Notes from the Editors of The Lipstick Page Forums: A Dedication to the Art of Beauty and Fashion.

Meet the Staff: The Sketchbook

· Blog Home
· Profile
· MySpace
· Contact Us
· FAQ/TOS

On This Page
· Beauty Notebook FEBRUARY 2008: The Perfumed Court
· Beauty Notes: Perfumes Sample Wishlist
· Beauty Notes: Unique Books and Hand-Decanted Perfumes
· Where to get perfume samples
· Couple of indie links
· Aedes.com samples arrive...
· Aedes.com: seven samples for $15 rides again
· Aedes samples arrived...

Comments
· July 24, 2007 11:30 PM by Blogger Dain
· June 18, 2007 4:59 PM by Blogger Dain
· June 18, 2007 6:05 PM by Blogger Colleen Shirazi

Archives
· Beauty Blog (2003-2004)
· Fashion Blog (archive)
· New Releases Blog (archive)
· Beauty Articles (archive)
· April 2005
· May 2005
· June 2005
· July 2005
· August 2005
· September 2005
· October 2005
· November 2005
· December 2005
· January 2006
· February 2006
· March 2006
· April 2006
· May 2006
· June 2006
· July 2006
· August 2006
· September 2006
· October 2006
· November 2006
· December 2006
· January 2007
· February 2007
· March 2007
· April 2007
· May 2007
· June 2007
· July 2007
· August 2007
· September 2007
· October 2007
· November 2007
· December 2007
· January 2008
· February 2008
· March 2008
· April 2008
· May 2008
· June 2008
· July 2008
· August 2008

Blog
Recent blog posts:





Links
Barneys
refinery29
The Sartorialist
Jargol
Perfume Shrine
Ambre Gris
Polyvore
The Fashioniste
The Powder Group
LA-Story.com
Dain's Literary Attempts
Colleen's Beading Blog
Colleen's Adult Acne Blog

The Beauty Blog Network



Blog Directory
Add to Technorati Favorites
eponym blog directory BETA
As Seen on Delightfulblogs.com
Health Blogs - Blog Top Sites
Eponym Blog Directory.
TBF Project:Blog
Health Blogs - Blog Catalog Blog Directory
Search For Blogs, Submit Blogs, The Ultimate Blog Directory
Find Blogs in the Blog Directory


 
The Lipstick Page Forums Beauty & Fashion Blog


Beauty Notebook FEBRUARY 2008: The Perfumed Court
Posted by Dain, Friday, February 01, 2008 2:14 PM (Eastern)

Approach a Sephora these days, and a sickly sweet miasma rises to greet you, the near visible haze of a mirage. Along the walls array the tinsel-tinted flacons, and the fleet of black-robed automatons to man them. Dragged within this black-and-white candy store for grown-up women, the boyfriends whine, "It smells bad. Can't I wait outside?" But these mewlings fall on deaf ears. It is like an episode of Nature: "Here we see the modern American woman in her natural environment, a-shopping; the shining white of her eye indicates her obliviousness to the demands on the male, who is, perhaps, less than impressed". And yet, in spite of my caricature, there is a definite, growing population of women who shy away from such confectionery trash, and the explosion of niche and exclusive lines intends to match the demands of more discriminating tastes. The reason why some consumers turn their noses at celebrity perfumes and featureless flankers should be obvious: everything smells the same.

When it comes to almost everything else, most people prefer to wear what other people wear, with celebrity sanction if possible. The widely commercialized Coco Mademoiselle sells more consistently than Mitsouko (an assumed masterpiece amongst pundits), but nevertheless, perfume tends to be a personal affair. Even the most conventional take pride in the fact that they alone wear that particular scent amongst their entire acquaintance. Given the choice, a woman prefers a unique scent, and it is hardly her fault if the choices fail in that regard. Can you imagine someone coming up the counter and asking, "Hi, I'm looking for a new perfume, what will make me smell like everyone else so I can just, you know, disappear?" The far more likely question is, "Hi, I'm looking for a new perfume, what's special?"

To find character in perfumes again, many have fled to niche lines, but niche has its own drawbacks. The first is that hype may not meet the standards of cold hard reality. And the other, where do you even find these obscure lines, other than online where one cannot test firsthand? In my humble experience, reviews are useful, but only to an extent. In perfumery, the imagination o'erleaps itself: one must sniff by oneself, for oneself. Rely on reviews for direction rather than opinion. There might be a perfume, not quite desirable as a whole, but with many admirable elements worth pursuing, and this kind of calculated accident is the method most of us use to find "our" perfumes. Even with Ebay, it is very expensive to subsist on full bottles. Thankfully, there are decants and sample services, and none offers the quality of service, breadth of perfume knowledge, and sheer diversity of offerings as The Perfumed Court, a title that the Sun King once claimed for his own (in addition to everything else). They have nearly everything that jaded noses, shriveled hearts, and covetous claws may demand, from vintage parfums long discontinued to European exclusives. To explore the site is get lost in the possibilities. And this month, they have been gracious enough to sponsor our Beauty Notebook:

    How did The Perfumed Court begin? We each had separate businesses on eBay and some of us on a website as well. April 2006, eBay decided to ban decant and sample sales for reasons that have never been clear to anyone. Prior to that, a couple of us had been talking about doing a joint website together, combining our product so we could offer more in one place. After that, we all got together and decided to create The Perfumed Court since the costs of creating an easy to navigate website with a lot of features is very, very high, and we could all offer a lot more together in one place and split the start-up costs and ongoing costs.

    I have noticed that you only occasionally pass value judgment on the scents themselves, just the notes and maybe a bare description (much appreciated because it does not cloud the imagination). But it makes me curious about your personal tastes. Do you four mostly agree on scents, or do you have wildly varying styles? Our tastes are probably as different as the individual population, but I do find the longer you play in perfume, tastes tend to run together to some degree. You can definitely appreciate a well-made scent, whether it is department store, vintage, or high end niche. The magic is in the composition. When done well, even if it doesn't appeal to your personal taste, you can admire the skill and talent that went into making it.

    The Perfumed Court provides a service unique to few, but it stands out particularly in your comprehensive ability to source rare perfumes. How do you do it? What's the secret to finding a difficult bottle? We all have our specialties. Some of us are great at finding rare vintage things, which takes a tremendous amount of patience and skill. Some of us are good at spotting the latest thing coming from some obscure shop in Europe or having contacts in Europe that will ship to us. Each of us does take a trip to Paris or Europe at least once a year to pick up things that we can't get shipped at all or easily, plus to spot hidden treasures in the stores in Paris and London. It's time consuming and heart-breaking sometimes. Nothing is worse than getting a hold of some obscure Guerlain treasure, opening it and finding out it is alcohol that you paid several hundred dollars for.

    I know this may be an impossible question, but if you had to stick to just ten must-tries, which ones would top your list? This is harder than you know, and each of us would have four different answers. Here is Lisa's list: People of the Labyrinths Luctor et Emergo, Caron Tabac Blond, Guerlain Vol de Nuit, Shiseido Nombre Noir, Montale Black Aoud, Coty Chypre, Chanel No. 5, Serge Lutens Tubereuse Criminelle, Dior Diorissimo, Thierry Mugler Angel. [Editor's Note: Dangerously close to mine.]
If scent is truly the mnemonic sense, then it is quite primal indeed, intimately tied to our identities. We speak of it, sometimes very eloquently, as if they were great paintings or the molecules of science or famous people or lines of music—but in truth that is all purple prose. Our relationship with perfume is more profound than thought, more primitive than language. We wear what we wear for the sentiment it inspires and the cloak of psychological empowerment that descends upon us, but how this process works is a mystery. Many perfumes are worth the appreciation, but as fun, and occasionally eye-opening, flirtation with samples may be, there are deeper, sometimes unaccountable reasons why we commit to any particular bottle. Ultimately, no one can explain the inconsistency of perfume kismet (Part 1, Part 2, Part 3). The same perfume changes according to weather, concentration, vintage, and especially, the wearer. It must battle many, many prejudices; men refusing to wear "feminines", floral-haters (it's ok, I'm a fruit-hater), Saint Serge Lutens, and goddammit Britney, no one wants to smell like you. Nothing could be more subjective, and the mass-market brands are suffering for their lack of understanding, and I really think, for their lack of imagination.

Because there is no persuasion quite like the example, I have attempted to choose such samples that would reflect a real individual's experience in the niche world. I am no pundit (far from it), I'll sniff appreciatively at a sample, but when I go to bed, my heart will not ache over Le Labo. I have more modest goals: I just want to find what I really, truly love. But that in itself is quite a feat. These are the parameters to this experiment. No initial house overlap and as few notes in common as possible to ensure the greatest variety in experience. Nevertheless, within a broad category like "bombshell" or "quiet". And most importantly, choices that are based on review hearsay, to evaluate the dangers of buying unsniffed.

Since blogs are better in bite-size morsels (a maxim by which I rarely abide), please move onto the second half (to be published on the morrow) for the actual results.

Labels: , , , ,


0 comment(s)  
 
Post a comment (NO SPAM) Permalink . del.icio.us . Stumble



Beauty Notes: Perfumes Sample Wishlist
Posted by Dain, Thursday, January 17, 2008 9:17 AM (Eastern)

Just some scratch, more for my own edification than anyone else's. It's funny how exploring the samples you have, and the samples you get, only makes you want more samples.


Above: A vintage Dior perfume advertisement by René Gruau (a site with his work is linked). *sigh* They don't really make them like they used to, do they?

Diorissimo: I would like to explore lily of the valley, because it is a heady white floral but does not lend itself to gourmand-bastardization. I liked it in Chanel No. 19, and I like Serge Lutens Un Lys, but Diorissimo is the iconic lily-of-the-valley perfume. I am not really into citrus, but I like a unabashed white floral for the summer. I'm considering Miss Dior (leather) as well.

Jean Patou: Joy is gorgeous, though not for me, I feel too young and stupid in it. Sublime is a lovely consummate floriental, but just a little too sweet. Sira des Indes is way too fruity. So thus far, I have yet to find to a Jean Patou that's really "me", except for Normandie (and I want the impossible-to-find parfum). I'd consider the Ma Collection, or maybe 1000.

Chanel 31 Rue Cambon: I could use a sample of this rather than going by memory alone. This and Caron Pour un Homme are pit against each other for my "light and unobtrusive" perfume, a quiet scent for home and comfort.

POTL Luctor et Emergo: Since I really like Turkish delight fragrances, I might as well try the exalted cult classic.

Caron Poivre/Coup de Fouet, Robert Piguet Bandit, and possibly Montale Oud Cuir d'Arabie: Mmm... all of these are inspired by Caron Tabac Blond, which has its difficult stages (unclean ashtray) and its transcendent stages (carnation and leather). I might pursue the carnation in Poivre/Coup de Fouet (different names for the different concentrations), even wickeder than Tabac Blond, who is probably only sarcastic. I'd also like to try a Montale that does not feature rose; Montale has gorgeous roses, but it is not really my thing. As for Bandit, I've only briefly smelled it but I liked it better than Fracas. I'm now kicking myself for not buying that $30 bottle of EDP that was on sale a few thousand heartbeats ago. A leather chypre, and it has carnation (as well many other things).

Guerlain Mitsouko: Only sniffed, would like to revisit. I've heard Tabac Blond is Mitsouko naked, and this has a peachiness that might recall Serge Lutens Bois et Fruits. Plus, Nancy (one of our posters) once told me that Mitsouko struck her as "the" perfume for me, and in testing it, I would like do her homage.

EDIT: Hm, actually, stupid me. The problem is: (1) Carons are better when approached a teeny little drop at a time (or a spray at a distance), (2) this is the parfum concentration so this is doubly true. Tabac Blond has no yuck factor when applied properly, so I may just need to reevaluate this list.

Labels: , ,


0 comment(s)  
 
Post a comment (NO SPAM) Permalink . del.icio.us . Stumble



Beauty Notes: Unique Books and Hand-Decanted Perfumes
Posted by Colleen Shirazi, Saturday, January 05, 2008 10:57 PM (Eastern)

Eiderdown Press: Unique Books and Hand-Decanted Perfumes


Labels: , , ,


0 comment(s)  
 
Post a comment (NO SPAM) Permalink . del.icio.us . Stumble



Where to get perfume samples
Posted by Colleen Shirazi, Wednesday, September 12, 2007 12:11 PM (Eastern)

ParfumsRaffy.com
Aedes de Venustas
LuckyScent
LusciousCargo.com
beautyhabit.com
beautycafe.com
The Perfume Shoppe (Canadian)
Aus Liebe zum Duft (German)

Independent perfumers:
Ava Luxe
Antonia's Flowers
Black Phoenix Alchemy Lab
Modern Atelier
DSH Perfumes

Decant services:
The Perfumed Court
You Smell Marvelous

Perfume essences:
Madini

I've tried only the first two, but from all I've read, they are reputable.

Labels: , ,


0 comment(s)  
 
Post a comment (NO SPAM) Permalink . del.icio.us . Stumble



Couple of indie links
Posted by Colleen Shirazi, Tuesday, July 24, 2007 6:09 PM (Eastern)

Fragrant Fripperies Fragrance Decant & Sample service

I haven't tried them; however, if you're looking for perfume samples, might be the way to go.

Sweetpeacurli's Silly Little Site

I realize I linked to this earlier, when it was still called Sweetpeacali's Haircare Guide. As the name has changed, I'm linking to it again. Still one of the most comprehensive listings of sulfate-free shampoos and silicone-free conditioners.

Labels: , , , , ,


1 comment(s)  
 
July 24, 2007 11:30 PM, Blogger Dain said...

Ooo... that's great, the perfume sampling site. They have pretty much everything you'd ever want to sample.

 
Post a comment (NO SPAM) Permalink . del.icio.us . Stumble



Aedes.com samples arrive...
Posted by Colleen Shirazi, Monday, June 18, 2007 2:13 PM (Eastern)

annick goutal perfume samples

Mmmmm. I haven't tried any yet. The package smells heavenly, like Harper Lee's description of "the ladies" in To Kill a Mockingbird (funny how cosmetically-inclined people remember stuff like that: the Tangee Natural lipstick, the Cutex Natural nail polish).

Labels: , ,


2 comment(s)  
 
June 18, 2007 4:59 PM, Blogger Dain said...

Yay! How fun! I've only really tried Nuit d'Hadrien, and it's yummy, though I'm not really into citrus. But considering that I am not, I think that speaks well for it.

 
June 18, 2007 6:05 PM, Blogger Colleen Shirazi said...

I'm trying out Songes today...by "trying out" I mean I dabbed one teeny drop of it on my wrist. It's quite strong. I'm not sure if I like it yet. It could stand to be a tad more complex...I suppose it reminds me somehow of Organza, but stronger, sweeter, less complex. But those could be good things.

 
Post a comment (NO SPAM) Permalink . del.icio.us . Stumble



Aedes.com: seven samples for $15 rides again
Posted by Colleen Shirazi, Thursday, June 14, 2007 8:55 PM (Eastern)

I'm at the end of Armani Code--which is a terrific scent btw--but I'd like to replace it with something different. There are a few scents on my short list: Annick Goutal Ce Soir Ou Jamais and Eau d'Hadrien, Etro Royal Pavillon (Shaal Nur is a good one too but seems more of a winter scent), uh...as I say, it's a short list.

Enter aedes.com. Today I ordered their sample pack...and the samples are generous; you get vials with enough to thoroughly road test your fragrance...as follows (all Annick Goutal):

First choices:
Neroli
Songes
Rose Absolue
Gardenia Passion
Heure Exquise
Le Jasmin
Les Nuits d'Hadrien
If out of stock, please substitute:
Passion
Eau de Ciel

(You can order samples of any of the fragrances on the site; these are just the ones I wanted to try.)

Of the group, I've smelled only Gardenia Passion and Les Nuits d'Hadrien. Both smell good in their individual way--Gardenia Passion's virtue is that it smells like a bona fide gardenia, without the chemical, even harsh undertone of other gardenia perfumes.

Les Nuits d'Hadrien...well...don't remember exactly, just that it was wonderfully complex.

image courtesy aedes.com

Labels: , ,


0 comment(s)  
 
Post a comment (NO SPAM) Permalink . del.icio.us . Stumble



Aedes samples arrived...
Posted by Colleen Shirazi, Wednesday, August 30, 2006 11:15 PM (Eastern)

Today I got my aedes.com samples. They were nice enough to chip in an extra sample (either that or they made a mistake in my favor). Anyhow I ordered a mess o' Etro samples...because the Etro's I have tried were so complex that it would be difficult to make a decision based upon a few sprays alone.

Here's what's in the pipe (and mind you, these are generous samples...the glass vials all look full):

Royal Pavilion
Shaal Nur
Lemon Sorbet
Sandalo
Gomma
Vicolo Fiori
Heliotrope

Messe de Minuit was my "lagniappe."

I haven't tried even one of them yet.


, ,

Labels: , ,


0 comment(s)  
 
Post a comment (NO SPAM) Permalink . del.icio.us . Stumble



 
Tell me when this blog is updated! Your email:

Delivered by FeedBurner


Google Custom Search




 subscribe in a reader



Powered by Blogger