Notes from the Editors of The Lipstick Page Forums: A Dedication to the Art of Beauty and Fashion.

Meet the Staff: The Sketchbook

· Blog Home
· Profile
· MySpace
· Contact Us
· FAQ/TOS

On This Page
· Beauty Notes: Christian Dior Eau Sauvage Review
· Beauty Notes: Diorissimo Review (vintage vs. reorchestration)
· Beauty Notes: Christian Dior Diorling Review
· The Mnemonic Sense: Evolution
· Beauty Notes: Christian Dior Diorissimo Review
· Fantasy Web Find of the Day: Dior Fine Jewelry Bagatelle Ring
· Fashion Notes: Countdown to Spring
· Beauty Notes: When You Are Old...
· Style Icon: Lauryn Hill
· Favorite "high end" beauty products
· Beauty breakthroughs
· Beauty Notes: Obsessions (5.23.06)
· Beauty Notes: Obsessions (12.24.05)
· Beauty Notes: Hauling (11.27.05)
· Beauty Notes: Dior 5-Color Eyeshadow
· Beauty Notes: Obsessions (5.13.05)

Comments
· July 1, 2008 12:00 PM by Blogger Carol
· July 1, 2008 2:48 PM by Blogger Dain
· July 1, 2008 3:23 PM by Blogger Colleen Shirazi
· March 17, 2008 11:14 PM by Blogger Colleen Shirazi
· March 18, 2008 11:30 AM by Blogger Dain
· January 25, 2008 9:03 PM by Blogger Colleen Shirazi
· January 25, 2008 10:03 PM by Blogger Dain
· August 22, 2007 12:57 PM by Blogger Colleen Shirazi
· August 22, 2007 1:11 PM by Blogger Dain
· August 22, 2007 1:24 PM by Blogger Dain
· August 22, 2007 2:14 PM by Blogger Colleen Shirazi
· August 22, 2007 2:35 PM by Blogger Dain
· August 22, 2007 2:44 PM by Blogger Dain
· August 22, 2007 3:07 PM by Blogger Colleen Shirazi
· August 22, 2007 3:36 PM by Blogger Dain
· August 22, 2007 3:55 PM by Blogger Colleen Shirazi
· August 22, 2007 7:57 PM by Blogger cmm
· August 22, 2007 10:16 PM by Blogger Colleen Shirazi
· August 22, 2007 11:31 PM by Blogger Dain

Archives
· Beauty Blog (2003-2004)
· Fashion Blog (archive)
· New Releases Blog (archive)
· Beauty Articles (archive)
· April 2005
· May 2005
· June 2005
· July 2005
· August 2005
· September 2005
· October 2005
· November 2005
· December 2005
· January 2006
· February 2006
· March 2006
· April 2006
· May 2006
· June 2006
· July 2006
· August 2006
· September 2006
· October 2006
· November 2006
· December 2006
· January 2007
· February 2007
· March 2007
· April 2007
· May 2007
· June 2007
· July 2007
· August 2007
· September 2007
· October 2007
· November 2007
· December 2007
· January 2008
· February 2008
· March 2008
· April 2008
· May 2008
· June 2008
· July 2008

Blog
Recent blog posts:





Links
Barneys
refinery29
The Sartorialist
Jargol
Perfume Shrine
Ambre Gris
Polyvore
The Fashioniste
The Powder Group
LA-Story.com
Dain's Literary Attempts
Colleen's Beading Blog
Colleen's Adult Acne Blog

The Beauty Blog Network



Blog Directory
Add to Technorati Favorites
eponym blog directory BETA
As Seen on Delightfulblogs.com
Health Blogs - Blog Top Sites
Eponym Blog Directory.
TBF Project:Blog
Health Blogs - Blog Catalog Blog Directory
Search For Blogs, Submit Blogs, The Ultimate Blog Directory
Find Blogs in the Blog Directory
 
The Lipstick Page Forums Beauty & Fashion Blog


Beauty Notes: Christian Dior Eau Sauvage Review
Posted by Dain, Tuesday, July 01, 2008 12:03 AM (Eastern)

Mary Cassatt, The Boating Party (1893-1894). I love how she's
captured the quality of light off the water so accurately.

I've never really cared for citrus. It's a natural choice for climates that get very hot, but in the dilute light of New England one tends to gravitate towards richer things, with just a little hesperidic shimmer on the top. Consequently, I've passed by cologne, perfumery's homage to citrus, the way chypres are to oakmoss and soliflores are to florals. Traditionally, kölnisch wasser (hence the Gallic reiteration, "eau de cologne") is an antique blend of citrus extracts dating from the 1700s, usually accented by aromatic herbs. To this day, colognes rarely deviate from this formula, lest they destroy the crisp delicacy that makes them so appealing in the heat and humidity. Sometimes aldehydes power its diffusion (Chanel Cristalle, which I'll review with the chypres), sometimes there are jasmine petals on the breeze (Christian Dior Eau Sauvage), sometimes a hint of sweaty coumarin runs as a dark undercurrent (Ô de Lancôme), sometimes it's lemonade with plenty of sugar (Dolce & Gabbana Light Blue), sometimes the herbs are stronger (Annick Goutal Eau d'Hadrien) and sometimes more ethereal (Guerlain Eau de Guerlain), but the moment you throw something like tuberose or amber into the mix, you destroy the refreshing lightness that makes hesperides what they are. The longevity is generally insignificant, but with such a narrowed focus on top notes, it cannot be helped.

To choose one out of so many would be an arbitrary decision. It's impossible not to enjoy the chilled, minty fresh Eau de Guerlain, or the dry martini of Cristalle, but I like Eau Sauvage the best of them all. All its elements are exactly balanced: lemon and bitter petitgrain form the centerpiece, a very sparing touch of rosemary (for its piney pitch) and basil (for its eugenol spice), and a thread of hedione running through the heart like stray jasmine petals caught in a filmy veil, and in the drydown lurks plenty of vetiver with a hint of coumarin, for a little grit. Instead of larding the composition with exotic notes, Roudnitska seems to have stripped the traditional cologne down to a purist core, a move that must have been wildly innovative at the time (1966), after decades of orientalism (the 30s) and aldehydism (the 50s). Don't let the masculine categorization fool you, there's a shadowy twist that is assuredly a nod towards the sauvage, but it's just as elegant on a woman, nothing edgy about it.

Labels: , ,


3 comment(s)  
 
July 1, 2008 12:00 PM, Blogger Carol said...

Lemonade with sugar, thats a really good description of Light Blue.

Around here its common for Amish ladies to bake these big soft sugar cookies,sometimes they flavor them lemon or orange and sell them either at a farm stand in their yard or at a local grocery store, anyhoos, that's exactly what Light Blue smells like to me, a big, soft,frosted, Lemon sugar cookie. I knew it smelled like something, I just couldn't label it until I read your description. No point,just wanted to share.

I almost hate myself for loving the scent so much. Its good for me to fall in love with something as such, keeps me from being a completely insufferable snob! LOL!

I've read lots of reviews that says everybody else and their mother wears it, luckily NOBODY around here is into perfume. I've never smelled it on anyone else. Ever. There are a few advantages to living in the boonies! ;)

 
July 1, 2008 2:48 PM, Blogger Dain said...

Ironic, but... I just got myself a big bag of lemons and my sister and I made some lemonade.

Actually, I don't think there's anything low-class about Light Blue. It's well executed by top noses for a top company—just because it isn't niche doesn't mean it isn't great. I've definitely noticed, even though I began with niche, they're not the ones I end up buying. I have officially only bought one Serge Lutens, ever. I've thought about almost all of them, at some point or another, but it didn't inspire the gotta-buy instinct in me the way that so many Guerlains have done.

Light Blue is too sweet for me, insofar that anything sweet makes me feel slightly sick now (notable exceptions being, um, FM Le Parfum de Therese, which smells like fruit salad), but Chandler Burr (perfume critic for NYT) says this of Light Blue: "Dolce & Gabbana's Light Blue is an absolutely terrific perfume, rich without a trace of heaviness, sweet without a hint of stickiness. It smells like the freshest lemon-cake batter. Ever."

 
July 1, 2008 3:23 PM, Blogger Colleen Shirazi said...

If it works, it works. :) If it smells divine, lasts acceptably, and falls within what you want to pay, by all means, buy it.

Niche is like anything else that's new...it begins as a fad, and lots of people jump into doing it, hoping to make money.

After a while, the novelty wears off, and only the people who are good at it remain.

I'm still pondering my next 'fume purchase...I won't buy anything new until I've used up Etro Heliotrope, anyway...but I'm fairly sure it'll be a Patou, either Sublime or Joy, both mainstream.

 
Post a comment (NO SPAM) Permalink . del.icio.us . Stumble



Beauty Notes: Diorissimo Review (vintage vs. reorchestration)
Posted by Dain, Thursday, May 22, 2008 12:02 AM (Eastern)

I didn't expect to get so carried away by the prudish lily of the valley, but I enjoyed Serge Lutens Un Lys, an easy, protypical blend of lilies of all kinds, and found the silvery streak of lily of valley tantalising in Chanel No. 19, so via the associative process by which we all attempt perfumes, I turned to the iconic lily of the valley of them all: Diorissimo. I have reviewed Diorissimo before, but it was a drive-by rave, announcing my apostasy from I've-wanted-it-for-years Tubéreuse Criminelle from Serge Lutens as the Big White Floral in my perfume wardrobe, which I've since backslided on.

Spring is here, at last! And summer's right around the corner...

The lily of the valley is rarely noticed outside of a soliflore; it is the Artemis of flowers, fierce and chaste at once, as impossible to capture as a beam of moonlight. (It must be recreated synthetically; Edmond Roudnitska famously planted lily of the valley in his garden in order to assure the accuracy of his Diorissimo.) Like the flower itself, which tucks itself away under yew bushes, forcing the quester of aromas to drag her knees through the earth to get close to its cold, high-pitched scent, it tends to be equally shy and elusive within a composition, easily shouldered aside by brassy, attention-whore notes (of which perfumery, as in life, is full), and only in the aforementioned No. 19, because it is so still and cold itself, have I ever been able to recognize its shine. Diorissimo is hands down the best lily of the valley soliflore I've tested, including Caron Muguet de Bonheur and the degraded Coty Muguet des Bois (both are too soapy for me), and thanks to the kind Wendy, I was able to test the vintage as well as the reorchestration.

I have to admit, I prefer the reorchestration. It is the exact smell of the lily of the valley that grows in pleasing profusion in my backyard (I just went and sniffed, braving allergies, to make sure): that pure, clear, tinkling floral aroma, as fragile as a soap bubble. The vintage is more dimensional but less emphatic about lily of the valley, braced by a fruity accord like overripe apples through its opening and a gently animalic musk that powders it lightly in the drydown. But whether you prefer the vintage or the reorchestration, Diorissimo is flat-out glamorous, a womanly scent. Though I've personally decided against it, I do love how it makes me feel like a little girl in bed, your mother a silhouette in the warm dark, the swish of her gown (it's a night at the opera), and the lingering smell of Diorissimo that hangs in the air, like a benediction, after she's gone and you've slipped into dreamland.

* By all rights, the iris is technically a member of the lily family, but I felt it deserved its own focus, while the lilac, in the form of Fréréric Malle En Passant, is technically of the olive family, but I include it here because it smells lily-like (hyacinths, more specifically).

Labels: , ,


0 comment(s)  
 
Post a comment (NO SPAM) Permalink . del.icio.us . Stumble



Beauty Notes: Christian Dior Diorling Review
Posted by Dain, Monday, March 17, 2008 12:12 PM (Eastern)

I love how she yowls, "I'm not living with you,
we just occupy the same cage, that's all."

Cabochard is not sufficiently unique from Bandit, with all those angles hammered into submission, and I like those angles, it's like watching Madonna videos, an attitude that stuns. Diorling, on the other hand, is a tame leather chypre, an entirely different animal, very ladylike and proper. If she's naughty, it's behind closed doors, all those disturbing tendencies smoothed under fine silk and flowers and tinkling crystal. She is high maintenance, that's all. It's the ultimate flirtation: leather comes first, like a slap from a glove, followed by a conciliatory bouquet of jasmine, rose, and iris, slightly sharp and fresh, and a quick kiss that brings one closer to over-powdered skin, and of course the rhythmic warmth of oakmoss and vetiver. Categorically, it owes much to Bandit, but I also find it not dissimilar to Cuir de Russie, in that Diorling also seems to belong to another era, before female emancipation made discretion an outmoded genre.

I daresay this is only the reorchestration, but it is still magnificent, I'm simply a fan of leathery chypres. A pity you can only get in Paris.

Labels: , ,


2 comment(s)  
 
March 17, 2008 11:14 PM, Blogger Colleen Shirazi said...

I suppose it's a sign of age, but I kept thinking, poor kid. Of course in real life, I don't see any man turning her down, not even someone who looks like Paul Newman.

 
March 18, 2008 11:30 AM, Blogger Dain said...

Really? I feel sorry for her too. I believe in the play it's implied that he's gay. The movie is great, though you can definitely sense that it's structured around a play, the way everything seems to happen in just one room, though maybe it's a sign of the golden age of Hollywood starting to disappear. It's funny to think that Paul Newman now makes organic pasta sauces and salad dressings somewhere in northern New England.

 
Post a comment (NO SPAM) Permalink . del.icio.us . Stumble



The Mnemonic Sense: Evolution
Posted by Dain, Wednesday, February 27, 2008 10:45 AM (Eastern)

I have tested so many now, and at first it is a bit like when you first try a vaporizer—you're so stoned you just fumble around the universe looking for a clue—but in the way of all addictions, be it perfume or pot, the initial chaos subsides into jaded acclimatization. Nowadays, the most exciting substance in my life is strong coffee, and likewise my perfume wardrobe is really taking on some clarity, though its final shape is still unclear. Slated for certain purchase are Caron En Avion and Christian Dior Diorissimo; Serge Lutens Bois et Fruits is a more uncertain candidate. Given my well documented distaste for redundancy, they don't smell much like each other—a seriously complicated powdery/floral/spicy leather chypre, an unabashedly feminine lily-of-the-valley soliflore, and a polished cedar set off by sparkling fruit notes—but they all seem to possess uncontested elegance, radiant wit, and more than a little reservation. Though I gravitate towards with distinct, strong characters (which leaves most fruits, gourmands, citrus, and aquatics outside of my estimation), not for me is an effusive, showy perfume like Jean Patou Joy nor a dark and moody thing like ETRO Messe de Minuit, two perfumes with character I admire greatly but... But? Wouldn't buy. My taste runs towards the intellectually complicated but emotionally serene—if scent is supposed to telegraph our personalities to others, that must be my fantasy of myself (though not necessarily the reality =P).

My choices surprise me, actually. Not the Caron, of course, I would have figured as much. En Avion is pure perfume kismet. If I had to live on one perfume alone, a signature scent, this would be it. 25 mL for $180? I don't begrudge it. But lily of the valley? I always thought myself a tuberose girl, less fussy and unbuttoned. Diorissimo, though more delicate and refined, a touch honeyed, a touch green, a touch earthy, is no less womanly. For this reason, white florals are perfect for romantic occasions, but they are great for warmer weather, too, if you're not inclined to wear citrus. And Bois et Fruits surprises me most of all. I hate fruit in perfumes, that thin, artificial smell, but I adore this one, it is so gentle and light: the lightest wood and tangy, wild fruits smoothed over with an overdose of Iso E Super and a hint of musk. It makes me think of honey.

Is something missing? Hm, I don't know. I'll keep Parfum Sacré in there, for its warmth, as the others (even Bois et Fruits) are pretty cool and dry.

On a slightly related note, since I'm hashing about perfumes, apparently, there has been a PDF copy of Parfums: Le Guide, the 1994 version, online, in the original French.

Labels: , , , ,


0 comment(s)  
 
Post a comment (NO SPAM) Permalink . del.icio.us . Stumble



Beauty Notes: Christian Dior Diorissimo Review
Posted by Dain, Tuesday, January 29, 2008 9:06 PM (Eastern)


On a very rare occasion, one encounters a perfume that constitutes a seismic shift. For a very long time now, I've been pining after a bottle of Serge Lutens Tubéreuse Criminelle, and no doubt you have all grown tired of my bitchin' and moanin'. I have tried at least a dozen tuberose soliflores in the hope I might find something comparable but accessible. Diorissimo is not comparable. It is far greater—no contest, I have samples of both in my eager little hands. In a rare moment of truthful advertising, Diorissimo is exactly what the image implies: absolute splendor, the radiance of a rarely seen smile, the height of feminine poise, and in spite of its cool standoffishness, a frisson of sex appeal that appeals all the greater for its reserve. Tantalized by a hint in the even icier Chanel No. 19, I turned to the iconic lily of the valley, a delicate yet heady white floral that pools at your feet like the finest lace. Never would I have imagined my favors to shift so decidedly, so instantly, but perhaps that is a testament to this masterpiece. I swoon. I need to find myself a bottle of this right away, preferably in the largest possible, as I will go through it like water.

My perfume wardrobe is shaping up rather differently than I had imagined it would: Diorissimo, Parfum Sacré, Bandit, and maybe Bois et Fruits. But it strikes me a highly respectable list, a very long way from the days when Lolita Lempicka topped my wishlist (a scent abhorrent to me now).

Labels: , ,


0 comment(s)  
 
Post a comment (NO SPAM) Permalink . del.icio.us . Stumble



Fantasy Web Find of the Day: Dior Fine Jewelry Bagatelle Ring
Posted by Dain, Thursday, January 24, 2008 11:23 AM (Eastern)

Just a quick post today, working on Beauty Notebook.
I tend to prefer my jewelry to be abstract; it seems to drive home the artificiality, the purely decorative reality of a bauble. "Inspired from nature", generally leaves me cold. That is baby jewelry, in my mind, a little girl's instinct for flowers mummified in frozen gold and glittering gems. The effect is a little too precious. Still, roses for Valentine's Day must inevitably wilt, and this rose gold and pink diamond festivity from Dior Fine Jewelry never will. Call 212-931-2950 for further details.

Labels: ,


2 comment(s)  
 
January 25, 2008 9:03 PM, Blogger Colleen Shirazi said...

I'm not always nuts about flowers in jewelry, but they can be done well.

 
January 25, 2008 10:03 PM, Blogger Dain said...

Agreed. I was thinking of more of strawberry studs. That's just a little too much for me.

 
Post a comment (NO SPAM) Permalink . del.icio.us . Stumble



Fashion Notes: Countdown to Spring
Posted by Dain, Friday, January 18, 2008 9:15 AM (Eastern)

Here are my votes for the best looks of Spring-Summer 2008. I've tried to stick to wearable (for me at least, but I realize this has a highly variable meaning). There has been a certain "anything goes" attitude in fashion lately, which sounds very well in theory, but it leads to quite a lot of bad fashion. Among the designers, there is a mania for excessive, showy tailoring that seems to beg affirmation as a couturier. It seems inevitable in retrospect, fashion is an industry at which theatrics come at the drop of a hat. These "creations" are sometimes absurd, sometimes sublime, and almost always difficult to wear. So among the wearers, "anything goes" translates into something called "layering"—black leggings, skinny jeans, couture tees, and the inevitable Louboutin. It is very hipster, very cas', very watered-down Kate Moss. Maybe anything goes, but there is just no fun to it. It may seem to you that I ought to champion democratic fashion, but hell, fashion isn't democratic. Style comes from an inner enjoyment, chic is inimitable, and anyone can and ought to be well-dressed, but fashion is always evolving away from the crowd.

Where will it evolve next? Judging by what's percolating in the spring collections, two major trends are raring to emerge. The first is a sort of ethereal (since it's spring) simplicity best exemplified by Raf Simmons at Jil Sander. The second is a collusion of prints to miss-and-match such as at Prada. There is very little sex, but quite a lot of fun, thank god.

Enough talk, onto the clothes.

Are hats silly? I love hats, they are so elegant, and it is hard to deny the graphic appeal of this one by Ralph Lauren, but I wonder if other people find it affected. All the hat-worship of the ages seems to have transferred to shoes and handbags. I think it's a pity.

I have a great weakness for pretty frocks, they easily outnumber t-shirts in my wardrobe. There are very many of these, but at this level of expense and hype, I expect something special and not merely pretty. The colors in this one by 6267 are magical, but those sleeves present some difficulties. But then when I imagined them without, it was to the great diminishment of the dress: just pretty, not special. It may not suit you as it does me, but it is definitely memorable.

An impeccably cut Jil Sander suit in a color so vibrant it feels quite alive. It is extremely simple, and the fit is absolutely perfect, so perfect that I quite forget the ominously skinny pants and rather think to myself, "Ah, would be chic with ballet flats."

A symphony of neutrals, marvelously well-judged proportions, and great jewelry from Lanvin. Alber Elbaz has a talent for making the remarkable look unremarkable, and therefore the height of chic; the result is something very, very French—simple elements put together in such a way that it is difficult to see how it is done, much less emulate.

Beachwear by Stella McCartney: transports you straight to summer, does it not? A little retro, and yet it doesn't strike one as costume-y. The white sunglasses are quite perfect, and all it needs is a funky tote.

This one from Prada might do (it is leather, not cloth). I quite admire the moody fairies at Prada, but worry that it might telegraph "fashion victim" (both label and season would be identifiable to anyone who follows the runways), and one wants such things to transcend time. But the effect is not quite so intense when restricted to a handbag, but still... there is the danger. I discovered a white one at Bag Snob I like even better.

This Christian Dior wrap dress has a quiet glamour that quite appeals to me, it is soft and clingy with old-fashioned shoulders, one that embraces the female body and worships it, never to upstage the woman who wears it.

Pastels, flowers, suits, and Balenciaga, oh my! An unusual direction for Nicholas Ghèsquiere to take, since his clothes are rarely possess even a hint of softness. The clothes are practically sculpture, and the fabric itself has been meticulously topstitched (it is difficult to get a sense of the detail in this long shot). It is a weird mixture of evening gown and suit, but there is nothing quite like it.

I felt one showstopper evening piece was due, and my favorite is this ethereal, molten-silver Nina Ricci. Look at how the fabric pools at her feet like mercury. Divine.

Labels: , , , , , , , , , ,


0 comment(s)  
 
Post a comment (NO SPAM) Permalink . del.icio.us . Stumble



Beauty Notes: When You Are Old...
Posted by Dain, Wednesday, August 22, 2007 4:23 AM (Eastern)

Above: All About Eve (1950), I get a kick out of how she stomps on her cigarette (a threatening gesture), and soon delivers the icy retort: "Not until the last drugstore has sold its last pill."

Among the common utterances of the English language, perhaps there are no better examples of damning with faint praise than "aging gracefully" and "young at heart"—euphemisms at best. Sometimes, people write about how age can be beautiful, yet no one ever bothers to make such an assertion about youth, because such a thing is self-evident. Youth is an object of desire, and there is no implicit comparison. Age is beautiful—the quiet smell of a fine library, a red wine, Venice, the magnificent Bette Davis above—but women find it troubling. I detest beauty articles about aging; they are patronizing. Age is a touchy issue, and that's a fact. It is a major concern for most women, and the validity of the issue is a matter for the individual woman to decide, not some self-descried pundit. There may be much in the silver lining, but no one relishes the actual getting older.

That said, there is no shame in looking your best.

An expensive coiffure is an absurd affectation on the young, but it's quite elegant on an older woman. A great cut, plus a rich haircolor to cover greys, goes a long way. I have no preference in style or length, but a head of hair well taken care of is a distinction that flatters enormously.

Skincare is crucial, but it's easy to be duped. Miracle creams do not exist. I emphasize this not because I want to be pushy (indeed, skincare is my greatest weakness), but because the companies, they are preying on you. Videlict: Dior L'Or de Vie ($320 for La Crème, $350 for L'Extrait—skincare above $100 a jar requires French, you see). As much as I'd like to try a glass of Château d'Yquem someday, in my skincare, it's a r-i-p-o-f-f. The confidence that comes from being able to live comfortably in your skin is far more attractive than the rarest cream slathered on aging skin to hide your shame of it. Your makeup, it is not beautiful, you are.


If you haven't already, find yourself a good sunscreen, the only true anti-ager, at least until scientists figure out time reversal. For night, I recommend a vitamin C treatment, it adds clarity and radiance and repairs some of ongoing damage. And, a rich face cream. It doesn't matter if it's La Mer or Cetaphil, if it's a good moisturizer, it'll plump up your skin and reduce the appearance of fine lines*, because the skin swells with moisture.


There are a few makeup tricks that are useful. I am not fond of foundation, but I recommend it here, because as we age, our skin becomes increasingly uneven. Prep your skin with moisturizer; I like the brightening effect of Nuxe Crème Fraîche Suractivée Concentrée Energizing Cream. Then, find yourself a good cream foundation (Giorgio Armani, Clé de Peau, Chantecaille, all very expensive but excellent), add a drop of pearly pink highlighter (By Terry Éclat de Perle in Rosy Perle) if you like for added radiance, and use a foundation brush for a delicate, sure touch. An undereye concealer, in a shade lighter than your skintone, is very important; when you are older, fatigue shows more visibly. Bobbi Brown insists that a vibrant pop of blush is an instant face lift, and I heartily agree. I favor NARS Desire and MAC Fleur Power.


For eyes, a soft grey is the most flattering, but if you get sick of neutrals, consider a lustrous rose like NARS Nepal. An ivory, to highlight, and a subdued navy like Laura Mercier Deep Night, to line (it brightens), are the perfect complements. Make sure to avoid anything too shimmery, as it ages. And defined brows are always helpful. Now, the final touch: a beautiful, rich lipstick—Lipstick Queen in Rouge Sinner, a shade like red rosepetals, is universally flattering.

If there is one purely cosmetic consolation to getting older, it's that many of the most beautiful perfumes in the world, such as Chanel No. 22 or Guerlain L'Heure Bleue, cannot be worn by the meager personality of youth (a young woman with an old soul might be able to pull it off, but she'd be a rare one). For your viewing pleasure, here's a brief overview of some classic perfumes from history; they even feature the beautiful old bottles.

*Skincare copy says this all the time, "reduces the appearance of...", which is not at all the same meaning as, "gets rid of...", though it sounds like it.

Images (mostly) courtesy instyle.com. They really have some superlative still lifes! : )

Labels: , , , , , , , , , , , ,


12 comment(s)  
 
August 22, 2007 12:57 PM, Blogger Colleen Shirazi said...

Ohhhhh...no, that's about thirty years out of date...back then women were, sometimes literally, still the property of their husbands.

That's when women were supposed to fret about aging. Where's the social status in owning an old car, as opposed to a brand new shiny one?

It was assumed that you--the woman--would accomplish nothing intellectually or professionally in your life. Your brain would not develop, the way a man's would, as you got older. Hence, where a man would become more intelligent, more accomplished, more respected, higher status--you would simply age.

That's where all the patronizing comes from. They're leaving out...a lot. What women actually do in the twenty years between youth and middle age, besides sit in a chair, staring at the wall, while their skin loses tone.

I don't buy into any of that crap myself. In fact I think you should wear less makeup as you get older. It's akin to trying to cover up acne with makeup, it looks fake.

But sunscreen is your key beauty product...and one of those de-hagging eye creams. And a daily multi-vitamin. Getting enough vitamin A prevents squinting. Biotin keeps your hair from getting too thin. Exercise keeps off the telltale "middle aged spread." It's all prevention.

I'm curious about that Lipstick Queen now. Even though it's hard for me to believe a high-end lipstick company would stoop to "I just found a great website" spams.

 
August 22, 2007 1:11 PM, Blogger Dain said...

Personally, I'm with you. I expect only to get better with age; guys my age don't appreciate me very well. [looks rueful] It helps because I don't expect to "lose my looks". Or my figure, for that matter. But for the majority of women, no matter how succesful they are, I think it is still a major issue. I know girls my age who are terrified of getting old, and if anything, they're the ones who are particularly successful. Women (as a general entity, not specific individuals) care about aging, that won't really change. The profits of the skincare industry are built on that. It doesn't really matter if you are allowed to earn money and be your own person, it's still something they care about.

 
August 22, 2007 1:24 PM, Blogger Dain said...

O, and Lipstick Queen, I am looking at some samples I received now. I've no use for the Saint formula, not because they're bad but because I have no use for sheers overall because I'm sick of them. The Sinner formula is reeeaaaalllly pigmented! You can feel the pigment, there's so much of it. The color is really true: they sent me Wine Sinner, which is really a soft cool red, but no fuschia inclinations whatsoever, and if a blue-red won't turn, the others are certainly not likely to. It's totally matte, and yet comfortable to wear. It's lovely, I wonder if it'd be a good replacement for my GA #46, seeing as it's LE?

 
August 22, 2007 2:14 PM, Blogger Colleen Shirazi said...

Yeah, it's funny, it was occurring to me yesterday...that the concept of paying women less...I used to think it was simple, that it was "someone has to clean the floor." I mean, for the past fifty years, women have been going to the same schools as men, getting the same degrees as men...is there any other explanation, as to why they are paid less?

Then the thought occurred...as long as they're paid less, they will be treated unfairly, and as long as they're treated unfairly, they will be better consumers. They will buy more.

I highly disagree that a disproportionate (compared to men) concern with aging is a female thing per se. It is an underpaid thing. On some level, women are trying to compensate for something.

What you're thinking of as successful...tends to be young women. Am I right? They don't have kids yet. Before you have kids, your income may well be on a par with a man's. The gap comes when you have the kids, because you don't get compensated for raising them. Either you pay someone else to do it (which is not cheap, it's not subsidized in the U.S.) or else you lose whatever money you would have made, doing it yourself.

It's an illusion of being successful; it's good as long as you don't have kids.

As Spike Milligan once said, "All I ask is the chance to prove that money can't make me happy." If we were paid the same, would we really have this inexplicable concern with aging?

 
August 22, 2007 2:35 PM, Blogger Dain said...

Hm, well you see, I don't think that the age concern is really about money. I think it's about sex. Because women are most fertile at a certain age, and then at a certain point, they aren't anymore. It's not like that with men, though they too decline. A man can become more attractive with age, because he might have more to offer in terms of security to his mate, an option that wasn't available to women because of inequality. Women have an expiration date. If women are paid more, it equalizes the situation because a woman can be seen as desirable beyond her reproductive success, and it diminishes the power that men have, but... I don't think it's the cause, more a solution. After all, the capitalist system has only been around for a few hundred years, while sex has been around... for millions.

In any case, I dare say my original article wasn't intended to compare men and women in the first place, only the young and old. : )

 
August 22, 2007 2:44 PM, Blogger Dain said...

Hm, I see, I think you misunderstand me. It's really much simpler than that. When I see women who are afraid to be old, they are afraid to be ugly. Sometimes it has to do with men, sometimes it doesn't, just like sometimes women dress for men, sometimes they don't. I think you're right about what you are talking about, but it's not what my article is talking about, because it is not concerned with gender inequality at all, just trying to address the fear of aging, period, that one sees so often in women.

 
August 22, 2007 3:07 PM, Blogger Colleen Shirazi said...

Eh...you could see it entirely the other way around. Women keep their sexual potency their entire lives, where men's potency declines with age. How many kids do you really need?

To the best of my knowledge, there were matriarchal societies before there were patriarchal societies. I find it hard to believe, in a matriarchal society, that women would have the same concerns about aging. It doesn't make logical sense.

You've got a valid point in that you should change your products as you age. I totally agree with that. You can get away imo, with using cheaper products when you're young. Somehow it all just works...or you can use no products when you're young, that works too. In fact too much stuff overwhelms the natural beauty of youth.

I've found the biggest change for me...perfume. Some scents now smell too young on me, where those other scents, that I know I wouldn't have been attracted to before, now smell right.

Colored eyeshadow now looks better on me. When I was younger, I wouldn't have bothered. Now I can use a little extra color.

Blush is good (again something I wouldn't have bothered with before). I'm still pondering concealer. I hate the idea of stretching the skin under my eyes. It would have to be something that involves minimal rubbing. That's the key.

 
August 22, 2007 3:36 PM, Blogger Dain said...

Just thought I'd like to add this pic from the Sartorialist:
http://bp2.blogger.com/_qjpwnPW4c1o/RsVMhv4lKjI/AAAAAAAAB3s/e9OhQ9mqV0g/s1600/Wht%26Green.jpg

 
August 22, 2007 3:55 PM, Blogger Colleen Shirazi said...

Yay! I like the Sartorialist, one of the first sites I ever saw pictures of ordinary people and street fashion.

Yeah...men these days are also concerned about aging, more than before. It is also because people are living a lot longer, they stay strong and healthy longer too. What I resent is an implication that we're supposed to be more concerned than men appear to be--

It's much like the classic management example of pay equity. They say that people care less about what other people in their field are being paid, and more about what the guy next to them is being paid. If you're working shoulder-to-shoulder with someone else, and you find out that guy is being paid more than you, you're not going to like it.

I suppose it'll all even out in the end, one way or another.

 
August 22, 2007 7:57 PM, Blogger cmm said...

Interesting!
That pic from Sart. has got to be my favorite one EVER! I can only,only hope my hair greys like that.

Anyhoos, I'm feeling that the red lipstick I so love is begining to look ridiculous on me, at my age. I know, I know, but I looked at some of my pictures and just thought "ugh. I look creepy."

Dain, dear, color-queen, any good recs for me for something Nude?
I'm thinking I'll just start to focus on playing up my eyes and lashes rather than the dark red lips.
Thanks!

 
August 22, 2007 10:16 PM, Blogger Colleen Shirazi said...

Wha'????? I thought you looked great in that red lippy.

My hair is already grey but not like that. It's like a bunch of silver grey strands mixed in with my (long-lost) real hair color.

 
August 22, 2007 11:31 PM, Blogger Dain said...

Carol, I agree with Colleen! That red lippie is great on you! I think red is a "mature" look anyway, one that can look awkward on the very young, though not always. Maybe it's how you are wearing it? A clear, soft pink blush may soften the look, and I like pewter shadow with red lipstick... the red alone can look stark, but pewter is just rich enough, but still very neutral.

I also like deep reds with a lemony-gold. I have a good picture of this look, I'll post it.

But as for non-reds... hmm... I don't wear nudes, I don't favor them, I don't know why, just feel like I need more color. If I were pressed to use one, I like a sheer shimmery lilac because it cancels out out lip tones pretty well. A milky pink works too.

The shade I've been obsessed with lately is a pure rose (not pink brown, the kind of color that makes you think of English-rose beauties from Jane Austen novels). It's not as bland as nude, it can be quite rich, but it's much softer than red or berry... Hey, btw, have you tried NARS Gothika? I know we can wear the same lipsticks really well, and that's my favorite.

 
Post a comment (NO SPAM) Permalink . del.icio.us . Stumble



Style Icon: Lauryn Hill
Posted by Dain, Friday, August 10, 2007 12:55 AM (Eastern)


I so admire Lauryn Hill. And why not? She is beautiful, intelligent, talented, and socially conscious (she is an incredible lyricist). The moment she first looks up, her eyes are so full, but her expression so reserved—it gives you a weird feeling, like she can look into your soul. She seems to favor red lipstick and gold hoops; it's not glamour puss, it's just cool. I also love how she wears her hair natural, without straighteners or lighteners, just dreads. And compared to the standards of most hip hop videos, there's a refreshing lack of bling or booty. She's fully clothed! In normal clothes even! Living proof that dignity is much sexier.

Above: Benefit Bad Gal and Diorshow Mascara for an easy, instant smoky eye, with Chantecaille Gold Shimmer Cream Brilliance Aqua Blush to add a delicious glow to dark skin (cheekbones, eyes, etc.), and a rich, red stain like Stila Poppy Covertible Color for cheeks and lips.

Labels: , , , , ,


0 comment(s)  
 
Post a comment (NO SPAM) Permalink . del.icio.us . Stumble



Favorite "high end" beauty products
Posted by Colleen Shirazi, Friday, February 16, 2007 8:28 PM (Eastern)

Conversely, some products are worth their higher price tag. The colors, staying power, texture, versatility, sometimes even the shelf life--I've had cheaper lipsticks and eyeshadows turn on me relatively quickly--all of these factors can make a more expensive item into a cheaper item in the long run.

Face

  • Nars the Multiple in Malibu. The ideal blush in convenient stick form. Of course there are other shades, it's just that I find this neutral to slightly warm, bronze-kissed (yet not brown/muddy/dirty) medium rose shade ideal.

    I've observed that the majority of drugstore blushes fade more quickly than their department store counterparts. I'm not willing to touch up blush; time can be money too (plus you get a ginormous stick of color here; I've barely dented mine, considering I use it almost every day).


  • MAC Blot pressed powder. The grail powder for oily skin...I stopped using loose powder altogether after I tried this beauty board gem (although they do make a Blot loose powder, I haven't bothered trying it). Blots oil like a dream, doesn't darken, nor look caked, nor look orange. Not much coverage, but I prefer that since I use a foundation product.


Hair

  • Alba Botanica Honeydew Nourishing Hair Wash. Not majorly expensive, not cheap either (around $9 for 12 ounces). One of the nicest shampoos I've tried in a long time, won't wreck even frequently-washed hair, lathers decently for being a SLS-free product, smells wonderful. There's a Plumeria version of this also that I'll probably try next.


Body

  • Perfumes in general...I have yet to find a lower priced perfume that I like. Of course even higher priced perfumes can fade quickly; I prefer stronger scents. The sole exception here might be Etro Heliotrope, which doesn't last as well as, say, Givenchy perfumes, but it makes up for it in being versatile. I've used Heliotrope as a layer with other perfumes, to stretch them out and add complexity and depth.


Makeup
  • Dior eyeshadows. At $52, these quints ain't cheap. Still, if you wanted a single compact of shadows that would run the gamut from casual to formal, contain five shades at $10.40 each (ounce for ounce, cheaper than MAC), provide divine subtlety and coordination of color (thus removing the "shadow klutz" and "color blind" factors), this is your baby.


image courtesy sephora.com
  • Nars eyeshadows. Here you have colors that may appear improbable. Particularly the duos, which add an unexpected combination to the existing improbability of the individual shades. Still, they work. I've had my duos for almost three years now. The quality hasn't changed; they still look terrific.

  • Chanel Hydrabase lipsticks. I'm starting to get into these; they're amazingly complex and intensely moisturizing (while the surface of the lipstick feels almost dry, my lips are very soft after the color wears off). Yes, they have a candied rose scent that may be a love-hate thing (try a sample before buying). But I like it, and I don't always like scented lipsticks.

    Another factor that's become increasingly important to me is--is there a word for it? I'm sick to the gills of limited edition and discontinued makeup. Perhaps the word is "longevity." I've kept an eye on Chanel for some months; they don't discontinue frequently. That's worth an extra $14 for me not having to go through the headache of finding a look-alike (I do use up lipsticks, being a reformed "lipstick ho").

Labels: , , , , , ,


0 comment(s)  
 
Post a comment (NO SPAM) Permalink . del.icio.us . Stumble



Beauty breakthroughs
Posted by Colleen Shirazi, Friday, November 17, 2006 1:08 AM (Eastern)

Once in a while, there comes along a beauty product that actually does change your life. Most of them don't, of course, but some of them do.

This has been on my mind for a while...because once such a product becomes part of your life, you tend to forget what your life was like before.

Here is my personal list of breakthrough products, starting with:

  1. Johnson & Johnson Head to Toe Baby Wash. This has been my facial cleanser for years, literally. It seems to me it was already a "board lemming" (something everyone on the beauty board has to own!) when I joined The Lipstick Page forum in 1998, and I tried it at that time.

    Why is this revolutionary? It is the perfect cleanser for my oily/combo, acne prone skin. It cleans without stripping (though I doubt it would work for dry skin; too astringent), removes makeup (at least the level of makeup I wear...I don't wear mascara, so I don't know if it works for that), does not irritate eyes--being baby wash--making it ideal for removing eye shadow and liner...has a light pleasant scent, is overall pleasant to use, no breakouts...and best of all, it is cheap. It comes in ginormous bottles at Costco...yes, the price has risen, but it's still a mere $10 for two huge bottles.

    And--if there needed to be an "and"--it's terrific for washing makeup brushes and puffs, hair brushes, I use it to wash out my haircolor bottles; any time you need a mild, yet effective, cleanser, there it is.


  2. A daily multi-vitamin. This has made a tremendous difference in my (acne prone) skin and overall well-being. Do some research...and, especially if you are of child-bearing age, consult your doctor before starting on a vitamin regimen.


  3. For acne: consider switching your birth control pill. Some are better than others. Some are horrible in fact. I've gotten the best results from Ortho Tricyclen and Yasmin.


  4. For acne: analyze your diet and check for allergies. My own acne is triggered by particular foods. If I eat a lot of beef that was raised with growth hormone, I'm sure to get blemishes and extra-oily skin. I've heard of people getting acne from allergies to foods such as tomatoes, citrus, or milk. I've heard of someone who got acne because she was allergic to parabens. Give it some thought, see what you're eating and what's in your environment.


  5. Jojoba butter/jojoba oil. The butter form is superior to the oil if you're going to use it as a night cream or moisturizer. The oil is better if you're going to mix it into something else, such as a tinted moisturizer or shampoo.

    This is my ideal moisturizer, and--like the J & J Head to Toe above--it is way cheap (I'm still working my way through my original jar), and the perfect thing for oily/combo, acne prone skin. I use it only at night (I don't use a moisturizer during the day)...it gets rid of flakes, makes my face feel nice and soft--not greasy...it sinks in--and, it helps keep pores clear.


  6. MAC Blot pressed powder. Worth the $18 price tag (did I just say that?), if you have oil or shine to deal with.

    I didn't believe it either, until I tried it.


  7. For thin hair: a biotin supplement. Disclaimer: I am an ordinary person, not a medical professional. I've had thin hair the greater part of my life, I wrote it off as hereditary...but this stuff really does work. Here are some links for your perusal:
    Vitamins (BBC site)
    Treating Hair Loss Naturally (Webmd.com)


  8. L'Oreal Feria deep conditioner. How did I ever live without this? I started out coloring my hair with Preference and used the Preference deep conditioner before, but I like the Feria one better...and you don't need to use the Feria kits to use the conditioner. Just buy it at Sallys Beauty Supply.

    This is "the cure for colored hair"...just use it after coloring, for the next few days. Your hair will feel as if it had never been colored, and ladies, I bleach. No crispy, crunchy hair here.


  9. Nars the Multiple in Malibu. Not necessarily ideal as a multi-purpose product...as a lip color it's gorgeous, but imo too dry. As an eyeshadow it'll do, but I have better shadows. But oh, as a blush, it is perfect.

    I say this because I have been, by and large, far too lazy to put on blush. This cool stick form means I can grab it after I put on my tinted sunscreen, dab it once or twice on each cheek, blend with my fingers, voila! Done! Painless!

    Moreover, this somewhat bronzy, neutral rose color (if anything, it is ever so slightly warm) is perfect year round, because of the bronze. As my skin gets paler, this stuff looks more bronze...it morphs into something of a bronzer. In summer the bronze fades into my tan and I'm left with a lovely rose blush.


  10. Nars Babylon duo eyeshadow. I still love this duo; it's foolproof. Okay, you have to be able to wear orange eyeshadow. If your coloring is cool, I don't think it would work. But for neutral-to-warm coloring, and green eyes...it would work for any eye color, but it's stupendous with green or blue...you've gotta have it.

    I am of the opinion that there is a Nars eyeshadow duo for everyone. Babylon is mine but there are many more to choose from.


  11. Christian Dior Beige Massaï eyeshadow quint. This is the "subtle" version of Babylon; again it is ideal for green or blue eyes and neutral to warmer coloring. Instead of the shimmery tangerine of Babylon, you get a soft cantaloupe shade, along with a surprisingly useful creamy light shade (makes a divine wash), a neat shimmery terracotta shade (looks great with the creamy shade) and a couple of browns (look great with the cantaloupe shade).

    Likewise, I feel there is a Dior eyeshadow quint for everyone. These are $ so pick carefully, but you will get a lot of mileage out of it.


  12. MAC Permaplum Powerpoint eyepencil. By far my favorite eyeliner, both the color...it's a deep, slightly blue-toned purple, with a smidge of (largely invisible) pink shimmer...and the formula, which neither smears nor fades (in fact it's a bit difficult to remove, be forewarned), holds a point perfectly, sharpens without crumbling (at least not yet, and I've owned mine for about two years), it hasn't turned hard yet, still goes on silky smooth... The color is quite versatile.


  13. MAC Lustre formula lipsticks. These are great, especially if you've been avoiding lipstick because most lipsticks look unnatural on you. The Lustres are sheer (the sheerness varies from shade to shade) and come in a range of wearable shades. Plus, MAC lipsticks taste faintly and pleasantly of vanilla, and you can do a Back to MAC (see Back to MAC and Back to MAC expanded for MAC freestanding stores). Plus, these wear quite well for being sheer and shiny.


  14. Chanel Hydrabase lipstick in Moiré. I dream about this lipstick. I do. I have a sample size of it; it's addictive.

    Note: some people hate the scent of this lipstick. I happen to love it, but, well, it's likely to be either love or hate, so you might want to try it before buying it.

    This has a rather strong, candied rose fragrance, which only makes it more addictive to me. The coverage is interestingly "medium" rather than "full" or "sheer." It really is medium. You get quite a bit of color, yet it's more forgiving than a full coverage lipstick.

    Moiré is many colors in one. It goes with everything and always looks right, from business/office/meeting to casual to festive. It's almost YLBB (Your Lips But Better) but it's more color than that...it's got brick red, plum, rose, a neat little twist of fuchsia shimmer (as the shade name implies)...it's on the warm side. If lipsticks easily turn orange on you, it may not do.

    It's nice and moisturizing, lasts well on...no smearing or bleeding...feels light as a feather.


Oh I'm sure I'll think of something else right after I publish this.

Labels: , , , , , , , ,