what people think about your clothes was over in high school. Sometimes I worry if about what I'm wearing, usually that I'm overdressed, but not often. I wear what I want to wear. Even at the end of an exhaustive OCD session (what, you couldn't tell?), I don't know if I can be any more definitive than that. Style is... reserve, decision, confidence, personality, and... grace under pressure. It's like wisdom, you acquire it yourself, no one can do it for you.

As such, I'm afraid this series isn't really a guide. It's just one way of doing things, perhaps my attempt to be as organized about clothing as I am about makeup.

Part 1: Getting Started
Part 2: Faux Pas
Part 3: Work
Part 4: Play
Part 5: Basics

Enough babble. Let's continue to everyone's favorite, shoes and bags. I've sprinkled them throughout these articles like currants in a bun, but the collective is more illuminating.

bags
I think the minimum number of bags I need is two, but I want three. Yes, three, not ten or twenty. Every other fashion enthusiast wants to collect as many beautiful bags without going bankrupt, but my interest is in owning as few as possible; only, they are the perfect few. Wasn't that how women used to do it, once upon a time? A lady had a handbag for everyday, maybe something for evening, maybe something for the summer. It's only now that they have names, have become collectibles. If a bag becomes popular enough to become an it bag, it's already spelled its own doom: within a season, it'll look old. Actually, two of my choices are it bags, but they will avoid that fate, I hope, because one is a redoubtable classic, and the other is an Anya Hindmarch (she tends to make bags that are unique, but trendless).

This is perfection, not only to look at, but I think it's also a convenient size (13" x 9" x 3") for everyday, though I might be able to squeeze in a small notebook still. This could take almost anywhere, so long as it's not too casual (like the beach) or too fancy (like a ball).

That should be the end of it, but I think a big, roomy bag is necessary. Why then, do I need the Anya Hindmarch above? In part because I want it, and in part because I don't need to lug around heavy books any more, and you know what they say, the lighter the bag, the lighter the mind. In any case, a Hermès Kelly, which is way out of my league as yet, so it's quite an academic question. Perhaps someone will come out with a large bag that's equally compelling and not so cripplingly expensive.

An evening bag understandably won't see much use, but I think it's an essential too. No matter how nice your everyday bag is, it doesn't look appropriate with a posh dress. It's not the most practical option, but then, eveningwear isn't about practicality in the first place. As you can see, I favor simply styled bags (they match, instead of taking over your outfit), but I think a minimal clutch is a perfect way to showcase some gleaming silver lizard.

shoes
My attitude towards shoes is much the same. I want one evening shoe, one sneaker, one sandal, etc., which I mean to wear to death. So I must choose carefully—interesting yet versatile yet high quality. A girl needs more shoes than handbags, and they don't last a lifetime, because they do wear down much more quickly Here's how I've decided what I need: everyday flats and heels, summer flats and heels, winter flats and heels, house slippers and evening heels. I think that covers every possible circumstance.

After much agonizing, I still don't know what I'd like to have as THE everyday flat; I keep changing my mind. I started with Repetto and then thought zebra might be cooler and then I saw black lace and it just spiraled from there; aye, my head spins. For a palate cleanser, I went back to Repetto, and found this picture of Brigitte Bardot. Hmm... red? Dearth of red in my wardrobe, but it should be darker, like a luscious burgundy for more versatility. I'm starting to like the idea... ruby slippers, yeah?

Probably no shoe is so essential than a pair of classic black pumps. I think these Manolo "Butterfly" are particularly exquisite, in a very understated way.

Instead of the ubiquitous Havaiana, why not consider K. Jacques St. Tropez? They're still handmade in the south of France, and they offer easy, natural styles that are perfect for the lazy days of summer. I have my eye on the whimsical Icare ($190); it would be so pretty in a sky blue, but I like the white and silver they offer too. Since it's the end of summer, I have lots of time to decide before it becomes an issue; no point in buying them now.

I was unable to find any great espadrilles online, at least, any that are quite the level of my favorite shoes of all time. I bought them long ago from Banana Republic (which goes to show that expensive isn't always better), and they've been absolutely everywhere ever since, including Croatia. What else could be more perfect with pretty little sundress*? I fear for their demise... actually, they can be resoled, right?

Though I'm disappointed by how costly Converse Chucks have become, it cannot be denied that they're a classic. They offers tons of options, but this disgusting skull print amuses me. After all, they're the kind of shoe that looks cooler the more beat up they get. I don't wear sneakers until it gets cold (I have an aversion to socks), so might as well be amused.

Insert obligatory joke about blue suede shoes here. No, really. Chucks are poor protection against inclement weather, so I do need a pair of boots. But boots are particularly expensive, and they're not really an aesthetic I favor (I have short legs). I thought to myself: it should have a tasteful wedge heel, simple stylings, in grey, suede if possible. And then I saw the Bruno Magli Alissa ($375.50), and I think the dusky sapphire hue is even nicer. Plus, the price is pretty decent for a pair of designer boots.

I should add a pair of luxurious cashmere slippers here, for lounging around the house, but I'm not sure what's really good. They're not the top priority, but perhaps when the others are well in hand...

And finally, a flashy evening high-heeled sandal, without any regard to practicality, just flat out glamorous.

jewelry
Jewelry is an entirely personal matter. I think one should only wear "important" jewelry, significant pieces, accumulated over a lifetime. I feel that way about all clothing, but it's especially the case with jewelry, especially if you cannot make your own as Colleen does. : )

Ok, I don't even have pierced ears, but I like these two, they have much personality. One's sparkly and baroque, the other's sexy and earthy, both are quite eye-catching. I thought about some pearl studs, but the high-society angle is already covered by Cathy Waterman. As for the Annette Ferdinandsen, they were originally inspired by the classic hoop earring—I think these still retain the sex appeal but in an unexpected way, as if the silver suddenly became organic.

In some dream universe, this antique art deco pearl and diamond ring from Fred Leighton would become my wedding ring. I know it's not exactly traditional, but I'm not really a traditional sort of person, and I'd want my wedding ring to display that. No, I wouldn't mind wearing it every day, but it'd probably be heavy. On the other hand (lol, literally), a blue stone worn on the pinky finger, such as this Jamie Joseph Kyanite Ring ($704), would be the perfect complement. The rough cut is a pleasingly organic counterpoint to the fussiness of the Fred Leighton ring, and its brilliant watery depths echo the pearl's maritime origins.

Bracelets and watches are a distraction to me, but a clean, slightly masculine watch like Chaumet's Dandy and the dazzle of this tennis bracelet (except so much more) from Harry Winston can brook no argument.

Phew! That took forever to write! O woops, I forgot necklaces.

Necklaces are the only thing I wear everyday, so I keep things as simple as possible. Above is a classic strand of pearls, which are ever appropriate, and a pendant that is special to me for personal reasons. It's got a mini Buddha living inside, see?

*I have one like this in white, and it's my favorite thing to wear; casual dresses in general are actually my outfit of choice for everyday, and yet they're too variable to be included among the basics. So I'm not sure where exactly to place them.

Labels: annette ferdinandsen, anya hindmarch, bruno magli, calvin klein, cathy waterman, chaumet, fashion notes, fred leighton, harry winston, hermes, k jacques st tropez, manolo blahnik, repetto

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Posted by Dain, Friday, August 24, 2007 6:52 PM (Eastern)

Here is work, here is play, both of which cost a bundle (especially play). Much of it can—and ought to be—integrated into everyday wear. There's no flippin' point in owning clothes that you don't wear, with some exceptions (I don't think that Rochas gown is quotidian material). I've split the clothes into categories for the sake of coherence, but if you're consistent about the style (clothing you love very much; I've tried to "make things work" on the premise that I "need" it, and I find the clothes tend to wear me, not the other way around), your wardrobe should be more or less fluid. One of the things that make the more important pieces blend seamlessly with each other is basics, which is a treasure hunt of a different kind. I don't want to pay $200 for a pair of jeans, or $80 for a t-shirt. Yet I want clothes that last, and aren't frumpy.

tees

Thank god for American Apparel, it is the perfect antidote to t-shirt bullshit (*cough* TheRowSplendidC&CCaliforniaJamesPerse *cough*). These are nice, reasonably priced (comparable to the GAP), and come in tons of colors. Plus, they favor normal-looking models, which is a sainted relief. This is all that a tee company ought to do, even if the owner likes to sleep with all his employees. Above: Unisex Sheer Jersey Short Sleeve Deep V-Neck ($18), 2x1 Rib Boy Beater Tank ($17), Sheer Jersey Long Sleeve T ($26).

pants

I don't mind buying cult jeans, but I bought mine long ago when a pair of Blue Cults were $125 and that was really startling because $60 was a much more normal price (though I found mine on resale for $50). Nowadays, $100 is the standard price, and the really nice ones are closer to $200. I'm glad I bought mine—the fit is fantastic, and they've lasted since I bought them (four years ago) without stretching its shape and only a little fading—but I don't relish the idea of paying $217 for J. Brand Joplin. I really like how this jean is styled (plus it's named after Janis, which is plain awesome), disarming in its simplicity. But, that is one really fucking expensive pair of jeans. Jeans are supposed to be... you know... utilitarian. Better are chinos in navy (I also have a pair in grey): they're just as durable as jeans, the dark blue is equally versatile, but they look much more polished. Anything you can do, I can do better (compare them, side by side). I usually buy J. Crew chinos, and the price point is decent ($59.50), considering I haven't needed to replace them yet. They're missing navy, so I've posted these rather refined cords ($89.50) instead. I think cords are charmingly 70s retro, and they only get better and softer with age, so while these are somewhat expensive, they'd be useful and last years.

buttondowns

I think this is one of those things that everyone should have in their wardrobe, a clean, crisp white buttondown. It's the solution to the I-don't-know-what-to-wear blues. There's one for every budget: J. Crew ($59.50), which I suspect is a Steven Alan ripoff, Thomas Pink ($180), the one I want (doesn't the broderie anglaise sweeten the severity of the "I am an impeccable white shirt" just perfectly?), and finally, Loro Piana ($760), which is actually silk, for the kind of people who vacation in Amalfi and Maldives.

sweaters

I think of sweaters and cardigans in entirely different categories altogether. Chunky sweaters are so bulky that I just treat them like a jacket—you know, outerwear. They can be knit so beautifully, but they're limited to a certain function; I have one, in winter white, that I wear rarely, though I wouldn't complain about having the Balenciaga. Lightweight sweaters take on the role of tees in my wardrobe (sort of like how I don't really wear jeans). Some are very plain, like a lilac crewneck I have, but the color and cut is so flattering on me that it's one of my favorites. Others have personality in spades, such as a psychedelic (for lack of a better word) green and white boatneck that is also one of my favorite shirts. Fun knits are harder to find than fun tees—but I dare say it saves me money. Still, they're sweaters. You put on one, find a pair of bottoms to match, that's the end of it.

Cardigans, however, are another animal altogether. They can be primary shirts, they can be layers. The cardigan-topping-a-skirt combo is a classic I turn to all the time. This fall, since Balenciaga and Alexander McQueen are well out of my budget, I might treat myself to A.P.C.'s dark turquoise cardigan ($229). It is a bit more expensive than I usually pay, and it looks deceptively bland, but I have much respect for A.P.C. They produce very few and very little, and they seem like plain basics at first glance, but somehow... the quality, the fit, all meticulously handled, it just looks real good on. It is probably the most quintessentially French label I know.

skirts?
I like wearing skirts, but, they are rather difficult to find, at least, nice ones. I'll let you know if I find a reliable source. Perhaps Tristan & America?

Am I missing something? Oh yes! Accessories!

accessories

Rolex, Cartier, how desperate are they? They are so obvious. Why should a watch be obvious? I'd rather have the Chaumet Dandy ($7350): it's clean of everything (hype, ornament) except expense. I like how it's slightly masculine; I like how no one would recognize it. It's just a tastefully quiet watch.

I like shoes as much as the next gal, but my shoes tend to be very basic, at least functionally. I may favor a skyscraper fuschia sandal with a crystal bow, but I'd need no other evening shoe. Since I'm planning on doing a separate article on accessories anyway, I'll just point these two out for now. Ok, these Chucks are appalling. That's why I like them so much. : ) They're sort of anti-style, the more ostentatious the better, the dirtier the better. Though, they're really fashionable now, which must be why they're $47 (err... shouldn't they be more like $15?). Antipodal to the putrid Chucks are the Repetto Flora (as far as I know, it's entirely unavailable in the U.S.), a rarefied distillation of chic. It's equal partner to the classic black pump, elegant and exquisitely handmade of the finest materials (unlike the Chucks, which are a regurgitation of rubber and canvas by some factory in... what China?). But, you know, they have sort of the same use, if not the same appeal. They're flats with terrible arch support, they're icons in the world of shoes, and they're perfect for casual wear. I'd also like to add a pair of Havaianas, but I think everybody knows them already.

Sidewalk crouches at her feet
Like a dog that begs for something sweet.
Do you hope to make her see you fool?
Do you hope to pluck this dusky jewel?.

Labels: alexander mcqueen, american apparel, anya hindmarch, APC, balenciaga, chaumet, converse, fashion notes, j brand, j crew, loro piana, repetto, thomas pink

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August 24, 2007 9:46 PM, Colleen Shirazi said...

Hello! Hello! Sorry, now I have that song in my mind. :D

American Apparel is way underrated. I have a tank top by them, and it's been washed many times, and it looks exactly the same as it did when it was new. AA is what Banana Republic used to be, for basic clothes, only without the higher price tag.

August 24, 2007 9:58 PM, Colleen Shirazi said...

Hmmm...what people wear here are Vans, not as much Converse. I'm too much in love with my Dr. Martens to notice though. lol

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Posted by Dain, Friday, July 13, 2007 1:29 AM (Eastern)

When it comes to casual wear, I'm of two opinions. I do like to buy the best, but I rarely wear casual clothing in the first place. Is that an incentive to invest? It quite depends on the article of clothing—jeans are worthy of investment, particularly if you own one or two pairs as I do, to ensure proper fit and durability, but I'm not sure there's much virtue in an "investment" when it comes to most casual wear. C&C California? The Row? Neal Sperling? Splendid? James Perse? Buy your t-shirts from the GAP, for heaven's sake. Couture tees, a ridiculous notion!

J. Crew makes lovely basic tees, which are still somewhat expensive at $34 (I like boat necks, so I chose this particular one, but there are many styles). They're nicely tailored with a bit of stretch, so that they hug the body, but forgiveably, and won't change shape with too much wear. They come in a rainbow offering that is sure to satisfy. Above: soft azalea (I am craving jewel tones, fashion has had such a dull palette lately, and it seems bound to continue), whispering pine (you'd be surprised how neutral green is, crisp with white in the summer, but it also pairs well with tweedy greys in the fall).

How much I have suffered in this skinny-leg phase!—absolutely hideous, and I don't care how skinny you are. Fortunately, others must agree, because here is J Brand's Joplin Palazzo ($218 at eluxury.com) among a few other wide-leg varieties. I've no idea if wide-legs are back, but I do really like this jean: it's a darker wash (more flattering), with a cotton-linen blend that's airy and trouser-like, a looser fit (for a cooler vibe), and an absolute minimum of hardware, branding, or fuss. These won't date you, unlike a Swarovski-encrusted, distressed, and faded pair of Sevens. Normally, I like J. Crew's chinos—in navy, they're just as versatile as jeans, but polished enough for work. They're not extremely expensive ($50-75), given that they stand up to everyday wear and tear remarkably well.

Casual shoes, for me, are ballet flats, though I have a soft spot for a well worn pair of Chucks. While the ballet flats that top my list are the Miu Miu I posted a couple days ago, the queen of ballet flats, in terms of quality and renown, are Repetto. They still make pointe shoes, but for more pedestrian wear, consider this classic flat, the Bardot, named after the actress who popularized them. They come in a fantastic array of materials and shades. I think I may buy a pair in a leg-lengthening nude suede; they might be great with pants and for work.

A beautiful and well-made handbag says a great deal about its owner, which is why I loathe fussy it bags like Louis Vuitton, which date more rapidly than a carton of milk. Might as well have "fashion victim" tattooed on your forehead. I usually avoid obvious designer options for that very reason, with the exception of Anya Hindmarch and Hermès which are always tasteful; I think it is better that people wonder. I think two roomy bags (one dark, one light) and a clutch for evening are all that anyone needs. Anything else is for ostentation, which means that if I ever got a third big, roomy bag, it would be in cherry red patent leather or royal blue. : )

The Anna Corinna Jet Setter Junior ($400 at lunaboston.com), a roomy 15" x 11.5" x 5", lets the sumptuous brown leather take center stage, with minimal hardware and tasteful styling. Truly, this is timelessly chic and practical, a lifetime investment that will never fail you in sheer versatility. It even has extra room for one's shoulder, a sign of thoughtful design. How lovely against breezy sundresses and sober tweeds both!

There is one obvious designer bag that avoids preposterous ornamentation, and that is Hermès. My pick is the classic Kelly, in pristine white leather (prices vary and the waiting list is long, I found this picture on the fantastic Decades Inc. blog, but the bag itself has been sold). It's not just for summer, just imagine how perfectly cheerfully winter white this bag would be in the depths of winter.

Jewelry, more than anything else, is a genuine investment. It is my humble belief that one ought to pass entirely on cheaper options and save one's money for something truly significant, something worthy of "passing on", something that instantly transforms the entire outfit, something that exists in a state of pure beauty (however you might define it). A small but well edited collection of jewels will serve you far better than a truckload of crap. This is why I favor classics; it is rare that an ornate piece catches my eye as a worthy and unique bauble, perhaps because such things are so very personal.

As infamous as Cartier and Rolex are for watches, I am bored with the hype. If I'm going to buy a watch, it had better be something so classic I'd wear it always. No diamonds for me, just the absolute simplicity of this Chaumet Dandy ($7350 at vivre.com). I also like that it's unisex, though perhaps a little on the masculine side.

There is nothing, absolutely nothing, more classic than a strand of pearls. Even diamonds can look trashy in certain situations, but pearls, never. They are eternally chic, even over a t-shirt. The 7.0-7.5 mm princess length Akoya is the most versatile ($435 at pearlparadise.com), the gold-ball clasp is not only simple but attractive. Wear them always, the oil in human skin actually improves the luster of the nacre.

I actually do not have pierced ears, but a pair of studs, either diamonds or pearls, are the most classic option (hoops, too, but they are more casual). These Lotus studs ($482 at pearlparadise.com—I love this site, btw) are a baroque combination of both: just the right amount of ostentation and reserve.

Labels: anna corinna, chaumet, classics, fashion guide, fashion notes, hermes, j brand, j crew, jewelry, repetto

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Posted by Dain, Friday, June 22, 2007 7:10 AM (Eastern)

To continue with our article on packing light...

PRACTICAL: UNDER AND OVER
Often the tops I like to wear are sheer, thus I find a lace camisole indispensible. Not, however, in this case, as the ones I've chosen can do without.

For unpredictable weather, it is wise to add a sweater or cardigan. I favor this luscious raspberry Jackie Cardigan ($59.50) from J. Crew, which would complement my tops superbly. It looks sleek and soft, the ideal light layer for chilly evenings.

PRACTICAL and AESTHETIC: WELL SHOD
Two pairs of shoes suffice: a comfortable pair of flats and a pair of heels. I like shoes with personality, but not so much that they don't match all the clothes; neutral colors work best here. Additionally, a pair of flip flops might be useful and take up little room, especially if you are going to the beach, but if you've already chosen a pair of sandals as your "flats", the flip flops might be redundant. I know shoes take up a lot of room, but the flats will already be on your feet, and a pair of heels (in its original cloth bag) is actually very useful for dressier occasions, like dinner at a nice restaurant.

I adore both of these, and they're on sale! I've chosen Alexander McQueen Skull Ballet Flats $258, but it quite depends on your taste and destination. For more tropical destinations, a great pair of sandals might be better, while colder climes might demand some svelte boots. But I love these ballet flats, the combination of sweetly chic (the simple ballet shape) and edgy (the skulls) is quite interesting, while still being neutral enough for anything (the shade of grey). As for heels (normally I pack a pair of supremely walkable espadrilles), I wanted these adorable Stella McCartney Velvet Pumps ($273) when they first came out in pewter, but this olive incarnation is even better, not to mention deceptively neutral. I have a strange affinity for green shoes for that very reason.

AESTHETIC: SPARKLY STUFF
Jewelry ought to be avoided when traveling, rather than to run the risk of losing something. Simple jewelry you needn't take off is best. A clean, classic Chaumet Dandy Watch ($7350) and a simple necklace like this pearl strand ($390) work well for me. Elegant, but not fussy.

But it doesn't hurt to pack one major statement piece, like a cocktail ring. I like how the lustrous green depths of this Agate Ring from Stephen Dweck ($330) echoes the hues of the olive pumps above, in a very subtle way.

PRACTICAL: A BIG BAD BAG
No one ever said that one cannot be both practical and stylish. My secret to living with a tiny piece of luggage is to carry an equally large handbag, like the heartstoppingly chic Anya Hindmarch Bogart ($980). Between the two, I have everything I might need. But big bags are not well suited for going out, which is why I pack something smaller, like Michael Kors' Sutton Clutch ($395), with the added virtue of doubling as a makeup bag.

I love Anya Hindmarch in general for her ladylike-but-slightly-quirky stylings, and the glossy patent of this tote is so gorgeous it's almost wicked. The Sutton Clutch is equally timeless and glamorous, with its demure cocoa and black diamond pattern and the shiny gold buckle. It's quite oversize (11" in length), so there's room for all your needs.

Labels: alexander mcqueen, anya hindmarch, chaumet, michael kors, stella mccartney, travel

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