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· The Perfect Stash: Part 1 (skin)
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· March 23, 2007 11:57 PM by
Colleen Shirazi
· March 22, 2007 9:12 PM by
Colleen Shirazi
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Present Perfect: She's Caught Under the Skin
Posted by Dain, Tuesday, November 27, 2007 1:12 PM (Eastern)
My mother has this trick of buying small bottles of Kiehl's Ultra Facial Moisturizer and giving them out to people. Though it lacks the fancy trappings of more vaunted face goos in the $200 range (you can give out Clé de Peau and Sisley if you want), my mother's choice is such an easy crowd pleaser that nobody cares. Skincare is so useful and important, and so few people approach it with any realistic understanding of how it works, that to start someone along the right path makes an excellent gift. All it takes is a working knowledge of the individual's skin type. A few questions about routines, and you have a pretty good idea of what needs improvement.
For the acne prone, I recommend starting them out with the Kiehl's Blue Herbal line, which is cosmetically elegant, with a light "refreshing" feeling that places people right in their comfort zone, and it depends on the reliable salicylic acid for its firepower. It is not a miracle cure, but it is a more pleasant alternative to Clean & Clear. You may want to throw in Fresh Umbrian Clay Treatment if you're feeling particularly zealous: Layered over the Blue Herbal Spot Treatment, there aren't many zits that stand a chance.
For tough, oily skin, I recommend a gift basket of the following combinations, which I have chosen because they do not strip the skin and result in hyperactive oil glands. If your friend likes botanical skincare: LUSH Angels on Bare Skin (exfoliant/cleanser) and Decléor Aromaessence Ylang Ylang (oil control with balance, but a very little goes a long way). High-tech: Shu Uemura High Performance Balancing Cleansing Oil Fresh (makeup removal/cleanser) and La Roche-Posay Toleriane Fluide.
For normal and combination and dry, I recommend the three products that comprise the heart of my own personal regime. This includes Primavera Refining Exfoliating Cleanser (exfoliant/cleanser), Jurlique Herbal Recovery Gel (a sort of wonderful antioxidant cocktail that does for the skin what vitamin water does for hangovers, brightens and rehydrates, all without any caloric fattiness so that it won't aggravate summer-oily skin), and my favorite moisturizer...
Labels: decleor, embryolisse, fresh, gift guide, jurlique, kiehl's, la roche posay, LUSH, primavera, shu uemura
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Beauty Notes: Going Green
Posted by Dain, Wednesday, October 03, 2007 6:36 PM (Eastern)
I seem possessed by a cantakerous streak these days, though I'm not sure why. I seem inclined to hate everything. Maybe I'm PMS-ing? Doesn't feel like it. Maybe I've been blogging overmuch? Noooo... Or, perhaps it's just hard to switch from very deep to very frivolous writing at will? Perhaps. Whatever the case may be, I will try to be better behaved.
For a little bit of spotless virtue in your life, why not consider going green? It's a small thing everyone can do, and it is better for your hair and skin.
Over the years, I have noticed that I have gravitated towards natural skincare, though not, it seems, on purpose. In my search for the perfect routine, it was often the case that I'd choose natural products because they seemed superior. For the most part, they don't claim to be instant miracle cures, which I find insulting. You drop $300 on the latest anti-aging it cream or whatever, and it stops working a week later. And you still look old. And if the active ingredients are abrasive, you can worsen your skin or build up immunities in acne bacteria. For the most part, natural skincare tends to work proactively (not treat retroactively) with your skin. Its progress is often slow, but with better longterm effects.
That is not to say that all botanicals are trustworthy. Bath and Body Works and The Body Shop, for example, mostly uses petrochemicals like any other brand on the market, with a few "extracts" thrown in for good measure. Charlatans aside, I do have a few warnings about botanicals. Their effect is hard to measure, and hard to predict, unlike something like, say, benzoyl peroxide. And you are more likely to have an allergic reaction. Natural does not necessarily mean "safe". Sometimes the formulas are less elegant, because the widespread use of oils in natural skincare can feel filmy or greasy, and can actually be occlusive, but that's the price you pay if you want to avoid silicones, sulfates, and petrochemicals. But there exist lightweight, astringent oils like sunflower/safflower, hazelnut, jojoba, and grapeseed that are somewhat less problematic for oily or acne-prone skin, and it must be noted that some natural ingredients are exceptionally good for the skin, like aloe vera or shea butter, but take some time to absorb. Another difficulty you might encounter is the short shelf life of some of these products (I found that my Dr. Hauschka Rose Day Cream went bad in a year), which can be attributed to natural ingredients and low levels of preservatives. Again, if you are concerned about parabens, it is a small price to pay. Not every brand is 100% natural, and fewer still are organic, but I don't necessarily feel this is a bad thing. Saffron Rouge is a particularly good site for all sorts of natural skincare.
But other than these negatives, I find natural products to be, on the whole, more conscientious. Not just about the environment, though some companies like Dr. Hauschka and Jurlique go so far to grow their own ingredients on their own organic farms. They also tend to follow fair labor laws, though this is not a given. This sense of social conscientiousness, I often find, is present in the products themselves—they are often very conscientiously made. Every product I have tried from Jurlique, for example, has been excellent. Primavera is very promising thus far, but I've only tried one of the products. Dr. Hauschka I've had a little more trouble with, peanut oil tends to clog my pores. Decléor was my first foray into "botanicals", but it is more a "spa" line now that I know better; I find the moisturizers occlusive, but the Baumes and Aromaessences are worth trying at least once because they are originals. Caudalíe is very hit or miss, but they have wonderful scents. Sisley is a grand rip-off. Stella McCartney CARE, while I like the packaging (I prefer utilitarian, hygenic packaging when it comes to skincare, rather than the glamorous), is ok, at least for the price. Likewise for Fresh, though it is not all-natural. Better Botanicals is a really good brand, as is Body Time. Burt's Bees has a few stellar products, and a lot of ones one would rather forget about.
I am sure I am missing some, but they escape my mind. I have yet to try many brands.
The other nice thing about natural skincare is that some products are fairly easy to replicate. Love the gentle exfoliating effect of Dr. Hauschka Cleansing Cream but find it too expensive? Buy your own almond meal and grapeseed oil (plus whatever else you'd like to add) and grind it up. Like Decléor Aromaessences? Mix some high-quality oils together with essential oils, suited to your skin type.
I know less about natural haircare. I like Nature's Gate and Aubrey Organics and PHYTO. I wonder if the Herbal Hair Conditioner will work as a CO wash? Ever since I switched to this method, I can't even imagine using shampoo any more. I've been using Aubrey Organics Honeysuckle Rose Moisturizing Conditioner on the ends, and it's really good but too thick for cleansing, it doesn't spread well. A great part of the appeal for me about cleansing with conditioner is that I only need one product, and using two conditioners seems a bit pointless. The Nature's Gate has a light, watery texture, but it has some crazy humectant properties, because the result is quite rich. Plus, it comes in a a huge gallon size, and I love the scent.
Labels: better botanicals, body time, caudalie, decleor, dr. hauschka, fresh, jurlique, sisley, stella mccartney
Style Icon: La Belle Dame Sans Merci
Posted by Dain, Monday, August 13, 2007 12:17 AM (Eastern)
I am hoping this "style icon" series is not to give the impression that we hanker after this or that celebrity. Far from it. It'll either be people worthy of admiration in a more than superficial sense, like Lauryn Hill, or what I want to wear myself at the moment, a reference that inspires me. I realize we are awash with cultural references at present, which gives the likes of Rachel Zoe and Karl Lagerfeld license for consumeristic vulgarity. Taste has become something pornographic. The only way to be different in the fashion chaos of today is to turn to classicism, because being an "individual" has no meaning when there are so many sartorial megalomaniacs running around.
This is perhaps why I am obsessed with French style right now, which is classic style itself in a lot of ways. Classics are reserved and impeccable, so the personality becomes something of a mystery, which is honestly the bloody point. All clothing sends a message, but classics are just more subtle about it: you need to pay attention to the quality of the material and construction, the way she wears her clothes, and above all, the internals—the mind and the heart. Above all, I think that is the true secret to style. The supreme self-confidence that comes only from knowing how to take advantage of one's assets and learning to be comfortable with one's flaws. The truly stylish have their own sense of what they want to wear, and never make the mistake of allowing their outfits to attract attention before they themselves do.
Gets off soapbox.
Anyway, The Cool French Girl is just a type, presumably downtown and low-maintenance. I favor the makeup look for fall, with some modifications (I need stronger blush, and would need the extra definition that a tightlining would provide), but for clothing, I prefer rive droit, as in truth, I am high maintenance.
FACE
red lips Perhaps there is nothing more classic, nor more glamorous, than red lipstick. I, of course, favor Giorgio Armani Armanisilk REDS #46 Bordeaux, but there is a perfect red for everyone. NARS makes the best ones, in my humble opinion, and the dry texture is actually ideal for strong color because it won't meander. Red Lizard is the perfect neutral cherry red, Gipsy is a soft rose-red for those fear strong color, Shanghai Express is a drop dead blood red touched with brown that is quite a fine universal, and for those who favor blue-reds, NARS, again, makes a fine one, Scarlet Empress. Once my GA runs out (it's limited edition), I will probably buy Scarlet Empress, the shade featured above.
sexy line The graphic look of black liquid liner (or the much easier to handle MAC Blacktrack Fluidline) seems the ideal counterpart to red lipstick. It's a strong statement, so it matches, but like an exclamation point, limited in its expressiveness, so it won't overwhelm. Me, I look too cute and precious in liquid liner, so I will merely tightline.
face powder A few decades past when women used to "powder their noses", a fine French face powder would have been a small luxury. These powders had coverage, and were usually "illuminating"; they would add light to the skin. Perhaps the most famous of these is T. LeClerc Banane, but I think Caron Poudre Peau Fine is far superior in quality—plus, it smells most decadently of roses.
highlight With strong lips, it's important not to choose too strong of a blush. A soft clear pink is appropriate, but I think for a radiant complexion I'd rather a fleshy shimmer instead: some on the lid, some on the cheekbones, everyone is happy. I prefer the silvered champagne of NARS All About Eve, and am hoping that Benefit Creaseless Cream Shadow/Liner in RSVP is a close match (it seems a waste to use only one shade in a duo).
CARE
scent It took me a while to understand the longstanding devotion that Guerlain L'Heure Bleue inspires from perfumers. It was released in 1912, so to a latter day nose, it can smell fusty. But in time, I have seen the light. This is a most aristocratic floral bouquet, with the classic Guerlinade fuzz like dust on an antique, rich with feminine mystery of days long gone. It is the scent of a lady, and thus can only be worn by one who knows the art of discretion, though I hear this is one of Kate Moss' favorites. How I long for a bottle of the parfum!
refine Decléor Baume Essentiel is a night treatment unlike any other: a beeswax-and-oil balm in which are suspended essential oils. It is a lush, silky balm that one melts in the hand before applying, but as it takes some time to absorb, it is strictly a night cream. Strangely enough, I find it balances and purifies the skin, refines and softens the skin's texture (it seems to be mildly, ever so mildly exfoliating, which is, again, odd, but perfect for those who can't use any exfoliants like me), and adds a definite glow. And it just smells lovely; all the French charm it can muster.
SHOP
cocktail Time to pull out the LBD (Alexander MCQueen in sublime black velvet), offset by the violet sparkle of amethyst earrings (Cathy Waterman). All that is additionally required is a pair of classic black pumps, and lo, an impeccable outfit.
casual What could be more classic or French than Repetto ballet flats, the queen of ballet shoes (made famous by Brigitte Bardot)? I've chosen a pair in nude suede, to take a page out of Coco Chanel's style tricks, whose own ballet flats originally came in tan to lengthen the leg. The best selections are at Dandelion Feet, Zoë, and Bird LA (where I ordered mine). It'll pair with practically everything, but nothing's simpler (or so instantly polished) to pull on than a dress, and this bright red knit dress from J. Crew pairs excellently with tan.
extras A trench coat. Gauloises Blondes. Pretty silk scarves for extra French flair.
Labels: alexander mcqueen, benefit, caron, cathy waterman, decleor, guerlain, j crew, mac cosmetics, nars, philosophy, repetto, style icon
Beauty Notes: The Minimalist Skin Care
Posted by Dain, Wednesday, August 01, 2007 12:58 AM (Eastern)
The Minimalist Eye is on hold for a couple days until my sister gets here and I can take some proper pictures. I can't find good pictures of liners and shadows on the web, so I'll do skin. I didn't want to do this first, as I've talked about the importance of skin before, as well as how to go about setting up a good skincare regime, so I will just outline the basics for your benefit.
Good skin depends on many variables, from humidity levels to hormones to diet to personal habits to age, in addition to the products you use. The hype that surrounds skincare is enormous, and justly so: good skin is the second to a beautiful (the first is symmetry). If you do not think this is true, look at every celebrity that has ever existed; not a single one has bad skin, even if tastes in weight, hair color, and so forth, have changed over the centuries. In their quest for a perfect complexion, people tend to forget how complex an organ the skin is, one honed over millions of years to take care of itself, which is why so many of us try to force it to be something it's not.
The companies, you will notice, have been quick to take advantage of this.
But I will tell you the truth, as I have naught to sell but advice: there is no such thing as a miracle. Believe me, your skin will look far better if you understand and accept its limitations, and learn to live with it. This is why maintenance, a regime that promotes the optimal health of your skin, should be your primary concern, while treatment is only secondary, when skin misbehaves. Maintenance promises no miracles, but better to be content with what you have than to overcompensate. You can actually damage your skin if you use too much of a good thing, or reduce its longterm effects (this is especially true of anti-acne products).
Here's how to set up a maintenance regime:
- Less is more Treat your skin like an intractable teenager; the best skincare routine strikes a delicate balance between providing for its needs and giving it the freedom to do its own thing. The skin has three needs: cleansing, exfoliating, hydration, and protection. Otherwise, let it breathe, let it heal, let it produce oil (oil is good for your skin).
- Gently does it It's called skincare for a reason. Treat your skin lovingly, don't abuse it. Use cool water to cleanse, a clean towel and pat (don't rub) dry, use eye makeup remover when necessary (instead of rubbing with cleanser), avoid harsh ingredients, apply products lightly (again, no rubbing).
- Cleanse should be thorough at removing makeup and grime, without stripping, and when rinsed, leave no film on the skin. If you wear tough eye makeup, I would recommend investing in a separate eye makeup remover like Lancôme Bi-Facil to facilitate the process, and avoid rubbing unnecessarily at delicate eye skin. Outstanding products, from the most emollient balm to a luxurious Japanese foam: LUSH Ultrabland (very delicate skin), Shu Uemura Cleansing Oil (balancing and effective), Cetaphil Gentle Skin Cleanser (a perennial favorite), Johnson's Head-to-Toe Baby Wash (the best foaming gel, without any harshness), and Shiseido Benefiance Creamy Cleansing Foam (the ultimate lather). I do not like medicated or exfoliating cleansers because of the dangers they pose to the eyes.
- Exfoliate Exfoliators are an amorphous category; they can take the form of a cleanser (physical scrubs), treatments and moisturizers (chemicals like BHAs or AHAs or vitamin C), sponges and mitts (like a viscose cloth or muslin squares) or even masks (often a combination of physical and chemical). They can be very gentle, like Dr. Hauschka Cleansing Cream (almond meal pressed into the skin with water) or Remede Sweep (microfine marble powder), or very powerful, like Bliss Labs Pore Refining Facial Scrub and La Prairie Retexturizing Booster. Due to the delicacy of my skin, I have yet to find an exfoliant that, in short, does not do horrible things to my skin, but I'm hoping Primavera Refining Exfoliating Cleanser, combined with an electric tooth brush, might be an exception.
- Hydrate There are so many moisturizers out there! But here are some I like. Kiehl's Blue Herbal Moisturizer has a very light, noncomedogenic, medicated gel-lotion perfect for acne-prone skin. For oily but not acne prone skin, Decléor Ylang Ylang Aromaessence, though it's an oil, really normalizes oily skin and controls excess sebum. I think Better Botanicals Dandelion Moisturizer is the ideal weight for combination or normal skin. For normal to dry skin, Kiehl's Ultra Facial is a tried and true classic. For very dry skin, La Prairie Time Release Intensive Moisturizer can't be beat. Myself, I am interested in Embryolisse Lait-Cr`me Concentré, but have yet to try it. You may need more than one moisturizer, depending on how temperamental your skin is.
- Protect A good sunscreen, like Olay Complete, is a necessity. The only true anti-ager. To be frank, I haven't found a sunscreen that doesn't smell bad or have a nasty texture, so I never wear any. Very bad, I know.
- Treat If maintenance is not enough, and your skin still misbehaves, secondary skincare may be necessary. For generally lackluster skin, I have had great success with Jurlique Herbal Recovery Gel (techinically a treatment, but I've been using it as a summerweight moisturizer); it's like a vitamin for the skin. Those who need something stronger may prefer La Prairie Retexturizing Booster or Awake Vital Express (AHAs/BHAs and vitamin C, respectively), which will also double as anti-acne agents. For senstivity or dryness, Burt's Bees Repair Serum is really remarkable, and so simple. My mother loves this as well.
Me, I stick to Cetaphil, and will add Lancôme Bi-Facil to my cleansing regime. A gentle exfoliant twice a week, when I find a good one. Depending on my skin's needs, I like the idea of Jurlique Herbal Recovery Gel, Burt's Bees Repair Serum, and Embryolisse Lait-Crème Concentré as my treatment/hydration arsenal, flexible enough to address all of my needs.
PRODUCT COUNT: Six, eye makeup remover, cleanser, exfoliant, summerweight moisturizer, winter cream, sensitivity/hydration/eye treatment.
Labels: awake, beauty notes, better botanicals, bliss, burt's bees, cetaphil, decleor, dr. hauschka, johnson's, jurlique, kiehl's, la prairie, LUSH, minimalism, olay, remede, shiseido, shu uemura, skin
Decleor Aromaessence Rose D'Orient
Posted by Dain, Tuesday, March 27, 2007 1:15 PM (Eastern)
An update after a week's worth of use.
My skin looks great, I'll admit. It could be the La Prairie or the Sisley, both of which I've been using. But they're not really treatment products, so I don't think it is.
At first, I reacted to it. Whatever essential oils are in it, they are potent (the scent is quite strong—I love it, but others might not). I was itchy and burning, which seemed odd considering that it is intended to treat sensitivity. But either I got used to it, or it is much better to use less (barely two drops), because I no longer have that issue.
The way you use it makes a big difference. I apply it to clean, freshly washed skin, just a bare couple of drops, and pat—notrub—it in. A sparing hand works better with such potent stuff. It makes a good "anchor" for your moisturizer afterwards, but of course it can be worn alone (in the summer).
My skin is extremely even-toned and fine-textured. By this, I mean that Rose D'Orient brightens and exfoliates (how, I do not know), and that it seems to diminish the size of my pores. Strangely, I find it drying; there's quite a bit of surface dryness, which if La Prairie can't address, I don't know what can. I think I may switch to Aromaessence Neroli in the future, better for drier skin. It will take ages to use up, though.
I really like the versatility of this system, because you can layer over it exactly what you need for moisture. I think this is a quality product, and they have aromaessences for all skin types: ylang ylang for oily and congested, iris for mature, and so forth. I wonder how it works with the Harmonie cream, or even with the Baume Rose D'Orient.
The Perfect Stash: Part 1 (skin)
Posted by Dain, Friday, March 23, 2007 12:22 AM (Eastern)
Perhaps you've heard the term "holy grail": it means a product that is perfection itself, and like the real holy grail, almost impossible to find*.
A perfect stash takes that concept to a systemic level: a collection of holy grails, none of which compete with each other, and form an aesthetic whole. It is an interesting exercise, especially if you're a makeup enthusiast like me with little to do (it is still vacation yet), but it tends to be little more than an exercise. You never really attain a perfect stash; it is exponentially more difficult than finding a holy grail.
But, it's fun. So here we go. I've put the current product in rotation first, under "candidates".
CLEANSER
requirements: non-foaming milky/lotion formulation, gentle, removes
makeup passably well, no residue left on skin, inexpensive
candidates: Cetaphil Gentle Skin Cleanser, I've tried many others, but
always I return to this—truly, it is perfect, though it doesn't remove
stubborn makeup (but I don't wear stubborn makeup)
TREATMENT
requirements: desensitizes, hydrates, brightens, and clarifies, in that order
candidates: Decleor Aromaessence Rose D'Orient, which I am just starting
to try now, as the Biotherm Biosensitive Anti-Redness Concentrate has been
discontinued. My skin is a little troubled now, so it's a good time to test it
out. I'm really not yet sure about it. Maybe plain jojoba oil would be better.
MOISTURIZER
requirements: gentle enough for sensitive skin, unpretentious (I hate
spurious claims), MUST smell good (I am very sensitive to anything I
consider noxious), preferably a cream for normal/dry skin (the perfect
weight for layering) but nongreasy (so it wears well under makeup), doesn't
break me out, if expensive, has low cost per use
candidates: La Prairie Cellular Day Cream, Sisley Creme Reparatrice (I
have a sample, but I'm thinking I don't like the scent), Decleor Harmonie
Gentle Soothing Cream, Better Botanicals Dandelion Moisturizer, Kiehl's
Ultra Facial Moisturizer, Body Time Lavender Cream, La Prairie Cellular
Time Release Moisture Intensive, Sisley Botanical Intensive Night Cream,
Creme de la Mer, Fresh Rice Face Cream, Nuxe Creme Fraiche Riche, Nuxe
Creme Nirvanesque Enrichie, Kerstin Florian Rejeuvenating 24-Hour
Moisture Creme
EXFOLIANT
requirements: most exfoliants are way too rough for me, whether they be
physical or chemical, so something very, very gentle, that unplugs my pores
candidates: Jurlique Face Wash Cream, which I have never tried... I'm
thinking the Decleor Aromaessence seems to exfoliate well enough on its
own, though—perhaps it means something that I've never been able to use
an exfoliant successfully
So the final skincare stash? How minimalist is this?
Cetaphil Gentle Skin Cleanser
Decleor Aromaessence Rose D'Orient
La Prairie Cellular Day Cream
*I'm not sure, but I think I coined the phrase, really long ago. Of course, everyone uses it now, so it really doesn't matter.
Labels: cetaphil, decleor, jurlique, la prairie, skin
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March 23, 2007 11:57 PM, Colleen Shirazi said...
It would be incredibly cool if you had coined that phrase. I can say, it was already there when I joined LP, and the way people were using it, I had the impression the term had been around for quite some time (i.e. no one ever talked about where it came from, the way "cold turkey" and UEU were talked about on LP when the terms were new). |
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Haul from France...
Posted by Dain, Thursday, March 22, 2007 2:35 PM (Eastern)
Hi! I'm back. Vacation was great. Here is my haul...
La Prairie Cellular Day Cream: At Zurich (Switzerland) duty free, it was €89, which is about $118, the same in the US. This is one of the original products, unchanged since the 70s. It is a rich cream for normal to normal/dry skin, without frills. It has a wonderful texture, and you need only a little. The scent is powdery, not my favorite, but I don't mind it. This is a really top-notch product, and it has no pretensions—which I really like. I am very content with this face cream, and will use it to the dregs (it'll take me a while!), but I'm not convinced this is the "one". I am still curious about Sisley Creme Reparatrice and Decleor Harmonie Gentle Soothing Cream, both of which are cheaper in France. I wonder if I need more moisture, in which case the La Prairie Cellular Time Release Moisture Intensive might be better.
Decléor Aromaessence Rose D'Orient: At Galeries Lafayette in Nice, €42 ($55), about ten dollars cheaper. This smells wonderful, like sweet rose and neroli, but quite strong. It's high quality oils (sweet almond, black currant, corn oil, bitter orange, tocopherol, sunflower seed, neroli, carrot extract, rose, chamomile), and a drop or two is all you need, so one bottle, though expensive, will last a long while. I pat it into freshly cleansed skin, and apply moisturizer over it (La Prairie). The first time I used it, my skin was reactive, burned and itched a little, but I've since learned to use less, because the oils are so potent. It's not as nourishing as you might think (neroli or iris might be better if you have dry skin), so I definitely need a moisturizer over it, at least in the winter. Strangely, it has an exfoliating effect. I think this product needs more time to see its virtues, but I will say that when I wake up, I can see a difference: my skin looks bright and clean and healthy.
Caron Poudre Peau Fine Compact No. 5: At Galeries Lafayette in Nice, €31.50 ($42), about the same in the US, but it's almost impossible to find in America. There is a Caron store in New York, that is it. I've been dying to try it: I'd heard it was superior even to LeClerc in quality, and the Chanel compact I had been using had been discontinued. The shade I got is supposed to match the loose powder shades in Madame, Gitane, Noisette, and Tango. I chose the pressed power, because I don't really bother with loose. The compact is very presentable, small but heavy in the hand, in shiny gold with dots. It's very vintage 40s, and almost impossible to identify: unlike Chanel (the new pressed powder is a bit coarse for my liking, why did they change it?), Guerlain (Les Meteorites had a funny whitish cast, and Les Violettes, while good, has a beautiful but cheap construction, both are much more expensive), YSL (not tightly pressed enough, a sign of lesser quality, a pressed powder should be hard, not soft, to the touch), LeClerc (too drying). The powder inside is scented with real Bulgarian rose (which I like), very finely milled and tightly pressed, a flesh tone with a little peach in it; it reminds me of YSL Touche Eclat, with perhaps a little less pink. It's almost undetectable on (I use my Kevyn Aucoin Large Blush and Powder brush or the wonderful fine-textured sponge from the Kevyn Aucoin The Gossamer Loose Powder, rather than the puff it comes with), it's just got a slight diffusing effect that adds light to tired skin, but it doesn't look like you're wearing anything, just velvety, poreless skin. Which is perfect for me, because I don't like to wear foundation because it makes my skin feel dirty, even tinted moisturizer (the only exception being Chantecaille Real Skin). It does emphasize any dry patches, but any powder will do that. Perhaps this is premature, but I really consider this my HG! It is a superb product, just very difficult to find.
PHYTO Phytonectar Ultra Nourishing Shampoo: Only €12, at any pharmacie, which a little over half the price in America, I already love this shampoo. My hair is very long and dry, and this supergentle, luxurious shampoo cleans without stripping, all without noxious silicones. And it smells so good, like an explosion of orange blossoms in your shower. I almost also bought the Le Petit Marseillaise Shower Gel in Fleurs D'Oranger, the same scent, but decided against it when I remembered that I have plenty of body wash at home. It should be noted that the infamous glass bottles, which I rather liked (but I realize they are dangerous) have been replaced with unbreakable metal bottles.
PHYTO Phytorhum Fortifying Shampoo: I haven't tried this one yet, but I bought this because I heard it was even better than the Phytonectar. This one repairs damage. You are supposed to shampoo twice and leave it in. It smells like egg nog, for real. You can definitely smell the spiced rum and eggs. I'm gonna try it tonight.
L'Occitane Miel Incense: Another product I love, also about half the price it is in the US (€9.50). It's one of my favorite things ever, it smells like honey and meadow flowers; this is the third tube (there are 40 sticks inside).
That's it! I was very good and got only what I needed. I still need to buy: NARS Habanera Duo, NARS Pandora Duo, NARS Sin Blush, NARS Desire Blush (my roommate dropped mine and I have very little left), a lipstick to replace Maybelline Drippin' Honey (so I'm searching for the perfect blackberry stain, with just the right amount of brown in it), a lipstick to replace MAC Red Haute (maybe YSL Rouge Pur Shine no. 8), Kevyn Aucoin The Eye Pencil Primatif in Basic Black, Frederic Fekkai Glossing Cream, Chanel Lavande Eyeshadow single, Serge Lutens Tubereuse Criminelle, Chanel Allure, NARS Nepal, NARS Bombshell, NARS Shanghai Empress, and I need to settle on the perfect deep conditioner and everyday conditioner, but I don't know what.
Labels: caron, decleor, hair, l'occitane, la prairie, phyto, skin
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March 22, 2007 9:12 PM, Colleen Shirazi said...
Welcome back! Sounds like excellent, well-thought-out shopping. |
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Cosmetics ennui...
Posted by Dain, Friday, March 09, 2007 6:57 PM (Eastern)
Yes, it most certainly happens. I've been feeling it of late. You turn around, look at your stash, it all feels dull, what is a girl supposed to do? Buy some new toys, no? I am feeling the skincare binge itch (skincare is my big weakness). The products in bold are my wishlist: I haven't tried most of them.
I was trying to think up a routine that meets my new needs (dry and sensitive), while still being flexible enough for the summer, when my skin is more normal. How would I go about this? If I am dealing with grails, then price is only secondarily important to the efficacy of the product. My skin is quite parched in the winter, and reacts badly to chemical agents and some botanicals (calendula, for example). Otherwise, it is pretty much normal/combination—it can get a little oilier if I sweat a lot. Even when it's oily, my skin is usually quite dehydrated, though not for lack of care. I have clogged pores, but they're small. I break out very infrequently, though moreso of late. And since I'm young, I'm not particularly interested in heavy-duty anti-aging, though I think I should start, maybe with some sort of antioxidant treatment.
So there you are. That's what my skin is like (as if you wanted to know). I think it's very difficult to rate reviews for skincare because there's quite a wide range of skin types, so knowing your reviewer is important.
Let's start with the basics.
First, cleanser. Now, there are all sorts and plenty of hype. I prefer cleansers that are simple, largely because they don't interact with your skin long enough to have any "treatment" effects before it all goes down the drain. Consider how different a moisturizer is; it sits on your skin for hours and hours. Cleansers should, first of all, clean, gently and effectively. They can exfoliate, but I'm not really a fan—personally, because my skin is too delicate for scrubs, and generally, because you need a separate eye makeup remover. Can you imagine what might happen if you got a jojoba bead or some glycolic acid in there? I can see some virtue to medicated cleansers if you are very acne-prone, but everyone else is much better off using a standard cleanser. An exception to this rule are "balm" cleansers—Eve Lom, LUSH Ultrabland, Liz Earle, Boots, In Fiore (as you can see, it is very English, this trend). I've tried a couple of these, and they remove makeup very well and the extra massage/exfoliation is nice, but they're a time-consuming ritual. Easier to use are oil cleansers, like Shu Uemura's, which rinse off like any other cleanser (and therefore, little exfoliation), but still have the magical makeup-removing and pore-unclogging properties. One the opposite end of the spectrum are foaming cleansers, from the luxurious Japanese foam cleansers (Clé de Peau and Pola and many similar lines) to your standard foaming gel (I like Cetaphil Oily Skin Cleanser, Johnson's Head-to-Toe—I think, if you like this formulation, it's not worth buying expensive because the ingredients are very basic, and drugstore cleansers perform equally well, if not better, with much less fuss) to face soaps (DHC makes a good one). There are of course gel cleansers that do not foam; I particularly like Lancôme Clarifiance, a refreshing non-foaming gel, as THE basic cleanser for oily skin. Nivea makes a good copycat. But my favorite type of cleanser is the milky, or lotion/cream, cleanser. And for this, none is better than Cetaphil Gentle Skin Cleanser. It does wonders for my skin, plus it's cheap and totally innocuous, and I personally find that it removes makeup well enough, but I wear light makeup. Whenever I stray, I always come back.
Second, a toner? Most experts agree that toners aren't necessary, that modern cleansers are effective on their own (and you shouldn't be using a cleanser that leaves a film on your skin anyway). However, they are kinda nice, in a ritualistic sense, are they not? My favorite is Dr. Hauschka Facial Toner, which smells weird but wonderful, is full of potent botanicals, and comes in an easy spray (I hate fiddling with cotton pads). There are, of course, many good toners, from the gentlest rosewater from Jurlique to the most powerful astringents from Kiehl's Blue Herbal. I do not, however, need a toner, so I will leave that out of my calculations. It has more a placebo effect than anything else.
Third, treatments. This is where you find firepower; it's a good idea to make an investment here. Treatments ought to go first on the skin, after toner if you use one, because they will absorb better and be more effective that way. This strategy also has the added bonus of allowing you to choose very basic moisturizers, and switch them around to your skin's moisture needs. This is sometimes complicated by the fact that there are many moisturizers that treat in addition to hydrating. I suggest keeping an open mind and ignoring copy, especially with expensive products, samples and a long testing period are a good idea (at least two weeks): you know best what works for you. So if a face cream works as a brightening treatment, or a face oil for reducing shine, or even no treatment at all because you already have great skin, why not? Treatments address these following concerns: acne, aging, sensitivity, and lightening. Salicylic acid will combat acne, as will benzoyl peroxide, sulfur, glycolic acid (and other hydroxies, La Prairie makes the best glycolic serum, called Retexturizing Booster), oxygen, hydrogen peroxide, vitamin c, lemon extract, among others. Some of these are extremely irritating (I can only use salicylic acid myself). Some work by disinfecting and killing bacteria, others still exfoliate and unclog pores. In this latter sense, it may be better to invest in a face oil like Decléor Aromaessence Ylang Ylang or even pure jojoba oil. It may seem counterintuitive to use oil on your face, but in fact it's an excellent for unclogging pores, banishing flakes, and even oil control, all without irritation. I only need an occasional spot treatment, such as Kiehl's Blue Herbal, which is salicylic-acid based; another good option is a clay mask used as a spot treatment, like Fresh Umbrian Clay Treatment and Queen Helene Mint Julep. For anti-aging, the best ingredients are humectants and oils, antioxidants, vitamin c, oxygen, and hydroxy acids. Vitamin c, oxygen, and alpha hydroxies have the added virtue of combating acne, as well, if you want one product that does it all. Otherwise, anti-aging products mostly just hydrate the skin, because the biggest difference between young and old skin is hydration levels and skin elasticity (the latter can only be prevented, not treated). There are a lot of promises, of course, from caviar extract to kinerase to sake water (or whatever SK-II is supposed to be). I'm interested in trying Jurlique Herbal Recovery Gel, because I almost always do better with botanically based products. I may be allergic to some of the ingredients, but it's hard to say until one tries a product. I think it would be perfect, antioxidant gel that's somewhere in between treatment and toner. I can wear it alone when my skin is oilier, or layer it underneath moisturizer. If not, I'm also interested in In Fiore Complexe de Fleur, though I haven't heard anything about it. The third major treatment is desensitizing, which ranges from healing sores to alleviating sunburned skin to calming allergic reactions. Common ingredients are aloe vera, lavender, calendula, chamomile, oatmeal, and rose, as well as a plethora of healing oils and butters. I very much like Biotherm's Biosentive Anti-Redness Concentrate, it is amazing for restoring tired, parched, reactive skin. I go through it so quickly, so I'm considering instead Decléor Aromaessence Rose D'Orient, which I can wear alone, over the Jurlique Herbal Recovery Gel, or under a rich moisturizer. It is a more expensive investment, but you only need a few drops at a time. And finally, the last treatment, "lightening", which ranges from the most intense whitening treatments for hyperpigmentation (I've never tried any whitening product myself) to gentle radiance/brightening treatments for dull skin (Nuxe Crème Fraïche brightens the skin, for example, even though it's just a moisturizer and not a "treatment"). Hydroquinine, vitamin c, and hydrators in general, are common ingredients.
Fourth, moisturizer, in some ways the most important step. I prefer simple moisturizers just as I prefer simple cleansers, though fancier creams manage simple hydration very well too. The reason for this is threefold: you shouldn't overload your skin with products in the first place, too many intense products taken altogether are actually less effective for most people (a good example is acne, the bacteria will build resisitances if you insist on zapping them), and I don't actually believe in separate day creams and night creams and eye creams—they are all moisturizers. There is much debate over whether oily skin needs moisturizer. If you use a treatment, that may be all the moisture you need, especially if you are very oily. There are of course matifying lotions, none of which I have any firsthand expertise, though my friends like Kiehl's Blue Herbal. I recommend, for oily skin, Complex 15. It's an extremely light gel formulation, very gentle and noncomedogenic, so it gives hydration without irritating acne. If Cetaphil were a moisturizer, this would be it (I prefer the cream, but there's a lotion; I don't think there's any discernible difference, though). Another option, especially if you don't have acne and just oily skin, is a clarifying face oil, such as Decléor Ylang Ylang or Dr. Hauschka Normalizing Day Oil or even pure jojoba oil. For normal skin, I like Better Botanicals Dandelion Moisturizer and Kiehl's Ultra Facial, the latter is richer. For dry skin, creams and balms abide: La Prairie Cellular Day Cream is what I'm lusting after, though I am curious about Sisley's Restorative Facial Cream and Decléor's Harmonie Gentle Soothing Cream. An inexpensive cream that's rich is Body Time's Lavender Cream and Biotherm's Biosensitive Cream. If even this is not enough, there are rich, waxy balms for your perusal, but I think dry skin is best approached through a layering of products: a hydrating treatment underneath a rich cream works well.
Fifth, is an exfoliant. Along with cleansing and moisturizing, exfoliating is the most important thing you can do for your skin. Not everyone needs a treatment, after all (and ideally, if you take care of your skin well, a treatment shouldn't be so pressing). There are two types of exfoliants, chemical and physical. Physical exfoliants are scrubs and scrubby cleansers. For oilier skin, Bliss Pore-Perfecting Facial Polish is an excellent choice; for drier, Remedé Sweep with its microfine marble powder. A scrub should be used no more than three times weekly, and certainly not more than once a week if you have dry and delicate skin. A balm cleanser does work for daily exfoliation, as well. Chemical exfoliants are generally hydroxies, beta or alpha, though sometimes one sees fruit enzymes. These are left on the skin, either as a treatment or a moisturizer, though a product like YSL's Gommage Natural Action Exfoliater is a chemical "scrub". The best I know is La Prairie's Retexturizing Booster, but it is extremely potent (I can't use it). Exfoliating masks can have both chemical and physical exfoliants. As for me, I can barely use any of these products, so my solution is to use a "paste" cleanser like Jurlique's Face Wash Cream (similar to Dr. Hauschka's Cleansing Cream), which you massage into skin by "rolling" rather than "scrubbing", and it serves as a detox exfoliant. Apparently, it works better with an AHC (Aromatic Hydrating Concentrate), so I would like to test the Rose-Chamomile AHC (there are others for other skin types).
Sixth, is sunscreen. Though dermatologists say that this the most essential anti-aging product, I have to admit, I don't use any. I hate how sunscreens feel on my skin.
Seventh, are extra amenities. This includes eye makeup remover, face masks, acne spot treatments (spots can happen to anyone, after all, so it's good to have on hand, unlike general acne treatments, which are meant to be applied all over and intended for acne-prone skin), lip balms, eye creams, and whatever else I have forgotten. I think all of these products, if you choose rightly, are unessential. However, they are fun to use. So I leave it to your discretion.
So here is my routine:
CLEANSER Cetaphil Gentle Skin Cleanser
TREATMENT Jurlique Herbal Recovery Gel & Decléor Aromaessence Rose D'Orient
MOISTURIZER La Prairie Cellular Day Cream
EXFOLIANT Jurlique Face Wash Cream & Rose Chamomile AHC
I don't know if all of these products (striken) are necessary, and in addition, I'm not sure I need two treatment products: I could just use Biotherm Biosensitive Anti-Redness Concentrate for antioxidant and desensitizing and brightening properties all three. But, really, the point here is to try new products, no?
Labels: decleor, dr. hauschka, jurlique, kiehl's, la prairie, skin
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