1. Each perfume must be technically excellent but not inaccessible: a middle ground. These are iconic and therefore representative, but I tried to favor wearability over artistry, because I am particularly interested in the question of "why we wear perfume" rather than "how we make perfume". Helg's emphasis on historicity represents the other point of view, the perfumer rather than the perfumed.
2. Collectively, it is important that each has its own distinct character, like a well edited harem. If they are representative, what should they represent? Again, I considered why we we wear perfume—not of necessity, for it is not a life or death matter, but for the joy of it, how it adds a metaphorical dimension to our existence. Metaphors are evocative, but in distinct, characteristic ways—why do hesperides telegraph fresh and clean while animalics suggest dirt and darkness?

Labels: andy tauer, caron, chanel, frederic malle, guerlain, jean patou, narciso rodriguez, perfume, philosophy, serge lutens, the mnemonic sense

Labels: culture notes, internet, philosophy

Labels: caron, givenchy, guerlain, people of the labyrinths, perfume, philosophy, robert piguet, serge lutens, the mnemonic sense

Labels: chanel, philosophy, the mnemonic sense

Labels: caron, jean patou, perfume, philosophy, serge lutens, the mnemonic sense

Makeup: 4. It might experience a bit of tweaking here and there, and NARS Duos are always welcome, but it is quite a settled thing: undereye concealer and vibrant rosy blush, brow pencil, ultrablack mascara and inner-rim definition, dusky sable eyeliner, three shadows (fleshtone shimmer, ethereal lilac, moody sea blue), three lipcolors (burnished raspberry, luscious berry, dramatic red). Oh, and a great powder compact, for touch-ups. Most beauty junkies admit to hundreds of lipsticks and eyeshadows, but I often find the flavor of boastfulness in such "confessions". These women have no intention of curbing their habits, in fact, it is proof of their "expertise" and "taste". I have fourteen products. Fourteen. Each product must meet exceptionally exact specifications, and if that does not refine your taste, I do not know what will.

Skincare: 3 ½ A bit premature to declare 4 (I should wait till a year rolls by to be absolutely certain of its fitness), but it is close: Lancôme Bi-Facil, Primavera Refining Exfoliating Cleanser, Jurlique Herbal Recovery Cream, Embryolisse Lait-Crème Concentré. The heart of this routine is very simple and pure, the Primavera cleanser and the Jurlique treatment, and though softer, brighter skin is apparent from the first, the effects are cumulative. What you end up with is healthy, normal skin. This is hardly a poetic description, but it is exactly what skincare should do, for when the skin is normal and healthy, it takes care of itself. Of course, my skin tends to be dry, and I wear makeup, so some additions are necessary.

Hair: 4 By default, because I'll admit, as long as I have Phyto 7, which I go through as other women do mascara, it does not matter. It keeps the parched ends of my long, dry hair silky soft, and again, the effects are cumulative. I prefer basic products that smell good—a shampoo that does not strip, a conditioner that moisturizes—I daresay I'll return to Nature's Gate. I tried the CO Wash, but I just... don't like the way cheap conditioners smell.

Closet: 3 I have more to say about this, but it is an ongoing project, chronicled in greater detail in Closet Confidential. The ultimate goal is to fit my entire wardrobe in one generous piece of luggage, an ambitious project, to be sure, but I think I'll live. It requires very careful consideration, though, so it has progressed slowly thus far.

Perfume: 2 Pathetic, I need to work on this, though I have begun the process of paring down what I have gathered heedlessly from ebay and the occasional press kit. Thankfully, The Perfumed Court has graciously allowed me to sample a few of their myriad offerings, and the interview and reviews shall be forthcoming, in the ongoing series, The Mnemonic Sense.

Labels: beauty notes, minimalism, philosophy

Labels: chanel, fashion notes, philosophy

Labels: american apparel, closet confidential, minimalism, philosophy

One True Blush vivid cool rose, it's not quite neutral, as leans ever so slightly towards purplish
Everyday Lipcolor NARS Gothika is essentially my first favorite lipcolor (Jane Loco Cocoa) all grown up: a burnished rose with soft gold shimmer, with substantial berry undertones a slight browned peachiness—so superbly balanced that it supplants all other lipcolors
Intense Lipcolor except when I desire drama, in which case Giorgio Armani Armanisilk #46 Bordeaux, a creamy raspberry-tinged crimson (cool, but more subdued than a purplish blue-red) that flatters exemplarily
Smoky Liner the easy-smudge formula of MAC Teddy Kohl, with its better-than-basic sable shimmer, pairs with absolutely everything
"Fleshtone" Eyecolor the silvered champagne of NARS All About Eve may look a boring beige, but the conglomerate of many shimmers (silver, beige, peach, gold, even pink and green) mimics light itself
Complementary Eyecolor for something fresh and pretty, I trade in Chanel Lavande as a wash, an ethereal lilac of stunning complexity that goes not the way of inferior lilacs: over-frosty, superpastel, too blue, too pink, delicate but not ephemeral
Contrasting Eyecolor the moody sea blue of L'Oréal HIP Sassy is gorgeously edgy as liner (applied over black pencil, thusly included), especially in concert with the brown of my eyes