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Notes from the Editors of The Lipstick Page Forums: A Dedication to the Art of Beauty and Fashion.
Meet the Staff: The Sketchbook · Blog Home · Profile · MySpace · Contact Us · FAQ/TOS On This Page · Beauty Notes: Christian Dior Eau Sauvage Review · Beauty Notes: Diorissimo Review (vintage vs. reorchestration) · Beauty Notes: Christian Dior Diorling Review · The Mnemonic Sense: Evolution · Beauty Notes: Christian Dior Diorissimo Review · Fantasy Web Find of the Day: Dior Fine Jewelry Bagatelle Ring · Fashion Notes: Countdown to Spring · Beauty Notes: When You Are Old... · Style Icon: Lauryn Hill · Favorite "high end" beauty products · Beauty breakthroughs · Beauty Notes: Obsessions (5.23.06) · Beauty Notes: Obsessions (12.24.05) · Beauty Notes: Hauling (11.27.05) · Beauty Notes: Dior 5-Color Eyeshadow · Beauty Notes: Obsessions (5.13.05) Comments · July 1, 2008 12:00 PM by Carol · July 1, 2008 2:48 PM by Dain · July 1, 2008 3:23 PM by Colleen Shirazi · March 17, 2008 11:14 PM by Colleen Shirazi · March 18, 2008 11:30 AM by Dain · January 25, 2008 9:03 PM by Colleen Shirazi · January 25, 2008 10:03 PM by Dain · August 22, 2007 12:57 PM by Colleen Shirazi · August 22, 2007 1:11 PM by Dain · August 22, 2007 1:24 PM by Dain · August 22, 2007 2:14 PM by Colleen Shirazi · August 22, 2007 2:35 PM by Dain · August 22, 2007 2:44 PM by Dain · August 22, 2007 3:07 PM by Colleen Shirazi · August 22, 2007 3:36 PM by Dain · August 22, 2007 3:55 PM by Colleen Shirazi · August 22, 2007 7:57 PM by cmm · August 22, 2007 10:16 PM by Colleen Shirazi · August 22, 2007 11:31 PM by Dain Archives · Beauty Blog (2003-2004) · Fashion Blog (archive) · New Releases Blog (archive) · Beauty Articles (archive) · April 2005 · May 2005 · June 2005 · July 2005 · August 2005 · September 2005 · October 2005 · November 2005 · December 2005 · January 2006 · February 2006 · March 2006 · April 2006 · May 2006 · June 2006 · July 2006 · August 2006 · September 2006 · October 2006 · November 2006 · December 2006 · January 2007 · February 2007 · March 2007 · April 2007 · May 2007 · June 2007 · July 2007 · August 2007 · September 2007 · October 2007 · November 2007 · December 2007 · January 2008 · February 2008 · March 2008 · April 2008 · May 2008 · June 2008 · July 2008
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Beauty Notes: Christian Dior Eau Sauvage Review Posted by Dain, Tuesday, July 01, 2008 12:03 AM (Eastern) ![]() Mary Cassatt, The Boating Party (1893-1894). I love how she's captured the quality of light off the water so accurately. I've never really cared for citrus. It's a natural choice for climates that get very hot, but in the dilute light of New England one tends to gravitate towards richer things, with just a little hesperidic shimmer on the top. Consequently, I've passed by cologne, perfumery's homage to citrus, the way chypres are to oakmoss and soliflores are to florals. Traditionally, kölnisch wasser (hence the Gallic reiteration, "eau de cologne") is an antique blend of citrus extracts dating from the 1700s, usually accented by aromatic herbs. To this day, colognes rarely deviate from this formula, lest they destroy the crisp delicacy that makes them so appealing in the heat and humidity. Sometimes aldehydes power its diffusion (Chanel Cristalle, which I'll review with the chypres), sometimes there are jasmine petals on the breeze (Christian Dior Eau Sauvage), sometimes a hint of sweaty coumarin runs as a dark undercurrent (Ô de Lancôme), sometimes it's lemonade with plenty of sugar (Dolce & Gabbana Light Blue), sometimes the herbs are stronger (Annick Goutal Eau d'Hadrien) and sometimes more ethereal (Guerlain Eau de Guerlain), but the moment you throw something like tuberose or amber into the mix, you destroy the refreshing lightness that makes hesperides what they are. The longevity is generally insignificant, but with such a narrowed focus on top notes, it cannot be helped. To choose one out of so many would be an arbitrary decision. It's impossible not to enjoy the chilled, minty fresh Eau de Guerlain, or the dry martini of Cristalle, but I like Eau Sauvage the best of them all. All its elements are exactly balanced: lemon and bitter petitgrain form the centerpiece, a very sparing touch of rosemary (for its piney pitch) and basil (for its eugenol spice), and a thread of hedione running through the heart like stray jasmine petals caught in a filmy veil, and in the drydown lurks plenty of vetiver with a hint of coumarin, for a little grit. Instead of larding the composition with exotic notes, Roudnitska seems to have stripped the traditional cologne down to a purist core, a move that must have been wildly innovative at the time (1966), after decades of orientalism (the 30s) and aldehydism (the 50s). Don't let the masculine categorization fool you, there's a shadowy twist that is assuredly a nod towards the sauvage, but it's just as elegant on a woman, nothing edgy about it. Labels: beauty notes, dior, perfume reviews Beauty Notes: Diorissimo Review (vintage vs. reorchestration) Posted by Dain, Thursday, May 22, 2008 12:02 AM (Eastern) I didn't expect to get so carried away by the prudish lily of the valley, but I enjoyed Serge Lutens Un Lys, an easy, protypical blend of lilies of all kinds, and found the silvery streak of lily of valley tantalising in Chanel No. 19, so via the associative process by which we all attempt perfumes, I turned to the iconic lily of the valley of them all: Diorissimo. I have reviewed Diorissimo before, but it was a drive-by rave, announcing my apostasy from I've-wanted-it-for-years Tubéreuse Criminelle from Serge Lutens as the Big White Floral in my perfume wardrobe, which I've since backslided on. Spring is here, at last! And summer's right around the corner... The lily of the valley is rarely noticed outside of a soliflore; it is the Artemis of flowers, fierce and chaste at once, as impossible to capture as a beam of moonlight. (It must be recreated synthetically; Edmond Roudnitska famously planted lily of the valley in his garden in order to assure the accuracy of his Diorissimo.) Like the flower itself, which tucks itself away under yew bushes, forcing the quester of aromas to drag her knees through the earth to get close to its cold, high-pitched scent, it tends to be equally shy and elusive within a composition, easily shouldered aside by brassy, attention-whore notes (of which perfumery, as in life, is full), and only in the aforementioned No. 19, because it is so still and cold itself, have I ever been able to recognize its shine. Diorissimo is hands down the best lily of the valley soliflore I've tested, including Caron Muguet de Bonheur and the degraded Coty Muguet des Bois (both are too soapy for me), and thanks to the kind Wendy, I was able to test the vintage as well as the reorchestration. I have to admit, I prefer the reorchestration. It is the exact smell of the lily of the valley that grows in pleasing profusion in my backyard (I just went and sniffed, braving allergies, to make sure): that pure, clear, tinkling floral aroma, as fragile as a soap bubble. The vintage is more dimensional but less emphatic about lily of the valley, braced by a fruity accord like overripe apples through its opening and a gently animalic musk that powders it lightly in the drydown. But whether you prefer the vintage or the reorchestration, Diorissimo is flat-out glamorous, a womanly scent. Though I've personally decided against it, I do love how it makes me feel like a little girl in bed, your mother a silhouette in the warm dark, the swish of her gown (it's a night at the opera), and the lingering smell of Diorissimo that hangs in the air, like a benediction, after she's gone and you've slipped into dreamland. * By all rights, the iris is technically a member of the lily family, but I felt it deserved its own focus, while the lilac, in the form of Fréréric Malle En Passant, is technically of the olive family, but I include it here because it smells lily-like (hyacinths, more specifically). Labels: beauty notes, dior, perfume reviews Beauty Notes: Christian Dior Diorling Review Posted by Dain, Monday, March 17, 2008 12:12 PM (Eastern) I love how she yowls, "I'm not living with you, we just occupy the same cage, that's all." Cabochard is not sufficiently unique from Bandit, with all those angles hammered into submission, and I like those angles, it's like watching Madonna videos, an attitude that stuns. Diorling, on the other hand, is a tame leather chypre, an entirely different animal, very ladylike and proper. If she's naughty, it's behind closed doors, all those disturbing tendencies smoothed under fine silk and flowers and tinkling crystal. She is high maintenance, that's all. It's the ultimate flirtation: leather comes first, like a slap from a glove, followed by a conciliatory bouquet of jasmine, rose, and iris, slightly sharp and fresh, and a quick kiss that brings one closer to over-powdered skin, and of course the rhythmic warmth of oakmoss and vetiver. Categorically, it owes much to Bandit, but I also find it not dissimilar to Cuir de Russie, in that Diorling also seems to belong to another era, before female emancipation made discretion an outmoded genre. I daresay this is only the reorchestration, but it is still magnificent, I'm simply a fan of leathery chypres. A pity you can only get in Paris. Labels: beauty notes, dior, perfume reviews
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The Mnemonic Sense: Evolution Posted by Dain, Wednesday, February 27, 2008 10:45 AM (Eastern) I have tested so many now, and at first it is a bit like when you first try a vaporizer—you're so stoned you just fumble around the universe looking for a clue—but in the way of all addictions, be it perfume or pot, the initial chaos subsides into jaded acclimatization. Nowadays, the most exciting substance in my life is strong coffee, and likewise my perfume wardrobe is really taking on some clarity, though its final shape is still unclear. Slated for certain purchase are Caron En Avion and Christian Dior Diorissimo; Serge Lutens Bois et Fruits is a more uncertain candidate. Given my well documented distaste for redundancy, they don't smell much like each other—a seriously complicated powdery/floral/spicy leather chypre, an unabashedly feminine lily-of-the-valley soliflore, and a polished cedar set off by sparkling fruit notes—but they all seem to possess uncontested elegance, radiant wit, and more than a little reservation. Though I gravitate towards with distinct, strong characters (which leaves most fruits, gourmands, citrus, and aquatics outside of my estimation), not for me is an effusive, showy perfume like Jean Patou Joy nor a dark and moody thing like ETRO Messe de Minuit, two perfumes with character I admire greatly but... But? Wouldn't buy. My taste runs towards the intellectually complicated but emotionally serene—if scent is supposed to telegraph our personalities to others, that must be my fantasy of myself (though not necessarily the reality =P).My choices surprise me, actually. Not the Caron, of course, I would have figured as much. En Avion is pure perfume kismet. If I had to live on one perfume alone, a signature scent, this would be it. 25 mL for $180? I don't begrudge it. But lily of the valley? I always thought myself a tuberose girl, less fussy and unbuttoned. Diorissimo, though more delicate and refined, a touch honeyed, a touch green, a touch earthy, is no less womanly. For this reason, white florals are perfect for romantic occasions, but they are great for warmer weather, too, if you're not inclined to wear citrus. And Bois et Fruits surprises me most of all. I hate fruit in perfumes, that thin, artificial smell, but I adore this one, it is so gentle and light: the lightest wood and tangy, wild fruits smoothed over with an overdose of Iso E Super and a hint of musk. It makes me think of honey. Is something missing? Hm, I don't know. I'll keep Parfum Sacré in there, for its warmth, as the others (even Bois et Fruits) are pretty cool and dry. On a slightly related note, since I'm hashing about perfumes, apparently, there has been a PDF copy of Parfums: Le Guide, the 1994 version, online, in the original French. Labels: caron, dior, perfume, serge lutens, the mnemonic sense Beauty Notes: Christian Dior Diorissimo Review Posted by Dain, Tuesday, January 29, 2008 9:06 PM (Eastern) ![]() On a very rare occasion, one encounters a perfume that constitutes a seismic shift. For a very long time now, I've been pining after a bottle of Serge Lutens Tubéreuse Criminelle, and no doubt you have all grown tired of my bitchin' and moanin'. I have tried at least a dozen tuberose soliflores in the hope I might find something comparable but accessible. Diorissimo is not comparable. It is far greater—no contest, I have samples of both in my eager little hands. In a rare moment of truthful advertising, Diorissimo is exactly what the image implies: absolute splendor, the radiance of a rarely seen smile, the height of feminine poise, and in spite of its cool standoffishness, a frisson of sex appeal that appeals all the greater for its reserve. Tantalized by a hint in the even icier Chanel No. 19, I turned to the iconic lily of the valley, a delicate yet heady white floral that pools at your feet like the finest lace. Never would I have imagined my favors to shift so decidedly, so instantly, but perhaps that is a testament to this masterpiece. I swoon. I need to find myself a bottle of this right away, preferably in the largest possible, as I will go through it like water. My perfume wardrobe is shaping up rather differently than I had imagined it would: Diorissimo, Parfum Sacré, Bandit, and maybe Bois et Fruits. But it strikes me a highly respectable list, a very long way from the days when Lolita Lempicka topped my wishlist (a scent abhorrent to me now). Labels: beauty notes, dior, perfume reviews Fantasy Web Find of the Day: Dior Fine Jewelry Bagatelle Ring Posted by Dain, Thursday, January 24, 2008 11:23 AM (Eastern) Just a quick post today, working on Beauty Notebook. ![]() Labels: dior, fantasy web find of the day
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Fashion Notes: Countdown to Spring Posted by Dain, Friday, January 18, 2008 9:15 AM (Eastern) Here are my votes for the best looks of Spring-Summer 2008. I've tried to stick to wearable (for me at least, but I realize this has a highly variable meaning). There has been a certain "anything goes" attitude in fashion lately, which sounds very well in theory, but it leads to quite a lot of bad fashion. Among the designers, there is a mania for excessive, showy tailoring that seems to beg affirmation as a couturier. It seems inevitable in retrospect, fashion is an industry at which theatrics come at the drop of a hat. These "creations" are sometimes absurd, sometimes sublime, and almost always difficult to wear. So among the wearers, "anything goes" translates into something called "layering"—black leggings, skinny jeans, couture tees, and the inevitable Louboutin. It is very hipster, very cas', very watered-down Kate Moss. Maybe anything goes, but there is just no fun to it. It may seem to you that I ought to champion democratic fashion, but hell, fashion isn't democratic. Style comes from an inner enjoyment, chic is inimitable, and anyone can and ought to be well-dressed, but fashion is always evolving away from the crowd. Where will it evolve next? Judging by what's percolating in the spring collections, two major trends are raring to emerge. The first is a sort of ethereal (since it's spring) simplicity best exemplified by Raf Simmons at Jil Sander. The second is a collusion of prints to miss-and-match such as at Prada. There is very little sex, but quite a lot of fun, thank god. Enough talk, onto the clothes. ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() Labels: 6267, balenciaga, dior, fashion guide, jil sander, lanvin, nina ricci, prada, ralph lauren, SS08, stella mccartney Beauty Notes: When You Are Old... Posted by Dain, Wednesday, August 22, 2007 4:23 AM (Eastern) Among the common utterances of the English language, perhaps there are no better examples of damning with faint praise than "aging gracefully" and "young at heart"—euphemisms at best. Sometimes, people write about how age can be beautiful, yet no one ever bothers to make such an assertion about youth, because such a thing is self-evident. Youth is an object of desire, and there is no implicit comparison. Age is beautiful—the quiet smell of a fine library, a red wine, Venice, the magnificent Bette Davis above—but women find it troubling. I detest beauty articles about aging; they are patronizing. Age is a touchy issue, and that's a fact. It is a major concern for most women, and the validity of the issue is a matter for the individual woman to decide, not some self-descried pundit. There may be much in the silver lining, but no one relishes the actual getting older. That said, there is no shame in looking your best. An expensive coiffure is an absurd affectation on the young, but it's quite elegant on an older woman. A great cut, plus a rich haircolor to cover greys, goes a long way. I have no preference in style or length, but a head of hair well taken care of is a distinction that flatters enormously. Skincare is crucial, but it's easy to be duped. Miracle creams do not exist. I emphasize this not because I want to be pushy (indeed, skincare is my greatest weakness), but because the companies, they are preying on you. Videlict: Dior L'Or de Vie ($320 for La Crème, $350 for L'Extrait—skincare above $100 a jar requires French, you see). As much as I'd like to try a glass of Château d'Yquem someday, in my skincare, it's a r-i-p-o-f-f. The confidence that comes from being able to live comfortably in your skin is far more attractive than the rarest cream slathered on aging skin to hide your shame of it. Your makeup, it is not beautiful, you are. ![]() If you haven't already, find yourself a good sunscreen, the only true anti-ager, at least until scientists figure out time reversal. For night, I recommend a vitamin C treatment, it adds clarity and radiance and repairs some of ongoing damage. And, a rich face cream. It doesn't matter if it's La Mer or Cetaphil, if it's a good moisturizer, it'll plump up your skin and reduce the appearance of fine lines*, because the skin swells with moisture. ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() There are a few makeup tricks that are useful. I am not fond of foundation, but I recommend it here, because as we age, our skin becomes increasingly uneven. Prep your skin with moisturizer; I like the brightening effect of Nuxe Crème Fraîche Suractivée Concentrée Energizing Cream. Then, find yourself a good cream foundation (Giorgio Armani, Clé de Peau, Chantecaille, all very expensive but excellent), add a drop of pearly pink highlighter (By Terry Éclat de Perle in Rosy Perle) if you like for added radiance, and use a foundation brush for a delicate, sure touch. An undereye concealer, in a shade lighter than your skintone, is very important; when you are older, fatigue shows more visibly. Bobbi Brown insists that a vibrant pop of blush is an instant face lift, and I heartily agree. I favor NARS Desire and MAC Fleur Power. ![]() ![]() For eyes, a soft grey is the most flattering, but if you get sick of neutrals, consider a lustrous rose like NARS Nepal. An ivory, to highlight, and a subdued navy like Laura Mercier Deep Night, to line (it brightens), are the perfect complements. Make sure to avoid anything too shimmery, as it ages. And defined brows are always helpful. Now, the final touch: a beautiful, rich lipstick—Lipstick Queen in Rouge Sinner, a shade like red rosepetals, is universally flattering. If there is one purely cosmetic consolation to getting older, it's that many of the most beautiful perfumes in the world, such as Chanel No. 22 or Guerlain L'Heure Bleue, cannot be worn by the meager personality of youth (a young woman with an old soul might be able to pull it off, but she'd be a rare one). For your viewing pleasure, here's a brief overview of some classic perfumes from history; they even feature the beautiful old bottles. *Skincare copy says this all the time, "reduces the appearance of...", which is not at all the same meaning as, "gets rid of...", though it sounds like it. Images (mostly) courtesy instyle.com. They really have some superlative still lifes! : ) Labels: beauty notes, by terry, chanel, chantecaille, dior, film, guerlain, la roche posay, laura mercier, lipstick queen, mac cosmetics, nars, nuxe
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Style Icon: Lauryn Hill Posted by Dain, Friday, August 10, 2007 12:55 AM (Eastern) ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() Labels: benefit, chantecaille, dior, music, stila, style icon Favorite "high end" beauty products Posted by Colleen Shirazi, Friday, February 16, 2007 8:28 PM (Eastern) Conversely, some products are worth their higher price tag. The colors, staying power, texture, versatility, sometimes even the shelf life--I've had cheaper lipsticks and eyeshadows turn on me relatively quickly--all of these factors can make a more expensive item into a cheaper item in the long run. Face
Hair
Body
Makeup
![]() image courtesy sephora.com ![]()
Labels: chanel, dior, hair, mac cosmetics, nars, natural beauty, perfume Beauty breakthroughs Posted by Colleen Shirazi, Friday, November 17, 2006 1:08 AM (Eastern) Once in a while, there comes along a beauty product that actually does change your life. Most of them don't, of course, but some of them do. This has been on my mind for a while...because once such a product becomes part of your life, you tend to forget what your life was like before. Here is my personal list of breakthrough products, starting with:
Oh I'm sure I'll think of something else right after I publish this. Labels: acne, chanel, cream of the crop, dior, hair, l'oreal, mac cosmetics, nars, skin |
July 1, 2008 12:00 PM,
Lemonade with sugar, thats a really good description of Light Blue.
Around here its common for Amish ladies to bake these big soft sugar cookies,sometimes they flavor them lemon or orange and sell them either at a farm stand in their yard or at a local grocery store, anyhoos, that's exactly what Light Blue smells like to me, a big, soft,frosted, Lemon sugar cookie. I knew it smelled like something, I just couldn't label it until I read your description. No point,just wanted to share.
I almost hate myself for loving the scent so much. Its good for me to fall in love with something as such, keeps me from being a completely insufferable snob! LOL!
I've read lots of reviews that says everybody else and their mother wears it, luckily NOBODY around here is into perfume. I've never smelled it on anyone else. Ever. There are a few advantages to living in the boonies! ;)
July 1, 2008 2:48 PM,
Ironic, but... I just got myself a big bag of lemons and my sister and I made some lemonade.
Actually, I don't think there's anything low-class about Light Blue. It's well executed by top noses for a top company—just because it isn't niche doesn't mean it isn't great. I've definitely noticed, even though I began with niche, they're not the ones I end up buying. I have officially only bought one Serge Lutens, ever. I've thought about almost all of them, at some point or another, but it didn't inspire the gotta-buy instinct in me the way that so many Guerlains have done.
Light Blue is too sweet for me, insofar that anything sweet makes me feel slightly sick now (notable exceptions being, um, FM Le Parfum de Therese, which smells like fruit salad), but Chandler Burr (perfume critic for NYT) says this of Light Blue: "Dolce & Gabbana's Light Blue is an absolutely terrific perfume, rich without a trace of heaviness, sweet without a hint of stickiness. It smells like the freshest lemon-cake batter. Ever."
July 1, 2008 3:23 PM,
If it works, it works. :) If it smells divine, lasts acceptably, and falls within what you want to pay, by all means, buy it.
Niche is like anything else that's new...it begins as a fad, and lots of people jump into doing it, hoping to make money.
After a while, the novelty wears off, and only the people who are good at it remain.
I'm still pondering my next 'fume purchase...I won't buy anything new until I've used up Etro Heliotrope, anyway...but I'm fairly sure it'll be a Patou, either Sublime or Joy, both mainstream.