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Beauty Notes: A Drop of Rain in the Desert Posted by Dain, Monday, January 21, 2008 5:29 AM (Eastern) Among all the cheats in the luxury industry, nothing raises my ire quite like the expensive face cream. Acne and anti-aging products are the money-spinners in the skincare industry, because everybody really wants perfect skin. I can empathize with this, skincare is certainly more important than the eyeshadow that comes after it: pigments are just warpaint, skin is your face. But the way the skincare industry would have it, a woman should live in persistent fear of being less than perfection. When you are young, we must make ferocious battle with acne, doomed to social seppuku should we fail. Even as acne and adolescence abate (for many of us, but not all) in our mid-20s, these insecurities are fueled directly into concerns anti-aging. Now that we've graduated from pizza face, do we really want to descend into hagdom? Ehh... utterly ridiculous. There's not very much that will seriously alter genetics and if people like Stephen Hawking think that time travel is impossible, then there is no way that a paste of chemicals from the tar pits of the Estée Lauder kingdom would fare any better. Most anti-aging creams work, because aging skin is generally dehydrated and dull, and a good moisturizer gives the appearance of plump, flexible, and radiant skin. ![]() Now, it may turn out that your skin likes Crème de la Mer best of all. Nevermind that EL has reformulated it, it is still your wallet and your skin. But I think there is a reason why Cetaphil Gentle Skin Cleanser and Kiehl's Ultra Facial Moisturizer are consistent bestsellers, at any price level: skincare is at its best when it is basic but good. In short, whatever you may believe, your skin is more likely to take a more sensible view. This is all a very long introduction. I just wanted to list some of the good moisturizers I have found in my testings. They are all simple and gentle hydrators that absorb well, with minimal fragrance. I've ordered them from lightest to heaviest, so you may judge for yourself which is best suited to your skin type. ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() Labels: beauty notes, better botanicals, complex 15, embryolisse, jurlique, la roche posay, malin + goetz, sisley, skin
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Beauty Notes: Going Green Posted by Dain, Wednesday, October 03, 2007 6:36 PM (Eastern) ![]() I seem possessed by a cantakerous streak these days, though I'm not sure why. I seem inclined to hate everything. Maybe I'm PMS-ing? Doesn't feel like it. Maybe I've been blogging overmuch? Noooo... Or, perhaps it's just hard to switch from very deep to very frivolous writing at will? Perhaps. Whatever the case may be, I will try to be better behaved. For a little bit of spotless virtue in your life, why not consider going green? It's a small thing everyone can do, and it is better for your hair and skin. Over the years, I have noticed that I have gravitated towards natural skincare, though not, it seems, on purpose. In my search for the perfect routine, it was often the case that I'd choose natural products because they seemed superior. For the most part, they don't claim to be instant miracle cures, which I find insulting. You drop $300 on the latest anti-aging it cream or whatever, and it stops working a week later. And you still look old. And if the active ingredients are abrasive, you can worsen your skin or build up immunities in acne bacteria. For the most part, natural skincare tends to work proactively (not treat retroactively) with your skin. Its progress is often slow, but with better longterm effects. That is not to say that all botanicals are trustworthy. Bath and Body Works and The Body Shop, for example, mostly uses petrochemicals like any other brand on the market, with a few "extracts" thrown in for good measure. Charlatans aside, I do have a few warnings about botanicals. Their effect is hard to measure, and hard to predict, unlike something like, say, benzoyl peroxide. And you are more likely to have an allergic reaction. Natural does not necessarily mean "safe". Sometimes the formulas are less elegant, because the widespread use of oils in natural skincare can feel filmy or greasy, and can actually be occlusive, but that's the price you pay if you want to avoid silicones, sulfates, and petrochemicals. But there exist lightweight, astringent oils like sunflower/safflower, hazelnut, jojoba, and grapeseed that are somewhat less problematic for oily or acne-prone skin, and it must be noted that some natural ingredients are exceptionally good for the skin, like aloe vera or shea butter, but take some time to absorb. Another difficulty you might encounter is the short shelf life of some of these products (I found that my Dr. Hauschka Rose Day Cream went bad in a year), which can be attributed to natural ingredients and low levels of preservatives. Again, if you are concerned about parabens, it is a small price to pay. Not every brand is 100% natural, and fewer still are organic, but I don't necessarily feel this is a bad thing. Saffron Rouge is a particularly good site for all sorts of natural skincare. But other than these negatives, I find natural products to be, on the whole, more conscientious. Not just about the environment, though some companies like Dr. Hauschka and Jurlique go so far to grow their own ingredients on their own organic farms. They also tend to follow fair labor laws, though this is not a given. This sense of social conscientiousness, I often find, is present in the products themselves—they are often very conscientiously made. Every product I have tried from Jurlique, for example, has been excellent. Primavera is very promising thus far, but I've only tried one of the products. Dr. Hauschka I've had a little more trouble with, peanut oil tends to clog my pores. Decléor was my first foray into "botanicals", but it is more a "spa" line now that I know better; I find the moisturizers occlusive, but the Baumes and Aromaessences are worth trying at least once because they are originals. Caudalíe is very hit or miss, but they have wonderful scents. Sisley is a grand rip-off. Stella McCartney CARE, while I like the packaging (I prefer utilitarian, hygenic packaging when it comes to skincare, rather than the glamorous), is ok, at least for the price. Likewise for Fresh, though it is not all-natural. Better Botanicals is a really good brand, as is Body Time. Burt's Bees has a few stellar products, and a lot of ones one would rather forget about. I am sure I am missing some, but they escape my mind. I have yet to try many brands. The other nice thing about natural skincare is that some products are fairly easy to replicate. Love the gentle exfoliating effect of Dr. Hauschka Cleansing Cream but find it too expensive? Buy your own almond meal and grapeseed oil (plus whatever else you'd like to add) and grind it up. Like Decléor Aromaessences? Mix some high-quality oils together with essential oils, suited to your skin type. I know less about natural haircare. I like Nature's Gate and Aubrey Organics and PHYTO. I wonder if the Herbal Hair Conditioner will work as a CO wash? Ever since I switched to this method, I can't even imagine using shampoo any more. I've been using Aubrey Organics Honeysuckle Rose Moisturizing Conditioner on the ends, and it's really good but too thick for cleansing, it doesn't spread well. A great part of the appeal for me about cleansing with conditioner is that I only need one product, and using two conditioners seems a bit pointless. The Nature's Gate has a light, watery texture, but it has some crazy humectant properties, because the result is quite rich. Plus, it comes in a a huge gallon size, and I love the scent. Labels: better botanicals, body time, caudalie, decleor, dr. hauschka, fresh, jurlique, sisley, stella mccartney Sisley Posted by Dain, Monday, June 18, 2007 8:53 PM (Eastern) Thus far, I've had the opportunity to test three of their products. ![]() ![]() ![]() Labels: sisley Rambles (5.31.07) Posted by Dain, Thursday, May 31, 2007 8:46 PM (Eastern) It's been a while. I was gone during "Dead Week", a Yale tradition in which seniors go to Myrtle Beach for a week after finals, except that my friends and I are not really the sort to go White-Trash Heaven (as it was later described to me), so we went elsewhere: first, camping in the Adirondacks, and second, Montreal! And then it was "Senior Week", i.e. continuous drunkenness at so-called events. And then, graduation itself, which was simultaneously tedious and exciting, but mostly tedious. So, I've been busy. Not much to speak of on the beauty front, but I had the opportunity to go to Holt's while in Montreal, and discovered a few things. Camping is not my thing. We had the misfortune, after brilliant weather in New Haven, to encounter rainy and chilly weather in the Adirondacks. I refused to sleep in a tent, and slept in Tiffany's Jeep instead. I mean, honestly... do I seem like a camper to you? The only great beauty moment, was taking a shower after two days of wallowing in damp dirt: MOR lemongrass soap, the magic of toothpaste, and Nuxe Creme Fraiche. But we crossed the border... And Montreal is a very urban landscape. It's got a bit of a depressing air, a city that thinks constantly of winter, but the people are warm and open, maybe because they spend so much time indoors with each other. It's incredibly ethnic, bars and boutiques and restaurants everywhere, all from myriad origins: Lebanese, Szechuan, Alsatien, Ethiopian, Greek, Peruvian, Belgian, you name it. And it's weird, stepping out of British North America; it's still America (in the broad sense), but it's also kind of French. Great city. We all had a fantastic time. I brought: BVLGARI BLV Notte pour Femme, a crystalline musk-iris-ginger-chocolate (in order of declining strengths) cold cold cold scent that I thought would be perfect for Montreal. But onto the beauty stuff. I went into Holt's, the Canadian equivalent to Neiman Marcus. Here were the bright moments: 1. Hermes Un Jardin Sur La Nil would make the perfect everyday summer splash, and is going straight onto my wishlist. It's citrusy and green, but with ever-so-slightly unexpected notes: green mango (milky and crisp, more sour than sweet), grapefruit, and lotus. There's something slightly bitter and unripe about the scent that I like, though I don't think "Egypt" at all. It's preppy, not exotic. 2. NARS Spring 2007: Both Habenera and Sugarland are gorgeous. I'm not sure I would personally get much use out of Sugarland, but Habenera, in the vein of many NARS duos, I simply want, want, want. 3. Sisley and Stella McCartney CARE samples. I've only tried the Botanical Intensive Day Cream (wanted to try the night version, but they were out) thus far, and it is certainly intense: aromatic herbal scent, a sticky texture that's hard to spread but sinks in quickly, bright, radiant skin (very quick results). But hardly justifies the $300 price tag, I think. I'm excited to try the Stella McCartney skincare, though. 4. Giorgio Armani Armanisilk Lipstick #46, a bright raspberry-red in the fabulous Armanisilk formula, may just be my perfect red lipstick. A blood red is a standard necessity, but there's something about the raspberry red that is really unusual but classic at the same time. And dark moments: 1. Forgot to bring blush. Can't live without blush! 2. Lost NARS Gothika Lip Gloss, my absolute favorite lipcolor. Isn't that a bummer? Labels: beauty notes, giorgio armani, hermes, nars, perfume, sisley, skin, stella mccartney
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