The Lipstick Page Forums Beauty Blog: December 2005 Building a fragrance wardrobe (part 1) Posted by Dain, Wednesday, December 28, 2005 4:16 PM (Eastern) Is a neverending process. It's easy to be deluded by tantalizing descriptions and then to discover, to your chagrin, that it doesn't suit you after all. Furthermore, perhaps more than most products, perfumes are mysteriously prone to shifting loyalties—all of a sudden, for no reason at all, you might detest the scent that you loved only a month ago. The most crucial determination, then, when selecting one for your collection, is whether you love it or not, without outside reference. It may be helpful to think of a perfume as representing a 'mood' or an 'aspect of a woman's personality', but I think that way of approaching perfume is limiting. It is true that not every perfume is going to be appropriate, all the time, for every occassion, but I don't like the idea of perfume having the nature of a costume. If there is no 'summer scent' that you love, why should you be required to own one? I prefer to consider my bottles as I might men, some are right for certain purposes at certain times, others are mysteriously perfect always. Dissonance is OK, impropriety is OK, as long as it is sometimes very right. Indifference, however, is not OK. In any case, here are my current imaginings, subject to change, particularly since I do not yet own half of them. The order I am presenting them is not to show preference, but a sort of aesthetic and/or categorically associative order, which is perhaps the only way to think of them without becoming pigeonholed into 'scent families'. Serge Lutens Daim Blond: To me, this is a "skin" scent, not only in how closely and subtly it graces the skin, but also in its elusiveness. It is like something that can only be seen out of the corner of your eye—sniff too hard, and it disappears, like a mirage. It is difficult, too, to determine what exactly you are smelling. Daim Blond is a leather scent (the translation means "blonde suede"), but it is miles removed from the robust, animalic aggressiveness of Chanel Cuir de Russie or Robert Piguet Bandit. Daim Blond is a soft, delicate, graceful suede, and rather makes me think of how the French perfume industry got started, the French association between perfume-makers and glove-makers, maîtres parfumeurs et gantiers, established because the smell of cured leather offended the delicate noses of the French aristocracy (though given the sort of cheeses they eat, their predeliction for infrequent baths, and rampant smoking habits, "delicate" may be a debatable adjective here). Rare iris butter, apricot kernel, cardamom, clean white musk, heliotrope and hawthorn: notes chosen for their delicacy and softness and rarity. Daim Blond is musky but not soapy, leathery but not animalic, flowery but not floral, warm but not saccharine—it almost smells like nothing, or a suggestive hint of sunwarmed skin. Lancôme 2000 et Une Rose: I've actually never smelled this, but the idea of a a multi-faceted, multi-rose fragrance, offset by sweetness and amber and a little peppery kick, appeals to me. Carol loves this one, and she and I seem to have similar tastes in fragrances. I love the idea of something rose-based to layer over my Olay Quench Body Lotion, and there's just no note as unabashedly feminine or perfume-y, but I need a great of warmth in a perfume, which a rose, though many other things, never really is, unless it is contorted almost out of all recognition (e.g. Caron Parfum Sacré). I'm hoping this one suits, and may just have to buy it (contact.faubourg@lancome.com) with my vacation paycheck. Caron Parfum Sacré: And speaking of roses and perfumes that cling like a whisper over the skin, Caron's Parfum Sacré is the logical next step. Parfum Sacré perhaps shows how many faces the versatile rose can take. Unlike YSL Paris, which is next, Parfum Sacré avoids the living flower altogether, but rather presents an old-fashioned, ladylike rose, like a dried corsage, laced with incense and bolstered by the grandest white florals in perfumery: neroli and jasmine. It is difficult to explain how this perfume moves from a loud, brash, spicy aldehydic floral, into something so sweet and quiet, not like perfume at all but like the lingering fragrance of the most fabulous soap in the world, found in some dusty, nameless apothecary in a small town in Europe. Even if I did not love Parfum Sacré, I feel like I would want a bottle around anyway, just to smell how masterfully such complex notes have been blended together. It smells like chic, like a beautiful Lanvin suit or the queer and aloof pumps of Christian Louboutin. YSL Paris: Yves Saint Laurent's order for Paris was simple: "Make us the most gorgeous rose perfume ever." (source: The Emperor of Scent) Paris is not a scent I could wear at large, every day, but its sparkling vision of a sun-dappled, dew-drenched rose garden is positively show-stopping, like watching Elizabeth Taylor walk into a movie. The smell of splendor, of an intelligence that cannot be masculinized. It inspires extreme reactions: some people think it smells like old lady, and some people find it indescribably gorgeous. I think the latter... there's something very decadent and slightly aggressive about wearing such a determinedly rose-y perfume, especially if one is very young. Serge Lutens Tuébereuse Criminelle: And lastly (for today), and equally unabashed soliflore, Tubéreuse Criminelle. Oh, I have lusted after this one for months. It is not, however, available in the US. Tuberose is as purely floral as rose, and though perhaps not as versatile as the queen of flowers, is nevertheless a note of many different characters. Consider the synthetic virtue of Robert Piguet Fracas, or the metal and cream dissonance of Michael Kors, or the luscious and silky warmth of Caron Tubése, or even its light and carefree side in L'Artisan Parfumeur La Chasse Aux Papillons. Tubéreuse Criminelle is none of these. It smells malignantly of menthol and gasoline when it first opens, like the cold malice of a newly minted road, before settling into the most dreamy, truthful tuberose you can imagine, straight from the jungles of Mexico. Even as it shifts from overwhelming artifice to overwhelming nature, it never loses even a little of its aggressiveness. It's powerful and feminine and very, very sexy. YSL Paris has charm and elegance and refinement, but Tubéreuse Criminelle is a bitch. Images courtesy of http://perso.wanadoo.fr/imagesdeparfums/. 0 Comment(s)    Email this post Becca Wild Orchid Creme Blush Posted by Dain, Monday, December 26, 2005 2:50 PM (Eastern) I would like to do a brief review of this product, because I think it a rather momentous upgrade. I've been faithful to one blush, NARS Desire, for a very, very long time. Longer than most people keep their computers, anyway. Now, there is nothing wrong with Desire, it is still consummate perfection for my coloring (as I've said before, match your blush to yourself, not to your other makeup or to your clothing), but Wild Orchid, in some ways, is even better. It's not as bright, and it's got a cool lilacky hue to it, but it's the same sort of bright, uncompromising pink that looks very good with my pale, yellow skin and dark hair. It comes in a teeny mirrored compact (not much use), and you may think, $25 for a cream blush? Especially one so wee and unassuming? Fret not, this stuff takes a very small dab indeed. It's easy to blend (very important with cream blushes), even on my dry skin, and it looks much more natural and subtle than Desire, because powder blushes do sit on top of the skin, instead of melting into like nobody's business. I don't know how long it might last for those whose skins have oilier dispositions, but I have no problems at all with it lasting—indeed, it seems that Wild Orchid lasts longer than Desire. I'm not really "wowed" by this product, because it is a very similar effect to that of a product I've long loved, but this is a brilliant upgrade. 0 Comment(s)    Email this post I dream of... (three things I dream of that I do not think would ever happen) Posted by Dain, Sunday, December 25, 2005 2:35 PM (Eastern) the perfect quad: I am craving a palette of the perfect shades for every day. I will always maintain certain NARS duos in my heart, but they are not for every day, more like little works of art to treasure. So, what would this "perfect quad" look like? First, I'd need a deep liner shade, a color much like Trish Deep Aubergine or even better, the dark shade in Dior's Brun Casual. The color is a bit like coffee, the color of a strong, dark roast, with a dollop of jellied cherries (as the Russians do it) to give it a subtly plummy tint. Second, a color that has not yet really taken shape in my mind, a soft, suedey, smoky color, a complex mixture of mauve and lavender and violet and rose in a grey/taupe base, soft shimmer, neither too warm (gold) nor too cool (silver). I have in my mind's eye: Dior Mauve Chic (the center shade, if it were warmer), or even better NARS Ashes to Ashes mixed with Cairo. Third, a sheer shimmer, a pink-gold-silver-champagne highlight, with very subtle and sheer sparkle. The color I have in mind is actually a lipgloss, Guerlain Terre des Sables. And fourth, I want a sweet and simple lilac, pure, ethereal, something that goes on a little kickier than grey. The inspiration is Clé de Peau palette III. Yeah, I know, keep dreaming. But in my dreams, they are together, in a beautiful but practical compact with a mirror big enough to see in, and the quality is supreme, like Dior's. Lancôme 2000 et Une Rose: I've been using Olay Quench Body Lotion, because I like the smell and the slight iridescence it lends, and I feel like 2000 et Une Rose would layer so magnificently over it. I've never even smelled it, and it's discontinued, but who cares? I covet. You can buy it directly from the Lancôme boutique, if you're curious, too. NARS Gothika Lip Gloss, as a MAC Lustre: A gorgeous, burnished rose shade, serious but sweet, neutral but special, it's just not too bright and not too brown and not too pink. Unfortunately, the gloss formula is a little difficult to maneuveur, and it doesn't much last. So if MAC ever made a shade like it, in their brilliant Lustre formula, I would buy it for life. (For those who are curious, it rather reminds me of Wet 'n' Wild's #666 Lipliner.) 0 Comment(s)    Email this post Current obsessions (12.24.05) Posted by Dain, 3:42 AM (Eastern) Chanel Lilac Sky nailpolish: For the Spring 2006 collection (whatever it's called, it doesn't really matter), this is such a sweet and brilliant shade for the dead of winter, dreaming of spring. It looks good 'gainst pasty skin, and doesn't wash it out, and it's got all the charm of pink (because it's a pinky sort of lilac with shimmer) without the banality. L'Oréal Féria deep conditioner: It's been said before, this is the best conditioner on the planet, bar none. I'm a little late in praising it, but it truly is genius. It bores me, because it's rather utilitarian (I'm a thinking gal, when it comes to my cosmetics), but it's just unbeatable regardless of my whims. Dr. Hauschka Rose Day Cream: What do you do about dry skin? If you don't have it, you don't understand... the taut, uncomfortable irritability, the richness of unctuous creams that must be lived with and allowed to absorb over what seems an eternity, because the lighter creams do nothing, the general feeling of dullness. Dry skin isn't a visible, obvious problem the way acne is, but because it's harder to see, it's harder even to think about treating it. Well, nevermind all that, because Dr. Hauschka is there to save our skin (hmm... "SOS"). Guerlain L'Heure Bleue: I wouldn't have honestly thought I could wear this. but I can, and I like it. It's a little musty, and Guerlains are hopelessly, if beautifully archaic. It would be like wearing one of those Edwardian Rochas gowns—yes, it's gorgeous, but whatever are you supposed to do in it? With its melancholy, slightly faded bouquet of evening flowers (carnation, neroli, violet, rose, iris, vanilla, anise), it's a scent that's utterly feminine, and utterly mysterious. Words will destroy it, so I'll leave it at this: L'Heure Bleue is deeply evocative, but of what, I do not know. Dior Brun Casual 5-Coleur Eyeshadow: Really, this is the most boring of browns: a pale peachy-cream color dusted with just a sliver of white-gold, a satiny banana-y nude, a rich silver, a dusty mauve-grey, and a slightly ruddy dark brown. It's soft and smoky, however, without seeming like you're trying to wear eyeshadow. And of course, the superb Dior quality surpasses anything else you've ever experienced. Olay Quench Body Lotion: This isn't really better than my beloved Palmer's Cocoa Butter, but it is excellent, and it smells really good. It gives a slight iridescence and glow to the skin that's very pleasing, and it's good to slather it on... somehow, it makes you feel pampered and gorgeous. 0 Comment(s)    Email this post This and that... Posted by Colleen Shirazi, Wednesday, December 21, 2005 3:23 PM (Eastern) Did I ever mention that The Lipstick Page beauty forum was mentioned in the New York Times? bugmenot.com ONLINE SHOPPER; In Search of the One True Lipstick by Michelle Slatalla It's a nice little article...even though I personally do not advocate buying a custom lipstick. I just don't. I've had many a product become discontinued on me; most women who wear makeup know the feeling. For example, the pinnacle of blush--Lancome's Rose Charmant--bit the dust not that long ago. I was heartbroken momentarily--it can't be replaced--but so much of makeup is repetition. The same shades given new lives with new shade names. There is always a pink-rose-peach-brown configuration of blush on the market albeit never quite as sublime as Rose Charmant. Of course as I write this, I'm really hoping that MAC will never discontinue their "Sophisto" lipstick. I would be lost without it. 0 Comment(s)    Email this post Ugh Posted by Colleen Shirazi, Tuesday, December 20, 2005 11:50 PM (Eastern) I am really disgusted. How about I share it with you... The store I normally get my sunscreen at...it's in Berkeley so it's a drive...gave my sunscreen, All Terrain TerraSport--the one sunscreen you can find in the U.S. that has Z-Cote (micronized zinc oxide) as its main active ingredient--the axe. Why????? I went all the way out there and all I saw...and you will have to keep in mind that this is an American sentiment...were tons and tons and bazillions and gazillions of expensive skincare products. But not one single Z-Cote sunscreen. I say this is an American sentiment because it's exactly what you face if you have adult acne here. There is no shortage of expensive treatments, but there is very little preventive medicine. There's one more place I can try to find it...if I'd known it would be this difficult to find, I would have ordered it online. Unbelievable. 0 Comment(s)    Email this post To Anastasia, who emailed me... Posted by Dain, Saturday, December 17, 2005 3:01 PM (Eastern) I've gotten an error report every time I've tried to reply to you, so I'll post my reply here. I hope you get it! Hi Anastasia! I'd be happy to help. I'm glad you enjoy the blog. The Becca creme blush is really great! It's not as "soft" as Paula Dorf's cream blushes, but they're pigmented and a little goes a long way, which is nice because you get a small pot for a rather high price ($25 here in the US). There's even a tiny, albeit useless, mirror. It really does look supernatural on the skin. I don't know how long it lasts on oilier skins, but it lasts perfectly fine on my dry skin. Honestly, I like both Wild Orchid and Amaryllis. Both work very well, because I can wear both reds and pinks well (and I'm sure you do too). I chose Wild Orchid for two reasons, one, yes, it's closer to the shade I usually wear, which is NARS Desire (it's closest, however, to NARS Mata Hari, if you've ever seen it), and two, Amaryllis was sold out when I went to Sephora. Wild Orchid is the same sort of bright pink as Desire, but softer and cooler. Amaryllis is a sort of ruddy flush, like redcurrant or a very complex mixture of raisin and mauve (hard to describe). Think of a ruddy cinnamon-y color. Honestly, both work fantastically, but Wild Orchid is the safest bet if you're looking for something like Desire. Other blushes I like: MAC Angel (I like this all over, like Benefit Dandelion, to perk up my skin), Paula Dorf Candy Apple (a similar color to Amaryllis, but redder, like a red rose), a bunch of Bobbi Brown's pinks are nice, basic colors but every subtle iteration and great quality... I also like Delux Fuschia Flush Stick (gorgeous on the skin, but so expensive!), and Tarte's Blushing Bride (very subtle), and Stila's Rose Convertible Color, and Origins little squeeze tube blush during the summer... I think it's called Pinch Your Cheeks or something like that. That's pretty much it. As it is, I only own Desire, Angel, and Wild Orchid, largely because I feel like the blushes I've mentioned above are kind of repetitive. At some point, I hope to get it really honed down to that which I love, without any redundancy, but I'm fairly good about waiting to use up things before I buy them (except in the case of eyeshadows, oy). I try to match my blush to my skin tone and coloring, rather than the other makeup I'm wearing, so that it always looks good, and I don't need to worry about it. I've got my eye on Neutrogena Sweet Raisin, though, though that is a very different color from what I'm used to, a dusty warm mauve. I hope that helps! Dain 0 Comment(s)    Email this post Honestly, I don't know what it is... Posted by Dain, Wednesday, December 14, 2005 12:24 PM (Eastern) But the magazine Lucky and I, are telepathically linked or something. This month's issue, I was flipping through, and I saw that they were pushing shimmery lilac polish for 2006. Look at what I blogged on December 6: Monique has the new Chanel polishes for the spring season, and I'm totally in love with a shade called Lilac Sky. Promptly going on my wishlist. : ) Now, I'll grant you, they mentioned an Estée Lauder nailpolish, but that's pretty cool, yeah? Other things we're both feeling: Clé de Peau palette III, Becca creme blush, overdoing it with shampoo and moisturizers, Dior Mauve Chic, smoky pewter/violet/taupe shimmer, and any number of other things (about a dozen, but since it's spread out over a couple of years, I can't quite recall). It's uncanny. It's like I can anticipate the trends... They have TERRIBLE taste in fragrances, though. I'll be back full swing once finals are up! 0 Comment(s)    Email this post Rants, raves, and musings on all things cosmetic. Profile | Current Blog Site Feed (Atom) Articles This Month ·· Building a fragrance wardrobe (part 1) ·· Becca Wild Orchid Creme Blush ·· I dream of... (three things I dream of that I do not think would ever happen) ·· Current obsessions (12.24.05) ·· This and that... ·· Ugh ·· To Anastasia, who emailed me... ·· Honestly, I don't know what it is... Archives TheBroadroom.Net's Beauty Blog (archive) April 2005 May 2005 June 2005 July 2005 August 2005 September 2005 October 2005 November 2005 December 2005 January 2006 February 2006 March 2006 April 2006 May 2006 June 2006 July 2006 August 2006 September 2006 Links Colleen's Adult Acne Blog Fashiontribes Daily