Notes from the Editors of The Lipstick Page Forums: A Dedication to the Art of Beauty and Fashion.

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On This Page
· LP's Cream of the Crop 2008: Skin
· The Beauty Primer: Skin
· The Weekend Blogger: Bit of hauling
· The Weekend Blogger: Mixed bag
· Beauty Notes: Skincare Thoughts
· Just Notes: The Weekend Blogger
· Beauty Notes: Santaverde Aloe Vera Sunscreen Emulsion SPF 18
· Beauty Notes: Primavera Moisturizers Reviews
· Beauty Notes: Desert Island Stash (part 1)
· Beauty Notes: Primavera Gentle Cleansing Fluid Review
· Beauty Notes: Dr. Hauschka Rose Day Cream Light Review
· Beauty Notes: Skincare thoughts
· Beauty Notes: Finetuning Skincare...
· Beauty Notes: Day Two of Dr. Hauschka Cleansing Milk
· Beauty Notes: Update on TESS Skincare
· Beauty Notes: A Drop of Rain in the Desert
· Beauty Notes: What I've been into, lately #2
· Beauty Notebook JANUARY 2008: Malin + Goetz
· Beauty Notes: The Ultimate Skincare Routine
· Beauty Notes: Color Theory (part 1)
· Beauty Notes: "Surviving the Shows"
· Beauty Notes: Bisous de Provence Wild Rose Triple Milled Soap
· Beauty Notes: Chanel Beauté Initiale review
· Beauty Notes: this 'n' that
· Day Two of Dr. Hauschka Cleansing Cream
· Beauty Notes: A Permanent Skincare Routine?
· Beauty Notes: I think I have summer skincare routine down
· Beauty Notes: TESS skincare
· Beauty Notes: The Minimalist Skin Care
· Exfoliating skin care video by RiceBunny
· LP's Cream of the Crop: Skin
· Beauty Notes: The products, themselves
· Beauty Notes: Putting it all together
· Beauty Notes: Know thy skin
· Beauty Notes: July 4, 2007
· Beauty Notes (6.25.07)
· Side note about biotin supplement
· Where to buy Anthelios?
· Rambles (5.31.07)
· Decleor Aromaessence Rose D'Orient
· Price vs. value
· Joining the work force...
· The Perfect Stash: Part 1 (skin)
· Haul from France...
· Spring Break!
· Cosmetics ennui...
· A handful of reviews from Spalook.com: Part 1
· Favorite "budget" beauty products
· Beauty Scrapbook JANUARY 2007: Winter Blues
· Latest sulfate-free shampoo venture; cheap beauty products in general
· 2006, the year in beauty, and plans for 2007
· Beauty breakthroughs
· Adult acne rambling...
· Beauty Notes: Something new I picked up, out of curiosity...
· Beauty Notes: A phenomenological analysis of sensitive skin...
· Beauty Notes: Dr. Hauschka
· Beauty Notes: The Importance of Skin
· Beauty Notes: Skin Care Guide

Comments
· June 29, 2008 12:08 AM by Blogger Dain
· June 29, 2008 2:20 PM by Blogger Colleen Shirazi
· June 22, 2008 8:38 PM by Blogger Dain
· May 24, 2008 1:31 PM by Blogger Dain
· May 24, 2008 4:11 PM by Blogger Colleen Shirazi
· May 25, 2008 5:45 PM by Blogger Joy Rothke
· May 26, 2008 3:42 AM by Blogger Dain
· May 26, 2008 3:57 PM by Blogger Colleen Shirazi
· March 27, 2008 7:19 PM by Blogger Colleen Shirazi
· March 9, 2008 12:53 AM by Blogger ~Joy~
· March 9, 2008 4:36 AM by Blogger Dain
· March 4, 2008 10:46 AM by Blogger ~Joy~
· March 4, 2008 3:39 PM by Blogger Dain
· March 2, 2008 5:11 PM by Blogger Dain
· February 17, 2008 9:53 PM by Blogger Colleen Shirazi
· February 21, 2008 10:34 AM by Blogger Dain
· February 5, 2008 4:51 PM by Blogger Dain
· February 6, 2008 12:27 AM by Blogger Dain
· February 7, 2008 1:49 AM by Blogger Colleen Shirazi
· February 7, 2008 12:05 PM by Blogger Colleen Shirazi
· February 7, 2008 7:16 PM by Blogger Dain
· February 7, 2008 7:47 PM by Blogger Colleen Shirazi
· January 18, 2008 4:31 PM by Blogger Dain
· January 18, 2008 4:57 PM by Blogger Colleen Shirazi
· January 18, 2008 8:54 PM by Blogger Dain
· January 19, 2008 3:28 PM by Blogger Dain
· January 20, 2008 1:53 PM by Blogger Colleen Shirazi
· December 15, 2007 3:38 PM by Blogger Colleen Shirazi
· December 15, 2007 6:32 PM by Blogger Dain
· December 15, 2007 11:28 PM by Blogger Colleen Shirazi
· November 3, 2007 3:57 PM by Blogger Jenny B
· November 3, 2007 4:26 PM by Blogger Dain
· November 3, 2007 4:58 PM by Blogger Colleen Shirazi
· November 3, 2007 5:27 PM by Blogger Colleen Shirazi
· November 3, 2007 7:42 PM by Blogger Audrey_H
· November 3, 2007 8:21 PM by Blogger Dain
· November 1, 2007 12:30 PM by Blogger Colleen Shirazi
· November 1, 2007 3:07 PM by Blogger Dain
· November 1, 2007 6:38 PM by Blogger Colleen Shirazi
· November 4, 2007 3:10 AM by Blogger Dain
· September 24, 2007 1:05 PM by Blogger Dain
· September 20, 2007 11:42 AM by Blogger Dain
· July 27, 2007 9:20 PM by Blogger cmm
· July 27, 2007 10:02 PM by Blogger Dain
· July 8, 2007 12:58 PM by Blogger Colleen Shirazi
· July 8, 2007 5:58 PM by Blogger Audrey_H
· July 8, 2007 6:10 PM by Blogger Dain
· July 8, 2007 7:19 PM by Blogger Colleen Shirazi
· July 9, 2007 9:19 PM by Blogger Colleen Shirazi
· July 5, 2007 1:45 AM by Blogger Colleen Shirazi
· July 5, 2007 1:56 AM by Blogger Dain
· July 5, 2007 2:32 AM by Blogger Colleen Shirazi
· July 5, 2007 5:21 AM by Blogger Dain
· June 13, 2007 8:55 PM by Blogger Dain
· June 14, 2007 9:21 PM by Blogger Colleen Shirazi
· June 1, 2007 7:21 PM by Blogger Colleen Shirazi
· June 1, 2007 9:35 PM by Blogger cmm
· June 1, 2007 11:35 PM by Blogger TheLipstickPageForums.com
· March 23, 2007 11:57 PM by Blogger Colleen Shirazi
· March 22, 2007 9:12 PM by Blogger Colleen Shirazi

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The Lipstick Page Forums Beauty & Fashion Blog


LP's Cream of the Crop 2008: Skin
Posted by Dain, Monday, July 07, 2008 12:01 AM (Eastern)

We at The Lipstick Page Forums believe in the supreme importance of skincare. We do not, however, advocate the tactics of the skincare industry: to prey upon insecurities over acne and aging by offering products that are either very expensive and ineffectual, or cheap and punishing. A good skincare routine should be as simple as possible—a gentle, effective cleanser, the right moisturizer for your skin type, some form of regular exfoliation, and broad-spectrum sun protection—with judicious treatments to handle more specific concerns like acne, hyperpigmentation, puffy eyes, and sensitivity. You may find our list quite plain, but it is our honest opinion that the best skincare routines never overload on products, consequently we cannot in good faith recommend any costly miracle anti-agers.

THE BASICS
cleansers For drier, sensitive skins, Cetaphil Gentle Skin Cleanser ($12) has stood by us through thick and thin, while Dr. Hauschka Cleansing Cream ($23.95) purifies oilier skin types without stripping.
moisturizers It may seem counterintuitive, but a couple drops of deliciously aromatic Dr. Hauschka Normalizing Day Oil ($38.95) is our preferred choice to balance and brighten oily skin. For most skin types—normal, combination, and dry—Embryolisse Lait-Crème Concentrée ($25) is the most brilliant moisturizer we've met: fast-absorbing yet intensely hydrating, and gentle enough even for the most sensitive of skins. And for skin that feels seriously abused, chapped and dehydrated beyond reason, the rich balm of Egyptian Magic Healing Cream ($34) provides intense therapy.
exfoliant Even skins that cannot tolerate the most innocent exfoliants will find salvation in Primavera Refining Exfoliating Cleanser ($42), a sugar-based surfactant and jojoba-bead scrub that polishes skin without a hint of irritation.
sunscreen Dermatologists recommend that we use copious amounts of sunscreen, but high prices tend to encourage a sparing application. You won't feel the need to hoard Olay Complete ($11), the sheer zinc oxide ensures great protection and the formula is light and pleasant, and it's available in fragrance free. If you're looking for serious protection, La Roche-Posay Anthelios XL Lait SPF 50+ ($39) can get rather greasy, but it's some heavy-duty sunscreen.

THE SPECIFICS
make up remover A water-soluble, oil-based cleanser like DHC Deep Cleansing Oil ($24) removes even waterproof makeup thoroughly and effectively, but without any harsh detergents. For oily skin, it may be all you need at night.
acne treatment We believe that chronic acne must be treated holistically, rather than blasted into oblivion by strong chemicals, but for the stray monster zit that demands emergency treatment, we recommend the one-two punch of a salicylic acid gel to disinfect and exfoliate, like Clinique Acne Solutions Spot Healing Gel ($13.50), layered with a dab of a clay-based mask to draw out the pus and oil, the drugstore favorite "Green Queen", Queen Helene Mint Julep ($4).
desensitizer Buttery smooth Jurlique Calendula Cream ($32) will calm rashes, heal acne and sunburn, and restore much needed moisture to frazzled skin. One word of warning: some people will react to the high concentration of calendula extract.
puffy eyes and dark circles Eye creams are laden with more hype than the greatest and newest pop stars, but Lab Series Age Rescue Eye Therapy ($26) effectively lightens, depuffs, and moisturizes with very little nonsense.
lip balm Dr. Hauschka ($14.50) makes the best lip balm: rich and protective without being waxy, but light enough to wear underneath your favorite lipstick, plus a mild rose scent that's strangely pleasing after a million minty things.

We've attempted to choose products that might please universally, but we recognize that skincare is very personal, and as strategic as any battle plan, and we've all got our own unique takes. Here are the keystones to the staffers' routines:
Colleen has had acne-prone skin since 1995, and oily skin for much of her life. She has found that most products targeted towards both issues tend to work at first and then stop working, or never work at all. The key is to use products that don't strip oil from your skin, and to be patient, as good skincare takes time to work. "Currently I use Dr. Hauschka Cleansing Milk ($33.95) at night, and a Salux Beauty Skin Cloth ($2.69), a textured nylon washcloth from Japan, in the morning, followed by tiny bit of Dr. Hauschka Cleansing Cream ($23.95)." Dain's dry and sensitive skin is largely well behaved, but it's an absolute saint with Jurlique Herbal Recovery Gel ($134). "I'm not sure what it does, exactly, but it's this antioxidant botanical cocktail that instantly brightens and somehow rebalances the skin. It provides the perfect summerweight hydration or boosts a more standard moisturizer for cooler months, and thanks to its peculiar magic, I haven't broken out or experienced the severe dehydration that afflicts me every winter." Joy has combination skin that's gotten a bit more temperamental as she's aged, and sometimes she has to deal with rosacea flares, but she rarely stays loyal to any particular brand, preferring to vary her routine with the seasons and the condition of her complexion. "One recent constant has been a Clarisonic ($195) for morning cleansing. It's pricey to be sure, but it gets the skin clean and smooth in a way that even the best exfoliants and masques can't achieve." Products-wise, she is a fan of Daybreak Farms Rhassoul Duo Daily Complexion Polish ($39.50), a unique combination of mineral rich rhassoul mud and a nourishing complexion bar to polish and purify the skin, and Dr. Hauschka Normalizing Day Oil ($38.95), "it's one I always return to."

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The Beauty Primer: Skin
Posted by Dain, Sunday, July 06, 2008 12:16 AM (Eastern)

How do I know what my skin type is?
Skin type generally signifies how much oil (sebum) your skin produces. There's oily skin, which is visibly shiny, and dry skin, which feels tight, uncomfortable, and is prone to dullness and flakes. Most people tend to have both dry and oily patches, which is known as combination skin. Oil production varies greatly with the weather, so you may find yourself with different skin types over the course of the year. The goal for basic skincare is to bring the skin to a healthy oil-balance, and even for oily skin, a little oil is good. It provides natural protection against environmental stresses and keeps the skin supple. Many people make the mistake of washing their skin with harsh detergents, which enters into a vicious cycle: a dehydrated top layer and overcompensation from oil glands, leading to clogged pores.

Technically, acne-prone, sensitive, and mature are not skin types, but specific conditions. We think you should choose your cleanser and moisturizer according to your skin type, keeping them as gentle and basic as possible, and supplement them with specific treatments: for example, an eye gel for puffiness, retinoids for their clinically proven efficacy against acne and photoaging, or a makeup remover for heavy, waterproof makeup. Not only are these more effective and concentrated, you can switch around different treatments as your skin demands.

What are exfoliants?
The skin naturally sheds the top layer of dead skin, while new cells push from underneath, a process that takes at least four weeks from bottom to top. The rate slows down as you age, so when dead skin cells accumulate, the skin looks dull and flakey (if dehydrated) or they can stick together and lead to clogged pores (from excess oil). We suggest regular exfoliation in addition to the basic routine of cleansing and moisturizing, which comes in two forms, physical or chemical. Physical exfoliants include: face brushes, scrubs (sometimes medicated) with particles (crushed apricot kernels, almond meal, jojoba beads, marble powder, rice bran, sugar, and salt are all well-known examples) suspended in a creamy or foamy base, and simple washcloths. Chemical exfoliants include: vitamin C, alpha hydroxies like lactic acid and glycolic acid, beta hydroxies like salicylic acid, and certain natural enzymes such as pineapple extract.

If you're just starting out, we recommend a jojoba-bead based scrub, which is easy to use and without any jagged corners that will tear at the skin, and they're biodegradable unlike synthetic beads. From there, you may find you prefer a does-it-all balm cleanser, massaged into the skin for complete and utter makeup removal, and removed with a hot cloth—gentle enough for dry skin and oilier skin types won't even need a moisturizer. Or you may prefer a salicylic acid gel, to disinfect acne and open up clogged pores. Or you may prefer an almond-meal based cleanser, not to scrub, but to lift dead skin. Or maybe you'd prefer a vitamin c serum for its antioxidant properties, and to brighten dull skin and lighten discolorations. Whatever ends up working for you, you'll notice a difference in the overall health of your skin with regular exfoliation.

How do I get rid of acne!?
It depends largely on the kind of acne. Almost everyone gets blackheads, which are pores clogged with dead skin and oil. The dark color is from oxidation of the oils, not dirt. As far as we know, the only remedy for blackheads is physical extraction, though regular exfoliation helps. If blackheads are a serious concern, we suggest booking a facial. Whiteheads are also clogged pores, but they are not open to the air. When either a blackhead or whitehead becomes infected with the P. acnes bacteria, you have true pimples: red and inflamed, sometimes filled with pus, and the very worst, cysts. This kind of acne must be treated holistically, it is often due to an imbalance of hormones or bad hygiene. Keep your skin clean, free from heavy makeup and oils, and use gentle products that disinfect, exfoliate, and balance sebum production.

What should I do about flakey, dry skin?
Use a very, very gentle cleanser, and apply two layers of moisturizer—two layers work better than one thick layer. The first should penetrate the skin, a oil-in-water emulsion or hydrating serum is best. The second should be creamy and protective, a traditional water-in-oil face cream. You may additionally layer on a rich, protective balm on top if the skin is very seriously chapped. Face oils and soft scrubs will work best against flakes, but be gentle.

How do I know if I have sensitive skin?
Many people wrongly categorize themselves as sensitive, but technically, sensitive skin is highly reactive to physical abrasion or strong chemicals, resulting in contact dermatitis. It also rashes out in the presence of certain irritants, calendula, for example. Aloe vera, hydrocortisone, and shea butter work very well at counteracting sensitivities. Rosacea on the other hand, is a clinical condition typified by enlarged and inflamed blood vessels and red pustules that may be confused with acne. You should be very careful with rosacea, and invest in the best sun protection you can get your hands on, and for treatment we recommend going to see the dermatologist if the problem is persistent.

In what order should I apply skincare?
Generally, anything with active ingredients that treat the skin, such serums or concentrates, should have first contact with the skin for the best results. You can layer on a plain moisturizer next, and if it's daytime, the sunscreen should always go last, especially if they are physical blocks, because they create a protective barrier on the skin.

Are botanicals really effective?
We think so. Very few women need serious treatments, and overall the best results are the ones that last, which very miracle products can provide. For example, retinoids have been clinically proven as effective against acne and aging, but they are very harsh on most skin types. Many women are better off choosing products with more subtle effects, those that work with the skin rather than against it. Additionally, we find that organic brands are also the more socially and ecologically conscientious, from fair labor laws to products made with the utmost care. Given the organic nature of the skin, it's nice to know that your products have a conscience. All the same, botanicals have drawbacks: they can be heavy and unctuous, some ingredients can actually cause a rash, and overall, organic products tend to be more expensive.

How do I get perfect skin?
You've got to be realistic about what results are achievable. Genetics takes the lion's share of blame, but avoiding the sun, drinking lots of water, and eating well all contribute to better skin. Gentle but effective products are key, combined with the patience to stick to your regime. It's called skin care, after all. Treat your skin as you would you heart or your liver—after all, it's the largest organ of the human body.

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The Weekend Blogger: Bit of hauling
Posted by Colleen Shirazi, Saturday, June 28, 2008 11:47 PM (Eastern)

I shop rather strategically now; long gone are the days of carefree middle-class browsing. An item is either astronomically expensive, requiring months, even years, of planning to acquire, or else it tends to be junk, worth less than the space it occupies. It's truly an art to figure out where to shop, and to emerge with something of value, without blowing half a week's paycheck over it.

This time I went to a b & m bead shop, something I don't do often anymore. But sometimes it's worth the markup to be able to choose individual beads, particularly for earrings. I got some carnelian and some jade beads. I had this odd impulse to make red earrings, and I've wanted for some time to use green jade for something.

On to our local health food store, where I repurchased Dr. Hauschka Cleansing Cream. Normally the price would have been a tad appalling, but I tried this out first as a sample, loved it, bought a full sized tube, found it lasted five months and noticeably improved my acne-prone skin. I felt it was a good purchase.

On a bit of an impulse, I also bought a Zia pressed powder compact. I'm almost out of my traditional MAC Blot pressed, and was planning on the trek out to the MAC counter to repurchase it, but if this stuff works, I'd rather buy it instead. I've long fallen out of love with MAC in general, so the Back to MAC isn't much of an incentive to me anymore, plus the customer service at our local MAC Counter isn't much of an encouragement to go there. The first two ingredients listed are mica and cornstarch. I've used Zia liquid foundation for years, to make tinted sunscreen, so I'm fairly optimistic about the powder prospect.

Finally, I picked up Avalon Organics Lavender shampoo, since I had run out of their Lemon Clarifying one. The Lavender is more moisturizing, but then I often use two shampoos anyway--a little tea tree oil shampoo on my scalp (Giovanni, but I'm thinking of trying the Paul Mitchell one when that runs out), and a different one on the rest of my hair (it's not as complicated as it sounds, just slap on a bit of one and a bit of the other, and lather).

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June 29, 2008 12:08 AM, Blogger Dain said...

I want to try those Avalon Organics now. I really need to get myself to a Whole Foods soon, and root around the products section.

 
June 29, 2008 2:20 PM, Blogger Colleen Shirazi said...

There's a lot of bath & body at health food stores...and some of it is really good. Some of it is bad--Jason shampoos are terrible, imo, and Kiss My Face is only eh.

Avalon, Alba Hawaiian, Giovanni, Nature's Gate Organics...all good. There's one I always look at called Desert Essence. It costs a bit more but it smells stupendous.

I rotate shampoos, since I wash my hair every day. Otherwise there's no way to prevent buildup. I like to have three shampoos in the shower at a given time, and two conditioners. :D

 
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The Weekend Blogger: Mixed bag
Posted by Colleen Shirazi, Sunday, June 22, 2008 2:38 AM (Eastern)


A photo tour of Iran...the music is killer

I suspect I have nothing cohesive to say, so have elected to use a bullet list.

  • Skin. Finally used the last squeeze of Dr. Hauschka's Cleansing Cream. The tube lasted about five months, used once per day (I use the Cleansing Milk at night). I tried going without it for several days to see what would happen, and have decided my skin was better off with it. I was going to repurchase it today, then got caught up finishing some earrings I'd been fiddling around with for weeks, so I'll probably shoot for tomorrow, but it's a keeper.

  • Clothes. Here's a tip I got from the administrative assistant at my job. You can get rid of static cling by spinning your clothes in the dryer--no heat--with a dryer sheet. These are clothes you have to line dry, so line-dry them first, but it really does work.

    While I was at it, I tossed in some clothes I'd normally have to iron. If they're not super wrinkly, you may not need to iron them.

  • Perfume. Debating between Patou's Joy and Sublime as my next perfume (after I've used up Etro's Heliotrope). I've been wearing Sublime as a layer...it's a tad too sweet worn alone, but so what, so is Montale's Aoud Blossom. It's a sentimental choice, as would be Joy, but Sublime is the more significant of the two to me.

    Sublime is about Washington State in the early 1990's, when Kurt Cobain was still alive, and Nordstrom still had superior customer service (okay, they probably still do in Washington State, but it's lousy here). I was a starving student and loved passing by the perfume counter at Nordies, and this was one of the fragrances I coveted most.

  • Shoes. I've been okay with the shoes I got. They're not my dream shoes, which would be Cydwoq, Jim Barnier or Taryn Rose (in that order). Something more beautiful, more durable.

    I'm not really against high heels, I just don't wear them. I can see the point; they are a sculpture. For something like a party or occasion, I would consider wearing them...I had some when I was fifteen or so, that were genuine stiletto heels (not super high, but actual heel-heels).

    My gripe is finding shoes that look the way I want them to look, yet allow me to walk eight city blocks in half an hour, or break into a run to catch a bus, and the like. I hate feeling constrained in shoes. In that regard, the ones I have are not it either. "It" starts at $300, so, my shoes should last until I feel like paying that much. :D

    I can admit I like them all the same. The strappy ones are good for hot weather; your feet don't get sweaty. I'm still stretching out the pump toeboxes, off and on, when I have nothing better to do.

  • Jewelry. I've made some good earrings lately. I keep hoping to take pictures, but jewelry is one of the hardest things to photograph. You'd need a small area reserved just for taking pictures of it, or a whole lotta time.

    I can describe them, but, eh. One is three lengths of oxidized textured silver chain, with the shortest length on the outside and the longest on the inside. I hung three colors of tourmaline faceted "hearts" (the "pear" is the flat teardrop shape, while the "heart" is the fat bottomed flat teardrop)--deep pink, green, and lavender, one at the end of each chain.

    The next was my first attempt at a theme: a simulation of falling rain. So I used lengths of silver flat cable chain (the flat surfaces catch the light when they move), small green amethyst faceted pears, and small aquamarine faceted drops. (It's funny, you always think to buy the bigger stones, but earrings often require small ones).

    The third pair I finished today. Were they a pain to make! I'm already planning to solder soon...I've heard you can buy a soldering iron at the dollar shop; the real cost is the solder and flux, both of which I now own.

    These are hammered golden hoops, and I wanted to hang a bar across the center. Hanging the bar is relatively easy, but without soldering, you have to devise a means of keeping the bar stable. Squashing or hammering the bar on the hoop doesn't do it.

    I came up with two ideas. One is to use a crimp bead--a tiny round seamless metal bead--you thread two beads on the hoop when you're making it. You use crimping pliers (as they sound, special pliers to neatly press and fold the crimps) to crimp a bead under each end of your horizontal bar. I've done this with crimp tubes because I had no crimp beads on hand, and it works well, but the crimp beads would look nicer than the tubes.

    The other involves wrapping fine-gauge wire on the sides of the hoops above either end of the horizontal bar. The idea is to block either end of the bar from moving up the side of the hoop. This also works, and the fineness of the wire makes it unobtrusive.

    Okay...so on each horizontal bar, I have a metal fringe, made of pieces of wire...you make a loop on one end of each piece of wire, hammer out the other end flat, then file the edges of the hammered end to make them smooth and rounded.

    I'm trying out some wire-intensive ideas, because I'm thinking of getting karat gold wire. You have to be sure of your design because you can't make mistakes with the spendy stuff. Not sure if this design is "karat-worthy" yet. It's nice...the swinging golden fringe sparkles like fanciful sun rays. But the construction turned out to be more involved than I'd thought. I like the fringe and hoop; perhaps I could come up with a simpler version, or even just start out with a plain heavy hammered hoop.

  • Reading. Technical manuals, such as "Lasso for Dummies" (just kidding, I think the only book written on Lasso is the manual the Lasso people publish). Lasso is a scripting language. I don't think I'll ever read anything but technical manuals until Dain publishes her book, then I'll be happy to read that. I haven't heard of anything tempting to read lately, at any rate.

Have a good one!

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June 22, 2008 8:38 PM, Blogger Dain said...

That's sweet. I haven't really started work on it yet, though. Shhhh. The blogging gets in the way, so I guess I'll just have to stop once we do CoC.

That video's pretty awesome. Iran seems sad, though.

 
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Beauty Notes: Skincare Thoughts
Posted by Dain, Wednesday, May 28, 2008 7:34 AM (Eastern)

The tactics of the skincare industry can sometimes border on organized crime (ever meet its associates, acne and aging?), but in truth skincare isn't that complicated. In fact, if you overload on products, you skin may react adversely: chemicals may burn, over-cleansing may result in hyperactive oil glands, botanicals may cause a rash, rich emollients may break you out. Simplicity is best. It takes at least a month ascertain whether a product is going to work for you (though it takes considerably less time to find that it doesn't work for you), so patience is key, as is an acceptance of your skin's limitations: miracles are for saints, not skincare. You don't want to correct your skin, but normalize it, so that it can take care of itself.

For a year now, I've been close to the ultimate routine, just tweaking it. I've discovered a holy grail in Jurlique Herbal Recovery Gel ($144 for 3.4 oz), an antioxidant cocktail that hydrates, tones, and treats all at once with an ultra-pure blend of organic botanicals with a lovely scent. It's expensive and I'm not really sure how it works, but it does make my skin look all radiant and splendid. I've tried many, from La Prairie to Clean & Clear, but I've liked Embryolisse Lait Crème Concentré ($25) best thus far: absorbs quickly, gentle and hydrating and the price is right. I'm still open though, and I'm currently loving Santaverde Aloe Vera Medium Cream ($59). In the summer, the Jurlique is just the right weight, and in the winter, it adds a boost of moisture underneath a simple moisturizer (two light layers hydrate better than one heavy one).

I like to keep my cleansers basic, preferably gentle and non-foaming like Cetaphil ($12), to which I always seem to return, even when I foray into something as nice as Primavera Gentle Cleansing Fluid (too expensive and dries out my skin). I also reasoned that an eye makeup remover would be useful, because then I wouldn't need to rub at delicate skin, but I haven't really touched my tester of Lancôme Bi-Facil ($26) (though I've worn very little makeup of late). For an occasional pick me up, I love Refining Exfoliating Cleanser ($42), the rare exfoliant that does not burn nor abrade my skin. It now comes in double the size for $60, which should last me a whole year.

It's a quick and easy routine, a couple of basics for cleansing and moisturizing and a couple of botanical-based performers that subtly refine the skin. It's all my skin requires. I should add that I have my skin is sensitive, and ranges from normal in the summer and dry in the winter, and I rarely break out.

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Just Notes: The Weekend Blogger
Posted by Colleen Shirazi, Saturday, May 24, 2008 1:09 PM (Eastern)

shoesContemplating trying my hand at a regular feature, titled--surprise!--"The Weekend Blogger." But let's see if I can produce something intelligible on a weekly basis, in the first place.

Shoes. I finally got some shoes, having no choice in the matter: my beloved Cole Haan woven shoes, which I've worn for...ten years? more, no doubt...finally commenced to spring a leak. The uppers are entirely woven, so it would be possible to mend them with E-6000 (or GS Hypo Cement, haven't worked out which would be better), and I haven't actually thrown them away. It would require time and patience to do the repair, and the shoes would need to dry the full 24 hours...I didn't have another pair of shoes on hand, so elected to shelve the project for now and just get some new shoes.

It's impossible to replace the Cole Haans. New Cole Haans, which don't seem nearly as nice as old Cole Haans, are in the nefarious $300 range, at which decent shoes begin these days. I realize our economy is a comedy, and our dollar is in the toilet, but if I wanted to pay $300 for shoes, I would buy U.S. made Cydwoqs--which I am still planning to do, as my next shoe purchase, along with Joy perfume and a Nars eyeshadow (single or duo); something quite neutral.

I ended up with the working-girl's kit--you get some reasonably priced leather shoes, and you stretch them with one of those wooden shoe forms. You don't need a specific stretching device; you can use a plain old wooden form (doesn't have to be your size either). You just have to be careful not to damage the shoes or over-stretch them.

Along with this, Foot Petals...I don't need them for one of the pairs I bought, but the other pair definitely need padding in the heel. I turned down numerous Dr. Scholls made-in-China heel pads because I wanted to try Foot Petals, but they're absurdly hard to find, particularly the heel pads. I found some of the ball-of-foot pads at Shoe Pavilion...on a side note, our local Shoe Pavilion has became a small Indian market, with inexpensive Indian tops and dresses...interesting...hmmm...I'm determined to try authentic Foot Petals, but I'm hoping to find them locally.

So I've been wearing these pre-stretched shoes, and looking for Foot Petals so I can wear the other pair. I'll have to admit they don't have the same pizazz as my old Cole Haans, but they'll do for now, and I've made at least the first pair ridiculously comfortable (they have a small wedge heel).

Skincare. Thinking of ditching Dr. Hauschka Cleansing Cream once it's used up. Its chief attraction was its exfoliating property, but the Salux Beauty Skin Cloth I've been employing is far superior at that. The Cleansing Cream is yet great as a moisturizing cleanser for oily skin, but then their Cleansing Milk is fine for that, and more economical. What sucks is the Cleansing Milk is bottled in glass, rendering it useless for the shower. I suppose I'll think of something when the time comes.

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May 24, 2008 1:31 PM, Blogger Dain said...

That's a very sensible plan. I take a very long time to make any expensive purchases myself, and you can get a cheap pair for the mean time. I've had good luck with Banana Republic. They're nicely styled and sturdily made for the price. I have a pair of espadrilles that I got for $68 that are still going very strong, and I've worn them everywhere.

Err... or if I misunderstood you, perhaps you got some shoes already.

I've been curious about Foot Petals too. If you get them, please let us know how they work out. I have a couple pairs of shoes that might need them.

Yeah, I definitely agree, you probably don't need both exfoliators. The appeal of the Dr. Hauschka is that it exfoliates without abrading, but if you don't mind rubbing away at your skin, then it doesn't really matter, right? I think it's a good plan. And you could also always move the cleansing milk into a plastic bottle. I wonder how you'd feel about the Eve Lom balm cleanser phenomenon (obviously, there are cheaper options): just one product to cleanse, exfoliate, and moisturize?

 
May 24, 2008 4:11 PM, Blogger Colleen Shirazi said...

Hehe, this gets more interesting...I did some calling around about Foot Petals. One place in Berkeley told me they don't recommend back-of-the-heel pads...what they do, is give you a pad to put in the toe of your shoe. The idea is if the heel is loose, it's because the shoe is big, and the toe-pad should push your foot back far enough to make the heel fit.

So, I'm going to check that out today. Yup, I got some shoes. They are the ones in the pic, I just photoshopped some commercial shoe images together.

I've seen the ball-of-foot 'Petals around a lot, wondering how good they are for high heels. The shoes I got don't need padding there...they had some nice-looking flats, but I turned them down for that reason. Now I'm wondering how good the 'Petals technology is...some people swear by them, as a means of turning a cheap shoe into an expensive one. lol

That Salux cloth is interesting, from an engineering point of view. You don't feel as if you're scrubbing...and you're not scrubbing...yet, it lifts off what feels like years' worth of dead skin. It's eerie. I'm not sure I need a cleanser at all...thinking of trying the cloth with a mild body wash, like the Jason one.

 
May 25, 2008 5:45 PM, Blogger Joy Rothke said...

I'm staying loyal to Dr. H! I think the cleansing cream does more than exfoliate, and is exceptionally good at gently drawing gunk out of one's pores. I'm also having good luck with rhassoul clay soap, which I'll be writing about. [Colleen: I can send you a sample.]

Some of the ingredients in Eve Lom cleanser:

paraffinum liquidum (mineral oil), cetearyl alcohol, peg-30 lanolin, bis-diglyceryl polyacyladipate-2, aluminum stearate, theobroma cacao (cocoa butter), peg-75 lanolin, chamomilla recutita (chamomile oil), eugenia caryophyllus (clove oil), eucalyptus globulus (eucalyptus oil), humulus lupulus (hops oil), phenoxyethanol, methylparaben, butylparaben, ethylparaben, propylparaben, isobutylparaben, p-chloro-m-cresol, eugenol, isoeugenol

are almost as appalling as its price [GBP 48 for 100 ml]. I wouldn't touch this stuff with a 10-foot pole.

 
May 26, 2008 3:42 AM, Blogger Dain said...

I don't mean Eve Lom exactly, I just thought Colleen may like the idea because it's got a similar feel to the cleansing milk and may work well in conjunction with her Salux cloth. I was really thinking of the LUSH Ultrabland, which I think is a great product, except for the dreaded peanut oil that clogs my pores.

 
May 26, 2008 3:57 PM, Blogger Colleen Shirazi said...

Dain: Right now I'm using soap with the Salux cloth. I got some Canus goat milk soap on sale, so I've been using that. (It smells really good btw, it's the marigold extract one.)

After I do that, I use the Cleansing Cream...mostly because I feel I should use it up, and also because it is handily moisturizing. That's why I was thinking the Cleansing Milk would do just as well, but I haven't thought of using it with the cloth, which actually makes more sense.

Joy: Thanks for the offer. Not sure what I'm going to do yet... I'll look forward to your writing about rhassoul clay soap (which admittedly I've never heard of). It sounds Arabic?

I've found the Hauschka Cleansing Milk good...I use it at night, and it seems to last well. I might just port some to a plastic bottle and see how that flies.

Their lipstick is good too, it is up there with Chanel.

 
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Beauty Notes: Santaverde Aloe Vera Sunscreen Emulsion SPF 18
Posted by Dain, Thursday, March 27, 2008 3:38 PM (Eastern)


Ok, so I have a dirty little secret: I don't use sunscreen. The slimy texture of it, and the way it always smells like a forgotten beach towel rediscovered in November. Yes, the dermatologists and the harridans in beauty magazines grate on about the deep and profound necessity of sun protection... but still it's like spreading Elmer's glue on my face. Besides, I'm essentially nocturnal.

Saffron Rouge sells magical products, truly. Santaverde is yet another hyper-botanical line I had never even heard of, using aloe vera instead of water as the base for every product, and I quote: "To ensure that the Aloe used is as fresh and pure as possible, Santaverde grows its very own certified organic Aloe Vera on their plantation located in the southern tip of Spain. Each Aloe leaf is hand-selected to ensure the plant is in pristine condition. The fresh leaves are then hand-processed and carefully evaluated for quality and pureness. The result is flawless raw material and active nutrients for each one of their products." I picked up a sample (Saffron Rouge also adds free samples with your order) of their sunscreen in idle curiosity, but whatever, everyone's got their little angle, right?

I mean, it's $69, but it's fantastic: smooth and fragrant as milk sprinkled with fairy dust, extremely comfortable and lightweight to wear. Flawless aloe vera from Spain? Yes, with titanium dioxide, jojoba oil, squalane, shea butter, macadamia oil, kukuinut oil, and white lily extract (but it's not oily or heavy). Where's my credit card?*

* Just kidding. No more spending for now.

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March 27, 2008 7:19 PM, Blogger Colleen Shirazi said...

In California, you don't have a choice about sunscreen. When I first came out here, I just fried...it was hard to find facial sunscreens in those days. Ah, but the prices now. rolls eyes

 
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Beauty Notes: Primavera Moisturizers Reviews
Posted by Dain, Sunday, March 23, 2008 1:07 PM (Eastern)

I took some time to evaluate the performance of the Primavera moisturizers. It's easier to test from lightest to heaviest, and the prices rise accordingly. I've never seen anyone talk about this line, and it's only available in the US through Saffron Rouge, but I can honestly say that these products are the best I've ever seen, and that is really saying a lot. Every cent is worth it, if you can find the right product for you, it's the highest quality, 100% biodynamic organic materials (Demeter certification). However, none of them really suit me.

The first up was the Protective Moisture Milk ($39.95), from their lower-priced Aroma Care line.
Though the name may imply that this is a rich, unctuous moisturizer, it is actually pleasantly lightweight milk, best suited for oilier skins (but perhaps not very oily). It does contain oils, but I rather think that a little bit of oil is beneficial for balancing the skin, and in any case it's just jojoba and sweet almond, which are known not to aggravate most acne-prone skin. It has a wonderful lime-osmanthus aroma, and plenty of antioxidants to nurture your skin, including cranberry extract and cassis seed oil.

Next, we have the Hydrating Face Cream ($40), from the Natural Balance line, and has the same sugar-verbena-floral scent as the cleansers and every other moisturizer reviewed here.
This is a light-textured, mediumweight cream best suited for normal/combination skin, or slightly dry or oily skin. The base is water, jojoba and sweet almond oil, glycerin, and shea butter, so it has nutritive properties. Nevertheless, it absorbs very readily (as fast as Embryolisse) and would work well as a day cream under makeup. It is also dosed with Primavera's "100% organic Re-Cell Complex", a mix of the highly antioxidant oils of pomegranate, grape seed, and rose hip, which is used consistently throughout the Natural Balance line. If you are truly dry, keep moving, this is best applied lightly, and can feel a little sticky if you add too much.

Now the Nourishing Face Cream ($50).
When a skincare product hits $50 and beyond, it must be something extraordinary. Beyond that, you tend to pay for hype. This has a smooth, buttery texture from high concentrations of sweet almond oil, pomegranate seed oil, grape seed oil, shea butter, avocado oil, wheat germ oil, cacao butter, jojoba oil, sallow thorn oil (also known as sea buckthorn oil), and rose hip oil. There are also plantain, Iceland moss, willowbark extracts, and a small amount of plant alcohols and lactic acid. Though water is the primary ingredient, you can see that this is really a blend of the finest quality plant oils, the most antioxidant-rich and nutritive, whipped into a cosmetically elegant cream. I was initially sparing with my deluxe mini, and found it slightly disappointing. A more generous application (about pea size) does wonders. It penetrates deep into my dry, sensitive skin, and leaves it soothed and hydrated and soft as the proverbial baby's bottom. It also doubles as eye cream. Still, I get the feeling this is clogging my pores.

Now for the "cult" product, the Ultra-Rich Energizing Seed Oil Capsules ($80).
After a brief period of contemplation, I decided it was not for me. Don't let the jar fool you, inside are 30 capsules of pure oil, the freshest, purest, finest, richest, most antioxidant oils nature has to offer. Twist of the end, and what's inside is simple: jojoba oil, grape seed oil, pomegranate seed oil, rose hip seed oil, parfum (a mix of essential oils), sallow thorn (sea buckthorn) oil, carrot seed oil, and vitamin E as a preservative. So why so expensive, and why the extravagant packaging? Most skincare brands tend to use mineral or inexpensive plant oils. By contrast, jojoba and rose hip oils are approximately $2/oz, sea buckthorn, $8/oz, pomegranate, $9 oz (these are all organic prices). And many oils are unstable, so they go bad, very quickly; hence the capsules. It's not exactly anti-aging, but given the trouble that they go to give you best antioxidant oils in their most potent form, I'd say that this is targeted at mature skin for best results. I have found a couple drops are entirely sufficient, and one capsule lasts several days, and the silky, fast-absorbing oil shouldn't trouble oily skin types. But this is very much an overdose for my skin, as I'm barely at the "preventive" stage as yet, and there is really nothing to restore. If I'm using it simply for its moisturizing properties, I can save myself some money and quite a bit of hassle and get myself a regular cream.

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Beauty Notes: Desert Island Stash (part 1)
Posted by Dain, Saturday, March 08, 2008 6:46 PM (Eastern)

In the days of yore when only some people (nerds) used the internet, there was this frequent poll that would surface now and again on the beauty boards: Desert Island Picks, top ten essential products. It should come as no surprise to you that I especially delighted in these polls, the kernel for what would later become minimalism. Several years later, this is perhaps as concrete a guide to a minimalist stash as I can command. 'Ware, in the true idiom of Desert Island, I will spare the corporate brainwashing (I'm not selling anything, after all), and stick to bare necessities*.

La Perla spring 2008 ad. My first reaction
when I saw this: what's in those bottles?

I could never live on ten products alone, so I've split it into grooming and decorative cosmetics. To start off with, skin and hair.
                  If you already have good skin, here is all you need:
  1. a gentle, effective cleanser
    It should rinse off cleanly, removing dirt, oil, and makeup (the effective part), but without leaving an oily film, or alternatively, stripping (the gentle part). Additionally, if it exfoliates a little, so much the better.

  2. a no-frills, penetrating but fast-absorbing moisturizer
    The plainer the better; the instinct for miracle creams is well mined by the industry, but they are absolutely nonsensical. La Mer, in fact, is quite a heavy but plain moisturizer (in spite of what they say about it). Unless you have very oily or very dry skin, a good moisturizer should not sit atop the skin like an occlusive layer (