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Colleen Shirazi
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Dain

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Posted by Dain, Tuesday, November 27, 2007 1:12 PM (Eastern)

My mother has this trick of buying small bottles of Kiehl's Ultra Facial Moisturizer and giving them out to people. Though it lacks the fancy trappings of more vaunted face goos in the $200 range (you can give out Clé de Peau and Sisley if you want), my mother's choice is such an easy crowd pleaser that nobody cares. Skincare is so useful and important, and so few people approach it with any realistic understanding of how it works, that to start someone along the right path makes an excellent gift. All it takes is a working knowledge of the individual's skin type. A few questions about routines, and you have a pretty good idea of what needs improvement.

For the acne prone, I recommend starting them out with the Kiehl's Blue Herbal line, which is cosmetically elegant, with a light "refreshing" feeling that places people right in their comfort zone, and it depends on the reliable salicylic acid for its firepower. It is not a miracle cure, but it is a more pleasant alternative to Clean & Clear. You may want to throw in Fresh Umbrian Clay Treatment if you're feeling particularly zealous: Layered over the Blue Herbal Spot Treatment, there aren't many zits that stand a chance.

For tough, oily skin, I recommend a gift basket of the following combinations, which I have chosen because they do not strip the skin and result in hyperactive oil glands. If your friend likes botanical skincare: LUSH Angels on Bare Skin (exfoliant/cleanser) and Decléor Aromaessence Ylang Ylang (oil control with balance, but a very little goes a long way). High-tech: Shu Uemura High Performance Balancing Cleansing Oil Fresh (makeup removal/cleanser) and La Roche-Posay Toleriane Fluide.

For normal and combination and dry, I recommend the three products that comprise the heart of my own personal regime. This includes Primavera Refining Exfoliating Cleanser (exfoliant/cleanser), Jurlique Herbal Recovery Gel (a sort of wonderful antioxidant cocktail that does for the skin what vitamin water does for hangovers, brightens and rehydrates, all without any caloric fattiness so that it won't aggravate summer-oily skin), and my favorite moisturizer...

Embryolisse Lait-Crème Concentré ($20). These three products have real flexibility: regular and gentle exfoliation keeps my skin clear and flake-free, the Jurlique provides very lightweight hydration for the summer, and the Embryolisse is excellent for winter (or, as eye cream). If one is really dry, you can throw in Burt's Bees Repair Serum instead of the Jurlique, but I have gone through winter very happily without thus far.

Labels: decleor, embryolisse, fresh, gift guide, jurlique, kiehl's, la roche posay, LUSH, primavera, shu uemura

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Posted by Dain, Wednesday, October 03, 2007 6:36 PM (Eastern)

Images from Jurlique's farm.

I seem possessed by a cantakerous streak these days, though I'm not sure why. I seem inclined to hate everything. Maybe I'm PMS-ing? Doesn't feel like it. Maybe I've been blogging overmuch? Noooo... Or, perhaps it's just hard to switch from very deep to very frivolous writing at will? Perhaps. Whatever the case may be, I will try to be better behaved.

For a little bit of spotless virtue in your life, why not consider going green? It's a small thing everyone can do, and it is better for your hair and skin.

Over the years, I have noticed that I have gravitated towards natural skincare, though not, it seems, on purpose. In my search for the perfect routine, it was often the case that I'd choose natural products because they seemed superior. For the most part, they don't claim to be instant miracle cures, which I find insulting. You drop $300 on the latest anti-aging it cream or whatever, and it stops working a week later. And you still look old. And if the active ingredients are abrasive, you can worsen your skin or build up immunities in acne bacteria. For the most part, natural skincare tends to work proactively (not treat retroactively) with your skin. Its progress is often slow, but with better longterm effects.

That is not to say that all botanicals are trustworthy. Bath and Body Works and The Body Shop, for example, mostly uses petrochemicals like any other brand on the market, with a few "extracts" thrown in for good measure. Charlatans aside, I do have a few warnings about botanicals. Their effect is hard to measure, and hard to predict, unlike something like, say, benzoyl peroxide. And you are more likely to have an allergic reaction. Natural does not necessarily mean "safe". Sometimes the formulas are less elegant, because the widespread use of oils in natural skincare can feel filmy or greasy, and can actually be occlusive, but that's the price you pay if you want to avoid silicones, sulfates, and petrochemicals. But there exist lightweight, astringent oils like sunflower/safflower, hazelnut, jojoba, and grapeseed that are somewhat less problematic for oily or acne-prone skin, and it must be noted that some natural ingredients are exceptionally good for the skin, like aloe vera or shea butter, but take some time to absorb. Another difficulty you might encounter is the short shelf life of some of these products (I found that my Dr. Hauschka Rose Day Cream went bad in a year), which can be attributed to natural ingredients and low levels of preservatives. Again, if you are concerned about parabens, it is a small price to pay. Not every brand is 100% natural, and fewer still are organic, but I don't necessarily feel this is a bad thing. Saffron Rouge is a particularly good site for all sorts of natural skincare.

But other than these negatives, I find natural products to be, on the whole, more conscientious. Not just about the environment, though some companies like Dr. Hauschka and Jurlique go so far to grow their own ingredients on their own organic farms. They also tend to follow fair labor laws, though this is not a given. This sense of social conscientiousness, I often find, is present in the products themselves—they are often very conscientiously made. Every product I have tried from Jurlique, for example, has been excellent. Primavera is very promising thus far, but I've only tried one of the products. Dr. Hauschka I've had a little more trouble with, peanut oil tends to clog my pores. Decléor was my first foray into "botanicals", but it is more a "spa" line now that I know better; I find the moisturizers occlusive, but the Baumes and Aromaessences are worth trying at least once because they are originals. Caudalíe is very hit or miss, but they have wonderful scents. Sisley is a grand rip-off. Stella McCartney CARE, while I like the packaging (I prefer utilitarian, hygenic packaging when it comes to skincare, rather than the glamorous), is ok, at least for the price. Likewise for Fresh, though it is not all-natural. Better Botanicals is a really good brand, as is Body Time. Burt's Bees has a few stellar products, and a lot of ones one would rather forget about.

I am sure I am missing some, but they escape my mind. I have yet to try many brands.

The other nice thing about natural skincare is that some products are fairly easy to replicate. Love the gentle exfoliating effect of Dr. Hauschka Cleansing Cream but find it too expensive? Buy your own almond meal and grapeseed oil (plus whatever else you'd like to add) and grind it up. Like Decléor Aromaessences? Mix some high-quality oils together with essential oils, suited to your skin type.

I know less about natural haircare. I like Nature's Gate and Aubrey Organics and PHYTO. I wonder if the Herbal Hair Conditioner will work as a CO wash? Ever since I switched to this method, I can't even imagine using shampoo any more. I've been using Aubrey Organics Honeysuckle Rose Moisturizing Conditioner on the ends, and it's really good but too thick for cleansing, it doesn't spread well. A great part of the appeal for me about cleansing with conditioner is that I only need one product, and using two conditioners seems a bit pointless. The Nature's Gate has a light, watery texture, but it has some crazy humectant properties, because the result is quite rich. Plus, it comes in a a huge gallon size, and I love the scent.

Labels: better botanicals, body time, caudalie, decleor, dr. hauschka, fresh, jurlique, sisley, stella mccartney

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Posted by Dain, Wednesday, September 19, 2007 9:53 AM (Eastern)

One of the reasons why I can rationalize my lack of sunscreen usage is because I see so little sun. Bronze is not one of the looks I favor, but it has been very popular of late, approximately parallel to the rise of Gisele Bündchen who perhaps best epitomizes the modern bronzed beauty: beachy glamourous, wind tossed hair, toasty, dewy skin. I have chosen this next because it is somewhat of a variation on au naturel, albeit seasonal. Undereye concealer and defined brows, as ever, are a prerequisite.

THE BASICS

the tan: A natural tan is by far the best, imparting a glow to the skin that cannot be mimicked by tanning salons and the million variants on fake bakes that flood the market. I speak only of optimum aesthetics, without concerns for health hazards, which everyone has heard already. Too dark a tan is an obscenity, you should look healthily sunkissed, no more. Recommended products: I have minimal experience with self-tanners, so I can only point to the industry classics by Clarins or Jergen's.

mascara: Because a tan adds color to the face, the bronzed look requires less makeup overall. Just a touch of mascara will do, one that won't smear or budge in the humidity. Recommended product: Kiss Me Mascara.

OPTION 1
If your tan is perfect and requires no enhancement, the most longlasting, fuss-free option is a multipurpose stain like Becca Beach Tint or Stila Rose Convertible Color.

OPTION 2
For an extra touch of sun, a good bronzer like Guerlain Terracotta, no shimmer, no orange, should be applied with a big, dense, flat-top brush to the parts of the face that sunlight will hit: the forehead, the tip of the nose, the chin, and the cheeks. For lips, a natural tawny is a subtle complement, but why not take the opportunity to wear bright, juicy lipgloss, such as coral or watermelon, so fresh in summertime? Recommended products: Revlon Raisin Glaze SuperLustrous Lipgloss (a sheer rose-tawny), Fresh Desire Gloss Absolute (cherry popsicle).

ADDITIONS
A bit of gold highlight can look absolutely delicious on bronzed skin, especially on the eyes. Summer is not kind to makeup, so less is better and less is required, but if you cannot bear such nakedness before the world, a slick of black liner is a simple but flattering touch. Tans will let you get away with brighter colors, so this is one of the few times that blue or mint eyeshadow or any chalky pastel will look more appropriate than bold.

Images courtesy barbaralaurie.com, photo by Ken Browar (top) and jedroot.com, makeup by Pacos Blancas for Neiman Marcus and Nina Havercamp for French Elle (bottom).

Labels: becca, clarins, fresh, guerlain, kiss me, lookbook, revlon, stila

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Posted by Dain, Saturday, August 04, 2007 2:09 AM (Eastern)

Above: The ultimate lipcolor, red. Sorry to keep using this ad—it's beautiful, and demonstrated the power of lipstick well.

The best way to choose your lipcolor is to look to your blush (or blushes, as the case may be) as your guide. The old advice about matching your blush to your lipcolor is wrong—blush shouldn't match your other makeup, it should match you—but flip the rule around, and it works splendidly. For example, the best blushes for me are pink (NARS Desire, Becca Wild Orchid), pink-red (Becca Amaryllis, Benetint), and pink-berry (NARS Sin), so the lipsticks with a bit of pink look best on me: pink, rose, redcurrant (pink-red), roseberry (berry and pink), and raisin (usually pink, berry, AND red). I look terrible in bronzer or peach blush, consequently, I look terrible in nudes, peaches, corals, and browns. Once you find your perfect blush color, finding lipcolors is a breeze: they'll be invariably be variations on that blush shade.

This is a much better rule o' thumb than "a wee bit richer than your lipcolor", in my opinion, because you may want a shade better than that. I certainly do. This is why my "everyday" lipcolor, NARS Gothika Lip Gloss (I wish this came in lipstick form), more closely matches my favorite blush, NARS Sin, than my lips. It looks far better that way. Another favorite lipcolor of mine, Kevyn Aucoin Enchantaberry The Expert Lip Tint (a complex mix of red and berry with a little... you guess it... rose, a great raisin) is a really good match for Becca Amaryllis (because Amaryllis is probably a shade that can be used on everyone, I suspect that Enchantaberry is a universal color, depending on how you apply it). I've also had great success with sheer blackberries like Clinique Black Honey, because at heart they are sheer pinkish berries.

If I want to wear a coral, it needs a lot of pink (Fresh Desire Gloss Absolute), and if I want to wear a brown, it needs a lot of pink (Stila Brown Sugar) or red (Fresh Aster), and if I want to wear a nude, it needs a lot of pink (Guerlain Terre des Sables). But none of these shades are intuitively flattering; by contrast, NARS Gothika is perennially superb.

This rule of thumb is also helpful in choosing red lipstick, which I prefer to wear with a champagne highlighter or a clear, supersheer pink blush, as my everyday blush is rather on the strong side (NARS Sin, again). I can wear all sorts of red lipstick, from the classic cherry or the universal bloodred, but one with a bit of pink (you guessed it) is much more flattering, viz. Giorgio Armani Armanisilk #46 Bordeaux. CHANEL Sexy Rouge Allure also works really well: it's your classic shimmery redcurrant shade, but in a particularly beautiful (and expensive iteration).

I have noticed, also, that since I prefer strong blushes, I also prefer strong lipsticks. A coincidence? I think not. The opposite, I've noticed, tends to be true. I have high-contrast coloring, so I need the strong colors for balance, while someone with light hair and pale skin will prefer pastels, and someone with low-contrast coloring (hair and skin are close to each other in depth) will look best in dull, muted rosewoods and mauves. And as darker skintones require pigmented blush even to show up on their skin, likewise, they will also opt for stronger lipcolors like the high-contrast complexion, but as complex, muted, browntones like the low-contrast coloring (since skin and hair are also a close match). There's a distinct parallel, methinks.

So much for choosing a lipstick. Now, to the crucial minimalist question: how many does one need? My answer: a woman needs as many lipcolors as she has moods, a highly personal circumstance. I think most women need at least five or six: a YLBB "natural" everyday lip, a more sophisticated rich shade for professional settings, a nude to pair with dark eye looks, a bright, festive color to wear with a tan, and the epitome of lipstickdom, red. Personally, I need two to cover all my needs: NARS Gothika, a really rich burnished rose with berry undertones, which is equally natural enough for everyday and sophisticated enough for even the most professional setting, and Giorgio Armani Armanisilk #46 Bordeaux, my perfect red, a creamy, bright raspberry red for when I want something special. They are the two shades that are notable for attracting compliments, so I am well content with these two.

Oh, and a third, lip balm. The perfect lip balm, if you want just one, must have the perfect consistency: light enough to wear with lipcolors, but rich and protective enough to leave on overnight for severely chapped lips. I like Dr. Hauschka, it's expensive, smells of roses, and really makes me feel good.

PRODUCT COUNT: Three, everyday lipcolor, red lipcolor, and lip balm.

Labels: beauty notes, clinique, dr. hauschka, fresh, giorgio armani, guerlain, kevyn aucoin, lips, minimalism, nars, stila

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August 4, 2007 2:45 AM, Colleen Shirazi said...

That is an excellent analysis.

I have much less experience with blushes...I don't tend towards the pale, even in winter. You're right about there being a parallel lip color to the ideal blush color; there definitely is one. It's almost the equivalent to the perfect blush concept: a lip color that matches you, that is somehow your "lip blush," if that makes any sense. But it's not the same as the commonly used "your lips but better," exactly. More like "your lips but more, way more."

:D I don't have too many moods. I can respect the festive lip color concept, I've seen it done well and it works, but it just so is not me. I've become more a One True Lipstick person; maybe I'm one of those reformed lipstick ho's who became a lipstick nun. lol

August 4, 2007 3:12 AM, Dain said...

I guess I don't have too many moods either. : ) Or, at least, the two colors I've chosen are good enough to cover them. Mebbe I could add something really, really easy to wear (the two I've chosen are rather on the pigmented side), but eh... lip balm will do. Lipstick wears off on me real fast, as I tend to fidget.

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Posted by Dain, Sunday, July 15, 2007 1:36 AM (Eastern)

Time to start a new tradition! A best of beauty list, because other ones are boring and repetitive, as well as to celebrate the restructuring of our reviews section (still in progress). Feel free to add your own; the most central axiom to beauty products is that YMMV (your mileage may vary). NOTA BENE: These are all products I use myself, with the exception of the La Prairie Retexturizer, which is way too harsh for my delicate skin, but nevertheless is an excellent product.

Above: My new obsession, my HG summerweight moisturizer, Jurlique Herbal Recovery Gel, topped with Burt's Bees Repair Serum.

CLEANSER
Why, Cetaphil, of course! I've used this longer than I can properly recall. A simple cleanser is the way to go, in my humble opinion, as it quite literally washes down the drain.

TONER
I need to feel like a toner is more than scented water and alcohol. Dr. Hauschka makes the best toners, like herbal juices, and I love how they smell. The Facial Toner is strangely hydrating for dry skin (I say strangely because it has alcohol in it) and the Clarifying Toner is excellent for oily skin.

MOISTURIZER
I am too finicky about face creams to have found my perfect match yet. Some have the right texture and weight, but the smell may be less than desirable, or vice versa. For now, I have settled for Fresh Rice Face Cream, for its lovely rich (but not too rich) texture and soft apricot scent, though it is grossly overpriced for what it is. At least there are no expectations to defeat, as it claims nothing further than moisture. My favorite lightweight moisturizer is the vitamin-rich, antioxidant-packed Jurlique Herbal Recovery Gel, which manages not to be at all occlusive.

TREATMENT
Burt's Bees Repair Serum heals any number of woes without breaking the bank, while the powerful BHA/AHAs of La Prairie Cellular Retexturizing Booster will blast away acne and dull skin (so it works for anti-aging concerns, as well).

SUNSCREEN & SCRUB
I've yet to find ones I really like.

LIP BALM
Dr. Hauschka: all natural, it is rich enough for all but the most chapped lips, light enough to wear with lipstick, protective without being waxy, and soft without being greasy. I also love the beeswax and rose scent.

MAKEUP REMOVER
Bioderma Créaline H2O is really gentle yet effective and leaves no residue, though difficult to find.

To explore next:
Embryolisse Lait-Crème Concentré
Bioderma Photoderma MAX Lait
Jurlique Face Wash Cream
Primavera Skincare

Labels: burt's bees, crealine, cream of the crop, dr. hauschka, fresh, jurlique, la prairie, skin

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Posted by Dain, Friday, September 08, 2006 10:21 AM (Eastern)

SPONSORED by:

I had a hard time choosing the theme this month, but finally I had to settle on this one.

Solipsism is a natural tendency of people who think too much, but a whole school of them turns that tendency into an art form, with its own implicit rules and regulations. Simple eccentricity is transformed into an elaborate performance. For example, one of the most fashionable things is to deprecate Yale, but to other Yalies, only. To others, you simply, embarrassedly, murmur, "It's great...", looking very obviously away so that the recipient picks up on the hint that perhaps they're not getting the whole picture.

This is, of course, very silly. At root, I really do love this place. Every place is a mixture of good and bad qualities. It's cold and rigid and awkward, and competitive, full of bullshit, and judgemental, but it's true that there is a level of mental stimulation in everyday conversation that I do honestly find hard to find. People are smart, whatever else they may be. That, I'll miss.

And it's also just beautiful. Which to me, is a reason unto itself. This is my 'dorm' room, below:

That's my little brother and sister.

This list, therefore, is all about little somethings. A mix of everyday essentials, subtle enhancements, emergency fix-its (late nights and midterms take their toll), and little luxuries to make a home away from home. Even if you're not university-bound, however, this is still a great shopping list for any homebody; it does justice to all; everything's flattering and wearable and easy to use.

Good Home Co. Pure Grass Laundry Detergent $25: Turn a weekly chore into an everyday luxury. Even during the drear months of a New England winter, the scent of Pure Grass—of cut grass and sunlight and balmy breezes—wafting from your fresh linens will bring back summer. Your laundry will smell so fresh that you'll look forward to doing your laundry just to sink your nose into the wonderful scent. You won't be able to stop sniffing. A word to the wise: buy the big 64-oz bottles, they are only $5 more expensive, but almost twice as much product! (Even if the small bottles are more stylish.)

Kevyn Aucoin Liquifuschia The Moist Creamy Glow $24: Toasty tan blushes are all very well, but my pick for universal color is a bright, garish fuschia. Don't be alarmed by the intensity of the color: applied sheerly, the color picks up the creaminess of the skin, perks up sallow, tired skin, and gives you a glow that looks natural, not overdone. Looks especially good on yellow skintones. Like all other Kevyn Aucoin products, The Moist Creamy Glow is a superb product, with a waxy texture that disappears into the skin for a glow-from-within effect. A good blush makes you look instantly better. I want them all now!

Sue Devitt Northern Lights Balanced Sheer Lipstick $20: I don't understand. I must have a dozen of these shades. They're essentially the same color, but I keep buying them! Every time I open my makeup drawer, there are dozens more! It's like they breed! This is a common complaint among makeup junkies everywhere: the same shade of lipstick multiplying in one's stash. Why do we buy the same shade over and over again? My answer: because, over time, and over many, many lipsticks, we figure out what looks good on us, and learn to detect the subtle distinctions within that particular color family, all automatically. You get to sample diversity while basking in the assurance that it looks good, no matter what. My particular vice goes the way of roses: red roses and pink roses, even the stainy blackcurrant stain of dried roses. Hence Northern Lights, part of the Fall 2006 color story by Sue Devitt, Viking Voyage, a warm, sheer salmon pink, matte but with gold and silver sparkles (all at once!). I had to have it.

Fresh Lotus Eye Gel $48: Looking haggard is de rigueur 'round campus (come visit during finals and you'll get it). When it comes to skin, no place shows this more visible than the eyes: shadows, wrinkles, puffiness. Enter Fresh Lotus Eye Gel, which is emollient enough for the delicate skin under eyes, but not so greasy that concealer slips and slides over it. Pop it in the fridge to make it refreshingly cool, and thank me in time.

NARS Push Eyeliner $25 and NARS Bengali Eye Shadow Single $21: While mascara is what most women deem "most essential" (with good reason), I've chosen eyeliner, instead. Why? It's got more versatility. With liquid eyeliner, you can make sex-kitten bedroom eyes, à la Marilyn Monroe. With smudgy kohl, you can give yourself a Cleopatra-eque smoky eyes. Bright colors are easy to wear in the form of eyeliner, so that even the most timid of gentil ladyes can venture forth with periwinkle or violet. But best of all is when eyeliner is natural, with a flat eyelining brush, like this fantastic one from NARS. It's subtle enhancement to one's eye color, lending definition to eyes, and lushifying lashes. Just blend the pigment-rich eyeshadow (here, I've chosen a looks-good-on-everyone dark brown with plummy tones) into the lash line, and you just look... instantly better, not made up.

Bvlgari BLV Notte pour Femme EDP $60: You just need to get to know BLV Notte better. When first you meet BLV Notte, it engages in olfactory theatrics: ginger, vodka, and dark chocolate. The chocolate note is rich, not sugary, and the ginger is spicy but crystalline (and I don't like ginger). But within ten to fifteen minutes, this aggression fades, into something like musky iris and velvety cocoa powder, and for most of its life, is nothing more than a glorious 'skin scent', rich and spare, cold and hot, sweet and musky, all at once. It's subtle, but sexy, like the way I would have dreamed Thierry Mugler's Angel to have smelled (except that Angel smells like cat piss on me). BLV Notte is incredibly seductive, I can see this being an incredible man-magnet, but it's cozy at the same time, so a snuggly sort of man, if you please.

Awake Vital Express $68: Tired skin is anything but radiant, clear, and healthy. The cure-all answer to dull, spotty (and aging) skin is vitamin C, which, when effective, forages free-radicals and reverses sun damage, as well lightening scars and spots, and working as a sort of anti-bacterial agent. The trouble is, of course, that vitamin C is highly unstable and loses its efficacy within a very short period of time. Awake Vital Express solves that problem, because it comes dry, so that all of its potency is retained until you apply it to your skin. I don't use this every day, but on occasion, just to effect a 'glow'.

L'Occitane Shea Butter $36: It may strike you as obscene, to buy a tin of shea butter at such prices, but if you've dry skin, it's a veritable miracle worker (it's my favorite lip balm!). There are a score of does-it-all balms out there, from Elizabeth Arden Eight-Hour Cream to Jing Jang Creme to Vaseline to Smith's Rosebud Salve, meant to target everything from elbows to heels to cuticles to lips to hair to knees—whatever is dry and sensitive—but I favor this silky stuff. It's simple and gentle, fragrance free, luxe, 100% pure, and it comes in a travel-friendly, stylish container. It's good for you, everywhere. Try the little tin ($8) for lip balm!

Kevyn Aucoin The Sensual Skin Enhancer Foundation $45: SSE, as this product is fondly called among addicts, is not really a foundation, though it certainly could be used as such (using a sponge for sheerest application, or mixed with moisturizer). It is so pigmented that it works better as concealer, and then, in the TINIEST amounts. And I do mean, TINY. A dollop the size of a grain of rice is sufficient for most. Dab it on with a point concealer brush, then blend by gently patting with your finger, and that's it! Though the jar is tiny, for $42, you'll get a lot of mileage from a product so concentrated. My perfect shade: SX 05.