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· Addendum...
· Now, I thought Kate Moss was a fashion icon too...
· Disgusted.
· Resort: Part 1
· Thanksgiving...
· And that, by the way...
· Trends! Honestly...
· Top #2
· Bauble o' the month...
· Found! Banana Republic Wool Shawl Collar Cardigan $108
· Updated thoughts and thoughtful updates
· Staying ahead of the pack...

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· 1:43 AM by Blogger Colleen Shirazi
· 2:02 AM by Blogger Colleen Shirazi
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· 1:43 AM by Blogger Colleen Shirazi
· 4:44 PM by Blogger Dain
· 1:40 AM by Blogger Colleen Shirazi



 
The Lipstick Page Forums Fashion Blog: November 2006


Addendum...
Posted by Dain, Sunday, November 26, 2006 7:19 PM (Eastern)

I actually have nothing against coke and coke addicts. But I think the cult of personality that has accumulated around Kate Moss is starting to... it's ridiculous. Rescind my membership to the Kate Moss fan club.

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Now, I thought Kate Moss was a fashion icon too...
Posted by Dain, 6:44 PM (Eastern)

But this is ridiculous. I don't care if she's too cool to "give a fuck", I don't care if this is "fashion"... this is some tiny, coked out woman jumping around with her top off. That is not an intelligent lifestyle choice.

What are we celebrating here? Ignorance? Lack of conscience? Cool.

And as for her being a style setter? For God's sake, she's responsible for SKINNY jeans, wellies as everyday wear, and LEGGINGS. The woman clearly inspires trends. That is a given. But that does not mean these look good—on anyone but her.

Oh, what does it matter?

They're going to remember her as a post-millenial Marilyn Munroe. Except that one was celebrated for her figure, her smile, and her seductive sweetness, while the other is celebrated for possessing... the exact opposites. Lookswise, they haven't much in common, except for a carefully trimmed coif of blonde hair and a predilection for animal prints. Oh, and they look out at you with half-closed eyes. Marilyn, I think, is trying to express lust, and Moss? Dare I say it? Her eyes are half-closed from too much blow.

Hmm...

No contest.

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1:43 AM, Blogger Colleen Shirazi said...

Well, they do say Western civilization is, well, declining. It's too bad. Anyone outside our culture watching some of this stuff would probably just be confused.

Weeellll...skinny jeans and leggings were popular in the 70's (the jeans) and 80's (the leggings). They do look good, as long as you have the right legs for them, but that's the same thing with miniskirts. There is always a current fashion that looks great on someone in late teens or early twenties, with what I can see now is a perfect figure (when I was that age, I never saw perfect as perfect). And there is always a current fashion for everyone else. So, if you can't do the miniskirt or leggings or what have you, there is always something else to wear.

The "skinny fashion"...is ephemeral. It's capturing something that not all women ever possess, and those that do possess it, do so for only a finite period in their lives. My own body changed after I had the kids and got old. I mean there's no reason not to maintain a good figure for your age, but it'll never be the same as it was when you were in your twenties or thirties. So I think it's a good thing, to always have a "skinny fashion." It's not good to expect everyone to stuff themselves into it, but for those who do not stuff, I think it can be beautiful.

Now, why we as a culture push the limit...why we border on socially approving of eating disorders, while, at the same time, we as a society get fatter and fatter...and we rush to socially approve of that too, even though being too fat is just as unhealthy as being too thin...I can't explain that.

 
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Disgusted.
Posted by Dain, 2:40 AM (Eastern)

I got the 90th anniversary issue of British Vogue today. $9.99. It is a waste of money. A rushed pictoral history, it looks like someone sat down and ate an archive and vomit all over the pages. WORST: the editorial "Magical History Tour". Combines two most nauseating trends at present: fashion looking back on itself (self-referential tailoring is getting out of hand) and, and... layering. With priceless antique clothing!!!!
(*&%$*@*&()#!!

I am telling you, layering is not a good look. Stay away from black leggings.

It is kind of a treasure hunt, though. I like that. But it is ugly, and really tasteless.

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Resort: Part 1
Posted by Dain, Saturday, November 25, 2006 1:11 AM (Eastern)

I'm craving a bit of an update—looking forward to spring (yes, already!). Would that I were going to some place peaceful and warm. But sometimes a little commodity fetishism (it must be admitted) is just the ticket out, albeit a virtual one. For that matter, these clothes are virtual.

The formal perfection of Grace Kelly.

The inspiration for this look.

How to dress around a beige (the color for spring) skirt. I generally work around a bottom as a "foundation" to building a wardrobe. It's the item you most consistently wear over a season. I try to choose something that, (1) is very, very flattering on my body, (2) stands up to everyday wear and tear, and finally (3) is neutral, almost plain, so it goes with absolutely everything.

Barneys New York Pleat Skirt with Pockets: Thus. Crisp shimmery pleated silk taupe. Khakis gone formal. Airy enough for warm weather, but tailored enough to stand up to the softest shirts.

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Thanksgiving...
Posted by Dain, Sunday, November 19, 2006 8:17 PM (Eastern)

It's vacation, and I'm gonna be working very hard, so I will not see y'all till the end of the week. (Save November's Beauty Scrapbook.) So I leave you with this to ponder, speaking of exquisite dresses. These two are from Alexander McQueen, I think FALL 2006. Happy Thanksgiving!

Alexander McQueen Embroidered Tulle Gown $8,280
How unbelievably and heartbreakingly beautiful is this? Gothic romanticism. The shape is classic, the shades demure (nude and black), and yet, only a woman of character and mystery could wear it, one who can carry a froth of silk and tulle and lace and still look powerful. And the proper accents? Who cares? Can you look at anything but this dress?

Alexander McQueen Embellished velvet dress $2,195

Such a different dress, but so equally mysterious! The black velvet is dark as ink, the fit is perfection, and the embellishments, the feathers gold-beaded, the gold silk lining, the subtle pouf of pleats in the back... ach, honestly, what is the use of doing a description? Look at it yourself.

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And that, by the way...
Posted by Dain, Wednesday, November 15, 2006 1:44 AM (Eastern)

Is the first and last time I will write "*dies*" on this blog. But it was the word that best suit at that moment.

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Trends! Honestly...
Posted by Dain, 12:13 AM (Eastern)

I hate layering. You know, leggings, complicated dress, tunics, tailored jackets, whatever, all on top of each other. I don't care if you do it in neutrals. It looks stupid. I hate to see it whenever I flip through glossies (Lucky in particular reeks with too much layering. What is happening to this magazine? It's going downhill. Whatever happened to the Consumer's Digest of fashion? Now it's, vanity fair.). It's too multidimensionally significant. Too "interesting", rather than attractive. Clothes should look good, first and foremost.

The trends I prefer:
1. Dresses that are interesting, not readily identifiable, and fit to perfection... that, I think, is a trend to yield clothes that will last you a lifetime. Because really, when will you ever hate a beautiful dress? Yes, they're more expensive than tops, but the amount of real wear you get out of them is far greater. Might as well snap some up while it's the fashion to design beautiful, well made, and interesting clothes.
2. Pristine, well-cut basics. This, I think, is an emerging trend. One that hasn't really shown its face yet. It's time. Yeah, $300 jeans are ridiculous, but these trends filter down from the top. GAP makes precision cut jeans, Express makes editor pants... and now tees and shirts are getting the treatment. What next? Sweaters are coming. A mania for precise, handcrafted artisanal sweaters.

Things I'm not sure about:
1. Organic jewelry? But then, my taste is to the baroque. I don't know that I want gold and jewels to look as if they grew on me. And yet, to look at, they are, very pretty.
2. Really, I don't like the shoe trends. Architectural? Please. There are two shoes I'm contemplating this season, it's just that boring to me:
The Steve Madden 'Carmila': So classic that it's eternally tasteful. They're not Manolos, but they are surprisingly close to well made for factory chaff.

Doc Martens: I revere Christian Louboutin, but the ubiquity repels me. Before, Louboutin was something like a fledgling Roger Vivier without feathers (no pun intended). Now? It's like Louis Vuitton: common but expensive, beautifully made but still! common. (Is this elitist of me? Or fair to demand of an artist? Cobblers, presumably, artists.) I don't know, perhaps it is too much to say at once. All I know is a part of me is a little sick of seeing that red heel. The antidote? These.


I do, sometimes, just love Louboutin, though:
All the sex appeal of killer heels, but with the refinement of a tuxedo. It's a kind of joke, but one that you don't quite get until you really think about it, because the shoe looks so good on your foot (imagine it peeking forth from a simple skirt and cardigan combo).


What am I craving? Rich, rich, colors: just a little "off" from true colors. Both Fall 2006 and Spring 2007 are playing off very neutral palettes, so I want, actually, the most intense color I can find. I suppose the makeup trends are bright enough? E.g. Instead of cobalt blue, you have this quasi-violet-toned ultramarine, in lush suede:
This is Brian Atwood, Spring 2007.


One Big Trend: An Analysis
Neutral, neutral colored accessories, in rich skins (or plastic, as the case may be), a parade of shoes, and bags. Wear with sharp, tailored clothing:
Can you imagine this Calvin Klein python bag slung on your arm? *dies*

My god, I could not stop salivating when I saw these. Beige: boring. Crocodile: always grosses me out slightly. But together, so... rich. Perfection. Sculptures by Alexander McQueen.

Normally, I would not advocate Chanel, because I find it so tasteless, but the Naked Bag is such a self-referential, self-aware take on tacky-expensive that I actually find it very clever. It makes fun of itself.

A huge tote is something that always appeals to me, maybe because I always carry around so many books. Marni makes this one in patent leather (still going strong), black leather accents, and resin handles.

Smokey snakeskin, in classic, universally flattering and versatile styles. Just right with the LBD (Little Black Dress) and berry lipstick. Salvatore Ferragamo and Tods.

VBH's white leather with brown accents, such a chic combination. It's pristine, but not cloudlike and formless. But reinvented in a very modern slouchy, egg shape.


But...
Imagine the one slung on your arm as you step out into the night. Imagine the other as you jet off to someplace glamorous and sunny (sounds so good right now, in this dreary Connecticut November). Some things, come what will, will always be true to a signature look. In spite of trends. Which I respect. What is it that the Manolo says? "Pucci always makes the smiles."

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2:02 AM, Blogger Colleen Shirazi said...

Hermmmmm...layers are like Uggs. I suppose. I never see Uggs around here, only read endless complaints about Uggs on the Net.

Uggs supposedly look like crap, they were at one point ubiquitous, everyone dissed them, yadda yadda...but from all reports, they're warm. They even keep your feet dry. This makes them interesting to me. Not here and now...my Doc Martens boots keep my feet warm and dry in our relatively mild climate...but the concept.

Now layers, you find in California. It's not a fashion. People have always worn layers here. You have to. The weather is crazy.

For example, this morning it was so cold I turned the heat on. (Okay this is California, you have to turn the heat on.) By afternoon, it was hot. Short sleeve hot. In the evening, it was back cold again.

Almost any time you wear clothes warm enough for the morning and evening, you have to have a creative way of shedding at least one layer of them in the afternoon. Whenever it looks hot outside, it can suddenly turn cold; you almost always have to have a wrap of some kind with you, and preferably some way of tying it so you don't have to carry it.

It was slightly worse in Washington because of the rain. It starts raining right out of the blue. So, add a waterproof layer to the fact that it's freezing there.

Layers for the sake of layers just strikes me as silly. If it's cold though, I always throw on another layer.

 
2:10 AM, Blogger Colleen Shirazi said...

Ohhhhh...I know exactly what you mean about "not readily identifiable."

It's been in the back of my mind for some time...how, more and more so, we are buying all of our clothing at exactly the same stores. The same brands, the same models even.

I think the trend will be toward smaller designers, boutiques, people making their own clothes or starting their own cottage industries...in the same way the trend is toward esoteric perfume houses. Ultimately, people will want something different.

 
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Top #2
Posted by Dain, Tuesday, November 14, 2006 5:49 PM (Eastern)

J. Crew Solid Washed Oxford Shirt $59.50. What could be more classic than a white buttondown? Simple, chic, infinitely variable, universally flattering. The platonic ideal of "basic". Plus, it is intentionally rumpled, so I won't have to worry about ironing. I personally really like the fit of J. Crew shirts. I have a very narrow waist, and find most buttondowns insufficiently slim-cut. The quality of the fabric and stitching, while it may not be Thomas Pink, is enough to stand up to everyday wash and wear and tear, but is still reasonably within budget.

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Bauble o' the month...
Posted by Dain, Monday, November 13, 2006 3:13 PM (Eastern)

I'm thinking of treating myself to one piece of jewelry per month. As my clothes, soon enough, will be very plain, I like the idea of throwing something extravagant and ornate into the mix.

Banana Republic Multi-Colored Pavé Ring $48

Banana Republic Simulated Pearl Brooch Bracelet $42

Anthropologie Miniature Earrings $98

I want all of them! But just one. It's funny that I chose a pair of earrings. I don't even have pierced ears! I'm really not one to wear jewelry. I thought it was about time to start.

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9:16 PM, Blogger Colleen Shirazi said...

Not to enable or anything, but making jewelry is a great hobby. :D You can make a surprising range of pieces using just softflex (which is beading wire, almost as flexible as thread) or jewelry wire.

The ring would be out of the question, but the other two pieces...not that hard to make.

You've got to get your ears pierced!!!!! I went to one of those "Piercing Pagoda" type kiosks at the mall when I was 11. Now I hear it's better to go to a real piercing place...which uses a needle...rather than the mall shops...which use a piercing gun. I've been happy with my gun-pierced lobes but fyi.

One thing you'll need to know is if you have a metal sensitivity. I can't wear 14KT gold or sterling silver earrings, much less the cheaper stuff. I can do 18KT gold but it's $. What I use for my own work is niobium.

 
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Found! Banana Republic Wool Shawl Collar Cardigan $108
Posted by Dain, Sunday, November 12, 2006 7:17 PM (Eastern)

This is perfect! Is it not pretty? It has personality. The knit goes horizontal instead of vertical on the body, the slightly belled sleeves, and the cardigan-cum-cape styling. At the same time, it's very subdued, so it won't compete with whatever I wear underneath it.

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12:36 PM, Blogger Colleen Shirazi said...

Nice... I like the grey one better though. I realize it's three times the price, but, I dunno. It's more youthful looking.

Well, there is utility in clothing, and there is anti-utility. Utility is something that "trickles up" because it starts with clothing that has a specific function...blue jeans, painters' pants, tee shirts, boots, sneakers, and so forth...the underlying function becomes the fashion.

Anti-utility would be something like skirts, high heels, long fingernails, white-collared shirts, stockings, and so forth...something that specifically keeps you from doing certain kinds of work...by wearing it, everyone knows you don't mop floors for a living.

In between I suppose there are items that don't fit either description but I tend to think first in terms of utility. Which I think is more of an American thing than a European thing. I'm not saying I wear only utilitarian clothes, it's more that I'm conscious of it.

 
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Updated thoughts and thoughtful updates
Posted by Dain, Wednesday, November 08, 2006 2:54 PM (Eastern)

I've been trying to get away from the mentality that I need more clothes than I functionally need. It is much harder than I thought.

First, it's all fine to speak of fashion as commodity fetishism, artistry in fashion, and fashion as a social expression. All of these things, our site is devoted to. This is not the suggestion that anyone ever wear anything unflattering simply to make a statement. I just don't see the need to buy everything that Lucky or Vogue suggests I buy. And, I've never really explored basics. I've never so much as owned a white t-shirt.

Still, it's hard. I'm used to very complicated clothes, one way or another. It's no coincidence that the first thing I chose was this henley from Urban Outfitters:

Hmm... so maybe my strategy might be to buy a handful of interesting tees? After about a day to two days, it starts to get dirty. So I should have at least eight or so. Trouble is, "interesting tees" is a category like "interesting flats", always open. I'm only going to buy ones that look just right, however. And they'll all be very different from each other.

I really haven't found a sweater/jacket/sweatshirt layer that is "just right" yet. It's hard to say without wearing any.

Adam + Eve $295. Grey is neutral, this must be supersoft, molds to the body good. I like how it's kind of grandpa-ish, but sleek. I have grey pants. Wish this were in... what color? White? Lilac? Something that brightens my face.

Hmm... this is very clean, sculptured, ladylike. It's basic, but clearly made with love. Hard to say, really, until you try it on, but I do know that high cinched waists always flatter me. I almost want to say it's too much, though?

It seems I'm not the only one who is craving a more basic palette. Just got a new issue of Vogue today and what do I see? A countdown of the most luxe basics (See by Chloé pants, shirts by Nili Lotan, Trovata, Brooks Brothers, Pink and Steven Alan, knits from Alexander Wang, Adam+Eve, and even J. Crew, tees from Neal Sperling and Splendid, and the T. Anthony tote. I kind of want them all. In addition, there are articles on Katayone Adeli (the pantsmaster is back!) and the Olsens' new line of hyperluxe tees, The Row.

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1:43 AM, Blogger Colleen Shirazi said...

You're still thinking of clothing as art, that's the thing. It's probably more of a strength than a weakness. Or...? It's just different.

I've always preferred function, myself. Even my concept of making jewelry is more functional than decorative. I know that is not how most people think...but a single piece of jewelry can completely change the flavor of an outfit. Having lots of jewelry is cheaper than having lots of clothes, as long as you make the jewelry. It's not exactly a status thing, it's more something people can't put their finger on, since the majority of my designs are unique.

I like that grey sweater better than the white one.

 
4:44 PM, Blogger Dain said...

I don't think I'd be satisfied with clothing NOT as an art, though. It's sort of like how you minimalize a stash, you know? Look for holy grails? I mean, if I'm going to wear these clothes every day, instead of all those sophisticated, tailored looks, there's gotta be an aesthetic reason behind it. For me, at least. Otherwise, what's the fun?

 
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Staying ahead of the pack...
Posted by Dain, Monday, November 06, 2006 7:07 PM (Eastern)

In high school, I used to call my style "boho chic", long before it became common parlance. I wore everything embellished/laced/embroidered/beaded in any combination of colors. I kept it fairly simple otherwise, though, I always wore these flashy tops with a pair of olive khakis. I lived and breathed the Anthropologie catalog. Nobody wore clothes like me. Nobody wanted to. Then, the boho thing became huge. HUGE. Suddenly, everyone looked like me.

So I went to... Banana Republic and J. Crew and Club Monaco. Found tailored things: beautiful buttondowns, crisp lightweight sweaters, pumps, skirts both a-line and pencil. I started, you know, dressing like a grownup. And now, the tailored, polished look is in. Consider: Balenciaga, Roland Mouret, YSL Rive Gauche.

So what am I going to do? Another direction?

I've been thinking. As women, how much of our time is spent worrying about what to wear, when to wear it, what to wear it with, and how often to wear it? How often do I flip through the pages of Lucky and think, "Yes, I really ought to try a cream blazer with a floral blouse."? I wonder how much more liberating it is to be a boy, uncaring whether he wears the same clothes day in, day out. Surely that frees up a lot of brain space, and a lot of wallet space.

This is my new project. Casual, functional, comfortable clothing. The stuff that other people wear. But I still want to be pretty. That's the condition.

Where to start? A pair of trousers. I usually only wear two pairs at a time, and one of them will be a pair of jeans, which I already have. Mine are dark blue low-rise flares (Blue Cult), which are probably the most versatile iteration. But I'm not one for jeans, in all honesty. I prefer a pair of pants, and I think mine are J. Crew (they make good chinos, they look good but at $58 you're not afraid to let them wear):



I bought a henley from Urban Outfitters the other day. It's a henley, so it's comfortable, casual, functional... warm. It's great for layering. But this one is in such a psychedelic Pucci-esque print(white/blue/pink/green/yellow) of hearts and stars that it's full of personality. I've always maintained that if the fit is right, it looks expensive, no matter how low key it is otherwise.



And what to wear over it? Maybe this hoodie? It matches everything (being white), it's pretty (white lights up my skin) and soft and warm. It's more luxe than a sweatshirt.



Let's see... that's a tee, a sweater, and pants. A pair of shoes... these are as functional as you can imagine, classic Doc Martens in brown. I could get those skull Chucks, though.




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1:40 AM, Blogger Colleen Shirazi said...

You won't regret getting Doc Martens. It's a stupendous brand. I have a pair of boots and a pair of sandals...they've lasted year after year. And they're great in cold or wet weather.

Nice top too. :)

 
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